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My Loyale is getting on my nerves!!!


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..I Love my Loyale I Love my Loyale...I am trying to still Love my Loyale...grrrrrrrrr....car starts fine this morning....go to leave work and dead! dead dead dead!! Nothing no clicks no whines..nothing....OK so I wiggle my ignition switch...get alittle buzz here and there but still no start. OK I am thinking dead battery..but how??? Its only about a year old...I bought it when I had the 82 GLF so I didnt have to switch all the time. So lucky enough one of my friends at work was still there and gave me a jump....Bucky starts right up....charging at above 12volts like normal....hummm this is strange..OK maybe its just a flook thing. Get home..turn off the car (like an idiot..before closing the windows..der!!)..try and restart it...dead!! this time it wont stop giving me this horrible "I am going to die" whine...jump out and disconnect the battery...Anyway..take the battery to where I bought it..tests good...great...Alt?? Starter??? OK stupid...lets try something simple.... Why not just try and replace the terminals....ding ding ding..we have a winner!!!!!...so even though it was somethign stpid...I am getting tired of this.... I need to win the lottery so I can get a newer Subaru...this Loyale is driving me nuts!!!!! I love my Loyale ........sometimes!

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Try a little battery terminal grease and call me in the morning.

 

Secure the terminal on tight and you'll be good to go another 100k or so....:burnout:

 

 

LMAO...I am just trying to get the last 4000 miles out of it so that if it dies it at least made it to 200,000.

 

I feel like doing anything to this car anymore is like:horse:

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Happened to me... on BOTH Brats... why is that they are the cheapest, but most taken-for-granted part?

noticed it as well - the + side terminal is the one that usually is the culperit too... - GM sideposts are HORRIBLE for corrosion issues too.... replaced a LOT of those for friends..

 

good luck!!!

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sorry for making you take out that battery on sunday, it disturbed the terminals...

 

Rory it isnt your fault...anyway...I appreciate you guys coming out and playing with my bike.. BTW..sent the money out for the CDI ign box yesterday.:banana: Hope that does it. One of these days if I ever have anything else to drive I will drop off my Loyale at your place and let you do whatever you want...just need something else to run so you can take your time..I always feel like I rush you. But still think you rock!:headbang:

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well...terminals isnt the problem...car wouldnt start tis morning either....too me 15 minutes of playing to get it going...now thinking its the ground to body connection...who knows...Like I said ...its like:horse: .....Anyone want a 92 Loyale wagon 5 spd...cheap?????

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my hatch did the same exact thing. after about 15 tries it would finally get a connection, and start like nothing happened.

 

mine turned out to be the electrical ignition switch. replaced that now it starts every time.....

 

I am about to give up on this thing..but can't afford another car so I have absolutely no choice but to fix it...But my rockin friend Rory ( him and his wife are the bestest) might be taking it friday or over the weekend and looking into it...and fixing some rust..and looking into my seriously messed up front end.

 

Still...anyone want a cheap Loyale?????:banghead::horse::banghead::horse::banghead::horse:

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Hopefully you at least have a test light to see where voltage is getting to. Check the fusible links for loose connections. Also make sure that there is no problem with the main connectors near the battery. The connector for the ignition switch is another check point. Some logical electrical troubleshooting should locate the trouble pretty fast.

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Don't get discouraged. Remember how old the car is and know that certain things are easily fixable. Bucky's symptoms are that the engine doesn't turn over: this could be a weak battery (or alternator not charging the battery fully), poor connection(s) at the battery terminals, a bad ground connection, a faulty ignition switch ($5 at my local Pull a Part yard and 30 minutes to install), and lastly, a faulty starter motor (or loose connection at the starter motor). None of these require a rocket scientist to diagnose nor a lot of money. Lean on your local support group to give you a hand if you need it....I'm sure they'd be glad to do it for a 6 pack or maybe a weekend BBQ. The most expensive item on the list would be the starter motor and it would be the last thing I checked. Good luck with it and don't give up; you don't impress me as the type that would.

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Don't get discouraged. Remember how old the car is and know that certain things are easily fixable. Bucky's symptoms are that the engine doesn't turn over: this could be a weak battery (or alternator not charging the battery fully), poor connection(s) at the battery terminals, a bad ground connection, a faulty ignition switch ($5 at my local Pull a Part yard and 30 minutes to install), and lastly, a faulty starter motor (or loose connection at the starter motor). None of these require a rocket scientist to diagnose nor a lot of money. Lean on your local support group to give you a hand if you need it....I'm sure they'd be glad to do it for a 6 pack or maybe a weekend BBQ. The most expensive item on the list would be the starter motor and it would be the last thing I checked. Good luck with it and don't give up; you don't impress me as the type that would.

 

Thanks Ed but there is alot more going on with my wagon besides its new electrical issues...and its like this...turn the key ..have power..turn it to start possition..click dead nothing no juice anywhere. Its a bad connection somewhere..not a big deal...but when you toss in the fact that the car needs rotors,brakes,still needs a new throw out bearing, exhaust work,rear brake or hub work on the one side,front end shakes like crazy..the AC over heats the car,only 2 settings on the switches work,no radio (due to previous electrical gremlin)...and the rust ..Its just time to let it go.

As for my local network...most have seemed to abandoned me since I moved...no longer super easy to get too. Rory is about it honestly. But its ok.. I will deal with it..as my fiance says all the time...I'll figure it out.

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. I will deal with it..as my fiance says all the time...I'll figure it out.
Your fiance is right, you'll figure it out. You didn't mention the other problems earlier, and you might be correct in letting it go. As to the electrical problem, the symptoms sound suspiciously like the ignition switch which is easily replaced along with the problem connector that has been known to cause similar symptoms. Taking care of that would go a long way toward allowing you to use the car until you find a suitable alternative. Good luck and hang in there.
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It is a good price for the switch. The most probable cause is the switch; I wonder if the replacement comes with the 6" cable and connector to plug into the harness. The connector can also be the root of the intermittant problem and should also be replaced. It's usually pretty easy to spot a bad connector, the plastic around the bad connection gets hot and turns brown or black. A quick visual inspection could confirm that.

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I have only had my soob for about 2,000 miles. I was given the car after it had sat for a year after a timing belt broke. The work that I did to get it running was fairly extensive and took me the better part of a week to complete but I can say without a doubt that my 88 loyale efi wagon is the easiest car to work on that I have ever owned. The cost of ownership of this car is extremely low, very, very low. It cost me 1,100 dollars to have the rear main seal replaced on the audi I used to have , and for that much I will be able to have a subie thats almost like new!! Your loyale is a vastly dynamic vehicle and could last you many more miles. Mine has 222,000!! And remember it sat for a year before I got a hold of it. These cars are WELL made. From the materials the parts are made of right on up the ladder to how they are assembled and laid out in the car. After a year of sitting all the dash board light still worked the power windows still worked and the power door locks still worked along with all the interior lights. I think that your wagon still has a LITTLE life left in it. Relax and use your brain to troubleshoot the problem.

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I have only had my soob for about 2,000 miles. I was given the car after it had sat for a year after a timing belt broke. The work that I did to get it running was fairly extensive and took me the better part of a week to complete but I can say without a doubt that my 88 loyale efi wagon is the easiest car to work on that I have ever owned. The cost of ownership of this car is extremely low, very, very low. It cost me 1,100 dollars to have the rear main seal replaced on the audi I used to have , and for that much I will be able to have a subie thats almost like new!! Your loyale is a vastly dynamic vehicle and could last you many more miles. Mine has 222,000!! And remember it sat for a year before I got a hold of it. These cars are WELL made. From the materials the parts are made of right on up the ladder to how they are assembled and laid out in the car. After a year of sitting all the dash board light still worked the power windows still worked and the power door locks still worked along with all the interior lights. I think that your wagon still has a LITTLE life left in it. Relax and use your brain to troubleshoot the problem.

 

 

I bought my Loyale 3 years ago for $600...yes it has been pretty much trouble free except for the past year..I have done new timing belts,clutch,new seals and gaskets,rebuilt the oil pump and who can remember what else...here is the deal..I dont have the money that 90% of the people on this board have to fix the car.The history of this wagon is...it was first a fleet car...then a personal car then it was used as the loaner car for a dealership..then another dealership got it and used it for the same thing..loaner...then I bought it.

Now for the other thing...my fiance is a car idiot (admittingly) he doesnt have a clue..his truck breaks it goes to the dealer...I never admit to knowing everything..nor will I ever ..but I am just sick of doing it myself while others stand around and watch..I want to be able to just drop it off and say fix it and send me the bill..

 

ok enough rant

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Ok, lets start to work here. If you don't have something to test for voltage with then you need to at least purchase a test light probe. This takes the guess work out of trouble shooting. You can get one of these for under $10 dollars at a parts store.

 

The first place you what to check for trouble is the fusible links. Make sure they all have a good connection. The next place you need to check for trouble is the ignition switch connector. The trouble is most likely in these two areas.

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Sorry. I was not aware that you had such an up hill battle. If you were not on the other side of the country I would offer some help. Tell you what. If you are really straped for cash and need a voltage tester and WILL USE ONE I will mail you my used but good radio shack digital pocket multimeter. I think that they are 14-20 bucks new. I need something a little higher end for the projects I am getting into now. THe only thing wrong with it is the "lid" has broken off other than that it's good to go!!!!!

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Ok, lets start to work here. If you don't have something to test for voltage with then you need to at least purchase a test light probe. This takes the guess work out of trouble shooting. You can get one of these for under $10 dollars at a parts store.

 

The first place you what to check for trouble is the fusible links. Make sure they all have a good connection. The next place you need to check for trouble is the ignition switch connector. The trouble is most likely in these two areas.

 

I think we have it narrowed down to ignition switch ...grounds tested good (under the hood) fueables tested fine..I still put a new terminal onn the ground to battery cable and rechecked connection at the started.. I may just see if my mechanic friend can just by-pass the whole ignition switch and hook it up to a toggle switch:grin: Heck I leave my keys in it all the time anyway so why not make it easier to steal :lol: Y'all know there is a high demand for 196,000 mile FWD Loyales. I may be looking into another GLF right now..If something like that goes through I will be fine cause I wont lose work over car problems

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