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Was wondering if someone could help troubleshoot. Was driving the GL-10 yesterday and the stereo suddenly began to quit out and soon after the car. After that the thing was dead with no turn over until I jump started the car. It ran but then slowly died again. It had run fine the morning of but was out in the heat the whole day until I went to drive it home after work :mad: . SubaruJunkie and I both think that its perhapes the alternator as everything else was in fine spirits when the car ran. Any suggestions? Also what would be the best bang for buck Alt out there for a quick fix? :-\

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Take your alt to an auto parts store to have tested. Most places can do it for free.

 

I'm a fan of NAPA alternators. They seem to be the best built. You can get 'em for about $75. Checker/Schuks/Kragen or whatever sells an autolite brand for about $55.

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clean battery connections and check all elec. connections related to the battery and charging system. Don't forget the grounds.

 

Start/jump the car, remove jumpers and check voltage at the battery. Should be around 13.5 or so. 12 or less means no charge. Check voltage at back of alt. when running. Battery voltage only = dead alt. assuming belt(s) are tight.

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I have checked most of the wires leading from the battery and have checked the grounds to the best of my knowledge. I dont have anything to test if there is a current so I'll see what I can do over at Kragen, there close to where I live so I can do it today I think :o

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Sounds like an alt to me. These things fail. My RX went through 2 of them before i went and bought a new one. Replaced the 1st dead alt with one from a parts car I had. That died about 4 months later and I went to Kragen. Think i paid $80 or maybe close to $100 for a new one. No problems since.

 

They're easy to replace.

 

-Brian

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Dying or dead alternators usually give you the Christmas tree (brake lights and CEL go on for no apparent reason). If you don't have these though, you do describe problems associated with a dying/dead alternator. I wouldn't keep driving it like that though. You'll wear out your battery.

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yeah I am letting it rest while I go pick up an alternator so no worries about driving it. It was giving me lights at the dash but havnt checked to see if the christmas tree effect is all the way around. Ill update with more news as they come

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Dying or dead alternators usually give you the Christmas tree (brake lights and CEL go on for no apparent reason). If you don't have these though, you do describe problems associated with a dying/dead alternator. I wouldn't keep driving it like that though. You'll wear out your battery.

 

Only if the rectifier diodes are bad. If the regulator goes over or under voltage, you'll just have higher or lower alt output. If the brushes go, it will just die and not charge at all. Totally depends on HOW the alt fails internally as to if you get the christmas tree effect. In order to see it, you have to be putting out AC current.

 

GD

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I'd be a little careful about driving it....

 

When Mad Max's alternator went away,

 

it was putting out 18+ volts:eek:

 

Get it tested!

Glenn

82 SubaruHummer

84 GL Mad Max

01 Forester

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I'd be a little careful about driving it....

 

When Mad Max's alternator went away,

 

it was putting out 18+ volts:eek:

 

Get it tested!

Glenn

82 SubaruHummer

84 GL Mad Max

01 Forester

 

If it goes overvoltage, any lights you use will be really REALLY bright and the air cond/heater fan will blow you away. It will also boil acid out of the battery. Ask me how I know:mad:

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Only if the rectifier diodes are bad. If the regulator goes over or under voltage, you'll just have higher or lower alt output. If the brushes go, it will just die and not charge at all. Totally depends on HOW the alt fails internally as to if you get the christmas tree effect. In order to see it, you have to be putting out AC current.

 

GD

 

It only takes one bad diode to do that. One of mine failed that way and I measured DC and AC voltage and yes, the indicator light were not happy. Suck part is, individual diodes are non-replaceable. Must replace whole set.

 

Side note: Some 80's Nissans used the same alt. as 80's Subarus. If JY shopping, check out hardbody trucks and 240's.

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not sure why no one has posted this yet (since most of us are poor,but skilled)

 

charge/jump the battery get the car startted and pull one of the battery cables off if it dies right away then its the alt

 

might as well got pick up a el-cheap-o multi meter and start probing unless you already tested the alt and found it to be bad

 

also thier are 3 fues able links next to the battery (alway wondered why i got yellow lights till it diod pack dies and pumps 18+ Voilts (ran it for a week like that NO HY-WAY action please) :headbang: then i found them)

 

hope i was of help

 

ryry

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if indeed it is the alt you could get a 80 amp alt for probally like 50 bucks or something new.it wont be subaru instead it will a GM alt,found on just about every 80's gm.you just need to file 1/16" from the soft aluminum mounting tabs...

 

plus if you get stranded somewhere just grab a gm alt from any parts store at any time,try that with hitachi...

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