nimrod Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 Hey, I have a new used '87 GL FWD 5sp wagon I bought used a year or so ago, and about six months and 1500 miles ago (I don't drive it much) I changed oil and used Mobil1 as I had very good luck with synthetic in my old Toyota. Recently, I've been getting lifter noise but only after the car gets good and warm. It goes away after it cools down. I'm guessing that it's a leaky oil pump o-ring...think the oil could have caused that? I changed back to dino (GTX) and poured in a pint of MMO for good measure. I bought the pump O-rings, but I'm not man enough to get the friggin' crank pulley bolt off. Any thoughts? ... besides that I'm lame, I know that already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 Synthetic and the old engines usually means some sort of leaking or issue of that nature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85Sub4WD Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 Synthetic oils can cause leaking if the engine was not run with them originally - if you change the mickey mouse gasket, and the oil pump shaft gasket, you should be fine - if its consistantly making noise, regardless of oil, they need to be replaced what weight are you using?? - I found that Mobil 1 15w-50 gives me good overall performance - without excessive leaks (less than a quart every 3k miles) - I replaced my oil pump gaskets about 40k ago too.... I'd expect 10w-30 would be a bit light... depending on your area... I havent had much issue with lifter noise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod Posted August 19, 2006 Author Share Posted August 19, 2006 The Mobil1 was 10W-30, I just refilled with 20W-50 GTX, so we'll see how that goes. It was quiet on the ten minute drive to work today. So...how the heck do you hold the flywheel to remove that crank pulley bolt anyway? That's the point where I gave up on the oil pump o-ring job. I guess there's a special tool for it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hodaka Rider Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 Keep in mind that Synthetic oil does not cause leaks, it finds leaks. The synth will usually help clean nasty deposits out of the engine, but during the process it might clean out some deposits that were plugging a leak you didn't know was there. This just means that you have found the leak sooner than you would have if you had not switched to synth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubastreet Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 I guess there's a special tool for it.... an air wrench, or an impact driver if there's enough access usually gets one of them free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod Posted August 19, 2006 Author Share Posted August 19, 2006 an air wrench, or an impact driver if there's enough access usually gets one of them free. Oh, so you don't necessarily have to hold the flywheel if you have an air wrench, which is how "real" mechanics do it? Holding the flywheel with a screwdriver through the starter motor hole (Haynes Manual) is a joke, impossible I think. I'd be happy to pay a mechanic to replace my oil pump o-rings, but haven't found one I trust in my town... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 Oh, so you don't necessarily have to hold the flywheel if you have an air wrench, which is how "real" mechanics do it? Holding the flywheel with a screwdriver through the starter motor hole (Haynes Manual) is a joke, impossible I think. I'd be happy to pay a mechanic to replace my oil pump o-rings, but haven't found one I trust in my town... Think a little harder. There IS a specialty tool that is used by some mechanics since the flywheel will spin no matter what. Yes, you can use a high impact gun but what about torquing them back down? I use a Craftsman Torx driver through a hole on the flywheel and have it rest on a side of the bellhousing. I've done it like that for awhile and I'm a mechanic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod Posted August 20, 2006 Author Share Posted August 20, 2006 Think a little harder. There IS a specialty tool that is used by some mechanics since the flywheel will spin no matter what. Yes, you can use a high impact gun but what about torquing them back down? I use a Craftsman Torx driver through a hole on the flywheel and have it rest on a side of the bellhousing. I've done it like that for awhile and I'm a mechanic. Thanks, Caboobaroo, that's the kind of tip I can use. I saw a bunch of little holes in the flywheel and thought maybe I could use one of those, just don't know how tight that bolt is. Incidentally, after changing to 20W-50 GTX: no lifter noise so far.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 Thread some 1/4" nylon rope into cylinder #1 with it at BDC. A dozen feet of rope in the cylinder will stop the engine from rotating safely and allow you to remove the pully with a breaker bar. Sticking things in the flywheel is crappy if they break, or fall into the bell-housing. And isn't possible with an auto. Incidentally, you need a BIG impact to remove the 22mm pulley bolt. My 1/2" impact can't do it. And besides that mess, you still need access to it in order to use the impact. I'm not usually in the mood to remove the radiator, grill, and AC evap core if equipped. To heck with that mess. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subyrally Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 not the safest, but it works take a breaker bar, get it on the bolt and turn the crank until it rests on the drivers side frame rail. then quickly crank the engine. i used to work for a subaru garage and was told that they have done that trick for many years, just dont get near the breaker bar if you try that if it slips, it isnt pretty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 If its a manual, just put the car into 5th, set the parking break, and turn it. There's gonna be some initial slack, but it should stop and allow you break it loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.