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Outback struts on a Legacy? YES!!! Thanks.


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Alright.. well here I am admitting defeat. I can't get the rear struts in.. and haven't got to try the fronts. I took the old one out no problem.. switch the spring no problem.. got the OB strut back in.. it was kinda.. tough.. but now I can't re-assemble the stuff I had to take off to get the strut in.. if I put a jack under and compress the strut enough to where everything should line up the strut pushes the hub away from the "arms" or w/e they are called that the 8" bolt holds everything together. wont line up. Do I need more than just the Strut to do this? Does anyone on here know what they are talking about? (yes, they do.) This was supposed to be a straightforward swap..

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In the rear, you're gonna need to swap the strut cap, the bit with the three studs. In the front its direct.

 

You may have to bash out the inner fender behind the strut a bit to make it work, but it should get in there.

 

to swap the strut cap, you're gonna need a spring compressor, if you don't have one then....:dead:

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You could try putting the long bolt back in before the strut. Ive never had to touch that big bolt before. Loosen something else and on the two lower bolts get one in and then sit on the floor and take your feet and push the hub into the side of the strut and have a friend throw the bolt thru when it lines up.

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I just had to use a little pry bar between the bottom of the strut and the lower arm to get the holes to all line up so I could slip the bolts in. The lower mounts should be Subie standard from pretty much 90-current. If you're using your original tophats and springs and just swaping struts it should fit just fine. In the rear the top hat is directional, if it is not aligned right (mine had an arrow indicating the outside of the car) they will be nearly impossible to get back together, I learned that the hard way. Hope this isn't too late to be useful.

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Ohh thanks everybody!! Note the part about me being delerious from a brown recluse bite... I hadn't undone the sway bars... i read andyjos (i think) write-up about it.. and found out. Smooth sailing now, all 4 corners are now OB'd. Anyway.. So do I need to order new endlinks? new sway bars? just leave the sway bars disconnected? Cram it on there with the car on the ground? Thanks so much everybody. sorry for being a :banghead:

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Ok ok i did a swap myself

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=62911

 

all u have to do to get the strut to line up with the hub is to have someone push the hub down with their feet while you are down there you are trying to align the strut and put the bolt in. Fairly easy when there is 2 people working on it, i did my swap in 3 hrs tops, i think it was less than that but on well, make sure you mark the bolts up top before removing the old strut (front) so when u put the OB struts in, you can try to line up the bolts to the original location and therefore not needing an alignment.

 

also in the front be carefull with the CV axle, DO NOT pull on it too hard or it will pop out of the diferential, it happened to me. large Pry bars are a very helpfull tool on this swap and PB blaster too.

 

good luck and let us know how it goes

 

Cheers

 

Neo

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Bump? I'm delerious from a brown recluse bite and I only have 11 hours to finish this car... am I going to be able to get these struts in or WTF? PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!

 

Be carefu with that spider bite, go get a major broad spectrum antibiotic NOW, and stay on it for the full course.

 

I got bit and didn't know it until i developed a black rimmed hole in my arm the size of a pencil eraser. When from a 'pimple' to meteor crater in 24 hours, took six months to completely heal.

 

Nasty, nasty!

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Hey, the struts went good once I realized i had to disconnect the sway bar. Everything is hooked up and looks good. Nice and tall. Courtney is happy with it. It is a little off camber but she is going to take it to a shop for alignment. Motor is in and everything but I'm having problems.. starting a new thread about that.

 

Be carefu with that spider bite, go get a major broad spectrum antibiotic NOW, and stay on it for the full course.

 

I got bit and didn't know it until i developed a black rimmed hole in my arm the size of a pencil eraser. When from a 'pimple' to meteor crater in 24 hours, took six months to completely heal.

 

Nasty, nasty!

Thanks for the advice. The first BR bite I had was a cpl years ago on my back. I didn't know that's what it was until it was already healed.. it was a month or so before it was pink scar tissue. This one was much more severe and spreading dangerously fast around my knee. On the 7 or 8 day after getting bitten it was the size of a half dollar and just rotting away. I tried the electro shock treatment because I am too poor to go to the hospital. It looks great, I'm sleeping good, barely any pain.. and it's healing VERY quickly. I know it seems kinda loony.. but we used a 1 mile electrical fence box to zap it. You have to do it once right in the middle.. with one lead on the "Back side" of the limb or w/e you got bit. So, one lead in the back of my knee.. one zap to the center of the bite.. 5 more zaps around the perimiter... right as rain.. the pain went away with-in 10 minutes.. with-in 24 hours my body rejected 99% of the dead flesh and now i can already see new flesh growing in the GAPING hole that was left behind.

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Way OT at this point, but antibiotics will do absolutely nothing against a spider bite, since the spider is injecting a venom (a cocktail of nasty proteins). Antibiotics only work against living cells-ie, bacteria.

 

I like where this topic is going though. Especially brown recluse, which is much like a rattle snake.. their venom has a metallic element that causes necrosis. Thus, the elctro shock. (High voltage, low amperage nuetralizes the necrosis.) However, I have seen penicillin do wonders for dogs that have been bitten by BR.

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Way OT at this point, but antibiotics will do absolutely nothing against a spider bite, since the spider is injecting a venom (a cocktail of nasty proteins). Antibiotics only work against living cells-ie, bacteria.

 

I think the point is to prevent the bite from getting infected.

 

back on topic, the outbacks have taller swaybar mounts to put it farther from the body. You should be able to re-attach it with the car on the ground, so do that at least. You probably don't need to get new mounts.

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