artistic_gore Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 Hi all, Sorry for my first post being questions but I just got this car (yesterday infact) and it has some problems (it was a $400 car problems are expected). Anyways the front drivers side CV shaft is going out so me being a cheapskate I decided I would change it myself but after breaking 3 socket wrenches (2 with lifetime warantees against breakage) and 1 extension I feel that I may be doing something wrong or possibly I should take the car to a shop. My questions about this are "is there a technique I'm missing?" "Will a shop take my part and put it on for just labor?" Next on the list the previous owner said that the ABS compressor was just freewheeling even when the car was turned off so he unplugged it. I was curious and plugged it back in to no avail. Now there is an ABS warning light and the compressor isn't kicking on at all. Could a speed sensor have gone bad and kept the compressor running until it finally just failed and caused the fault? Lastly the airbag warning light is on. I haven't even read into the manual on this one but I'm wondering if it could be a bad sensor. Any help on this one would be appreciated. Sorry for running on, I'm exhausted and my grammar skills are lacking. Thank you very much, Bryce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artistic_gore Posted October 9, 2006 Author Share Posted October 9, 2006 Before my post drops away into second page oblivion let me reiterate my biggest concern so hopefully someone can provide some input. I have searched the board and everyone says that the axle nut is easy to get off but after 2 ratchets and a breaker bar I say neigh. Is there something I'm not doing? Here's a rundown of what I have been through so far. 1. Read the manual 2. Using a hammer and small screw driver bent the peening back out as far as I could get it. 3. Broke my 1/2" 6" extension 4. Tried to get the peening to come out further 5. Heated the nut 6. Broke my 1/2" ratchet 7. Broke my torque wrench (it's all I had at the house and was frustrated) 8. Doused the nut in PB blaster and went to bed 9. Resoaked the nut in PB blaster and went to buy a 1/2" breaker bar 10. Heated the nut and broke the breaker bar 11. Tried my impact wrench (I used it a few times throughout this process) So what is my next step? I was going to try using a better compressor at work but I found out that they got rid of the one I was going to try. I think I may take it to a shop but funds are limited. Thank you, Bryce Oh, one thing I was concidering was grinding off the outer neck on the nut to remove any chance that the peened portion is holding it on. Would this do anything or do I run the chance of effing things up worse by taking this course of action? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 How long was the breaker bar? You sure you have your ratchet on "loosen" not tighten? I've never seen a person who couldn't get the crown nut off... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMattyD Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 I'm pretty sure this person knows "lefty,loosey, righty tighty!!" The problem is that some people's axle nuts are harder to remove than others. Mine was actually easy to remove, but I have read many posts where the nut had to be cut off or the car taken to a truck garage to be blasted with a heavy duty impact wrench. It all depends on your particular situation. matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artistic_gore Posted October 9, 2006 Author Share Posted October 9, 2006 The breaker bar was 15" and I am trying to see if I can get help from someone on the 4x4 forum that I am a member of as far as using industrial tools goes. I just keep shaking my head, my family has had 7 or 8 subarus now and I have never had this much trouble with one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelbteam Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 This old car may be warning you, the early warning signs of a bad relationship that you might want to back out of before you get heavily invested in it! Sounds like a corroded can of worms to me. Good Luck! : Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artistic_gore Posted October 9, 2006 Author Share Posted October 9, 2006 Sounds like a corroded can of worms to me. Good Luck! : Thats the problem with living in the great lakes region most cars are heavily corroded. My 2002 cavalier is already rusting pretty bad in the underbody. Cars just get eaten here. I'm sticking with the subaru for reliability and integrity. I don't think there are to many cars that let you walk away after rolling them over and then wrapping them around a tree ('96 outback). I wanted to save my pennies and get an '02 outback but my cavalier got totalled and forced my hand. Cheap subarus are a rarity around here it seems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artistic_gore Posted October 9, 2006 Author Share Posted October 9, 2006 I think I am going to go with my idea of grinding off the outer sleeve on the nut to see if I'm just not getting the peening out of the groove. I'd rather eat part of the $60 core charge than have to pay $180 labor at the shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artistic_gore Posted October 9, 2006 Author Share Posted October 9, 2006 I think I am going to go with my idea of grinding off the outer sleeve on the nut to see if I'm just not getting the peening out of the groove. I'd rather eat part of the $60 core charge than have to pay $180 labor at the shop. Nix that, I just read another thread dealing with this issue and it seems that a die grinder and cold chisel will do the trick. Looks like I need to go back to harbor freight tomorrow for some more goodies. I'll let ya'll know how it turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 [...]Next on the list the previous owner said that the ABS compressor was just freewheeling even when the car was turned off so he unplugged it. I was curious and plugged it back in to no avail. Now there is an ABS warning light and the compressor isn't kicking on at all.[...] ABS info, including some on how to retrieve trouble codes: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/IdentifyInfo.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ABS.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 A mechanic would use his 3/4 drive on that nut. I bet a twelve pack would get the average truck place to break it loose for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 for axle nuts, 3/4" sockets are the way to go. i went through the hassle of breaking multiple 1/2" sockets, break bars and brands for a long time. i finally upgraded to a 3/4" socket wrench and slide a long freaking pipe (3 or 4 foot) over the handle. well worth the investment. no more broken parts and makes the job very easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artistic_gore Posted October 9, 2006 Author Share Posted October 9, 2006 for axle nuts, 3/4" sockets are the way to go. i went through the hassle of breaking multiple 1/2" sockets, break bars and brands for a long time. i finally upgraded to a 3/4" socket wrench and slide a long freaking pipe (3 or 4 foot) over the handle. well worth the investment. no more broken parts and makes the job very easy. I'm gonna go try something...what's the standard equivelant of 32mm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 You also want to use an impact socket. Your average Craftsman type is not that studly when you put some power on it. Gary has worked out what works for him with a good big pipe. Up in Maine when I was a kid my Dad and I used to break the lug nuts on our trucks with a good 3/4 incher, an impact socket, and a big piece of pipe like Gary uses. Nothing like a salt rusted old truck lug nut for a good workout. Sometimes the torch had to come out if they were tight enough. Later in my career as a truck and bus mechanic I became very thankful for 3/4 and 1 inch air tools. A few folks here have gotten on my case b3ecuse the only two times I have changed axles I just drove over to the local tire place and had them break the nuts for me. I tighten them up to drive back home but they come off pretty easy in the back yard. I know it's better not to use air impact and torches but sometimes it is a lot easier on rusty stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 I'm gonna go try something...what's the standard equivelant of 32mm? If by "standard" you mean "English" (inches), 1-1/4" is 31.75mm; might fit, might not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artistic_gore Posted October 9, 2006 Author Share Posted October 9, 2006 If by "standard" you mean "English" (inches), 1-1/4" is 31.75mm; might fit, might not. By standard I mean SAE if someone told me english I would think they meant english standard like the tools used on old MGs. But yes I figured 1 1/4" to be the closest but couldn't find one here in a 3/4" socket size so I came up with a gameplan. Tomorrow I will go to harborfreight and get some grinding and cutting tools and a cold chisel. Grind the neck off the nut to see if that does anything. Maybe break another breaker bar. And if worse comes to worse I will cut/chisel the nut off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 Sounds like a miserable rusty job. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artistic_gore Posted October 9, 2006 Author Share Posted October 9, 2006 Sounds like a miserable rusty job. Good luck! Thank you. I'm sure I'll post one of those "hot damn, now its done, time to move on to the 41 other things on my list" posts sometime tomorrow. I just hope I don't jack the old CV to bad trying to get this nut off. I was lying before I want my $60 back. I'm cheap and that money can go towards other necessities on the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamal Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 I have an 18" flex handle and a big 32mm socket for axle nuts that I got at autozone. I couldn't get mine off by hand so I took off the center cap, rested the handle on a jackstand, and drove the car forward a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 I am sure I could do mine in San Mateo as Jamal did. We just don't get much for corrosion here in CA. When I changed my struts a couple of years ago I didn't even have penetrating oil out. Nothing was hard at all. When my friends show up with east coast beaters we have to patch up for the return trip it is a different story. Good thing I have a torch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artistic_gore Posted October 9, 2006 Author Share Posted October 9, 2006 I have an 18" flex handle and a big 32mm socket for axle nuts that I got at autozone. I couldn't get mine off by hand so I took off the center cap, rested the handle on a jackstand, and drove the car forward a bit. Thank you for the advice. I was concidering that yesterday (but no jackstand) but with the 1/2" drive I figured it would just break (...) But harborfreight has a 3/4" metric set with 19mm through like 40mm for $50 on sale for $37 if the retail store will recognize the online price I think I will be in business. If I find a way to break a 3/4" drive I'll let ya'll know how. Time to sleep. I have the mid-watch tonight and need to get some rest so I don't crash my subie on the way home tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 On the way see if you can find a piece of pipe. About six feet ought to do pretty well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamal Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 The $10 flex handle did a good job for me. What kind of ratches are you breaking? Some 1/2 thing from autozone will probably break a lot easier than a higher quality (Craftsman and up) tool. And you don't have jackstands? Get some- a set like is $15 at Sears. Please don't tell me you're working on the car with the scissor jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artistic_gore Posted October 10, 2006 Author Share Posted October 10, 2006 The $10 flex handle did a good job for me. What kind of ratches are you breaking? Some 1/2 thing from autozone will probably break a lot easier than a higher quality (Craftsman and up) tool. And you don't have jackstands? Get some- a set like is $15 at Sears. Please don't tell me you're working on the car with the scissor jack. I've got jackstands. I just wasn't thinking of setting my breaking bar on one. And the tools i've broken so far have been a stanley, a snap-on, some asian job (my old torque wrench), and a $15 breaking bar from advance auto parts. Also my local sears went out of business but I heard that K-mart is stocking craftsman now or at least they are supposed to start so I may stop by there at some point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted October 10, 2006 Share Posted October 10, 2006 you need a 24" (min., 36" is better) breaker bar 3/4" drive. you won't use it everyday, but when you need it you'll have it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.