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ericem

Occasional ABS light(broken CV boot,grease?)

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Dang abs light comes on every so often, and now its winter, and i need it to work ALL the time. So, i im guessing the oil from the front left CV with a broken boot is spewing all over the abs sensor, and occasionally causes the light to come on, and usually when it comes on i cant look at the ABS unit to count the light flashes because im in a rush, just hoping its just the grease spewing, the boot has about a 1inch rip.

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You shouldn't ever be in a situation where you need the ABS. You should always be following at a safe distance.

 

And, it's best to learn how to pump the brakes anyways.

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You shouldn't ever be in a situation where you need the ABS. You should always be following at a safe distance.

 

And, it's best to learn how to pump the brakes anyways.

 

WHAT? Is that what the abs is for? so i pump the brakes? i didnt say i want to pump my brakes, i said i want to know if grease spewing from the CV can cause occansional sensor failure!! JEESE!

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ABS are Anti-Lock brakes (they pulse the brakes for you so the wheels do not lock up, giving tractions so you can still steer your car out of possibly hazardous situations. Being too close doesnt mean anything, ABS usually doesnt stop you faster, just keeps the wheels from locking up)

 

. You can take it somewhere to have the ABS code read and it will tell you exactly why the light is coming on, its very well possible a Wheel speed sensor is failing, and theres four of them, so I would just get the code read and find out exactly whats up.

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ABS are Anti-Lock brakes (they pulse the brakes for you so the wheels do not lock up, giving tractions so you can still steer your car out of possibly hazardous situations. Being too close doesnt mean anything, ABS usually doesnt stop you faster, just keeps the wheels from locking up)

 

. You can take it somewhere to have the ABS code read and it will tell you exactly why the light is coming on, its very well possible a Wheel speed sensor is failing, and theres four of them, so I would just get the code read and find out exactly whats up.

 

thanks, now, i read how to check the abs codes, and i need to look at the light on the ABS unit, now the problem is it only flashes when the abs light is on, but it comes on very rarely. If im near my dealer ill get it checked out, but is the abs sensor sealed? or can they get dirty?

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Umm i researched alot on my own GM cars finicky ABS system, but sometimes the speed sensors and wheel bearings are single units, so thier not servicable, but im not sure on your particular car. The codes are stored in the ABS computer untill the faul has not been detected for like, 50-100 key cycles. So Its in memory still im sure.

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Umm i researched alot on my own GM cars finicky ABS system, but sometimes the speed sensors and wheel bearings are single units, so thier not servicable, but im not sure on your particular car. The codes are stored in the ABS computer untill the faul has not been detected for like, 50-100 key cycles. So Its in memory still im sure.

 

ok, thanks. But i think the bearings and the sensor is separate on the subaru's.

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ok, thanks. But i think the bearings and the sensor is separate on the subaru's.
You are correct. The bearing and abs sensor are separate. I don't think a spraying CV would cause the issue you describe. I say replace the sensor and/or abs disc and have a good day.

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ABS disc? The system moniters the function of wheel speed sensors, electronic selenoids for all the brake lines, and faults in the computer and control system. It sets a light for a non responding sensor so it shuts down the entire ABS system and brings up the light, so the system doesnt malfunction and cause a potentielly hasardous situation. The above components are what make up ABS systems for any vehicle.

 

So you most likley will have to check the ABS codes to find out wich sensor it is, and replace it, wich is most likley your problem, the code will tell u exactly which sensor at which wheel was malfunctioning.

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ABS disc? The system moniters the function of wheel speed sensors, electronic selenoids for all the brake lines, and faults in the computer and control system. It sets a light for a non responding sensor so it shuts down the entire ABS system and brings up the light, so the system doesnt malfunction and cause a potentielly hasardous situation. The above components are what make up ABS systems for any vehicle.

 

So you most likley will have to check the ABS codes to find out wich sensor it is, and replace it, wich is most likley your problem, the code will tell u exactly which sensor at which wheel was malfunctioning.

As I recall, the ABS sensor reads a disc mounted on the hub to determine if the brakes are locking up....

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I seem to recall some type of relationship between the ABS light and when the alternator is about to die. Might want to check out your alternator next - a lot easier to work on than tearing apart the hub/brakes.

:confused:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68345&highlight=abs+alternator

 

Actually this is a good point, but i just changed the alternator, and i get about 14v, driving, but when it idles at 400rpm's you can KIND of see the dash and wipers, and vents slow down, but when i take off, everything gets more powerful.:rolleyes: Im not crazy about the grounding mod though.

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SUbaru ABS is a four channel system, meaning that there is one sensor for each wheel (there were some three channel systems out there).

The sensors are hall effect. This means everytime a square tooth passes by them, they make an electrical pulse that the ABS puter reads. The abs will pulse the brakes to that sheel/s that is/are slipping. ABS will shorten your breaking distance compared to sliding on a slick surface, but it makes it longer then on dry ground (hence why you still need to leave lost of room betweehn you and another car). ABS is the biggest help when breaking on curves or when two wheels slip and the others have traction, It helps you maintain control. The only time abs makes things worse is in unplowed snow or loose dirt and gravel. In those cases the material piles up in front of the tires and makes a wedge.

If the wheel sensors get too dirty (it happens) they will throw a code. It is very possible that there is grease and dirt on the sensor that is throwing it off, or it can be a totally differnt sensor that is dirty.

 

nipper

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SUbaru ABS is a four channel system, meaning that there is one sensor for each wheel (there were some three channel systems out there).

The sensors are hall effect. This means everytime a square tooth passes by them, they make an electrical pulse that the ABS puter reads. The abs will pulse the brakes to that sheel/s that is/are slipping. ABS will shorten your breaking distance compared to sliding on a slick surface, but it makes it longer then on dry ground (hence why you still need to leave lost of room betweehn you and another car). ABS is the biggest help when breaking on curves or when two wheels slip and the others have traction, It helps you maintain control. The only time abs makes things worse is in unplowed snow or loose dirt and gravel. In those cases the material piles up in front of the tires and makes a wedge.

If the wheel sensors get too dirty (it happens) they will throw a code. It is very possible that there is grease and dirt on the sensor that is throwing it off, or it can be a totally differnt sensor that is dirty.

 

nipper

 

Ok, perfect, thanks nip, thats exactly what i wanted to know, is it a good idea to wash it with water i just spray the hub is that alright? THe abs light stopped coming on so i guess its alright. Time will tell.

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Ok, perfect, thanks nip, thats exactly what i wanted to know, is it a good idea to wash it with water i just spray the hub is that alright? THe abs light stopped coming on so i guess its alright. Time will tell.

 

you have to clean them buy getting your hand on them and wiping them glean, especiually if grease is involved

 

 

nipper

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you have to clean them buy getting your hand on them and wiping them glean, especiually if grease is involved

 

 

nipper

 

ok, i went out, and as soon as i turned it on, the battery was a tad bit weak, and the abs light came on upon start up and didnt even move yet, so it must be low voltage, and when i put the vent speed to the highest setting the vents slow down, and the dash lights, and exterrior lights dim. Is this a alternator problem or battery? the battery was just replaced by subaru with a subaru battery, and the alternator was just replaced as well. Tommorow ill check the voltage at the battery, but the abs light was on, and the led on the abs unit didn't flash i waited a pretty long time but no light, but it said according to abs diagnois instructions, if no LED flashes, then there is improper voltage. But i think this might be a alternator issue, because once the car is started i dont think it matters much if the battery is weak or not, it should still be able to run the car above 12v. What do you think?

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ok, i went out, and as soon as i turned it on, the battery was a tad bit weak, and the abs light came on upon start up and didnt even move yet, so it must be low voltage, and when i put the vent speed to the highest setting the vents slow down, and the dash lights, and exterrior lights dim. Is this a alternator problem or battery? the battery was just replaced by subaru with a subaru battery, and the alternator was just replaced as well. Tommorow ill check the voltage at the battery, but the abs light was on, and the led on the abs unit didn't flash i waited a pretty long time but no light, but it said according to abs diagnois instructions, if no LED flashes, then there is improper voltage. But i think this might be a alternator issue, because once the car is started i dont think it matters much if the battery is weak or not, it should still be able to run the car above 12v. What do you think?

 

a dying alternator will trigger the ABS fault light. This happens due to a weird backfeed of the sharging circuit. So you may have a bad altenator and nothing wrong with the abs. The car should be at 13.5-14 volts.

How old is your battery?

 

nipper

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a dying alternator will trigger the ABS fault light. This happens due to a weird backfeed of the sharging circuit. So you may have a bad altenator and nothing wrong with the abs. The car should be at 13.5-14 volts.

How old is your battery?

 

nipper

 

well subaru installed a subaru battery in june. So fairly new.

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Alternator is toast. I'd check the connections first, but I'm willing to bet that the alternator is shot.

 

Too bad you did the wrong thing and bought a battery from Subaru. There are somethings that need to be OEM - batteries are not one of them. Optima Yellow Tops are much better than Subaru batteries.

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Alternator is toast. I'd check the connections first, but I'm willing to bet that the alternator is shot.

 

Too bad you did the wrong thing and bought a battery from Subaru. There are somethings that need to be OEM - batteries are not one of them. Optima Yellow Tops are much better than Subaru batteries.

 

definitly aware of that, but my first OEM battery lasted 9 years, and the alternator lasted about 11 years. I think thats good, but we did top it up once, the battery got replaced, because my dad thought it was a good option to get it replaced, because we had a motomaster battery in there, and subaru tested it and said it was weak.

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definitly aware of that, but my first OEM battery lasted 9 years, and the alternator lasted about 11 years. I think thats good, but we did top it up once, the battery got replaced, because my dad thought it was a good option to get it replaced, because we had a motomaster battery in there, and subaru tested it and said it was weak.
Still wondering why you listen to a dealer. Dealers are there to make money and will screw you out of it willingly. You have to learn that.

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Still wondering why you listen to a dealer. Dealers are there to make money and will screw you out of it willingly. You have to learn that.

 

you see my thread about gettings screwed by my local mechanic who i though was cheaper? Subaru IMO is better i dont care, atleast when they make a wrong like order the wrong part, they give me a brand new car to drive, and usually let me drive it for a LONG time. And THEY never surprise me, they always contact me before ADDING anything to my bill, unlike the dam transmission shop. And subaru told me, that they could have dont the job they quoted for 1500 for the same price, except they replace the WHOLE unit where hte drive solenoid c is, to a newer designed unit, that doesn't get torque bind, or isn't as fragile. AND atleast my car would have had honest work done, not some guy who charges 3000 to swap the tranny with a used one.

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you see my thread about gettings screwed by my local mechanic who i though was cheaper? Subaru IMO is better i dont care, atleast when they make a wrong like order the wrong part, they give me a brand new car to drive, and usually let me drive it for a LONG time. And THEY never surprise me, they always contact me before ADDING anything to my bill, unlike the dam transmission shop. And subaru told me, that they could have dont the job they quoted for 1500 for the same price, except they replace the WHOLE unit where hte drive solenoid c is, to a newer designed unit, that doesn't get torque bind, or isn't as fragile. AND atleast my car would have had honest work done, not some guy who charges 3000 to swap the tranny with a used one.
It's your job to be a responsible car owner. You have to be knowlegeable about your car and about what happens to it.

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definitly aware of that, but my first OEM battery lasted 9 years, and the alternator lasted about 11 years. I think thats good, but we did top it up once, the battery got replaced, because my dad thought it was a good option to get it replaced, because we had a motomaster battery in there, and subaru tested it and said it was weak.

 

My original battery was still going well after 7 years.....but I changed it out during a dubious period in my troubleshooting that turned out to simply be worn solenoid contacts on my starter. Not only did that battery serve my car well, but it was hauled across a lake in my lap on a jetski for 10 miles to jump a dead boat battery. Luckily it did not end up falling into the water :).

 

Alternator......I'm still thinking alternator.

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My original battery was still going well after 7 years.....but I changed it out during a dubious period in my troubleshooting that turned out to simply be worn solenoid contacts on my starter. Not only did that battery serve my car well, but it was hauled across a lake in my lap on a jetski for 10 miles to jump a dead boat battery. Luckily it did not end up falling into the water :).

 

Alternator......I'm still thinking alternator.

 

me to, but i still got 1 year warrenty :banana:

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