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Dealership or independent mechanic? How much should I be looking to spend. I just bought an 01 Outback automatic for a very good price. I guess the guy was discounting it because he knew that it would need the 100k timing belt change. It has 103500 right now.

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I have found Timing belts and pulley on E-Bay for 150 or so.

 

At least here in Vermont, I know of a couple of places that charge 5-600 for belt, water pump, pulleys and labor. Not sure what it might cost in your area.

 

Also question to Everyone else. Should timing belts be changed around 60-80000 miles?

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Dealership or independent mechanic? How much should I be looking to spend. I just bought an 01 Outback automatic for a very good price. I guess the guy was discounting it because he knew that it would need the 100k timing belt change. It has 103500 right now.

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I have found Timing belts and pulley on E-Bay for 150 or so.

 

At least here in Vermont, I know of a couple of places that charge 5-600 for belt, water pump, pulleys and labor. Not sure what it might cost in your area.

 

Also question to Everyone else. Should timing belts be changed around 60-80000 miles?

 

60k, unless there are cases where the timing belt is a different p/n (and more expensive) for California. In those cases, 100k between belt, as CA emissions belts (at least on older cars) were required to last longer between replacements.

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105K for a timing belt.

 

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html

 

raven05649 is correct, it should run you about $600-700 with water pump.

 

While the mechanic is there have them check the oil pump and front oils seals. Much cheaper to have them serviced now than later.

 

You might also want the headgaskets checked for external leaks. If the car was treated with the coolant additive, it was covered by SOA to 100K. You would be out of the coverage, buy if it is evidence of leakage you might want to have a dealership look at it.

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Check them both, sometimes you can get a deal at tthe dealer. What should be done at this time is:

Water pump

Main seal

Oil Pump Seal

Cam Seals

Tming belt

tensioner

 

This way you dont have to touch the front of the engine for another 106,000 miles. Keep in mind that the price may be 600 plus, but you wont have to do this again untill you hit 200,000 plus miles. OPtherwise the seals WILL leak between now and then, and the timing belt has to be rmoved to fix the seals.

 

nipper

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Recently replaced T-B, 4 cam, main, and oil-pump seals, plus drive-belts, for $600 incl. tax, at Gold Coast Subaru, Glen Cove, LI. For the same job minus drive-belts was quoted $700 by two other Subaru dealers, and $600 by an independent. For just the T-B was quoted $395 by one dealer.

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I've gotten to "estimates" thus far. The dealership came in at $550 "or so" and that includes the seals. An indy came in at $275". How important is it to get the water pump and or seals done? The dealership didn't even mention the water pump.

 

Thanks again

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I've gotten to "estimates" thus far. The dealership came in at $550 "or so" and that includes the seals. An indy came in at $275". How important is it to get the water pump and or seals done? The dealership didn't even mention the water pump.

 

Thanks again

 

$550 is about what I paid at the dealer which is were I recommend it be done. I used an independent mechanic the first time, they got it all wrong, belt slipped, left me stranded, had to get towed, and have a new one installed by the dealer anyway. It is cheaper to do it once, and correctly, for a little bit more money than possibly cutting corners at an independent and having to pay for it twice. Not to mention the cost of towing and the hassle.

 

-V5

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You can read the following re: replacing the water pump

 

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/AboutEWAug06.pdf?PHPSESSID=6e29f191633962bdafa56e8627bd306f

 

My own experience was when I had a 2.2L, the interval was 60K so I did the belt only at 60K, then at 120K I did the water pump and crankshaft front seal. So every other timing belt, I did the water pump. I didn't have the later oil pump nor cam seal leaks. I had that Legacy for over 200K.

 

Now my 02 and 04 2.5L, since the timing belt interval is 105K, the pump will be replaced then. And with 3 dealers within 30 minutes, I will inspect the other seals and replae them if i see and leaks or seepage.

 

End of my experience and $.02

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timing belts are easy. an independent shop can easily do this job. request a subaru timing belt and water pump if the independent shop is doing the job. they or you can order the parts from 1stsubaruparts.com or other online OEM parts retailers. follow nippers thoughts above.

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Independent shop did the change and put new seals in for $275.

 

I was very pleased.

 

Thanks for all your input. Now if I could stop the wind noise coming from the driver side window and stop the high pitch squeal at high RPMs I'd be ecstatic.

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Thanks for all your input. Now if I could stop the wind noise coming from the driver side window

Stick a piece of black network cable (about 12" long) between the pieces of the door gasket near the mirror. That should get rid of it. If it doesn't, you probably have the mirror gusset issue (search).
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  • 3 years later...

I want to get my timing belt changed on my '93 Legacy. Cost estimate? Also I have an oil leak. I've been told that its most likely caused by a head gasket cover. Does this sound right? And would it be easier to get both done at the same time?

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I want to get my timing belt changed on my '93 Legacy. Cost estimate? Also I have an oil leak. I've been told that its most likely caused by a head gasket cover. Does this sound right? And would it be easier to get both done at the same time?

 

It would be best if you started a new thread, but......

 

These timing belts are easy and you could do it yourself. When I do them for people I typically charge $200 plus parts. The kits for the early EJ's are cheap on ebay - $121. I have had no problem with them and expect they will last easily till the next belt change in another 60k.

 

Valve cover gaskets and the passenger rear cam cover o-ring are usual oil leaks. I suspect they meant valve cover gasket when they said "head gasket cover" as there is no such part.

 

GD

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