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driveshaft/tranny connection leak,please help!


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the rear input shaft seal is just like replacing any other seal. it's very easy but it is annoying to get to. on your back, under the vehicle with limited space. but otherwise not bad. all you need to do is drop the drive shaft, just unbolt the covering if it has one over the driveshaft, then unbolt the carrier bearing, that's the center support for the driveshaft that's held by maybe 2 17mm bolts to the underside of the car. that should give it enough play to pull out of the transmission. as a last resort even pulling the driveshaft out isn't hard at all, just a couple more bolts. once the drive shaft is pulled out, just carefully remove and install a new seal with properly oiled and greased like you would any other seal. take care not to scratch the metal surface when pulling the old one out and seat the other one perfectly straight. make sure the driveshaft end that slides into the trans is in good shape - no rust or anything that would damage your new seal.

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When I first seen it, it looked like the cat section of the exhaust would have to come off, but I'm guessing it can be done w/out taking that off?

This car has been my daily driver for 2 1/2 years now and this is the first trouble its given me. I'm used to having to fix my own problems since I own a 93 RX-7 so I'm on my back alot under a car, lol.

Thanks for the help man!

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When I first seen it, it looked like the cat section of the exhaust would have to come off, but I'm guessing it can be done w/out taking that off?

This car has been my daily driver for 2 1/2 years now and this is the first trouble its given me. I'm used to having to fix my own problems since I own a 93 RX-7 so I'm on my back alot under a car, lol.

Thanks for the help man!

 

On my 95 Legacy Outback I had to drop from the rear cat back to remove the cover and drop the driveshaft. That was the hardest part of the job, several days of trying to free frozen exhaust bolts and then an hour or two removing the driveshaft and replacing the seal. I had to cut a couple of them off. Needless to say, I replaced the nuts and bolts with stainless steel ones.

 

good luck,

 

matt

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crack, i forgot the exhaust. that will most likely need to be removed. i have dropped a driveshaft before by squeezing it through and pushing the exhaust out of the way, but doubt that's how you should do this. it'll be in the way of replacing the seal probably. rusty exhaust bolts suck for sure. spray down with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench as much and often as you can before touching rusty bolts. WD40 is not a good alternative.

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Ok thanks mjreilly and grossgary! I think i'm gonna do this tomorrow or the next day. I'll be sure to post how it goes. Once again Thanks for the help. BTW, do you all know what the seal is called? Driveshaft seal?

 

Rear transmission seal?

 

EDIT

 

I looked it up, extension housing seal. At least that's how they list it a autopartswarehouse.com. This looks just like the part I replaced.

 

cheers,

 

matt

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Seals usually have a surface with a rubber lip that runs on the rotating area. Conventional use is to oil or grease this surface. Drive it in flat and straight making sure you end with the lip on a good wearing surface.

 

yeah i knew that part..i got confused there thinking i was supposed to lube the outer edge.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Yeah, just the rear output seal come in and only one exhauist gasket. I am doing it tonight though. I'm tired of waiing for a damn exhaust gasket, so until my other one comes in, i'm going to be running open exhaust from the headers back. I highly doubt my vavles will freeze, it ain't that cold here.

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he PM'ed me and here was my reply, i'll copy it here so i can keep things straight:

 

i'm not sure what you mean by "metal side in". the "flat" side...which i would call the "metal side", should be installed facing OUT, not IN, so you may have installed it incorrectly? the seal will have a lip on the "inside" portion, with a sealing spring inside of the lip...but you won't actually see this metal sealing spring unless you peel the lip back or look closely. here's a better way to say it...seals typically (at least the stock subaru seals), will always have ANY writing, number, or lettering on the OUTSIDE of the seal, it should be facing you after you install it, you should still be able to read those numbers. there is no numbering or lettering on the side that faces IN.

does that help?

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he PM'ed me and here was my reply, i'll copy it here so i can keep things straight:

 

i'm not sure what you mean by "metal side in". the "flat" side...which i would call the "metal side", should be installed facing OUT, not IN, so you may have installed it incorrectly? the seal will have a lip on the "inside" portion, with a sealing spring inside of the lip...but you won't actually see this metal sealing spring unless you peel the lip back or look closely. here's a better way to say it...seals typically (at least the stock subaru seals), will always have ANY writing, number, or lettering on the OUTSIDE of the seal, it should be facing you after you install it, you should still be able to read those numbers. there is no numbering or lettering on the side that faces IN.

does that help?

Ok, the seal I got from Subaru had a metal band around the bottom half of it, the one I took off didn't. They both looked the same though. I seen the spring inside of it and it is hard to see.

I plan on going at it again in the morning since I'm off. I appreciate the help man.

 

Ok also just so i don't look like a dumba**, I'm not the one that took the seal out, a friend of mine did he he forgot how it went in,lol.

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