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ea81 to ea82 swap *sticky?*

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framerail modifacations are not necessary for the ea82 to fit. only with a lift is it necessary...

 

tom's brat and our GLF have no framerail mods. my trashwagon has framerail mods, only becaise the motor was installed with a lift, and then the lift was taken out. the motor fits normally without the lift

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what about the ER-27? its an EA-82 with two more cylinders on the front would the fit with no frame rail mods?

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I'm still preping (painting and reassembling) my spfi EA82. My plan on the frame was to shim the engine mounts to raise the engine a half inch or so. No lift, my brat is a pavement muncher. May lower it a little though. I like the way it corners during Florida's rainy season in 4wd. Posi's cool on a wet road.

I'm also planning to use the FI computer and will try to photo and document all I can.

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why would you want it to sit higher? higher center if gravity in the front, hood clearance may become a problem, and theres no reason to do it.

just a thought, good luck on the efi wiring, im still fighting that battle

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Originally posted by jethopper

What do you have to do to the chassis rails if the car has a lift in it ? are there differences usaing the different lift sizes, 50mm or 100mm ?

 

you will have to cut into the framerail by the crossmember bount on the driver side, cut about 1/2 inch into the framerail, the structural part of the crossmember mount will be exposed, but not cut into

 

 

the passenger side may bneed a little for the middle of the cam cover.

 

the timing belts covers will interfere wit hthe front portion of the frame, you can modify the plastic covers, or leave them off altogether

 

i run all my ea82 without tinong belt covers, for serviceability. have never had issues running exposed belts. although ti leave the portion behind the t-belt idler pulley on the bottom driver side

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you will have to cut into the framerail by the crossmember bount on the driver side, cut about 1/2 inch into the framerail, the structural part of the crossmember mount will be exposed, but not cut into

 

So this cut is for where the dizzy is bolted to on the head ?

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yes, this is where most of your cutting will be. you might have to cut the other side, or whack a good dent there for clearance

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When I did my ea81 to ea82 swap I installed the motor with the disty uninstalled and had to push on the break master-cylinder to get it in but other than that there was no trouble with it. Oh yeah the conversion was on an 81' gl-f (dl-10)

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I read alot of carbed EA-82 transplants, has anyone got a tbi up and running? The only part of the fuel control system I'm missing is the instrument cluster. If my BRAT has cruise control, can't I use the speed sensor in the current speedo?

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hey good idea. imagine having an ea82 steering column, workinf with the cruise control and ea81 components, and yet having lights and wipers on the steering column too.

 

suppose we could explore the possibilites of swapping all aspects of the ea82 into ea81 cars.

 

i have put an ea82 suspension on the front of an 83 wagon. i got rear trailing arms and rear disc in back.

 

at one time i had ea82 coilovers in place of shocks. but in order to use ea82 axles in theback, the track will have to be widened, may have to adapt an ea82 rear suspension tube in place of the trsion tube, inless there were a way to widen the torsion tube or the flange that 3 bolts to the loewer control arm

 

the narrower track is not much different, i liked the combo torsion bar/coilover for weight handling and cornering

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My question was concerning the fuel computer requiring a 4 pulse signal per revolution of the speedo cable. My Brat has factory cruise which also requires a speed sensor. I want to know if the cruise sensor is the same one as the ecu or can I parallel the the sensor to both computers. I would rather not try to put the EA-82 instr. cluster in my Brat.

 

Oh yeah, when I bought the doner EA-82, it came with the p/s pump and a/c compressor. We'll see....

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I'll save this topic for my website in the "subaru Mods" page

 

maybe the xisting cruise will work with te ea82, the cruises i have seen have a vacuum diaphragm at the oedal itself, if you keep your existing speed sensor and cruise circuitry, maybe you can get it to work at the throttle end, regardless of your engine congiguration

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i just got mine started so i have completed the ea82 swap. have yet to drive, but that comes tomorrow. i gotta post pics, its looks nice, with no vac lines or stock crap at all.

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cool. nice to see other ea82 conversions, mine, tom's, the glf, and yours! lots of collective info on such an EASY mod!

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heres an important one.

 

if you are going to use an ea81 exhaust system on an ea82. you will need the air suction bracket/flange, to make up the space, between the header and the head.

or you have to replace the ea81 manifold for an ea82.

 

yah, its a reeely easy mod, you jump up about 20 hp, for the 14 lbs of extra weight.

 

well worth it, even thought i have to change timing belts now. better than 75 hp.

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Why not convert to at least a Turbo EA82? Much better power improvment for all your work. I swaped an EA82T into my old 81 GL Safari wagon and it was pretty damn fast, untill it cracked the heads.:( To much boost I suppose.

 

I still have the wiring harness and computer ready for install, but it's out of a 86 GL-10 sedan so it has the door type MAF. Still went good thoe.

 

 

Aside from that why not just go for the EJ22T swap or other EJ motor swap. The motor is narrower and has even more power and less places to leak oil:rolleyes: I did an EJ22T swap into my Loyal and it was no more involved than doing the EA swap as far as the wiring goes.

 

 

Oh yeah, I never had the speed sensor hooked up in my 81' and the computer never seemed to care, never threw on a CEL anyway.

Also I did have to massage the left frame rail with a BFH for extra clearance. I also swapped in a Loyal brake booster and master to make more room for the dist. I did have to beat out around strut tower to clear the booster.

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thats what i did at first. ea82, mpfi with the flapper. i couldt get an ignition pulse, and no injectors fired, just spark. when it gets warm agian i'll get a different hatch going with a turbo. i just need some help on getting the mpfi to work, with out using the whole harness, and the dash, and all that crap.

 

why no ej? time and money. plain and simple. i dont have enough of either. but hopefully i can fix that later.

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Well the dist signal fires the injectors, so you might be missing that. Did you have any tach action? Could you make it run if you sprayed carb cleaner in the throttle body? I once tried to hook up an MSD SCI to it but the MSD stole the signal from the injectors and I could only make it run on carb cleaner. MSD does make an amplifyier to increace the signal to run both, and MSD's will work on an SPI motor. Anyway, getting off topic.

 

 

PS. Your PM box if full.

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it would run on ether, and gas right down the throat. i had the tack working. the injectors never opened up. i wasnt using any resistors like my manual showed, and i was runing hot wires to get it going. like i said, that'll bet done this summer, when its warmer. i got a big fmic, and a t3 that needs a home.

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