Gloyale Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 it's very simple. if you can wire a switch, you can wire an indicator light. i installed an LED and wired it on the same circuit, that's all. ground on one side, power on the other. make sure the switch that you buy has room for two circuits, that's all. wire the "duty solenoid" on one circuit, then the light on the other. that way when you turn it "On", it's completing both circuits...one for the solenoid, the other for the light. a radio shack or sound system place would likely be able to help you with it if you're having trouble picturing it. Okay, I get the 2 circuit switch. But here is the thing. To get the "locked" 4wd, the circuit should be open,i.e. switch "off". So that would not complete the circuit for the light. Is this how you did yours? With the switch simply interupting the current? Is your light on in the normal mode and goes off in "locked". confused Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 you have it exactly right - break that wire and you are "locked". un-break it and youre back to stock configuration with the TCU in control. if you want a light, you'll have to run a power and ground wire to get a light to come on when in the "locked" position. that is what i did. in the "locked" position, the circuit is broken and an indicator light comes on, and for that light you'll need power and ground obviously. but you can do whatever you want...wire a light, alarm, buzzer, radio, horn, siren, timer, computer...whatever you want to come on whenever you want, when it's "locked" or "unlocked", that is all entirely up to you and is not directly related to this mod at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 in the "locked" position, the circuit is broken and an indicator light comes on, and for that light you'll need power and ground obviously. I have already installed the switch to break the circuit. It works:Flame: great but i would like to have a light to indicate. I don't get how you open the circuit for the Lock but CLOSE the cicuit for the light. are you using a 3 position switch? Power and ground for the light I get. But which do you run through the switch? it has to be a seperate circuit so it must be a 2 circuit switch. Maybe a 3 position, 6 pole switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 sorry i don't know all the terms for switches. it only needs to be a "on-off" two position switch. at one position...everything is normal, stock so to speak. in the other position mine has two receptacles for two circuits - i use one for the light and one for the duty C. to say it another way it has 4 "prongs" in one position. but they are not "connected" so to speak. 2 for one circuit, 2 for another. hope that helps. radio shack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 sorry i don't know all the terms for switches. it only needs to be a "on-off" two position switch. at one position...everything is normal, stock so to speak. in the other position mine has two receptacles for two circuits - i use one for the light and one for the duty C. to say it another way it has 4 "prongs" in one position. but they are not "connected" so to speak. 2 for one circuit, 2 for another. hope that helps. radio shack. O.K. but how do you get the light to go on by breaking the circuit? When it's in lock the switch is in the "off" position so how does it turn the light ON? Do you see what I'm saying? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 i see what you're saying. i didn't necessarily understand all of the switch options either. do what i did. go to a store - i went to a radio shack, and ask them what switch will work for what you're trying to do. actually just by looking at the different switches it should be obvious how to do it. it made a whole lot more sense when i went to the store, looked at what they were, read the packaging. you can probably find it on-line. it's definitely very easy, nothing hard or difficult about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 Gloyal, you want a DPDT switch. (Double Pole Double Throw) with no center off. Bottom of the switch wiring looks like this Light will be on when there is no connection to DSC. BTW DSC is in control of the DRAIN spool valve for the rear drive hyd pres. clutch pack. If this drain is closed (i.e. DSC getting no power), the drain is closed and all hyd pressure is put on the clutch pack thus engaging it. Hope this helps. Thanks to Nipper for the link and correction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 OK people should not be doing this if they dont have a basic idea of what switches are and how they work. http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/switch.htm double pole double throw switch. Two indenpendt circuits on one switch. You can wire it so when one side breaks the circuit, the other side makes another circuit. nipper 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 a picture is worth.....a billion words when i don't know the actual terms! you guys are no fun, you spoiled the circus act of my weak electrical vocab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 well first off you need the proper normenclature you didnt use the word "thingie" once nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 you didnt use the word "thingie" oncei'll work on that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 OK people should not be doing this if they dont have a basic idea of what switches are and how they work. double pole double throw switch. Two indenpendt circuits on one switch. You can wire it so when one side breaks the circuit, the other side makes another circuit. nipper Please don't try to tell me I don't know what a switch is. As I said, I have already put in the "lock" switch. I was asking what specific switch grossgary used. And like I thought, and mentioned, what is needed is a double pole(2 circuit) Double throw(two different "on" positions). Ends up having 6 connection prongs like is I asked about earlier. I did know what was needed, however like Grossgary I was not using the "correct" terms. I was asking Grossgary how he set his up, not "what's a switch? DUH?" The diagram provided by skip was perfect and answered my question. Much more useful than your naysaying and condescension Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 Please don't try to tell me I don't know what a switch is. As I said, I have already put in the "lock" switch. I was asking what specific switch grossgary used. And like I thought, and mentioned, what is needed is a double pole(2 circuit) Double throw(two different "on" positions). Ends up having 6 connection prongs like is I asked about earlier. I did know what was needed, however like Grossgary I was not using the "correct" terms. I was asking Grossgary how he set his up, not "what's a switch? DUH?"The diagram provided by skip was perfect and answered my question. Much more useful than your naysaying and condescension Grossgary siad he didnt know the proper terms, i was showing him. Also others do read these posts and dont know the terms either. there is more then one person on this thread, next time i will make sure that i adress the other people. If you are offended by my trying to teach others what the terms are i am sorry, it was not meant not be condescending. Also this is a board, where communictaions are flat, not three dimmmensional like in real life, so dont assume i was trying to be condescending. Grossgary said he didnt know the terms, not you. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 this was my fault, i wasn't explaining it right. it is so simple that i was trying to convince you to just go look. had you went to the store and looked at a switch of the type posted above it would have clarified everything just like that picture did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 this was my fault, i wasn't explaining it right. it is so simple that i was trying to convince you to just go look. had you went to the store and looked at a switch of the type posted above it would have clarified everything just like that picture did. It's 5 degrees outside. So going to the store was not the most appealing idea. And I work all day so I don't even know if I could get to my local electronics store. I gave up on Radio Shack cause they hire kids that could be my kids! and I'm only 30! We have a great electronics store here in town and now that I know what I need i will be in there soon. Thanks for the help! And sorry to nipper for takin that so bad, I hadn't had my coffee yet. Coffee:headbang: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 Hey! new thought! I've been going through the FSM. It says that the duty solenoid C gets a "pulse wave modulation" at 50Hz. This controls the Duty Ratio from 5% to 95%. When we do the simple switch mod and interupt the circuit, obviously that means the solenoid has a 0% ratio, and never opens the drain for the pilot pressure. If a controller or just a simple fixed value cicuit could be fitted to send only a 5% duty ratio signal to the solenoid it would provide the maximum torque the transfer clutch is made to take. And allow the drain to be opened juuust slightly so that pressure does not exceed what it would under normal operation. I put up a post on Electro-tech-online.com(another forum) asking about how to go about generating this signal. Could this be a solution to the "you'll F-up your Tranny with that switch" problem? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 Hey! new thought! I've been going through the FSM. It says that the duty solenoid C gets a "pulse wave modulation" at 50Hz. This controls the Duty Ratio from 5% to 95%. When we do the simple switch mod and interupt the circuit, obviously that means the solenoid has a 0% ratio, and never opens the drain for the pilot pressure. If a controller or just a simple fixed value cicuit could be fitted to send only a 5% duty ratio signal to the solenoid it would provide the maximum torque the transfer clutch is made to take. And allow the drain to be opened juuust slightly so that pressure does not exceed what it would under normal operation. I put up a post on Electro-tech-online.com(another forum) asking about how to go about generating this signal. Could this be a solution to the "you'll F-up your Tranny with that switch" problem? EUREKA! that will do it. That little bit of pressure bleed off would allow for the clutches to slip and not tear themselves up. Now to go one step better, how about a circuit (this is where i know nothing) that can read the pulses off the back of the spedo (two wires feed the spedo) and can automatically reset the circuit to normal mode at a preset speed, set with maybe a pot by the operator (or 20mph). nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 EUREKA! that will do it. That little bit of pressure bleed off would allow for the clutches to slip and not tear themselves up. Now to go one step better, how about a circuit (this is where i know nothing) that can read the pulses off the back of the spedo (two wires feed the spedo) and can automatically reset the circuit to normal mode at a preset speed, set with maybe a pot by the operator (or 20mph). nipper I'm just trying to figure out the controller but you can always get more complex if you want Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 I'm just trying to figure out the controller but you can always get more complex if you want not me i can do things down to the board level, and some very basic simple electronic circuits. wait for me to do it and i guarentee you nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 Could this be a solution to the "you'll F-up your Tranny with that switch" problem? you're going in circles, this is the same issue that has been addressed time and time again. there can't be a solution to something that isn't a problem. all of the "you'll screw up your trans" responses are from people that have not done the mod. in another thread (or this one, i can't recall?) i asked for anyone to please post that has actually had a trans issue that wasn't user related. no response and no response on here either. build any controller you want, but people will still argue that anything but the stock TCU is the only way to not destroy your transmission. and it is to the extent that it eliminates some possibilities of user error. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 nipper suggests differently: First off people have posted and responded when you have said prove the failure (three come to mind and i dont think one of them is still on the board) . i respond with a link, where like i said, no response: have yet to see a person mention any actual failures. i did a search for "duty solenoid" and the second thread that pops up (after this one), is the popular thread, that i was speaking of, with much exposure that i asked multiple times for one person that had issues and not one person responded with a non-mistake related issue: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65716&page=6&highlight=duty+solenoid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 nipper says i'm lying, falsificating, or leading people astray: grossgary i never said that. i also have applauded you for having the only one that works, so thats just plain not fair. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 grossgary i never said that. i also have applauded you for having the only one that works, so thats just plain not fair. nipper Mine works as is. But I still don't like the idea of there being no drain action on the pilot valve. The Transfer clutch valve, which is inline after the pilot valve has it's own drain though. so if too much pressure comes through the pilot valve, it will be drained by the transfer valve. So the only component I can see being at risk is the transfer valve and it's spring. Still I want to make the 5% duty cycle controller and wire it into the switch. I also am going to run the interupt switch to a resitor to fool the computer into thinking the Solenoid is still there so no flashing power light when I start up in the morning! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 grossgary i never said that. i also have applauded you for having the only one that works, so thats just plain not fair. okay i edited my post...but you did say that "people have responded" right after i said "they didn't". that's suggestive of being misleading, it doesn't matter, it just gets confusing when it's dead wrong information floating around all over multiple threads....including this: you said twice "you have the only one that works". that is completely not true. you know for a fact that someone else on here has one with resistors and gizmo's in it to prevent the CEL from coming on, yo'uve conversed with that guy....i don't get it, am i confused? and...dima has one, thunder has one, (and like me they have had theirs for years like myself, they didn't just recently jump on the bandwagon on this one) and others that i can not recall....how can you repeatedly keep saying i'm the only one? over and over i'm trying to dispel the same incorrect information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 i looked through 20 pages of posts anf found only three people with the switch. Two of witch. had failed awd systems (ill look more as i get bored). i find it interesting only three people have the switch on the list (i searched under "switch") Andyjo was one, but couldnt tell which came first the chicken or the egg. I'm at the point where i dont care anymore. I just want people to know that if they screw up its a 1000.00 repair. I may put this on my "topics i dont respond to list" along with "synthetic oil" as they seem to get hostile after a while. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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