Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Recommended Posts

Hello all, yes it is a 1995 Legacy sedan. Now all I'm used to are the 1.8 Liter standard shift models so, this is all Greek to me.

I did have a look see at it last weekend and from what I saw it looked pretty good. It has a 2.2 Liter engine, automatic transmission and I think it is an all wheel drive. Which brings me to my first question: Why is there a empty fuse holder up near the front right firewall? From what I've read in the archives this fuse needs to be out. If its in the car is in front wheel drive only??? The previous owner had some work done on the transmission in 2005. The receipt says it had a valve assembly replaced, oil seal, gaskets, filter kit and 6 quarts of ATF. So maybe it will be good for a while, who knows?

From what the other repair receipts say, it looks like he kept the maintenance up pretty well. Overall the car looks good for the year. It has a few spots here and there. Tires are good, interior is great,motor is nice and quiet, and it shifts great.And for a Subaru, the oil leakage is minimal. At a price of $1900, I don't see how she could go wrong.

Oh, I almost forgot, it has 137K on the clock but, I feel it should be good for another 100K.

So what do you Subaru gurus think? Would this make decent car for a nearly graduated college student?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Empty fuse holder is good. Thats the FWD fuse. You use a spare fuse in that slot when you have to run on the spare tire. The fact that its not there means the AWD is working.

The bill states that the AWD unit was at the least serviced, if not rebuilt (If the bill is around 800.00 it was rebuilt).

 

Make sure the tires all match

Next do figure 8's with the car. The car should make this manuver with no throttle or very little htrottle applied. If it does this in a smooth motion then its fine.

 

Only other thing is to see when the timing belt was changed, otherwise it sounds fine.

 

 

nipper

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't want to highjack this thread, but if a if a brief diversion is permissible Nipper could you outline the reasoning behind this: "You use a spare fuse in that slot when you have to run on the spare tire."?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't want to highjack this thread, but if a if a brief diversion is permissible Nipper could you outline the reasoning behind this: "You use a spare fuse in that slot when you have to run on the spare tire."?

 

Sure..

 

The spare tire is not the same size as the other tires (odds are its also a donout and not a real tire).

The fastest way to kill ANY AWD system is to have a tire that does not match the others. This makes the clutch pack contstantly "slip" instead of slipping just on turns like it should. This wipes out the clutches.

NOw in the manual, it seems it can tolerate driving on the factory spare, but not an underinflated tire. The manual AWD system will die a very fast death you drive on a flat or underinflated tire for any length of time.

 

You can also use the fuse if you have a AWD issue (like torquebind). If the cause of the TB is electrical, the fuse wont help.

 

nipper

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That sounds like a great deal to me, I'd be all over that if I needed a car.

 

As for the FWD fuse, if you lose a tire and have to run on the compact spare, inserting the FWD fuse and running the car in front drive (and putting a full-size rear tire on the front if it was a front tire that deflated) will take unnecessary stress off the rear differentia, which otherwise would have to compensate for the difference in diameters of the tires and wheels.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sounds good to me. these engines are excellent for reliability. 95 is a really nice year for the 2.2. make sure the timing belt is up to date on replacement (60,000 mile belt). if you want another 100,000 miles i'd also plan on replacing the water pump and thermostat now or at least at the next timing belt change.

 

on the thermostat, PCV and spark plug wires, use Subaru only parts for those. don't use aftermarket spark plug wires, Subaru only or Magnecor (my personal favorite) is the only acceptable alternative in my book. keep your tires matching. these transmissions are very reliable, i'd suspect mismatching tires, vehicle improperly towed or something else probably initiated that rebuild. obviously i could be wrong, but these transmissions rarely require valve body work, particularly at that mileage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey thanks for the info. Yes, she wants out of the Buick Century she is running right now and I can't blame her. It has been quite a bit of problems for her but, she almost got through college with it. It sounds good for the transmission outlook, the bill was over $600. I think I'll give her my approval as well. Especially after reading some of you guy's positive comments. I guess she has seen how well the Subarus that I've always run have held up and figured she would jump in also. I warned her though, once your hooked you may never go back......... Its kind of like an addiction. Thanks, Toni.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my first reaction to your 'invoice' for the trans was that the AWD duty c solenoid valve asembly had been replaced. the items nneded sound like what you listed for that job, valve aasem, gasket, gasket, etc. posting part numbers would / could confirm this. but i tend to lean toward this explanation because that's the work i've had done. there are several valve assemb in the trans. but the AWD one is a fairly common repair.

 

good luck with the car i hope she likes it.

 

Hey thanks for the info. Yes, she wants out of the Buick Century she is running right now and I can't blame her. It has been quite a bit of problems for her but, she almost got through college with it. It sounds good for the transmission outlook, the bill was over $600. I think I'll give her my approval as well. Especially after reading some of you guy's positive comments. I guess she has seen how well the Subarus that I've always run have held up and figured she would jump in also. I warned her though, once your hooked you may never go back......... Its kind of like an addiction. Thanks, Toni.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The part number was 2AA090 for the valve assembly. The oil seal was 35210. The gaskets were 4AA071 and 7AA120. The price on the valve assembly was $94.12. It was just done also at 135,277 miles. This should narrow it down some. Toni.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking at my bill for the full rebuild, what was done was a Duty C solenoid repair, where the replaced the valve housing. Thats a very good thing, that means that the AWD should give her many trouble free miles.

 

nipper

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...