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yo all. I am so tempted to throw this up in older gen cause ive had so much help there, but i guess i'll repect the site rules.

 

so, we got a 22r swapped into my buds 84 toy truck. i have fuel and spark, but it wont fire, or even pretend to. it goes rr,rr,rr,rr, poof. Poof being what seems to be a white cloud of fuel blowing out the carb. very consistent. four cranks then poof. I am not good at diagnosis, and i really want this truck to run so it'll get the FLOCK out of the way of my garage. so, any suggestions?

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I'm no carb expert....so my assistance is limited.

 

BUT, I suspect your problem is similar to my initial problems with my EJ22 swap (just for different reasons).

 

I was getting spark....just not at the right time. like stngllhm said, check and double check your spark plug wires, and be sure you've got the disty set right.

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If the rotor is off, it's because the distributor is off, since those are keyed to only go on one way. I made the same mistake when I rebuilt a 20R in a Celica. I had the Distributor 180 out.

 

Like the others said, though, check the firing order first. All of the distributor caps that I ever used for my 20R had numbers on them so you can't go wrong on the order.

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I'm back again with the exact same vehicle, same problem, so i thought i'd just dredge up the old post. ( maybe it should be moved to the non sube section tho') .

 

ive just TDC' ed the #1 cylinder again, disty is in pointing at #1 on the cap, firing order is checked (1342), plug wires are in their proper places, and its still blasting fuel/air mix out the carb intermitently when i turn it over.

 

background - we swapped a 2wd engine into this 4wd truck a long time ago, and it hasnt run since. ( i stopped caring when we pushed it to the side of the garage - i didnt feel like doing the work on someone elses truck... but now theres money involved :grin: )

 

i noticed that there was qite a bit of lag between my turning the crankshaft, and the rotor starting to move.

 

any toyota masters out there?

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My 22R likes to adjust the valves all by itself and keep them from closing all the way. I would check the valve clearances.

 

That and the timing chain may have slipped... check that as well.

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Did you check the shiny thing on the front. No, the very front. Yeah, it's kinda on the grille, up by the drivers headlight... and usually there's another big one on the tailgate, and sometimes there's a couple of them inside the cab, on the fenders, maybe on the center of the wheels, and one last one right on top of the valve cover.

 

Yup. That's your problem.:Flame:

 

 

Sorry, it was just too easy. :grin:

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Sounds like your 180 out. The dist is pointing at #! the engine is tdc but its on the exhaust stroke. Turn the motor 360 the rotor should be 180 from #1 remove the dist point the rotor at #! insert dist and fire her up!

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"Sounds like your 180 out. The dist is pointing at #! the engine is tdc but its on the exhaust stroke. Turn the motor 360 the rotor should be 180 from #1 remove the dist point the rotor at #! insert dist and fire her up!"

 

 

And the 'penetrating the cement skull' award goes to.... SECREWBARU! I AM A REETARD! How many times have i been told that? i am ashamed to think about it. I must just have blind luck with the sube disty because i've NEVER done that with it before, and i've had it in and out prolly 15 times when i did my spfi swap.

 

lesson learned i guess. Its sad to think that i'm the smart one about cars around here :eek:

 

At least i've got a toyota fsm now... thanks for the link 'junkie .

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Glad to help out. This has happened to me more times than'd like to admit.

You had a 50/50 chance of geting it right, you would have gotten it eventually.:banana: :banana: :clap:

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Glad it's fixed (although I told you it was 180 out a year ago :D

 

Contrats to screwbaru for penatrating the thick skull!

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"although I told you it was 180 out a year ago " dude... i know man, i just didnt understand the concept...

 

and like i said, i wasnt super motivated to figure it out because it wasnt my vehicle. Unfortunately, my friend didnt put any oil in the case and it sat the whole year like that. After fixing a hole in the rad, i put oil in it (not in the rad :-p ), started it and warmed it up to burp the rad, set idle, set timing, etc. Well, i'm guessing the front main seal dried out, because it started leaking oil from behind the crank pulley really bad, so now I'll have to get in there and see whats happening. I hope there arent any other lingering side effects from sitting with no oil for so long.

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Just busting your shoes. Glad you got it to fire up. Those 20R/22R blocks are tanks. Make sure the seals are good, put fresh oil in it and fire it up. I recall springing a leak and running my 20R 4 quarts low on the highway (5 quart capacity with the large filter in place) and it only got a little warm. Never had any lasting effects from that. God, I miss that car. One of those "never should have gotten rid of it" deals.

 

If you take the front end apart to replace the front seal at the oil pump, DON'T overtighten that large bolt in the center of the water pump. It snaps easily (not that I know from experience or anything :mad:). There is also one bolt down through the front of the head into the timing cover. I always forgot about that one when tearing into the thing.:banghead:

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i didnt like the toyota setup at first but now that i've done some stuff to it it's grown on me. The inline engine makes for easy access to most things ( although i dont like where the alternator sits). I did do the front main seal but all i had to do was pull the rad and then the crankshaft pulley, i didnt have to touch any of the timing cover bolts thank god. So yeah the new seal fixed the leak. We drove it around town a bit, got rid of all the accumulated cardboard in the box :grin: , and she seems to be all good. only thing now is that my timing light doesnt seem to work on it for some reason, but thats minor. Now its beer time :headbang:

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