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My poor Sube wont start!!

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Hello all!


Wow, cool forum... been awhile since I've been around <no net access> It sure was a surprise to be redirected here!


Anywho, my Wagon's got a very annoying problem...


In short, i guess since the weather is cold, she wont start. :cornfuzz:


She's an SPFI.


Here's what I've done so far:


New cap, rotor, plugs, wires. The contacts between the rotor and cap are clean. Two different coils, one original, one accel super stock. Two different coil modules, one original, one from a running Sube. Tested for spark at each plug. Compression is good all around. Fuel pressure good, fuel pump operating, injector is pulsing, fuel in the tank, lines are not frozen <not cold enought yet for that anyway> Distributor rotor is turning, timing belts are not "off" and are not broken. The check engine light is not on. The vehicle has sat since this morning when it started then stalled, and i used a little quick start, the plugs are clean, so i rule out flooding....:banghead::cornfuzz:


She was running great yesterday... what in the world happened?:confused:


Any thoughts or input GREATLY appreciated....

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Nomad, this time of year it is pretty important that the ECU knows the engine is cold.

Sounds like the FI coolant thermosensor is knackered.

On the goose neck (upper rad hose fitting) there are two coolant sensors, one for the dash gauge and one for the FI system.

The one you are concerned with has a wired "pigtail" the other is a straight spade connection.

You could try cleaning it's connector, but testing it is better.

I have a chart of the resistance values from an 89 FSM.

Email me if you need them.

Hope this helps

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Hi there!


Okay... on the advice of a Subaru techie, I changed the coolant thermosensor <BRAND new OEM $90!!> , BUT it seems to be in a different location than the one you described....


The one i changed, was right near the throttlebody, and yup it had a wired pigtail...it just looks like a threaded hunk o' brass, like a bolt with wires on the head of it.


Unfortunately, this did not cure the problem.:banghead:


Did I change the wrong one? I was assured that this one was "not for the guage, but for the computer".:cornfuzz:


Any thoughts?


BTW, you guys rock! Thanks for the help!:headbang:

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are you sure that the wires are in the right order and that the rotor is in the right position, that could keep the engine from starting, if you changed a whole bunch of stuff its probably somthing of that nature, make sure that the three wires that go to the coil are on good and tight and that they are on the correct side.

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yep, all that is in order...


All the stuff listed, I did literally one item at a time. 'specially with plug wires, I never rip everything apart at once, cos then putting back together, anything can happen...


At any rate, a local mechanic recommended changing the coil, as he mentioned a yellow spark isnt the most healthy. Funny thing is, the coil that was in there is an Accel super stock thats only got 20,000 kms on it<i put that on new>... and the coil(s) i put in seem to give the same spark strength visually.. !?


Guys, i really appreciate your help, and your patience...this has been confounding me. I am by no means an "expert" mechanic, but I've looked at everything I know how to and then some.


I'm very frustrated. My Sube's never given me trouble like this.


I don't have auto seatbelts, so that relay thing isn't an issue...I read that in an archived post somewhere.


The fuel flow is strong as I crank, I've actually pulled the fuel line after the filter and the damn thing sprayed halfway across my driveway (instead of into the bucket :D)




I'm gonna give another check on the plugs and wires, just to be sure.


Thanks, all

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the yellow spark tells me you ig amp may be toast.

This devise is located on the coil bracket under the coil. It relys on the bracket being grounded as it is only a power transistor.

They do not go bad very often so a boneyard coil bracket will fix it,if it is indeed the problem.

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Once in a while my four door that I sold to my bro Volcom_Don would act up and give me the same sort of trouble. the way I cured it was to give it a small hit of starting fluid near the maf sesor and then proceed by taking off the disty cap and givin it a healthy hit of starting fluid as well. I would also turn the disty cap back and forth as though I was adjusting the ignition timing and crank. Move it a little more and then crank. When It finally started I jumped out the car and put the timing back the way it was and tightened down the bolt and was on my way. Good luck with it

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