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anybody ever seen all the warning lights that stay on? this is an XT6 but other models may relate. I know the break fluid isn't low, the rest I haven't had time to check out, but that one makes me suspicious it's a system problem like a ground fault or short.

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thanks, I was just reading one of related threads at the bottom. I'll have the alt checked out tonight then look at the ground cluster if needed. I was wondering about the alt anyway since the plastic around the terminal where the white wires attach is kind of melted and bubbly. the previous owners really toasted the electrics.

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thanks, I was just reading one of related threads at the bottom. I'll have the alt checked out tonight then look at the ground cluster if needed. I was wondering about the alt anyway since the plastic around the terminal where the white wires attach is kind of melted and bubbly. the previous owners really toasted the electrics.

 

That would do it. You probably need to replace that pigtail too. Anytime a wire is cooked its no longer safe to use.

 

 

nipper

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That would do it. You probably need to replace that pigtail too. Anytime a wire is cooked its no longer safe to use.

 

 

nipper

+1, maybe if youre feeling adventurous just go to a junkyard, get an alt out of a 86-89 nissan maxima, cut the plug that goes to it, bring the alt and your old alt to an electrical shop and see if they can match the pulley on the maxima alt to the pulley on the soob alt.

 

They are both Hitachi alternators, and the nissan is 90 amp instead of the soobie at 60 or 70 amp (i think 60.) You replace your plug AND upgrade your alt. If not, the T-plug should be available at any parts store in the HELP! section.

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they already (tried) to do that. thats part of the mess I've been sorting out with cougar in the ignition problem thread over the weekend. spliced in a new fusable link box and had the wrong amp fusable links in the ignition black not green and cooked the ECU. thats all sorted out (I hope, at least starting and running right) now I can see what else they messed up.

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they already (tried) to do that. thats part of the mess I've been sorting out with cougar in the ignition problem thread over the weekend. spliced in a new fusable link box and had the wrong amp fusable links in the ignition black not green and cooked the ECU. thats all sorted out (I hope, at least starting and running right) now I can see what else they messed up.

 

Tried to retrofit a bigger alternator??? regardless, it should still be a simple straight swap.. but I can understand your reluctance to go that route, heh... I only mentioned it because its a different plug on the alt, and since you had to replace your stock T plug anyhow... you get my point?

 

Replace the plug before the alternator, or bring the alt in to test it when you buy the plug. There is a good chance that the plug is the main problem.

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alternator's toast :Flame: I havent seen a swap for an XT6 to put anything else in there. I don't know if the GM swap I read in here could be further modified to fit the XT6 mounts or not. confused: the electrics would be easy enough, but there would be the mount issue and it runs a serpentine belt not a V. I might play with it though one of these days. too bad the salvage yard is closed I could go poke around and see what's there,maybe tomorrow. I know there aren't any XT6s anywhere around here.

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I saw the post on the reverse, putting an XT6 alt in an EJ, but nothing on the other way around, I'm not sure of all the differences, I don't think the EJ alts are fan cooled like the XT6 are but they would be cheaper and easier to find. then there's the serpentine belt pully issue. Mike thanks for the post with the service manuals, someone showed me the link but it looks like it's from you. been trying to find XT6 manual for more than a week since I got it.

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daeron sorry- no I missed the bigger alt part of your message, just the mess they made of the electrics, I have no problem trying to upgrade if the parts fit, or can be made to fit :grin: what fun is life with out a little experimentation here and there. are the bodies on the maxima alts similar to the soobs or do they need modification? or would you just swap the internals? if the bodies are the same I'm going hunting tomorrow at the salvage yard!

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No, my friend.. it is *I* who owe YOU an apology..

 

I totally forgot you were talking about an XT6; you already HAVE a 90 amp alt! In fact, IIRC it looks remarkably similar to the Maxima alternator.

 

90% of the hitachi built alternators I have seen (which means most any Nissan or Subaru, and many other japanese cars) have been directly swappable, as far as ear sizes and locations. The physical size of the alternator is your only issue.

 

You have a V-belt setup, or a serpentine?? I thought serpentine, and if so, then the maxima alt seriously should be nothing more than a swapping of the plugs. Its easy; there is one big wire and one little wire in the T plug, and the same goes for any IR hitachi alt. Just connect the big wires together, and the little wires, bolt it in, tighten it up, and you are golden.

 

Maximas are ALOT easier to find than XT6s. HOWEVER, I HAVE to say that when I did this reasearch, I had to confirm it by pulling an alt from a maxima, and going to a GL in the junkyard and "installing" it in that car just to be positive of the fit. I will try to dig the box that the alt is sitting in right now out and get some outside measurements on it. it is NOT externally fan cooled, it has a cage-like casing to it and it may have an internal fan but I haven't taken it apart yet.

 

I got the thing primarily for my Datsun 280Z; ever since I got my soob I had been thinking that the alternator looked identical to the datsun alt, and I was right; the only difference was in the clock position, and I have gotten a few alternators with differing "clock" orientations for my datsun; it makes no difference. They all have the single ear on the front, and then ~180 degrees opposite that, they have the two ears for the pivot bolt.

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sweet! it's salvage yard tonight :lol: I measured the distance of the tabs so I should be able to figere out if one of the other vehicles will fit. the one out of my soob has the mitsubishi tripple diamond cast into it so I might check those too. I thought they were made by hitachi too, maybe one is owned by the other, like subaru being part of fuji. ant way thanks this might save some time and money.

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the distance on the ears isnt really hyper critical, since i cannot recall seeing anything close enough to be mistaken, that was NOT the same. The critical measurements will be the diameter of the body of the alt, and the depth of the body of the alt.... By all means, confirm the ear spacing and positioning, but the other two measurements are the critical ones.

 

I haven't seen or heard of the maxima alt in an XT6 yet; you MAY encounter problems. I was able to overcome them easily enough, though.. I made a daylong project out of it once. In the wee hours of hte morning i spent about two hours hunting thru rockauto.com looking for vehicles that had hi amp alts, that MAY be compatible.. and then went to boneyard to pull and try. the BMWs didnt work, (100 amps, aww shucks) and the nissan was my second try at 90 amps, and it DID work.

 

As I said, I did this all after I realized 100% that the alt bodies on my soob and on my datsun were identical.... (the internals on the soob vs datsun unit arent the same, mines a 50 amp external regulated datsun alt versus the soobie IR at 60 or 70)

 

SOMEtimes the ears get worn or wobbled, and a rebuilder presses in a bushing to "locate" it on the vehicle properly.. just a heads up, this sort of press fit can be "tightened" or "loosened" as needed.

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I like using an oversized bolt (longer, not thicker) on the threaded ear, and spinning a nut and lockwasher on behind the threaded aluminum bit. The aluminum seems to always fail.

 

If its already helicoiled then whadevah, but a longer bolt with lockwasher and nut work just as well... hold tension on belt while first tighetning down to whatever the aluminum threads will hold; hold tension on belt while torquing down pivot bolt, then go back and lock it in place with the nut on the long bolt.

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mine is at an electrical shop seeing if he can get parts or if , I opened it and it was fried, plastic parts melted, ick. I found 2 in nissans with different cases I've frankensteined together and I just need to make a spacer to allign the pully and should be good to go. I think I'll see if the internals of the second will fit mine. one of the two looked slightly different than the other but I dont remember which is like mine. take it by thee shop tonight and see.

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mine is at an electrical shop seeing if he can get parts or if , I opened it and it was fried, plastic parts melted, ick. I found 2 in nissans with different cases I've frankensteined together and I just need to make a spacer to allign the pully and should be good to go. I think I'll see if the internals of the second will fit mine. one of the two looked slightly different than the other but I dont remember which is like mine. take it by thee shop tonight and see.

 

I wouldn't jigger too much with the internals.. Better to go back to the junkyard with a pipe wrench, a big screwdriver, and a cheater bar and start pulling pulleys off of alts out there. I actually just saw an 88 wagon (i pulled my axle off it :grin:) with an alt that had a one piece pulley rather than the silly two piece affair with spacer ring that I presume you have (since thats what most of the V belt pulleys are)

 

Anyhow, sounds like you have the situation under control. Absurdly simple, isnt it? Gotta love the japanese!!

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you got a ride and your axle awesome! I kept the internals the same just changed the aluminum cage on the front to a 180 degre instead of the one that was there. I'll try to find a better pully but who knows how long that would take. I was just going to make something for now to try it out till I can. they're a *************** to get off too, maybe with an impact wrench?

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