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Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...


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Or... I could buy one from the dealership. Just called them, they are still available! WOOT! Should be here saturday :banana:

 

I'd get 2. what are the chances of finding a 41 year old part still available from the dealer!

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FUuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu

 

Now that my washers arrived (thanks again Mark) I went to bolt on the flywheel, but now I realize I'm MISSING two bolts for the flywheel because the 1100 only had 6 bolts and I never got bolts for this 1400 flywheel!

 

The worst part? Its a 9mm x 1.00 pitch bolt, which apparently nobody carries :mad:

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Well, I know I have the bolts, as I removed them to get you the washers. If you can wait, I can gather a few up and send them out, only this time I will let the post office weight them to determine postage, so it won't take a week to get there. :mad:

 

Mark

Let me see if I can find something locally first. I'd REALLY like to get the drivetrain installed this weekend, but if I can't, I guess I'll have to use those.

 

BTW, what size are the bolts? IE bolt head size.

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I double checked my "custom" clutch disc, its the same thickness as the factory new one I have, so thats not a problem. But for some reason when I disengage the clutch, everything still spins. This is while the drivetrain is off the car.

 

I double checked the clutch fork, its fine. The thing I'm concerned with is the clutch pressure plate seems too compress a lot when installed. Is it supposed to do that? How far should the pressure plate "leaves" go down when its installed?

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if the clutch disc is the same thickness, and the pressure plates are the same, then you might not have enough pressure on the clutch fork to disengage if it's still spinning the trans stubs.

 

trying to disengage the clutch while spinning the crank would be a difficult job for one person, so I assume you have someone helping?

 

does trans in nuetral stop the spinning....? (should)

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Neutral doesn't spin, 1rst gear spins, reverse spins.

 

Right now, I've taken the bellhousing off and I'm testing all my configurations of flywheels and bellhousings to see if there is a clearance difference, and there does appear to be one...

 

I'm going to try one more thing, which is using the modified bellhousing that is about 3mm shorter than the one I had on the car (the 1400) and see if maybe it gets more pressure from the clutch fork. From my measurements, the throwout bearing had about 1cm before it comes into contact with the pressure plate springs, I don't know if that is correct or not.

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Alright, I installed the modified bellhousing and that extra 3mm made a difference. I tested it out, and the clutch does disengage now when you pull the fork back really hard (before I pulled it back full strength and absolutely nothing happened).

 

I installed the 1100 bellhousing and set the 1100 flywheel on there (cant bolt it down cause of the bolt patten) and instantly could tell for some reason the 1400 flywheel and bellhousing has the flywheel sitting more "recessed" into the bellhousing. So I checked the other modified bellhousing, and it almost matched up to the 1100 (not perfect, but within a mm or so).

 

Its as good as its going to get now for sure...

 

So the question is, who wants to help me install the drivetrain? :grin:

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Great work, you must feel it is getting closer to finished now.

A bit closer yes, but the amount of problems that constantly pop up and have to be solved slows everything down...

 

For example, I just discovered the air box I bought doesn't clear the hood :-\

 

This means I have to ditch the velocity stacks under it too since even with JUST those on, they are only like 1/2" from the hood...

 

Small problems like that keep stacking up. I still have to build a rear transmission mount as well, but that might not be TOO difficult if I do it right.

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