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Kostamojen

Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...

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:-\

 

wiringmess.jpg

 

I suck at wiring.

 

I managed to get the rear harness (tail lights, etc.) mostly complete exept the license plate light and I got the wiring for the hood blinkers in place excluding the horns. I also got the MSD wiring to the disty and coil pack setup and connected.

 

Things I have to subtract from the harness:

 

Distributor wires and coil wires (going to go through the MSD ignition)

Voltage regulator (Alternator has internal regulator supposedly)

Dome light, door switches and buzzer are not being re-used.

Radio/speaker wiring.

 

Things I have to add to the harness:

 

Hella horns and whatever they need.

MSD ignition and its connections.

Tachometer (not sure how or if the factory type tach can be wired to work with the MSD ignition)

New and improved cig lighters (actually just power sockets, but there are two now instead of just 1)

 

I'm sure I'll remember something else later, but ya, I'm ready for some help with this.

Edited by Kostamojen

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You have done such beautiful work with the rest of the restoration no doubt you will do just as well with this. I'm sure someone will help if needed. Refer to diagrams if available, or make your own and just take your time - one circuit at a time.

 

Looks like you are off to a good start:)

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Sadly, I don't understand wiring... Other than plugging something back in or possibly replacing a connection or two, I can't figure things out very well.

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Wish I lived closer to you....I'd happily come over for an afternoon and wire the car for ya. I'm sure in person it would only take me a few hours. I've done much more complicated harnesses in less.

 

 

The tach should be as easy as connecting the signal wire. AFAIK, the stock system just gets a signal from the ground side of the coil, so that shouldn't change.

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The tach should be as easy as connecting the signal wire. AFAIK, the stock system just gets a signal from the ground side of the coil, so that shouldn't change.

The MSD 6AL has a special port for a tach signal. It does mention that some tachs require some sort of special extra thingie, which I'm not sure about when using the OEM tach.

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The MSD 6AL has a special port for a tach signal. It does mention that some tachs require some sort of special extra thingie, which I'm not sure about when using the OEM tach.

 

Probably to change the signal from a 4/8 cylinder engine to a 6 cylinder engine. I can't remember what the add on does exactly but I think it changes the pulse the tach gets...

 

Oh and take your time. All you really need to do is label where all of the original plugs went, cut out the bit that you don't need, add in the couple of wires you will need and you're done. For the horns I recommend running the power wire from the original horns to a relay and run the Hellas off of a larger power from the relay.

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For the horns I recommend running the power wire from the original horns to a relay and run the Hellas off of a larger power from the relay.

That entire sentence went right over my head :-\

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If you want a really good site that will teach you the basics to how the 12+ volt systems works, check out:

 

http://www.bcae1.com/

 

If you scroll down on the right hand side of the page a little ways, there is a relay topic that covers what relays are and how they work.

 

The rest of the site is full of very, very good, easy to follow information. I studied this site intensively for a few weeks when I was first getting my teeth wet with the electronic side of things, and found that site to be extremely useful. Hope it helps! If I was closer I would be there in a heart beat to get this fantastic car running!

 

Oh, and this whole build is just freakin' fantastic! The car is absolutely GORGEOUS! :slobber::slobber: Really can't wait to see it done! :)

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Not that hard to do with an extra pair of hands. Basically, place the rubber around the glass, place a small rope in the channel where it will seal to the body, place the glass on the car, have somebody hold the glass down while the person on the inside slowly pulls the rope, pulling the seal inside the car. That said, most mobile glass shops will install them for a small fee, saving you the work.

 

Mark

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I've got the rope in, but after that I'm having difficulty. Do I start with the top or bottom installed first or something inbetween?

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Glass is installed :)

 

frontwindow1.jpg

frontwindow2.jpg

rearwindow1.jpg

rearwindow2.jpg

 

The front molding has issues but its solid and fits. The rear molding is in perfect shape so no issues there.

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I'm not doing liner like the original interior. The bare metal looks good in several spots that used to be lined, no reason to ruin that.

 

I will have a panel in the roof though.

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I'm trying to decide on what to do about a radiator. Right now from my measurements, it looks like my best option might be a stock 70's radiator. Does anyone have a lead on a new one for not too much money?

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Ah, he does have one on Ebay doesn't he. Its an automatic one though... That concerns me about plugging up the AT cooler lines.

 

Also, I was just reading about the "duel core" upgrade for some later models. Worth looking into?

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After doing some more ressearch, it appears the radiators changed dimensions at some point.

 

As it stands, I only have a 27" x 13" space to work with. If its any taller than 13" total, I can't use it (unless its narrower than 21", which then it would need to be no more than 16" tall)

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I've been looking up universal fit radiators online, not finding anything close so far. The biggest issue seems to be not many radiators are so short and so long but so narrow with such small inlet/outlet ports. Not to mention most of these are $300+ :-\

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