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1996 OBW- A/T light flashing

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Hey guys....new here.

 

Where are the TCU and the ECU located?

 

I'm having severe shift shock in my Forester and wanted to see if I could just clean out the main connectors. Thanks!

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Hey guys....new here.

 

Where are the TCU and the ECU located?

 

I'm having severe shift shock in my Forester and wanted to see if I could just clean out the main connectors. Thanks!

 

That wont do it, your better off chaining the fluid, it usually helps alot.

 

nipper

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this is the approach you want:

That wont do it, your better off chaining the fluid, it usually helps alot.

for giggles the TCU should be located above your feet, behind the dash/steering wheel sort of. it's bolted in a hanging style, bolts up at the top and the TCU hangs down.

 

ECU is located under the passengers side carpet, up towards the front of the car. pull the carpet back, starting up front, then remove the metal plate underneath. that's the ECU.

 

i'm doubtful those will solve your problem though.

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Hey guys....new here.

 

Where are the TCU and the ECU located?

 

I'm having severe shift shock in my Forester and wanted to see if I could just clean out the main connectors. Thanks!

 

year, make, model, miles????

 

how long have you had the car? is the shift shock new or different than it has been? other history?

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year, make, model, miles????

 

how long have you had the car? is the shift shock new or different than it has been? other history?

 

 

Thanks for replying so quickly. Here's all of the issues that have happened.

But first:

 

2001 Subaru Forester L

110,000 miles

Great shape before:

 

My "friend" helped me out and changed the spark plugs, the header gaskets, and timing belt. Well, when he did the timing belt, he timed it wrong and some valves in the engine bent.

So he took the engine out, replaced the valves, timed the Forester correctly, and put the engine back in.

At the same time, a CV boot was torn, so he replaced that as well.

I'm not sure exactly what he did, but it runs now. But the problems are:

 

It shifts into gear REALLY hard. Shockingly hard.

The A/T Oil Temp light flashes after driving the car for about 5 minutes.

When it flashes, there are no long flashes, just continuous short ones.

And when I try to make a slow, sharp turn, the car minorly jerks, and is not smooth.

 

Thanks for any info I can receive!

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And when I try to make a slow, sharp turn, the car minorly jerks, and is not smooth.

this sounds like torque bind. it will cause a flashing A/T Temp light at start up. it will flash 16 times just after you start the car. do a search and read up on it.

 

2001 Subaru Forester L

110,000 miles

 

It shifts into gear REALLY hard. Shockingly hard.

The A/T Oil Temp light flashes after driving the car for about 5 minutes.

 

this is probably something else, but still elcetronic in the trans. you need to have your trans trouble codes read. this will tell you alot. your problem may be a conector or a bad duty solenoid. it may be in addition to the torque bind (which could be a bad duty 'c' solenoid) or it could be instead of.

 

don't go to a transmission shop, unless oyu know and trust them. either find a way to read the codes yourself, or go to the dealer to have them read. after you find out what the codes are then you can address the problem. be very specific when asking for the codes to be read. you want the codes (numbers) as well as the explanation.

 

there are not many things that have to be done by the dealer, but reading trans codes may be quicker and easier that way.

 

it sound like you are going to have a great car.

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this sounds like torque bind. it will cause a flashing A/T Temp light at start up. it will flash 16 times just after you start the car. do a search and read up on it.

 

Well...the A/T Oil Temp light doesn't flash right after I start the car. It doesn't really start flashing until I drive it for over 5 minutes. And after a couple slams in gear, it begins flashing.

 

this is probably something else, but still elcetronic in the trans. you need to have your trans trouble codes read. this will tell you alot. your problem may be a conector or a bad duty solenoid. it may be in addition to the torque bind (which could be a bad duty 'c' solenoid) or it could be instead of.

 

don't go to a transmission shop, unless oyu know and trust them. either find a way to read the codes yourself, or go to the dealer to have them read. after you find out what the codes are then you can address the problem.

 

there are not many things that have to be done by the dealer, but reading trans codes may be quicker and easier that way.

 

it sound like you are going to have a great car.

 

Do you know how I can read the codes myself? Would it be the OBDII codes or the TCU codes? Or what?

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Do you know how I can read the codes myself? Would it be the OBDII codes or the TCU codes? Or what?

 

it's the TCU codes and from what i've read it's fairly complicated. this is why i suggested the dealer. but if you search and ask some one will tell you how to do it.

 

have you checked the connectors going to the trans? there is a main connector located on or near the top of the trans, passenger side near the fire wall. you might check it, unplug it and look to see if any of the pins are bent. since the TCU wasn't removed, i doubt that the conections there have changed any. check the A/T fluid level, drivers side near the fire wall, yellow dip stick. check it cold first then hot. it can be difficult to read when hot. look at both sides of the dip stick.

 

did the trans run right before the engine was pulled? is the blinking A/T temp light intermittent, does it come and go?

 

as nipper often says, a blinking light is not to be ignored.

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[...]It shifts into gear REALLY hard. Shockingly hard.

The A/T Oil Temp light flashes after driving the car for about 5 minutes.

When it flashes, there are no long flashes, just continuous short ones.

And when I try to make a slow, sharp turn, the car minorly jerks, and is not smooth.[...]

There are several problems that can cause the symptoms you've described. However, if we assume that the trans didn't get damaged while your "friend" worked on the car, one thing that's engine-related and can easily affect the trans is a defective or misadjusted TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). Yes, it can even cause the low speed binding.

 

As has already been suggested, getting the TCU code(s) read is important at this stage -- for example, if a code for the TPS comes back, it will really simplify the repair.

 

Give me a few minutes and I'll post the method of getting the TCU codes without a Select Monitor.

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it's the TCU codes and from what i've read it's fairly complicated. this is why i suggested the dealer. but if you search and ask some one will tell you how to do it.

 

have you checked the connectors going to the trans? there is a main connector located on or near the top of the trans, passenger side near the fire wall. you might check it, unplug it and look to see if any of the pins are bent. since the TCU wasn't removed, i doubt that the conections there have changed any. check the A/T fluid level, drivers side near the fire wall, yellow dip stick. check it cold first then hot. it can be difficult to read when hot. look at both sides of the dip stick.

 

I recently had the tranny fluid flushed and changed. So that "should" be good.

 

did the trans run right before the engine was pulled? is the blinking A/T temp light intermittent, does it come and go?

 

The transmission was great before the engine was pulled. The A/T temp light goes on after driving for 5 minutes, and stays on. Just blinking continuously.

 

as nipper often says, a blinking light is not to be ignored.

 

Yeah...I should get the codes checked. Thanks man!

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There are several problems that can cause the symptoms you've described. However, if we assume that the trans didn't get damaged while your "friend" worked on the car, one thing that's engine-related and can easily affect the trans is a defective or misadjusted TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). Yes, it can even cause the low speed binding.

 

As has already been suggested, getting the TCU code(s) read is important at this stage -- for example, if a code for the TPS comes back, it will really simplify the repair.

 

Give me a few minutes and I'll post the method of getting the TCU codes without a Select Monitor.

 

That would be great help! Thanks!

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Follow the procedure as in the attached chart. The light should blink -- it might be eight times per second, four times per second, or a series of long and short blinks. Make a note of the result, and get back with that info.

post-15889-136027627809_thumb.jpg

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Follow the procedure as in the attached chart. The light should blink -- it might be eight times per second, four times per second, or a series of long and short blinks. Make a note of the result, and get back with that info.

 

 

Okay....4 longs, 5 shorts. So the code is 45.

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Okay....4 longs, 5 shorts. So the code is 45.
Code 45: Intake Manifold Pressure Signal

Diagnosis: Input signal circuit of TCM from ECM is open or shorted

Trouble Symptom: Excessive shift shock

 

However, the first step in the diagnostic procedure for code 45 directs you to the diagnostic for the TPS, which includes the symptom of excessive tight corner "braking".

 

Unfortunately, there's too much to post here. Okay if I send a PM to you with further info, anspaugh777?

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Okay....so here's what I've done so far.

 

 

I've taken off the cover underneath the steering column. I can see the TCM and its connectors, which are 2 big ones. I unplugged them and kind of blew off some dirt.

 

But I noticed to green connectors, NOT wires, but end connectors that look like they fit perfectly together. They weren't connected. Should I connect them? Could that be the problem?

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We posted at almost the same time. See my message #39 above. Back away from the TCM :) .

 

Don't join the green connectors, they're for diagnostics.

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Code 45: Intake Manifold Pressure Signal

Diagnosis: Input signal circuit of TCM from ECM is open or shorted

Trouble Symptom: Excessive shift shock

 

However, the first step in the diagnostic procedure for code 45 directs you to the diagnostic for the TPS, which includes the symptom of excessive tight corner "braking".

 

Unfortunately, there's too much to post here. Okay if I send a PM to you with further info, anspaugh777?

 

Yeah, please PM me with whatever I need to do. Thanks!

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We posted at almost the same time. See my message #39 above. Back away from the TCM :) .

 

Don't join the green connectors, they're for diagnostics.

 

Okay....I'm away from the TCM. Close one.:)

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sounds to me like he didn't plug something back up right when reinstalling the engine. +1 for don't touch the ECU.

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sounds to me like he didn't plug something back up right when reinstalling the engine. +1 for don't touch the ECU.

 

Perhaps the vacuum hose with the *filter* medium on the outside that goes to the Pressure sensor mounted by the airbox???

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Perhaps the vacuum hose with the *filter* medium on the outside that goes to the Pressure sensor mounted by the airbox???

 

Ooh...what do you mean?

 

Would that make the car shift hard?

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If you see anything disconnected (wiring or vacuum hoses), take care of it. Proper vacuum hose connections are usually shown on the emissions label pasted to the bottom of the hood.

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If you see anything disconnected (wiring or vacuum hoses), take care of it. Proper vacuum hose connections are usually shown on the emissions label pasted to the bottom of the hood.

 

i'll check it out

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