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On the ej25 cam cap bolt torque spec from Haines is 4ft lbs.The non subaru mechanic that was helping me with the hgs' thought that seemed low so I called a friend who is a sub. mechanic and he stated subaru calls for 12-15 ftlbs.So I went with the 15ftlbs and 800 mi. later the cam froze in the journal causing the t-belt to jump which knocked everything out of time.I don't believe the valves are bent on either side but the top right cam,cap,and head are junk.Does anybody have the correct spec?Also can you adjust the valves with the head on the bench with the cam installed then dismantle and put it back on the car?

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12 ftlb, i verified with a 1997 FSM.

 

just to make sure, you're talking about the cam cap that holds the cam seal right?

 

are you at all curious why the cam seized or do you know? did it run out of oil? most likely the cam was starved of oil. if it didn't run out or have a major leak i'd suspect something contaminated the oil supply.

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Just glanced at the service manul from a '99 ej25 dohc, it shows two diferent torque values on the caps, 7.2 ftlb for the exhaust and 14.5 ftlb for the intake.

 

I'd still suspect the oil though. Either a leak or contamination.

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Just did the head gaskets on an EJ25, so I had to figure this out too. The Subaru tech manual specifies 18 N.m (= 13.0 foot pounds) for the bolts with Torx heads that attach the cam casing to the cylinder head. The also recommend a specific tightening sequence. To help with this, I uploaded a pdf copy of the relevant section of the Subaru Tech manual to rapidshare (a public file sharing service). You can download this at

 

http://rapidshare.com/files/76884441/Camshaft.pdf

 

Use the "free download" option; this is a four-pager with a file size of about 180 Kb, so this should be small enough to get even if you use 56K dial up. Use adobe acrobat to view/print the file.

 

You can adjust valve clearances before installing the heads; the phase 2 ej25 engines (which is the one I just did) have screw type adjusters. Easy to set with a wrench, screwdriver and feeler gauge. The manual says clearances should be 0.20 mm for the intake and 0.25 mm for the exhaust valves. The older phase 1 ej25s used shims, which are another story - not sure what year engine you have.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

On the ej25 cam cap bolt torque spec from Haines is 4ft lbs.The non subaru mechanic that was helping me with the hgs' thought that seemed low so I called a friend who is a sub. mechanic and he stated subaru calls for 12-15 ftlbs.So I went with the 15ftlbs and 800 mi. later the cam froze in the journal causing the t-belt to jump which knocked everything out of time.I don't believe the valves are bent on either side but the top right cam,cap,and head are junk.Does anybody have the correct spec?Also can you adjust the valves with the head on the bench with the cam installed then dismantle and put it back on the car?

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12 ftlb, i verified with a 1997 FSM.

 

just to make sure, you're talking about the cam cap that holds the cam seal right?

 

are you at all curious why the cam seized or do you know? did it run out of oil? most likely the cam was starved of oil. if it didn't run out or have a major leak i'd suspect something contaminated the oil supply.

 

Yes the cap that holds the seal as well as the other two caps that hold the cam itself.I am curious why. The first thing I checked was the oil level (good),and as clean as it was from the oil change 800 mi. ago.No leaks either.The only thing I can think of is somehow the oil passage got blocked.Some of the other journals on the other cam still had some assembly lube on them.It is a 98 ej25 with buckets and shims not the screw adjuster.

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Just did the head gaskets on an EJ25, so I had to figure this out too. The Subaru tech manual specifies 18 N.m (= 13.0 foot pounds) for the bolts with Torx heads that attach the cam casing to the cylinder head. The also recommend a specific tightening sequence. To help with this, I uploaded a pdf copy of the relevant section of the Subaru Tech manual to rapidshare (a public file sharing service). You can download this at

 

http://rapidshare.com/files/76884441/Camshaft.pdf

 

Use the "free download" option; this is a four-pager with a file size of about 180 Kb, so this should be small enough to get even if you use 56K dial up. Use adobe acrobat to view/print the file.

 

You can adjust valve clearances before installing the heads; the phase 2 ej25 engines (which is the one I just did) have screw type adjusters. Easy to set with a wrench, screwdriver and feeler gauge. The manual says clearances should be 0.20 mm for the intake and 0.25 mm for the exhaust valves. The older phase 1 ej25s used shims, which are another story - not sure what year engine you have.

 

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the file but mine is a 98 with buckets and shims so it must be a phase 1?

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The front cam caps torque spec. is 82-95 INCH Lbs.

The center and rear cam cap torque spec. is 13-16 Ft. Lbs.

 

You will pull the threads on the cylinder head if you torque them to tight.

 

The seized journal could be an oil delivery problem. Possibly to much sealant on oil pump if it was removed and resealed. Excess sealant could have blocked an oil passage.

Maybe oil pump o-ring out of place causeing an internal leak.

 

Was the engine badly over heated prior to head gasket reapair? What was the condition of the cam caps when removed the first time?

 

As far as adjusting the valves on the bench before assembly. I do not recommend it. Yes, you can do it, but the cleaerances will change once the heads are torqued.

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The front cam caps torque spec. is 82-95 INCH Lbs.

The center and rear cam cap torque spec. is 13-16 Ft. Lbs.

 

You will pull the threads on the cylinder head if you torque them to tight.

 

heads are torqued.

The oil delivery is the only thing I can think of.I did remove the oil pump and replace the o ring as well as put 3 turns on one of the screws that was loose.Small bead around the pump housing,not to excess.The engine was never overheated,knew it was the hg by the bubbles in the overflow.The cam caps when first taken off were perfect.Would you have the valve lash specs handy?I found a used head for $200 but they wont let me be there when the dismantler takes it off .How important is it to put the cam caps back on the original way since I can't be there to label them?I guess I an deal with adjusting the valves under the circumstances.

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The oil delivery is the only thing I can think of.I did remove the oil pump and replace the o ring as well as put 3 turns on one of the screws that was loose.Small bead around the pump housing,not to excess.

 

Did you let it dry (24hr) before you started the engine ? .

 

How important is it to put the cam caps back on the original way since I can't be there to label them?

 

They are already labeled on the caps

 

You probably got some debris in the oil gallery and it migrated to the jet valve that is in side the cylinder head . see attached zip file , there are bolts at either end of the cylinder head that are 14 mm , pop those off and look inside you will see the valve . You will most likely see the debris SEA#3

WinAce.zip

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Valve lash specs. Intake- .008 Exhaust- .010.

 

As said by sea#3, the cam caps are marked.

 

It is the lifter buckets that are not. It is not the end of the world if the lifter buckets get mixed up, it will just be more work getting the valve lash set.

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[

 

Did you let it dry (24hr) before you started the engine ? .

 

How important is it to put the cam caps back on the original way since I can't be there to label them?

 

They are already labeled on the caps

 

You probably got some debris in the oil gallery and it migrated to the jet valve that is in side the cylinder head . see attached zip file , there are bolts at either end of the cylinder head that are 14 mm , pop those off and look inside you will see the valve . You will most likely see the debris SEA#3

I didnt let it dry.I didnt know.You were right,I took the bolt out and found a piece of silicone in the hole.

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When I get the used head can I take the jet valve bolts out and blow air through all the oil holes in the head or spray brakleen to make sure its clear?I looked at the caps and now understand the number/letter markings.

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When I get the used head can I take the jet valve bolts out and blow air through all the oil holes in the head or spray brakleen to make sure its clear?I looked at the caps and now understand the number/letter markings.

Yes you should check the new(used ) head aswell , but the real issue is there any more stuff in the engine?

If you don'tget it all out this may happen again

 

SEA#3

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What's all this about torque specs??? I just cranked them down to what felt right with a 1/4" drive ratchet. 10k miles later, it's still running great, other than the piston slap that is.

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I took the bolt from the other side of the motor and found that hole plugged as well (more silicone)but no damage to the cams.With more time I'm confident that side would have seized also.Very frustrating.

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