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Axles will not divorce the diff

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I am trying to remove my rear diff on my 83 GL wagon so I can welded it up.Ive knocked the pins out on the diff,Ive droped the diff as a matter of fact.Ive tried hitting the cups with a hammer but I cant really seem to do much(partly because I am afraid of SMASHING my hand.How can I get them off the diff so I can weld it?I dont have a blue wrench,In fact I dont have a welder I am taking the diff to a shop to have them weld it.Should I just undo the axles from the spindles and just take the whole dame thing with me?

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I supose I am going to have to get the axles off anyway.Or will it be a problem with limited driving on pavement to offroad area with stock tires?roughly 15 miles each way.

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A mapp gas torch will work - heat that sucker up and start whailing on it. BIG hammer, and spray it with a good penetrant while it's hot.

 

GD

 

This is what I had to do on my Brat. Just have to pound the you know what out of it.

 

Jeff

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wost case scenario, pull the joint apart, and clean the grease out of the cup. there's a cap in the bottom of the cup, and through there you can get to the E10 bolt that holds the stub in. you can take the stub out of the diff. at which point, you can soak the whole thing in penetrant. get some serious heat without worrying about cooking bearings and seals, or just cut the cup off.....I've done that.

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plenty of heat and PB blaster. sweat the moisture out and let the pb soak in. heat, spray, heat, spray, hammer, roatate, heat, sppray, hamme5r rotate.

 

use a 3 lb hammer because a ball bppne or a capenters hammer just wont do.

if you can get theputer end of the axles out of the spindle end, its eaier to pund away withthe hammer withthe whole diff out of the car.

 

clean the splines up real good and use anti seize when you go back together

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wost case scenario, pull the joint apart, and clean the grease out of the cup. there's a cap in the bottom of the cup, and through there you can get to the E10 bolt that holds the stub in. you can take the stub out of the diff. at which point, you can soak the whole thing in penetrant. get some serious heat without worrying about cooking bearings and seals, or just cut the cup off.....I've done that.

 

 

Thats what I've had to do, but I didn't know about that little plate until it fell out from be heating/pounding/everything else I could think of trying to get the cup off the diff.

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Um,I undid the pins out the spindle end. on both sides.I dont know if the shafts are supposed to slide of splines at the spindle or not,but mine is literally fused to the spindle as well.So Now im taking pretty much the whole rear suspension apart to get everything.Just now there doesnt seem to be enough room to get the axle plus stub out.A simple 45 minute job is taking 2 days.Im about ready to just say hell with it and run an open diff.No I am not cutting the cups off then I would need new axles and the axles are perfectly fine.I think I am going to bolt the diff up then find a fricken torch or something...

 

between all of the things I need to buy this $20 welding job is gonna cost me a 100 or so...And its raining!I WANT TO KILL SOMETHING.ARRRRR.

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don't need to drop the whole suspension. if it's fused to the spindle end too, you can pound the spindle out of the bearings. drop the diff (axles still attached.....) pull the brakes/hub off there, and start pounding on the spindle. it'll slide out of the bearings, and you can get it on a work bench to seperate the 2. and it's an EA81, so should have DOJs on the outer joints, so you should be able to disassemble pretty easily.

 

 

also. as far as I can tell, the outer joint does not have the easily removable cap in the cup like the inner one does. I've done a lot of pounding on it, and haven't gotten one out.

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also. as far as I can tell, the outer joint does not have the easily removable cap in the cup like the inner one does. I've done a lot of pounding on it, and haven't gotten one out.

 

There's more than one type of EA82 rear axle. Some have DOJ's on both ends, and some have CV's on the outboard side. The CV's are not serviceable. The DOJ's are.

 

GD

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Im gonna put the diff back where it went so I can jack the car up and rotate the axles so heat+penitrant+BFH can work.The whole car is so rusted that NON of the body jacking points will support weight anymore...so Im left with rear diff,and front suspension/crossmember.

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Take a pipe or really big punch and beat the hell out of them.

 

It is the only way also I have gotten alot apart from the junkyard little bit of penetrating oil and bam bam bam

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There's more than one type of EA82 rear axle. Some have DOJ's on both ends, and some have CV's on the outboard side. The CV's are not serviceable. The DOJ's are.

 

GD

 

yep, but this thread is about an EA81 ;)

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if this whole ordeal is over welding the diff, then why not just remove the rear diff cover and weld the gears with it on the car?

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if this whole ordeal is over welding the diff, then why not just remove the rear diff cover and weld the gears with it on the car?

 

I've done that. But he doesn't have a welder and he's probably trying to make it easier on the guy that does have a welder.

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i was able to get the left axle off the splines in the hub.then I pounded out the other side.Now its all out and the inside is cleaned up.Now I have to weld it tomarrow then put it back in.although it was easier to put pack in...

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I put anti seize on mine once I put it all back together, I hope to never have that problem again. It sucks!:) Either that or grease the crap out of it.

 

Jeff

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only one joint was able to break free.the other 3 a still fused.both axles off the diff and the right side axle to the spindle...Maybe alittle bit of driving on the road with it welded might loosen stuff up...

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Mine were stuck pretty bad, then I drove in 4WD on the road for a while (about 2000km all up) and they were loose. So if you've got a welded diff in the back I'd say some thrashing for a couple of days will get them off for you.

 

Anti-seize +1

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