Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board
Rooinater

toyota flatbed build...

Recommended Posts

some more update pics, tires installed, rear axle partially installed (still need to attach all the brake line and such), steering installed, and winch fully mounted. the only thing left to do for the winch is to cut out the hole in the bumper for the hause fairlead. the stock bumper will be used for now... i need to paint all the welds from the steering and winch mounting along with the fenders and rear crossbrace...

 

:popcorn: mmm.... approach angle...

P4062537.jpg

 

steering...

P4062540.jpg

 

P4062542.jpg

 

P4062545.jpg

 

:popcorn:

fender clearance at full locked... we'll see on compression in a few days...

P4062550.jpg

 

P4062555.jpg

 

P4062556.jpg

 

P4062557.jpg

 

mockup for possible bumpstop mounting...

P4062562.jpg

 

if there's tire room after all the weight is installed in the front and rear... tossing around the idea of taking another inch out of the shackles... just tossing around for now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

some more pics, checking for rubbage in the fender. barely touches the inner fender at full lock and upward compression. will have to take a hammer and massage that a little. but it's on a smooth surface where it touches so it shouldn't be too much of a problem. nothing a little massaging won't remove. fyi, there is no weight in bed and a floor jack was used to compress the front up to check for rubbing and where the bumps stops will need to be placed. not for max suspension movement... steering checks 4.0 for clearance to the pitman arm.

 

P4072568.jpg

 

P4072584.jpg

 

P4072575.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well the tire doesn't really touch. it's about an 1/8 of an inch touching the fender at full compression. so no massaging of the fender was needed when i showed up this weekend. but i did get all the winch plates and mounting, steering, rear cross brace and fenders painted. the steering box is mounted and the steering connected. the stock bumper was modified and mounted for now and a hawse fairlead was installed. did some measuring and looked into how we are going about stuffing the tcase to a flat belly. we also set the 1/4 elliptic springs out for size comarisons. they won't be going on till i get used to driving a solid axled rig again.... dad made some preliminary mounts for the front bumpstops, they'll be getting tweaked a little more, but they are an awesome start!! will be real solid when they get installed.... well here's the pics. the paint is ruff on the fenders, i just busted the rust off and barely blended the old paint. it's a wheeler, so it doesn't have to be perfect. :fawkdancesmiley:

 

P4132633.jpg

 

IMG_6579.jpg

 

IMG_6580.jpg

 

IMG_6590.jpg

 

IMG_6593.jpg

 

IMG_6600.jpg

 

IMG_6607.jpg

 

IMG_6612.jpg

 

here's a pic for ya eric! lol... typical jared shot...

IMG_6613.jpg

 

bumpstop mockup

IMG_6604.jpg

 

just looking at the suspension to be in a year or so.

P4112598.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well hydraulic assist has just been put into an extremely affordable range for me now! cheer.gifcheer.gif if i would of bought a hydraulic assist setup from trail gear, it would of cost $400 for the pump, cooler and resivoir, $200 dollars for the ram, and $400 dollars for a tapped steering box for hyd assist.... $1200 dollars!!! WTF!!! not in my budget, but it will be needed to turn those 39.5's in the rocks efficently.... so with some questions asked on nw-wheelers, i'll be able to do the ram setup for about $110, the tapped steering box for close to nothing, and the new high pressure modified saginaw steering pump for under $200!!! for a grand total of less than $350 i'll have hydraulic assist! that's a saving of $850 dollars or more! dad has a large pwr steering cooler just laying at the house, because he needed a bigger one for his truck. so i'll already have that! i'm stoked. now the question is, to buy the tcase parts and do that in may or the steering... maybe if i can swing it i'll get the tcase crossmember and crawl box rebuild kit, so that i can start the tcase stuffing. on top of that buy the steering ram, lines and fittings. then i can install the steering assist, and the following month i can get the pump parts! cheer.gifcheer.gifcheer.gifcheer.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well some new bling came in the mail for the truck. i'll actually install it on the truck when i get the bed built. but here's some mock up pics.

 

P4162652.jpg

 

P4162656.jpg

 

P4162653.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

figure i should up date my to do list and all that good stuff. not that anybody reads this section of the forum... :lol: :-p some plans have changed, but most have stayed fairly similar.

 

Dimensions and specs present and planned:

approx. 111" wheel base

28" to the belly

75" to the roof

79" bulge to bulge up front

80" bulge to bulge in the rear

39.5 iroks

beadlocks

 

Engine Bay

22r propane injected

tc modified high pressure saginaw steering box

pwr steering cooler

larger pwr steering resivoir

new radiator, w/dual electric cooling fans

high amp alternator

 

Cab and frame

bobbed rear frame

stuffed winch up front

rear winch

internal cage

tubbed and trimmed fenders

Half doors

suspension seats

 

Transmission and transfercase

5 speed forward shift

dual cases (front case 2.28, rear case 23 spline 4.7 twin sticked)

crawl box and tcase fully rebuilt

flatbelly

 

Frontend

modified rears up front

modified chevy shackles

14" travel bilstiens w/shock hoops

front square drive shaft

fully trussed and rebuilt front axle

5.29 gears

30 spline longfields

Aussie locker

hi steer w/flat pitman arm

Hydraulic assist

2" spacers

 

Rearend

Waggy 5 leafs

V6 widetrack axle housing

fully rebuilt

rear axle housing truss

5.29 gears

spool

chromoly rear shafts

14" travel bilstiens

2" spacers

(eventually down the road, 1/4 elliptic, dual triangulated 4link, 10 more inches off the rear of the frame)

 

i'm sure i missed a thing or two, but that's the basic outline.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Pretty cool! About how much $ does it take to build one of those?

 

depends on what you want to do with it... mine... the tires cost $150 more than i paid for the truck....... so plenty, i don't have an exact total, just know that i need several thousand more to get it up and going to the specs that i want. then another grand for the propane injection... then after i roll it... another grand for a formula toy body. eric and ken paid like 1500 for their's, and they were wheelable from the get-go. mine needed some TLC, hence why i paid very little. but eric always finds the best deals.

 

i don't even want to actually tally how deep i'm into the cost portion....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

22r carb, it's not the fuel injected 22re, but it will be propane injected asap. staying with the 22r, 1 for semi-fuel efficency, 2 for the reliability, 3 it might just become a formula toy comp rig, unless i 4-link the rear, then it will just be a formula trail buggy and not a compitition rig, or i'll find another toyota and convert it to a formula toy.

 

this is what a formula toy is if your wondering. there's only one semi-local comp, and that's when we-rock is in ellensburg or if they get to come to ellensburg...

http://www.formulatoy.org/

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=314&stc=1&d=1199313144

 

basic breakdown of a formula toy, is you take a toyota frame, engine, tranny, tcase, leaf springs, axles... with strict rules for modification, then take a hendrixmotorsports.com tube chassis and weld it to your frame. toyota instant buggy...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

small update, picking up a bearing press on saturday, some rust removing wheels and some more rattle cans... then ordering some solid pinion spacers for the diffs, and let the bearing pressing begin... other than that i'll just be busting rust and doing some painting this month.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
You should look into makin a 22r/20r hybrid, a 22r with a slightly modified 20r head, the 20r head flows better and boosts compression.

 

i've looked into it, but it's about as high on my list as rear disc brakes are at the moment. i'll have to do that and some high compression pistons if i run this tired motor with propane. the other idea is to look into a rebuilt engine. but that's a lot of cash, so a rebuild on this engine + high compression pistons and a 20r head might be reasonable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

didn't get near as much accomplished this weekend as i was planning... i was planning on finishing stripping the paint off the back half of the frame and get it painted... but all i got done was helping my dad clear out the garage for the new 20ton press i bought, so that we can install the gears, lockers and rebuild the crawl box. then sunday was a late start for a run to reiter... perfect lines are needed when wheeling a stock zuk... i need a lift on that too... maybe an inch shackle lift for now...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I'm finally getting some wrench time while I'm on spring break. I'm presently rebuilding the rear end. Removed the old shafts, which in the process of maxing out my 20 ton press and having to tap on the shaft to get them off... I bent the heck out of the backing plates, and now will have to go to disc brakes a lot sooner than planned... Since the drum brakes will have to go away now, I stripped the brake parts off and got it down to just the bare hubs, I took them to Alternative Blasters in Marysville and got them blasted. Painted the hubs with 2 coats of hunter green, still need to put on one more coat of paint on wednesday. Then we disassembled the rear differential to prep for the gear and spool install. I took the open carrier from the rear and started prepping it for my front Aussielocker. After finally getting the carrier disassembled and the spider gears out, we measured the carrier pin where the spider gears rode for wear and the center pin was out of spec for using the locker. Luckily we found another open carrier in the garage with an excellent center pin. Not sure where it came from, must of been when I got a bunch of toy axle parts for the subaru, and I just don't remember. Anyways I'll be finishing setting up the locker on wednesday, along with adding the last coat of paint to the hubs, finish removing the the bearing races from the carrier, finish cleaning the carrier and start the spool and gear install. The rest of the week i'll be finishing the axle. I'll try to start posting pics tonight, I left my camera cable on the peninsula... I'm headed over there today to take care of some stuff and will try to grap it. My camera uses an XD card which the computer up here doesn't have a slot for.

Edited by Rooinater

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

housing prepped for teardown

P3210066.jpg

stripped

P3210068.jpg

3rd member out

P3210069.jpg

pulling the carrier

P3230079.jpg

sand blasted hubs

P3230078.jpg

painted hubs

P3230085.jpg

getting ready to drive the pin out of the pinion shaft

P3230086.jpg

Starting the locker install

P3230087.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Let me know how that aussie locker works out for you. I was thinking of getting one for the front of the 4Runner.

 

hopefully i'll be able to let you know by winter. Everyone i've chatted with haven't had a problem with them and or really like them. They are supposedly a lot better than the lockrights.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

a little more progress today, finished painting the hubs, then cleaning the overspray... Then I setup the Aussielocker, which was an interesting task in itself, not hard but i used 2 different carriers and was getting the same out of tolerance measurement for the spacers... Called the US dealer and they said to mic the spacers. sure enough it was a difference in the spacers and they said the major thing with that particular clearance is that it's not to tight. So .006 looser than specs won't hurt a thing, it's the cam gear measurement that is critical to be within specs. Then i setup the hubs, put some wheel studs in the new axles, and pressed the hubs onto the shafts.

 

Setup Aussielocker

P3250088.jpg

 

Painted Hubs and stuffed the guts in

P3250089.jpg

P3250090.jpg

 

mocked up on the housing.

P3250091.jpg

 

pressing the shafts in

P3250093.jpg

 

comparing the taper of the stock shafts and chromoly shafts, pictures don't really do justice of the taper difference.

P3250094.jpg

 

still left to do this week, setup the spool and gears for the rear third member, install the rear third, install the new hub seals and bolt up the shafts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×