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Thunking on passenger side when making right turn


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I have looked around for things like this, but they seem slightly different. I just replaced the passenger cv joint (entire axle) because it was clicking and clunking. After replacing the axle the clunking is actually worse!!!:eek: It only happens when accelerating in a sharp right turn and I can't hear it in

4WD.

 

Possible loose axle nut or bad u-joint? :dead:

 

Also i read here that the axle attatches to the transmission only one way. When I slid it on the splines the holes didn't exactly match up and I just shaved down the pin so it could be hammered in. I didn't think to pull it off and rotate it, did I put the axle in wrong? thank you so much. This forum has saved a great deal of time and money.:burnout:

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aftermarket axles are junk so it's really impossible for us to say for sure that your axle is any good or even if it's positively bad. but i would start there since there is no shortage of "i installed a new axle but still have problems" comments about "new" axles.

 

used subaru axles or MWE are your only good options for axles...particularly EA/ER stuff (older generation)

 

and yes - get a new roll pin, you just needed to rotate 180 degrees for the pin and hole to line up correctly. the easy way to get it right is to look at the holes in the axle - you can tell which way will line up. one hole will have a "hump" of the spline lined up with it's center, the other will have a "valley" of a spline lined up with the middle of it. match it to the right one on the tranny stub and you get it right every time. if that sounds complicated - it's not, just look with the old eyeball.

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by the way it is a 90 loyale non turbo

I understand the idea of rotating the axle and I think that is my next move once I clear out my garage. :) It is a new axle from NAPA and I have the same kind on the other side with no problems after about 10k miles. maybe it is just a bad axle. It doesn't have the axle click noise at all just loud consistent thunk on right turn only.

 

I replaced the ball joint at the same time because it was completely rusted. It was a cheap one from shucks and I am wondering if it isn't the right one. averything has been checked for tightness.

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