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? ACTUAL resistance values for blower motor speed control pack ?


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looking for ACTUAL resistance values for the resistors in the resistor pack for the blower motor speed control

 

would also like to know the resistance value of the blower motor itself

 

trying to calculate watts, etc. to over-build a replacement system, overkill

 

search has come up with little info, also not sure of the accuracy

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64761&highlight=resistor+pack&page=6 # 58 gave some info, but a little hard to follow

 

when values entered in spreadsheet, stuff is easier to see

 

chart is at http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3192778

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That is even more wattage than I thought it would be. Maybe using resistors that size a seat heater could be designed. LOL. Summertime use may not be so pleasent though. Darn, back to the drawing board.
This problem has been beaten to death pretty often. The final conclusion is that the wattage is pretty significant; that's why Fuji uses the blower to run air over the resistor block to dissipate some of the heat. Best bet is to hit the pull a part yards and pull one of these until you find a good one (been there, done that). Good luck.
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Best bet is to hit the pull a part yards and pull one of these until you find a good one (been there, done that). Good luck.

 

Also, if it is worth it for you to buy new, there are replacements available. Rockauto.com has 5 brands including Subaru for $38.79 to $55.79.

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SOA part number for the EA81 HVAC blower resistor is 772083010. It can be found online for about $35 plus shipping. Walking into your local Subaru dealership would be about $50, so if time if a factor, a $15 premium isn't terrible. but then again...you'd have to wait till they get their order in too, so I guess it's not really quicker, is it?

(If, judging by your avatar, you're a Subaru tech as well, you can probably get it pretty cheap through work anyways.)

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the reason I requested the ACTUAL resistance values is because... 1. from reading post # 58, it was not clear if the values were after his repair

2. I will be ordering high watt wire wound aluminum case axial lead bolt on flange mount 1% resistors, cost less than $6 each made by Huntington Electric Inc., sold by Digi-Key Corporation, with a data sheet @ http://www.heiresistors.com/PDF/TMC%20Spec.pdf , that will be bolted to the main blower duct just after the blower motor so the fan will keep them cool :brow:

 

hopefully a durable solution to the :horse: issue :drunk:

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That (#58) was my post.

 

The only non stock resistor is the 1 ohm for the slowest speed. It's close, but just a bit slower than stock for the lowest setting. I have not had one of my modified ones fail. I've been running EA82 wagons since about 1988.

 

I'm not sure why the list / columns got all messed up. I don't remember them that way originally.

 

Probably +- 10% on the values won't make the blower speeds way off.

 

I would bolt those aluminum resistors to a plate (not just the plastic) also. The power ratings assume a heatsink.

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I figured the ambient temp will be low enough to not worry about extra heat sink with the active cooling from the fan, but perhaps a piece of diamond tread aluminum holding the resistors away from the box wall 1/2" + may work better

 

will be using the spare blower box as the test bed for R/D purposes

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a maybe dumb but hopefully related problem with my blower: sometimes, it just won't work, at any speed setting. No rhyme or reason as to when, but it just plain doesn't work for a driving session or two ... then, like magic, it 'decides' to work again. SOMETIMES, when the blower motor speed is @ "high", there is about a 2-3 second delay between the time the car starts and the time the blower motor kicks in.

 

When it works, all 3 speeds work. When it doesn't work, no speeds at all work.

 

Not sure where to start. Are we talking Relay? Resistor? Motor?

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Not resistor. Possibly the contact that feeds power to the switch. There are a few others in the wiring also. Possibly motor. I guess I'd start with a voltmeter check on the 2 leads of the motor. Lead to lead, lead 1 to ground, lead 2 to ground. That will tell a lot. While it is not working properly.

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I'm working on this same problem as we speak, since it's winter over here and when it's winter time, it's wet, so I really need the blower working properly.

 

So I built myself a PWM motor controller, and am currently modding the dash switch to accept the potentiometer, so I will have full 0%-100% control over the fan :)

 

Will post some pictures when it's done.

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