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Monster


Scott in Bellingham
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Heres my car a built 1-1/2 years ago, In starting to work on it again, so I thought I would start a thread,

heres the specs,

 

87 Turbo wagon 118,000 miles

EJ 2.2 EFI

stock Subaru 5 speed

Bronco 2 4 speed with transfercase

3.90 welded rear diff

3.90 open front diff

31 x10.50 tires

body shortned 20"

 

picture.php?albumid=50&pictureid=336

 

picture.php?albumid=50&pictureid=337

 

 

picture.php?albumid=50&pictureid=338

 

just put in the EJ still have to wire it up

plan on taking it to Walker next time out as the white car is brocken,

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right scott, what is your ratio?cheers, brain

 

 

OK this is the specs

 

Stock turbo trans 1st gear no low range 3.54

Bronco 2 first gear ............... ........... 3.96

Bronco 2 transfercase low range ......... 2.48

Subaru rear diffs front and rear .......... 3.90

 

................crawl ratio............ .. 135.58 to 1

 

 

 

stock subbie 5 speed with dual range for comparrison

 

1st gear ........3.54

low range...... 1.6

diffs............. 3.9

crawl ratio.... 22.08 to 1

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OK this is the specs

 

Stock turbo trans 1st gear no low range 3.54

Bronco 2 first gear ............... ........... 3.96

Bronco 2 transfercase low range ......... 2.48

Subaru rear diffs front and rear .......... 3.90

 

................crawl ratio............ .. 135.58 to 1

 

 

 

stock subbie 5 speed with dual range for comparrison

 

1st gear ........3.54

low range...... 1.6

diffs............. 3.9

crawl ratio.... 22.08 to 1

 

 

ping! those subaru diffs and axles are going to need to go... 55:1 to 60:1 is enough torque to shear the stub shafts and cv cups.

 

how many inches is the rear driveline????

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all this talk of what works what doesnt its all from a good source, but driving technique is a big part of if you break or not , all the stuff I have broke could have been prevented if the driver (me) had driven differently

 

Ive bent radius rods, destroyed a clutch ,broke a stub shaft on a rock smacking it, lost reverse ,all because of how I drove, Ive watched many videos of machines offroad breaking all sorts of parts and its usually the drivers technique or a systen set up improperly like overextending a cv

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all this talk of what works what doesnt its all from a good source, but driving technique is a big part of if you break or not , all the stuff I have broke could have been prevented if the driver (me) had driven differently

 

Ive bent radius rods, destroyed a clutch ,broke a stub shaft on a rock smacking it, lost reverse ,all because of how I drove, Ive watched many videos of machines offroad breaking all sorts of parts and its usually the drivers technique or a systen set up improperly like overextending a cv

 

well, i have a seriously limited rear suspension, so no over extended shafts here. i'm not heavy on the pedal, i prefer to crawl along and use minimal go pedal, which is one of the many reasons i'm not a mudding fan. i've never broke the stub or cv by hitting it on a rock. It usually breaks when the shafts get bound up, add extra torque via gearing and a worked up 1.8L and a very small touch of gas or when it goes from no traction to instant traction and shears the stub. it's generally the stub, hence why i carry 4 - 6 spares on every trail run. I believe all the pavement runs to and from the trail on rwd and a lincoln locker is causing a lot of the stress on the rear cv's and stub axles, which is why i'll be starting to pull cv shafts again when i start back to wheeling her.

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That last run where I took my Brat up. I know that it doesn't matter how you wheel, since Will, Rob, Woody, and me All broke one or more axle(s), all said and done one day of wheeling broke or better yet they "Shattered the Bells, 6 axles, on 4 different cars, and all of them where EA81, since most all of us have given up on Wheeling EA81, and converted to EA82's There has only been one rear axle broke on 7 or 8 trips. GD has a good write up on the EA82 bells on EA81 axles. They are a crap load stronger.

 

Jeff

Edited by one eye
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