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Please help, no 4WD only FWD??????


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Please help, I only have FWD, no power to the rear wheels. I don't know much about the history of this car other than; it's a 1995 Legacy, 214,000 miles, Automatic. I bought the car for next to nothing so I can't complain. I have to have 4wd due where I live and that was the sole reason I got back into another Subaru.

 

I tried doing a search but there were only few posts and one or two about a fuse under the hood for 4wd but I think it was for earlier models but I am not sure. Where should I start?

 

Thanks guys I really appreciate all the help here

 

Prasad

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ARe you sure that car is an AWD car? in 95 they came in both versions. Look under the car for the rear drive train. If it is, in fact, an AWD model then you have problems with the tranny. Look under the hood near the passenger firewall and see if the fuse is in. If it is then the previous owner put it in due to problems with the tranny, possibly torque bind. If it isn't there, then you have to look at the rear drive solenoids in the tranny.

 

Good luck

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so if you have the rear drive train and there is no fuse in the FWD holder, then try unplugging the wire harness to the trans, (passenger side near the fire wall down on the bell housing, one of the 2.

 

this will force the trans into limp mode, you will only have 3rd gear and it will be 'locked' in 4WD which will give you torque bind in turns.

 

if not , you'll need repairs to get AWD working.

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ehhhh, I just got this problem fixed in my 95 Impreza...It was an internal component in the tranny which = tranny replacement. I guess I neglected the "torque bind" which eventually sheared the rear drive shaft internally in the rear of the tranny. More info below in previous posts.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=92194

 

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=92341

 

Good luck, I hope you get it fix'ed.

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Thanks again guys, I have one more question. Say it is in the trans and I need to replace/ fix it. If I don't want to spend the money, how long can I drive on 2wd with out any issues other than what it is, a 2wd Subaru.Would there be any other issues?

 

Thanks

Prasad

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ehhhh, I just got this problem fixed in my 95 Impreza...It was an internal component in the tranny which = tranny replacement. I guess I neglected the "torque bind" which eventually sheared the rear drive shaft internally in the rear of the tranny. More info below in previous posts.

\.

I didn't read your threads so this might be out of context, but answers the OP question as well...

 

If the tranny has torque bind or a Duty Solenoid C issue (the one that controls the 4WD) You do not need to replace the tranny. I've been very successful in the past taking the rear extension housing off of the tranny and either replacing the solenoid (very common) or the clutch pack.

 

Sometimes also a simple transmission fluid flush will take care of binding issues. Typically if the fluid looks fresh, and you are getting a code in the tranny for solenoid c and the tranny otherwise doesn't slip... then you can play Dr.

 

In some instances I've got binding trannys that slip badly in gear... flushing makes them not move... they are done. I've also had issues in the past with TCUs going south....

 

Are you getting any codes? (power light flashes at start up)

 

Also, a simple note on the electronics. When the rear solenoid GETS power it DUMPs fluid resulting in 2wd. When you put the fuse into the holder, it GROUNDS the TCU which APPLIES POWER to the solenoid. That's why if it's stuck, or the TCU is bunk, the solenoid stays closed which is full 50/50 4wd.

 

Ok, too much info... basically it's this. if inserting the fuse, like you have it in fwd, with NO binding, means the solenoid works... or the clutch pack is wore out (hopefully the first one) from there if the tranny doesn't slip, you're set.:banana:

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Thanks again guys, I have one more question. Say it is in the trans and I need to replace/ fix it. If I don't want to spend the money, how long can I drive on 2wd with out any issues other than what it is, a 2wd Subaru.Would there be any other issues?

 

Hard to say for sure, but you should be

fine as long as no parts are broken off and floating around in

the tranny.

 

952.2's post on the internal shaft being broken comes to mind.

 

I'd stick the FWD fuse in to minimize what

is driven in the rear clutch pack area.

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No advice for this thread; Just reading with interest because a friend told me that his mechanic told him (bad news already?) that removing this plug would disable AWD leaving just front wheel drive and this saves on tire wear. So, I have done this to my 96 Leg OB for summer months.

 

He mumbled something about a problem of rear differential not getting proper lubrication but this was a minor issue?

 

Now I'm not sure if this is a good idea or even does what I was told.

 

I thought I'd just jump into this thread to see if someone here can tell me what I'm actually doing by removing the AWD plug and if this is a good idea at all...????:rolleyes:

 

PT

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No advice for this thread;....I thought I'd just jump into this thread :rolleyes:

 

PT

 

This is called 'hi-jacking the thread' and is heavily frowned upon as it interferes w/the thread's progress.

 

Please SEARCH 1st (your question is answered elsewhere on this site) and if you don't find it then start your own Thread.

 

Thanks

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I didn't read your threads so this might be out of context, but answers the OP question as well...

 

If the tranny has torque bind or a Duty Solenoid C issue (the one that controls the 4WD) You do not need to replace the tranny. I've been very successful in the past taking the rear extension housing off of the tranny and either replacing the solenoid (very common) or the clutch pack.

 

Sometimes also a simple transmission fluid flush will take care of binding issues. Typically if the fluid looks fresh, and you are getting a code in the tranny for solenoid c and the tranny otherwise doesn't slip... then you can play Dr.

 

In some instances I've got binding trannys that slip badly in gear... flushing makes them not move... they are done. I've also had issues in the past with TCUs going south....

 

Are you getting any codes? (power light flashes at start up)

 

Also, a simple note on the electronics. When the rear solenoid GETS power it DUMPs fluid resulting in 2wd. When you put the fuse into the holder, it GROUNDS the TCU which APPLIES POWER to the solenoid. That's why if it's stuck, or the TCU is bunk, the solenoid stays closed which is full 50/50 4wd.

 

Ok, too much info... basically it's this. if inserting the fuse, like you have it in fwd, with NO binding, means the solenoid works... or the clutch pack is wore out (hopefully the first one) from there if the tranny doesn't slip, you're set.:banana:

 

 

Great info! But I was getting a clunk sound every time I went in reverse and turned. I attributed it to a cv joint but was wrong. Yea I heard one could repair it pretty easily, but the cost was around the same as just getting a tranny. I got the (used)tranny (150xxx miles) plus install for around 750 bucks. Which I think was a good deal.

 

Back to driving the car with only FWD. I did this for months in my Impreza. The only thing I was worried about was all the power going to the front wheels and damaging the front diff. somehow. It also sucked just having fwd...I felt inferior....:-\ lol. But it did still run just fine. I was also worried about any loose parts flyin around in the tranny. So, If you do drive it, just take it easy on her.

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To the OP here is a tip. Kinduv a short term fix if your clutch pack has worn out, but it worked for me through a few Wisconsin winters.

 

Read Andys write up on the "C Solenoid" lock switch. Search "diff lock" or "lock switch"

 

His write up will show you how to find the single wire that controls the AWD solenoid, known as the C or Transfer solenoid. Then, you can cut that wire(leave enough pigtail on the connector side to splice back onto) this will give the transfer clutch max pressure, and will squeeze any last life out of the worn clutch. Try it in some snow, and see if the results are satisfactory.

 

Now if it doesn't, This means either the solenoid failed in an *open* state, or the clutches are totallyshot or the output has sheered. You can reconnect the cut wire, and proceed to 2wd only or fixing you're clutches.

 

If it does give you 4wd, run a wire off both cut ends of you're wire into the passenger compartment. Run the wire long enough to reach a good switch mount point, and put a 20 amp rated on/off switch in the line.

 

Now you have a "lock" switch.

 

Be very careful using this though. Now you basically have to think like a true 4wd. USE IN SLIPPERY/LOW TRACTION CONDITIONS. LEAVING 4wd operating this way while driving on pavement may damage (further) the transmission or axles.

Edited by Gloyale
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Have you tried driving the car for more then a hour per say and seeing if the AWD want's to kick in at all ?

 

When I bought the car I drove 60 miles home but how can I tell if the 4wd is working. The only reason I found out it wasn't working was when we had 6" snow on the ground the my buddy told me it was only spinning the front wheels when I tried to pull out of the parking spot.

 

Prasad

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Hard to say for sure, but you should be

fine as long as no parts are broken off and floating around in

the tranny.

 

952.2's post on the internal shaft being broken comes to mind.

 

I'd stick the FWD fuse in to minimize what

is driven in the rear clutch pack area.

 

What amp fuse should I put in?

 

Thanks

Prasad

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What amp fuse should I put in?

 

Thanks

Prasad

 

any fuse will do , you're just completing the circuit. put in the fuse and look for the FWD light on the dash, and then compare how it drives with the fuse to without the fuse. there is a noticeable difference between FWD and AWD. try changing lanes on the hiway.

 

if there is no difference, try unplugging the wire harness that goes to the transmission. you can find it on the rear of the engine, passenger side, near the top of the trans bell housing. there are 2 connectors there, I THINK the larger one goes to the trans. follow the wires to be sure. the other one goes to engine wiring, follow the wires.

 

with the harness unplugged the car will be in 'limp mode', designed to get you home if the electronics in the trans fail. you will only have 3rd gear and you will be 'locked' in 4WD (if you have it). drive in some circles in a parking lot and look / feel for torque bind. you'll know it when you feel it, no torque bind, no 4WD, you need repairs or a used trans. if you do have torquebind then the mechancal parts, (clutch plates, hubs, shaft, etc.,) are in the trans and working. if you don't have torque bind, there is something broken inside.

 

 

 

let us know.

Edited by johnceggleston
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A 92 should work fine but you may have to set them side by side and ghange out a few plugs etc. As long as it's out of an EJ car and it is a 4 spd auto 4EAT it should work fine. But also make sure it comes out of a car with the same gear ratio as yours if not you may need to change your rear diff as well.

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I would search on here about compatibility, since the '95 is a different generation and the '92 TCU may not like the '95.

 

Also, in '95 they went back to a 4.11 diff ratio for the automatics so you'll need to swap the rear diff (PITA).

 

Automatics only:

 

- '90-91 - 4.11 diff

- '92 - 94 - 3.90 diff

- '95 - ? - 4.11 diff (ej22 only)

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