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Markus56 getting lifted!!

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How hard was it to do the rear lift like that? I assume a spring compressor was used? That's cool, I had never thought to do it like that. Looks good!

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This is SICK-easy!! and cheap!!

 

would this fly on a new gen?? something similarly easy for a new gen, just using blocks of tube steel between the strut top-hat and the body? I'm just thinking 2 inches MAX, maybe? and you could tack them all together (instead of 3 independent lifts, one per strut mounting bolt, you'd have a lighter "block" lift)

 

I've thought about pressing out the studs and replacing them with taller bolts then threading nuts to lift the top of my struts from the body. I know, skethy as heck, but thoughts and being a cheap-skate, not interested in the price of a full block kit for 4 inches of lift. Its the same concept really, just push the body off the top of the struts. I remember someone doing a 1/4" lift by slipping some 1/4" aluminium between the strut and the body, so this is essentially the same thing!

 

Do you need to do any steering linkage adjusting, longer brake lines, any other issues with moving the motor away from the suspension or anything like that?

 

If this could be translated to a new gen, that would rock some other folks' world!!

 

HMMMMMM... :rolleyes:

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How hard was it to do the rear lift like that? I assume a spring compressor was used? That's cool, I had never thought to do it like that. Looks good!

 

No spring compressor, just close your eyes and hope for the best.:grin:

 

Jeff

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Nice pics, Jeff! What size bolts did'ya use? I'm stoked about doing this lift on my soob. :banana:

 

The one that comes up is from the strut. but the other one is a 12mm from the power steering bracket, So the only thing that is not subaru is the block!

 

Jeff

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The one that comes up is from the strut. but the other one is a 12mm from the power steering bracket, So the only thing that is not subaru is the block!

 

Jeff

 

You must be referring to the rear only, right? It would thread in with no nut to back it up. I'll just borrow a P/S bolt to match up the thread size at my hardware store. Could prob use any size for the fronts, eh? :grin:

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You must be referring to the rear only, right? It would thread in with no nut to back it up. I'll just borrow a P/S bolt to match up the thread size at my hardware store. Could prob use any size for the fronts, eh? :grin:

 

 

Ya 10-4 good buddy!!:grin:

 

Jeff

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This is SICK-easy!! and cheap!!

 

 

Do you need to do any steering linkage adjusting, longer brake lines, any other issues with moving the motor away from the suspension or anything like that?

 

 

 

No it's all right in the struts. It stressed your axles a bit, and that's about it, also it makes swapping the axle a pain in the , you know what. Other then that no problem.

 

Jeff

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Ya know, Ive found that if you undo the 2 motor mounts on the engine and move the motor around when changing the axle it makes it a LOT easier to get off the tranny, and then you dont have to undo the strut at all. :banana: That wagon looks great BTW, I wish I could find a black one for sale.

-Bill

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nice turn out, question for you though, did you drop the engine/trans/rear diff at all? or just the blocks between the struts and body?

 

i have the SJR 2inch suspension, but my front CV's hit the sub frame so im thinking of droping the front/rear 2inches to match the blocks on the struts.

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nice turn out, question for you though, did you drop the engine/trans/rear diff at all? or just the blocks between the struts and body?

 

i have the SJR 2inch suspension, but my front CV's hit the sub frame so im thinking of droping the front/rear 2inches to match the blocks on the struts.

 

Mine rub too, I just figure for the price and the amount of work, they can rub away. Mine is just my wheeler. For the rear, Ricks and Chad's are do not have the rear diffs dropped, Rick broke one rear axle but there was not a pin in the axle it was a cotter pin. so I think that the rear axles can handle it.

 

 

Jeff

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bump Originally Posted by superu viewpost.gif

This is SICK-easy!! and cheap!!

 

would this fly on a new gen?? ... HMMMMMM... :rolleyes:

 

 

I think it would work, I've never done it before with a new one but..........

I would think the only thing you would really want to get is a spring compressor, those spring can shoot off and kill everyone!!

 

Jeff

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i have a SJR 2inch lift and 28inch wildcat tires on 15inch pug flat spokes, its been a great settup for trail rides, logging roads, and playing in the mud. worked great to pull out my bone stock 82 hatch back i sunk yesterday in some mud bog i stopped in.

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Oh and would an 88 wagon have the option to tighten the torsion bar? like on page 2.

 

This lift is PERFECT for me, my subie is my daily driver, any drawbacks to putting this on a daily driver?

 

You car does not have the torsion bar option so no you can't do that, it would have to be some sort of 2" lift for the rear.

 

Cody's is a dd and his seams to be fine, the only thing would be you could go through tires in the front kind of fast from the non perfect camber.

 

Jeff

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You car does not have the torsion bar option so no you can't do that, it would have to be some sort of 2" lift for the rear.

 

Cody's is a dd and his seams to be fine, the only thing would be you could go through tires in the front kind of fast from the non perfect camber.

 

Jeff

 

yea,could flip my tires every once in awhile. would make em last a lil longer.

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You can probably find the materials in your Shop's scrap pile somewhere, if not, the amount of material needed is not very much at all, would probably cost around 30 bucks for the steel, then your time to cut and drill it. Cost less if you buy it at scrap price.

-Bill

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This lift is PERFECT for me, my subie is my daily driver, any drawbacks to putting this on a daily driver?

 

I have had two EA82's that I lifted in a similar way. I used aluminum blocks on the front and then made lift blocks for the rear. Both were two inch lifts and I only dropped the struts, and I used both of them as daily drivers and off roaders and never had an issue with either of them

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Cool, I looked in my shops scrap bin, the only 2x2 metal we had only was about 1/16 in thick, gonna look down at the local scrap yard. Thanks for this thread, and everyone that helped me out=)

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Cool, I looked in my shops scrap bin, the only 2x2 metal we had only was about 1/16 in thick, gonna look down at the local scrap yard. Thanks for this thread, and everyone that helped me out=)

 

If it is 3/16" that will work.

 

Jeff

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I just picked up some perfect stuff for this lift yesterday, but had to buy a 32" piece, so I'll have excess. It's galvanized 2x2, 1/4 wall with rounded corners! :banana:

It'd be heavy to ship, so I'd chop it up to ship priority flat rate. 'Bout 18" for $15

 

Mods, you can put this in "for sale" area, if you like, but Jeff has first dibs for posting this awesome thread. :grin:

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I just picked up some perfect stuff for this lift yesterday, but had to buy a 32" piece, so I'll have excess. It's galvanized 2x2, 1/4 wall with rounded corners! :banana:

It'd be heavy to ship, so I'd chop it up to ship priority flat rate. 'Bout 18" for $15

 

Mods, you can put this in "for sale" area, if you like, but Jeff has first dibs for posting this awesome thread. :grin:

 

Are you going to use some of this on your rig?

you could bring it down to MV some day and We could slam it on in no time.

 

 

Jeff

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