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Markus56 getting lifted!!

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Are you going to use some of this on your rig?

you could bring it down to MV some day and We could slam it on in no time.

 

 

Jeff

 

Yeah, I figured 18" would be more than enough, even with a screw-up or two, so I've got enough for two cars. I was going to do this myself, tomorrow, but there's no hurry. I still have 13" steelies after all! :eek:

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Yeah, I figured 18" would be more than enough, even with a screw-up or two, so I've got enough for two cars. I was going to do this myself, tomorrow, but there's no hurry. I still have 13" steelies after all! :eek:

 

If you want we could do it at my place

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Looking at the rear block, the bolt on top of the strut, how is that held in? just welded or what?

 

The threads of the the strut stick up with the 2 14mm pinch bolts and the top part is a 12mm bolt that goes from the block all the way through the original mounting bracket with the original washer, and a lock washer with a nut.

 

Jeff

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Looking at the rear block, the bolt on top of the strut, how is that held in? just welded or what?

 

Thats the actual strut bolt and I'm sure there is just a nut on it that you can't quite see in the pic

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If you want we could do it at my place

 

Sounds great, Scott! I've been meaning to come up and help you out with that fiberglassing or other things too. When's a good time for you? No offense, Jeff, but Scott's closer and we've got other agendas. :banana:

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No offense, Jeff, but Scott's closer and we've got other agendas. :banana:

 

None taken at all. Just as long as you get it lifted up in the air!!:banana:

 

Jeff

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Could we get just a quick write up of how to actually put the blocks on, Im a noob when it comes to suspension(see I dont think I can even spell it right!)

thanks=)

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I was looking at the front tires on my wagon the other day and they are getting eaten up because of the camber. does the offset lift work on gen 3 wagons? if it does, that is getting fixed immediatly

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You need to make a total of 4 of the blocks on the upper part of this diagram. You will need 2 of these blocks for the driver's side, and you will need 2 of these blocks for the passenger side.

 

 

 

 

 

 

You then need to make 2 of the blocks from the lower part of this diagram. You need 1 of those blocks for the driver's side, and you need 1 for the passenger side. These blocks are for the front (as in front of the car, closer to the radiator than the other two mounting points) mounting point for each strut because the other design of block will not fit in between the strut, and the body.

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Oh, I get it now. Thanks! Is the tack weld necessary for the ones on the top of the page?

 

And then the bottom part is a 2x2x2 with offset holes

Edited by Markus56

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hi all, this might be my first post, not sure. I've lurked for a long time. I have an EA81...81 GL 4x4 wagon to be specific.

 

what would i need to do to lift the front once i cranked the rear? could someone 'splain this to me?

 

thanks.

 

BTW, I"m bigdaddy over on Expedition portal.

 

-Brian

 

EDIT: nah, not even close...lol...eleventh post in two years, oh well.

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hi all, this might be my first post, not sure. I've lurked for a long time. I have an EA81...81 GL 4x4 wagon to be specific.

 

what would i need to do to lift the front once i cranked the rear? could someone 'splain this to me?

 

thanks.

 

BTW, I"m bigdaddy over on Expedition portal.

 

-Brian

 

EDIT: nah, not even close...lol...eleventh post in two years, oh well.

 

 

Just put 2x2x2" blocks right on the top of the struts where they bolt up. I wish I had a pic of what it looks like,that would make it better for ya but........... I'll see what I can do.

 

 

Jeff

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Here is a better picture of what the car looks like all said and done, but I have no pics of the actual blocks them selves.................

 

Baldieface.jpg?t=1233945426

 

Jeff

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I just read this post and it looks like a cool, low buck idea! on the blocks with the 15 degree offset are you moving the top of the strut towards the outside of the fender or towards the engine to keep the camber in check? please pardon my newbiness, I'm just trying to picture it in my head. Thanks!

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I just read this post and it looks like a cool, low buck idea! on the blocks with the 15 degree offset are you moving the top of the strut towards the outside of the fender or towards the engine to keep the camber in check? please pardon my newbiness, I'm just trying to picture it in my head. Thanks!

Moving the top of the strut towards the engine

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Back to the top! I was thinking about doing this type of lift on my new car, I was just wondering about the rear. You really don't need a spring compressor? I just thought if you remove the nut on top of the rear strut that the spring will push the mount right off. It looks so easy, I think I will go this route!!

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you might have issues with your front CV's rubbing on the sub frame. i do atleast with the SJR 2inch lift.

 

on the back, all you do is remove the 2 17mm bolts that hold the top of the strut to the body. grab the mount and twist it 180degrees. then you get your 2inch plate to drop it and bolt it up.

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This is the pic I'm talking about, it looks like you have to remove the plate off the top of the strut add in the block and then reattach the mounting plate. I thought of you took the mounting plate off the top of the strut, that would allow the spring to release. Is this not the case? Thanks for the help!!

Marcus56Subaru002-1.jpg?t=1231713137

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you can do it that way, but i like the way SJR does it, 2 pieces of steel plate bent at like a 15degree angle and bolted to the stock mount. a lot faster and easier to install.

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