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Power Window Repair

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Time for war... get the window down if you can, and tap the door snubber pin loose. If you can't move the window, I have used a

1 amp motorcycle trickle charger to carefully power the window motor directly

LoyalePowerWindows017.jpgthe window master panel wiring connects behind the driver kick panel, the column wiring is exposed for

some other work - don't pay attention to it

 

LoyalePowerWindows023.jpgloosen the fender, the two famous bolts behind the

bumper can stay in place

 

LoyalePowerWindows018.jpgdon't panic, my fender was wrinkled last November sliding into a ditch - not doing this

 

LoyalePowerWindows019.jpgnow you can actually get to the door hinge bolts

 

LoyalePowerWindows020.jpg I'm not too worried about my paint, it was ok to just

set it down gently

 

LoyalePowerWindows022.jpg awesome overview of mess

 

LoyalePowerWindows021.jpg pull the grommet off the door frame and feed the wire

bundle through

 

LoyalePowerWindows025.jpgset it down to work on it

 

thereitis.jpg

I cut the factory tape off and here is the whole problem, the wires

broke from rubbing on the edge of the door cutout after 19 years

 

I wasn't expecting the main ground to be broken, the driver window

still worked (after I had replaced the main power wire on top of the

existing bundle)- by grounding out through some other part

of the bundle, but the passenger side didn't work at all. When I

added the new power wire on top of the existing bundle, apparently the

main ground finally gave up and broke,

disconnecting the passenger side - just like flicking the window lock

 

your passenger circuit has to be complete at this panel otherwise it won't work from either door

 

repairedbundle.jpg

repaired bundle with fresh wire and splices

 

LoyalePowerWindows033.jpg

you don't need to cut this grommet, I had already cut

it to run the previous repair , I added a little atv so that it would seal

after I taped it all back up and put it in

 

LoyalePowerWindows034.jpg

re-taped a little too far, had to take some off later - no big

 

LoyalePowerWindows031.jpg

re-connected to make sure it worked before I buttoned it up

 

LoyalePowerWindows032.jpg

same as above

 

LoyalePowerWindows035.jpg

I hung it off the striker and used the outline from the

hinge sealant to get it back in place, it was off about 2-3 mm at the

striker with the bolts snug. I just jockeyed it around until it lined up

and closed correctly - then tightened the bolts fully

 

In hindsight, it was much easier to pull the fender loose and drop the door than it was to try and fix the wiring in place -

and it didn't take very long either; definitely one of those easier to bite the bullet than try to get around it affairs

 

hope this helps some other soul save time and frustration

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under the carpet in the passenger side foot well there is a bundle of 5 red wires that on my car were corroded to the point that none of the windows worked. i found this out after i pulled the door off took the entire wiring harness out of the door unwrapped and checked every wire. also the location of the relay and control unit is under the pass front seat close to the door jam. so if only one of the windows doesnt work then all of the sudden none of them work i'd check that first.

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