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oil pump o-rings ?


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I'm doing a nose job on my 94 loyale. I decided to do the oil pump seals because I decided at over 200,000 it was bad luck to neglect it. I found the mickey mouse o-ring that is the installation gasket at one place , and the oil seal behind the gear that is apparently generic at the other place. Is the o-ring on the shaft just a standard o-ring? Nobody has this thing as OEM, including the dealer(lame). Shouldn't somebody get a bunch of o-rings and shaft seals and somehow get the MM o-ring gaskets(the hard part) and sell it on ebay?

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Had no luck at the dealer or the oem subaru links i have. Thanks for the anxiety though. I would get oem by habit. One of the mouse ears was sucked in or installed wrong originally so I'm glad I took it out. I'm getting tired of waiting for the UPS guy for ten days. I remember seeing the oem oil pumps. Good practice maybe getting a new one anyway on a 200,000 mile car. Good grief. I'm not spending any more until this thing is rolling so the die is cast. If anybody has a oem link that's nice but I'm pretty sure I checked that.

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do your self a favor and get the Subaru O-rings. They are superior to replacment o-rings. I put napa o-rings in mine and have had then fail within 5k miles. Put OE o-rings in and have had NO problem what so ever

 

Just for clarification, orings are orings are orings.... Its just a matter of knowing what type of material your using and what firmness.

 

Usually when people go to "insert store here" and find and oring thats moderately the right size, they don't ask what type of oring it is. 99% of what stores keep in stock is Buna-N. Buna-N is a universal material that has both decent petroleum resistance, and decent water resistance. They are temperature resistant to about 250 degrees farenheit. After researching all the specs and recommendations for different types of orings, The most readily available, decent material that I can find in the metric sizes for subaru o-rings is Viton. Their hardness is about right (70 or 75), they have greater oil resistance and their temperature rating puts them at being able to handle 400 degrees farenheit.

 

For small quantities I recommend trying McMaster-Carr (http://www.McMaster.com) They have a really good selection of metric viton stuff. Some of the more common sizes they even have in Viton-E (even more superior of a material)

 

Also it is wise to pay attention to how much pressure is required to make your oring fit. With a light coat of dielectric grease, the oring installed should not alter the torque specs of bolts. If you have to cram/stretch that oring into place, its probably to much stress on it and it will fail due to excessive pressure.

 

Good luck with your o-ring hunt.

-Mike

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There should be one small o'ring on the pressure port. The rest of the pump is sealed with sealant.

 

That's on an EA81 engine. On the EA82, it's the "mickey mouse gasket" o-ring. Very different setup.

 

Call Mike Scarff Subaru in Auburn, WA and ask for Jason in parts.

866 528 5282

He knows all about these engines and can hook you up with anything you need. Their prices are also good, and they ship stuff quickly. I've bought over $5000 in parts from them and have never had a bad experience.

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Ok, I will give Jason a call. I dunno its just conflicting information. The chiltons says there is one, but doesn't show it on a exploded view of the pump? The dealer here in Springbilly says there isn't an O-ring? But here on the forms I've heard there is an O-ring to replace when doing a nose job on an ej22.???:confused::rolleyes::confused:

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This is strictly for EJ engines, which it sounds like he's working on..

On ALL of the EJ engines, there is 2 things that need to be replaced when doing the oil pump, and a couple other things that need to be done to the parts that are there.

 

1. The o-ring that seals the pressure port needs to be replaced, and preferably SILICONED IN PLACE with a **Very** light coat of goo just on the inside of that o-ring. Yes, Glue it into the engine block. Dont go excessive on the goo, or it will end up in your oil system = bad.

2. Replace the crank seal while the oil pump is off. Common sense, it's already apart.

 

When you disassemble and remove the oil pump, keep track of which way the crank is facing, you will notice 2 flats on the crank and 2 flats on the oil pump. These need to line up on assembly, or it wont go back together.

Be careful not to catch the lip of the crank seal on the crank when you assemble it.

 

While it's apart, you will find a metal plate screwed to the back of the pump with 5 screws, these are usually (and NEED TO BE) very tight. Loose screws here will cause pressurized oil leaking at that plate, which will blow out your silicone sealant and leak oil all over the front of your engine, not to mention causing the "lifter tick" due to lowered oil pressure.

IF you can loosen these screws, remove them, blow out the holes with brake cleaner or something that eats oil, and assemble with RED lock-tite and an Impact screwdriver. You dont ever want them coming back out... :D

 

To assemble on the engine, remember to glue the o-ring in place, coat the OIL PUMP mating surface with a quality silicone such as Permatex ULTRA GRAY, make sure there's no oil on the block surface, make sure your drive flats on the pump and the crank are lined up, and squish it back together. You should see a small line of squished silicone coming out the seam all the way around the oil pump, this lets you know you used enough.

 

That's about it, unless you pull out the oil pump gears, in which case you need to re-time them by lining the dots up on the gears when you assemble it. This shouldnt be a necessary step.

 

Hope this helps!!

 

88RxTuner

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Does your dealer know it's an EJ engine you are working with?? Every single dealer in the US will carry that o-ring. Hopefully he doesnt have it confused with the EA oil pumps, in which case there is only the "mickey mouse" o-ring.

Make sure you inform whom-ever that you are working on an EJ engine!

 

88RxTuner

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Ok, thanks Rx I'll ask again at the dealer. I'll ask for the "pressure port o-ring". Does anyone know of a good exploded view drawing of the ej22 oil pump?

In addition the chiltons is asking to measure the distance between the rotor and walls and some other measurement. It states that if this is OT then replace them. Is this really necessary? I have to add that I have 250xxx miles on my ej22 and i'm doing this nose job, 1). for experience 2). cuz its my daily driver and I want to continue driving it for awhile.

 

Still need a set of TB covers also, if anyone knows of a good set with bolts.

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Have you ever ran it out of oil?

Have you ever subjected the lube system to abrasives?

 

Generally, the EA oil pumps will last indefinitely provided the above 2 conditions have not occurred. Very little actual wear takes place in the pump.

What you can do, is when you have the back plate off, lift out the gears (taking note how they are oriented) and visually inspect the sealing and bearing surfaces (where the gears come together and where the gears ride on the pump under the gears) for obvious scoring or galling. Some minor scoring is normal, and acceptable, but if it looks like someone dumped sand into it and scrubbed it around you've got problems. The normal galling should be concentric and circular, following the movement of the gears.

 

I'm not exactly sure what it's called, but if you bring up that you have an EJ engine your dealer should be able to come up with the correct o-ring.

 

88RxTuner

Edited by 88RxTuner
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Does your dealer know it's an EJ engine you are working with?? Every single dealer in the US will carry that o-ring. Hopefully he doesnt have it confused with the EA oil pumps, in which case there is only the "mickey mouse" o-ring.

Make sure you inform whom-ever that you are working on an EJ engine!

 

88RxTuner

 

 

Yea the dealer had the O-ring and crank seal for my ej22...I guess I didn't ask for the right part.

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