Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board
The Dude Abides

Anyone ever make a tool

Recommended Posts

I've made lots of tools over the years - latest is a Chrysler 2.2/2.5 crank timing sprocket puller. It's a 5-bolt pattern and there's no way to get to the front main seal without pulling this sprocket off. They wanted $85 plus shipping online for the tool..... $137 locally..... not happening. :rolleyes:

 

My version is about the same:

 

chrysler_puller.jpg

 

Cut a disc from a 3" peice of shafting - faced it, marked center and bolt-circle on the lathe then drilled and tapped for a 1/2"x20 puller ram (borrowed from another puller), and then layed out the 5 bolt pattern and drilled that. Took about an hour. Saved me $100 :)

 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

here is one for the 4-speed DR guys.

 

Instead of having to machine a 35mm socket down...

 

Buy a $10 35mm impact socket from Napa, shorten it, then weld a flat washer and a bolt head to it. :banana:

 

4speed12.jpg

 

4speed13.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Things I've tried over the years....and have pictures of:

 

Volkswagen CIS injector seals. A Sharpie marker body works great for rolling those tough Viton seals over the injector tip.

21647110379_medium.jpg

 

Removing the strut cartridge insert top nut. Jack handle on a pair of channel locks.

21647110176_medium.jpg

 

Camshaft sprocket nut removal. A piece of scrap aluminum with a slot in it. Two bolts/nuts with sockets to stabilize the shaft while removing the nut.

21647110313_medium.jpg

 

Timing hole cover - VW's have this plastic hex nut that covers the hole on the top of the transmission (for you boxer motor guys, that's because the Cabriolet motor sits SIDEWAYS :brow:). I ground down a PVC pipe fitting to fit the hex and then drilled a hole for an small hex wrench to turn it.

21647110261_medium.jpg

 

A friend of mine was helping replace my Legacy's rear struts. But since we couldn't get a spring compressor before the shop closed, he improvised with a rope and a breaker bar to twist it. I HIGHLY discourage anybody from attempting this recipe for disaster (but we still did both rear springs :P) I have a proper spring compressor now. :)

20358020016_medium.jpg20358020024_medium.jpg

 

And drifting off to completely unrelated auto tools.....I made a clamping block out of old kitchen drawer knobs when repairing the bridge on my guitar.

6185554120_medium.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

When I was doing my trans the other week, I ordered a 36mm socket for the big nut on the back of the main shaft. When it arrived, it turned out to be 3/4 drive instead of 1/2 drive. I don't know if it was their fault or mine, but either way I didn't want to wait for a replacement or buy another one so I made this adapter. It's a 3/4 square on one side and a 7/8 hex on the other. Made it out of some O1, hardened it and added it to the box!

 

PICT0182.jpg

 

PICT0183.jpg

 

 

HAHA! It's awesome that you made your own and everything, but they carry a 1/2-->3/4 adapter at Sears.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i took the loooong 14mm 'bolt" from the nac idler pulley from an ea82 and use it to pull the plugs out of the block to get at wrist pins. not all of them came with that bolt. some are different like, they arent hex all the way down. i painted mine red, thus making a tool lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just made a gen-2 H6 crank holder, the crank pulley has 4 12mm holes on a 65mm circle, the subaru tool is just 4 pins welded into holes in a thick plate with a handle, with a big hole in the middle to clear the crank bolt socket.

 

I didn't have 12mm pins or thick sheet metal 9or thin plate) so the plate that holds the pins is 3 pieces of 16ga mild steel brazed at the edges and around the center hole.

 

7/16 bolts are close to 12mm but to give me some fudge factor I used 3/8 grade-8 bolts, brazed at the top only so as to not weaken them.

 

If they twist I'll have to braze 'em at the bottom too, or just pull 'em out and use nuts and bolts (I didn't want to space it out from the crank by using nuts).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×