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Ok, I just got my new (rebuilt) axle from MWE Axle's. Quick service and got what I needed. Problem is, some flanges on it are bent. I want to know if these ride against the seals or if they just keep crud out.

 

Here is what I am talking about.

 

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Also, are there any seals that need to be replaced when I do this?

 

And because of salt rust I do not want to pop the ball joint because I am afraid I will break the bolt. Can I pop it out of the control arm with a puller? If so how does this compare to doing it by disconnection the strut?

 

Thanks,

x_25

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i was doing it by seperating the ball joint from the control arm until recently. now i think marking the top strut bolt and then disconnecting the strut is easier. i used a big cold chisel to mark the edge of the bolt and the edge of the strut bracket right where they are about 1/4 inch apart. i'll add a pic if it stops raining.

 

i don't know about the axle, but i've installed used without ever looking at them, no problem.

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I have found there are two pretty easy ways to replace these axles...1 being drop the control arm from the body 2 19mm and from the mount 1 17mm...or undo the castle nut from the ball joint (19mm)and undo 1 of the 14mm's from the sway bar and knock the control arm loose w/ a hammer...personally i like this way...as for the those little bends... personally I wouldnt really worry about it...You could try and knock them back a little with a hammer or something...I have never replaced one of these axles by disconnecting the strut...

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Undoing the strut bolts is the easiest way by far for EJ cars.

 

Those bends in the dust shield are fine, just bend them back a hair so they don't scrape or drag.

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Yah my MWE was like that too, I just bent them back. Yes I have had the easiest results undoing the strut to bearing housing bolts for axles.

 

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I don't see what the big deal is with taking the ball joint out of the control arm and pulling it down. If you do the strut, you have to get the car realigned. If you do the ball joint you don't. Personally, I don't want to have the car realigned if I don't have too.

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I keep cheap white spray paint to mark strut and bolt locations if I need to undo the strut bolts.

 

I usually seperate it at the balljoint. As I'm in the rustbelt if I ruin the BJ no biggie - chances are the boot was ripped or wimpy anyways.

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I don't see what the big deal is with taking the ball joint out of the control arm and pulling it down. If you do the strut, you have to get the car realigned. If you do the ball joint you don't. Personally, I don't want to have the car realigned if I don't have too.

 

Pinch and un-pinch that casting a few times and eventually it can get brittle and snap. I had that happen once, and had to then replace the whole knuckle.

 

After I saw that happen, to my own car(so I know it wasn't the result of abuse), I vowed never to remove a balljoint from a knuckle unless I HAD to, either for replacement or for pressing a bearing. Not just for axles.

 

Besides, it is WAY easier than trying to wrestle that rusty, pinched, joint out of the knuckle. When you unbolt the strut mount, it all just pivots out and back toghether effortlessly.

 

Besides, the Camber adjustment on this cars is not that big of an issue. The Toe is unchanged. As long as you set the bolts back to even CLOSE to their original marks, all will be fine. I ussually just set both sides to the most negative camber possible, best for handling.

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I don't see what the big deal is with taking the ball joint out of the control arm and pulling it down. If you do the strut, you have to get the car realigned. If you do the ball joint you don't. Personally, I don't want to have the car realigned if I don't have too.

 

The big thing is there is a long rusty bolt in a hard to reach place that needs to be taken out to do it. If it breaks I will be there all day with the drill getting it out.

 

As far as alignment, that side happens to be out a bit anyway (inside of the tire is worn more than the outside) so I need to get the alignment done anyway.

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I said to take it out of the control arm NOT the knuckle. Take the castle nut off and then hit the control arm with a BFH and you are done. It works like a charm.

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