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2 inch tube lift?

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I am trying to do the two inch tube lift.I can't seem to get the strut down far enough to get both blocks on.This is an EA81 BTW. I was able to get one block on(the one towards the front but the back one I cant even get the block anywhere near the stud in the strut.

 

Am i supposed to undo more of the suspension to get the clearance or what?How am I actually supposed to get the block in?

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got the front in, although the camber on one tire is a bit wierd.i will see if it settles after i drive it around the block.

 

to crank the back up which way do I turn the nut?I am trying to turn it clockwise looking towards the front and it is very hard.I am using a tire iron and I still can barely get it to budge.I suppose I could try a breaker bar as well but this is rediculus.

 

 

How fast will it eat axles?

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You'll be fine for a while, mike ran with 3" in the front of his hatch, they made noise but drive it till they go................. you'll know how bad your axles are right off the bat........................................................

 

Jeff

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I cant turn the rear adjusters up very much than I guess.I cranked it up and gained an inch in the back.With no lift in the back I am at 16.5" from the hub to the top edge of the fender.I dunno but something tells me it should be more.

 

That and I now have 9" under the front skid plate and 8" under the rear diff? doesnt seem right. unless the back end was lower than the front for some reason...I thought that the clearance under the rear diff was normally higher than the front?

 

 

My springs must be shot

look what I found

 

 

"4wd Station wagon GL: 8.3" with adjustable suspension up to 9.3"

 

so then with a two inch lift it puts me .3" less than what stock should be maxed out WTF.

 

Although a friend does have some 235/75/15 all terrains I can have for free.Now to find some 15" 6lug chevies...

Edited by Uberoo

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I cant turn the rear adjusters up very much than I guess.I cranked it up and gained an inch in the back.With no lift in the back I am at 16.5" from the hub to the top edge of the fender.I dunno but something tells me it should be more.

 

That and I now have 9" under the front skid plate and 8" under the rear diff? doesnt seem right. unless the back end was lower than the front for some reason...I thought that the clearance under the rear diff was normally higher than the front?

 

 

My springs must be shot

look what I found

 

 

"4wd Station wagon GL: 8.3" with adjustable suspension up to 9.3"

 

so then with a two inch lift it puts me .3" less than what stock should be maxed out WTF.

 

Although a friend does have some 235/75/15 all terrains I can have for free.Now to find some 15" 6lug chevies...

 

Are you using an air gun or a ratchet? if you use a gun up she will go!!!

 

Should look like this all said and done, if you put the 235's on it!!!

codyshatch001.jpg

 

(and it where a hatch):)

 

 

Jeff

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so than use an air gun should get me to 10" under the rear diff?When do I know when to stop? after the back end on the hatch was cranked up what was the clearance under the rear diff before the bigger tires?

 

 

I am still not sure because I was using a small tire iron and it wouldnt budge. When it is cranked up all the way does the rear end sit level with the front?

Edited by Uberoo

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so than use an air gun should get me to 10" under the rear diff?When do I know when to stop? after the back end on the hatch was cranked up what was the clearance under the rear diff before the bigger tires?

 

 

I am still not sure because I was using a small tire iron and it wouldnt budge. When it is cranked up all the way does the rear end sit level with the front?

 

It should sit the same as the front with the 2" blocks

 

Jeff

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My front settled and now looks like its lower than the rear due to the body lines. although looking at measurements under the skidplade and rear diff its higher than the rear.

 

Is the clearance under the rear diff supposed to be more or less than the front diff?

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lmFAO..................ahh thats good ************ right there.....:)

 

if it breaks, replace the assembly and adjust the next one 1/4 turn less.

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do you have the car off of the ground when you are trying to adjust it?because you need to have the rear in the air to properly adjust the bolt.otherwise it will not workm and yes you could break it.and when you break it, you will need to retieve the bolt from the hole and replace it,if you can...which will not be easy.

 

 

If it breaks will that drop the car or would it just make it so it cant be adjusted ever again?

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Most definitely jack the rear of the car off the ground...when I spun the bolt all the way up on my '82 wagon, I gained about an inch. On my hatch, I gained a bit less for some reason...

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so then cranking the nut up all the way yields about an inch of additional height?I gained an inch but the front skidplate is higher than the rear diff.

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The body lines should be the same, or flat, the skid plate will be a bit lower than the rear end................

 

Jeff

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The body lines should be the same, or flat, the skid plate will be a bit lower than the rear end................

 

Jeff

 

roger roger.

 

 

 

my friend who is giving me the 235's has an air impact wench..So I will just crank it up when I go to get tires...Now I have to save up for some rims...

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Its lifted, its just I have been working on a demolition derby car.As soon as I am done with that I will pick up the 235's and some 15" nissan wheels...and get some pics...

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pics arnt much to look at,other than a little more hieght and a front fender cut out to fit the 235's.I suppose I might be able to get pics tomarrow.

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