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greenleg88

crank pulley wobbling?!?! and some strange noise

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okay. thanks for all that.

ill try to get all that done soon..

 

 

can someone tell me how taught the belt is supposed to be.. how much deflection?

 

my friend did it based on feel.. but id rather have something more reassuring. if possible..

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i think the FSM says less than 1" of deflection but i can't remember what the force is supposed to be...

 

when i did my 2.2 swap, i took the advice of someone here, start loose, if it squeals, tighten it up. this approach helps avoid over tightening and possible damage.

 

if it starts off squealing just a little, it will get worse if left unaddressed. and it will deposit black soot-like rubber on your alt. and other stuff.

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ALL DONE! its all better now.

 

 

 

i just tightened the belt back to where it was.. there was dirt on the screw... so i could tell where it was.... so i was pretty close to where it was before i took the belt off.

 

thanks for all the help!

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okay so i just went down to begin.. but first i just checked the tighness of the bolt holding the pulley on.. and it came loose without any effort.

 

 

upon tightening the whole system just spins.. i remember we put my friends car in gear. but i have an automatic...

 

 

'Scuse me but I got lost after this post.

 

Did you get the crank pulley bolt tightened?

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'Scuse me but I got lost after this post.

 

Did you get the crank pulley bolt tightened?

 

 

i did. i followed what the other posters directed me to.

I took off the intake. and found htat rubber piece. Stuck a tire iron into the slot to lock the driveplate in place and the torqued the pulley to 100 lbs.

 

its spinning like normal now. and that sound is gone.

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great job on catching this in time with mine I did the water pump and didn't torque the bolt enough and the woodriff key ground the center of the pulley out but i use it as an excuse to get a lightweight pulley as a replacement

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hokay.. so the wobbling is back.. its probably been 500 miles since i tightened it.

 

im hoping its becasue my friends torque wrench is wrong... but if not.. what could cause the pulley to wobble again...

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The first thing to do is to try tightening the crank pulley bolt again. You do not need to loosen or remove any accessory drive belts to do that. If the wobble goes away again, it probably just indicates that you didn't tighten the bolt sufficiently last time.

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i tightened it to 115 or so.. it looks a little better. but im not feeling to confident about it honestly.

 

i also just pulled the two CEL codes - P0301 and p0302 - Misfire in cylinders 1 and 2 right?

 

 

any words of advice?

 

thanks.

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i tightened it to 115 or so.. it looks a little better. but im not feeling to confident about it honestly.

''A little better'' wouldn't make me comfortable, either. If you think there's still too much wobble, reread the posts in this thread where I and others explained what the possible causes are.

 

 

i also just pulled the two CEL codes - P0301 and p0302 - Misfire in cylinders 1 and 2 right?

Yes, those are codes for misfire in the two cylinders at the front of the engine. They're of course in different banks, but one of the things they have in common is sharing an ignition coil in the pack.

 

EDIT: If the CEL came on about the same time that the crank pulley wobble reappeared, it has me wondering if there's a problem in the area of the crank nose and key -- perhaps the crank sprocket isn't properly positioned, and the crank sensor isn't getting good pulses from the reluctor on the sprocket.

Edited by OB99W

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Maybe the bolt is stretched or something. If in doubt, replace the bolt and also the key. I think they should be replaced when doing the timing belt. The cost is small compared to the other parts involved.

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i thought this was at least a 125 torque spec, if not 140 ft lb.

A 2.5's bolt can be tightened to the higher torque -- it's risky on a 2.2, which if I remember correctly, the one in question is. I'm wondering if there was some damage done when the pulley was originally loose.

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It may be a good idea to check the rubber for cracks when changing the timing belt. I replaced the pulley because of that.
My balancer separated on my 98 EJ25. It ate all off the plastic cover in the front of the engine causing a massive oil leak.

 

It was not pretty.

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i thought this was at least a 125 torque spec, if not 140 ft lb.

 

FSM says 94 +/- 7 ft-lb

Edited by greenleg88
incorrect source

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well i had a 93 2.2 lego with 'bolt wobble' which finally gave up and boogered the crank keyway and both pulleys. i had to have that one ''glued" back together. (i know, not the best solution, but it ran until i wrecked it.) on my 95, i noticed the problem and corrected it before it got out of hand.

 

i don't see the difference between the ej22 and the ej25 as far as the crank bolt torque spec goes. they use the same bolt, key, pulley, and the cranks are made the same. at the very least, i'd add some thread lok to prevent the loosening.

 

both of my wobble cars seemed to have been worked on by non subaru shops. the 93 is dead and gone, but the 95 has 195k miles and is being beaten to death by a college student. it has about 25k on the wobble bolt repair and timing belt. i had everything replaced when i did it, since i wasn't sure if i was going to be able to go back into it after using the thread lok.

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i don't see the difference between the ej22 and the ej25 as far as the crank bolt torque spec goes. they use the same bolt, key, pulley, and the cranks are made the same. at the very least, i'd add some thread lok to prevent the loosening.

There have been some reports here of the bolt shearing off on 2.2s at about 125 ft-lb, which is why I said 140 ft-lb could be ''risky''. It's possible the bolts that broke were already stressed.

 

More to the point, even 115 ft-lb should easily be sufficient to seat the crank pulley if nothing else is wrong, so if there's still a wobble, further investigation should be done. Once the current problems are dealt with (besides the pulley wobble, there's apparently a misfire issue), thread locking agent could certainly be used.

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If memory serves, there are two different part numbers for the crank bolt although they may look the same. We do know there are two different pulleys. Maybe one bolt is stronger and can be tightened to a higher torque than the other. FSM for my 2.2 says something like 67-76 lb*ft but people say it's incorrect so I tightened to 90, using a new bolt, and keep checking from time to time.

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jeebus. The bolt came loose AGAIN! what is the deal here?! i was driving to work and i heard the belt squeeling and i popped the hood at a red light and sure enough it was loose again. i parked it and hopped in my friends car who was behind me.

 

the CEL just came on like two days ago. and yesterday was the first time i really drove it. since it came on. i was going to get the code read last night but the code reader i used didnt work so really ill get it this afternoon.

 

the idle was strange yesterday and ive gotten throttle pos. sensor before.

but the last CEL was a misfire in 1 and 3 about a week or so ago.

 

 

could any damage from the wobbling crank pulley cause misfiring?

 

 

my plan of action is: buy a new bolt, take the pulley off and inspect the key and if good, crank it back on with some loctite. then monitor.

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new pulley, new bolt, new key, inspect the crank sprocket, replace if needed, inspect the keyway.

 

clean the threads with brake cleen.

torque to spec, with thread lok.

 

how are you holding the crank when torquing?

what torque wrench are you using? is it accurate?

Edited by johnceggleston

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new pulley, new bolt, new key, inspect the crank sprocket, replace if needed, inspect the keyway.

 

clean the threads with brake cleen.

torque to spec, with thread lok.

 

how are you holding the crank when torquing?

what torque wrench are you using? is it accurate?

 

the keyway on the pulley is ruined. im looking for a new pulley. (anyone?) the key looks a little messed up too... is that just a pop off force on new one?

 

crank sprocket doesnt look bad... from what i can see..

 

ive been using two craftsman torque wrenches. one was a basic one adn the second time it was the digital one.

supposedly theyre accurate to 2% or osmething..

 

im holding the crank by throwing in a tire iron into the drive plate by taking off the intake and dropping a bar into the slot under the throttle body.

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Ok so I just bought a 98 lego today and I noticed the very same thing. :mad:Obviously more will have to be done and looked into but from what I'm reading, the car shouldnt be driven at all. In order for me to get it home (which I'm doing tuesday) I'd have to drive it a good 50 miles. Is this something we should take care of before we leave town or do you think it would survive the trip?

 

Thanks

Crys

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