987687 Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Put the battery on the charger in the XT6 to see if I could get the average voltage up. Seemed to help over the weekend, but by work time this morning, it's back to it's slow cranking again. It's got to be that battery, but it's only a year old..... If the battery is fine for a few days after you charge it, then acts up again. It sounds like the alternator isn't charging the battery properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subyrally Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 i installed HID headlights into my wrx on saturday. i can see at night again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 If the battery is fine for a few days after you charge it, then acts up again. It sounds like the alternator isn't charging the battery properly. That was my first thought, but when I had the alternator checked, it was fine. When I pulled the alternator, I noticed the two prong plug was crumbling and the two wires were touching each other. I fixed that, but it made no difference. I'm having the battery and the charging system checked tomorrow. It's got to be one of those two... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 That was my first thought, but when I had the alternator checked, it was fine. When I pulled the alternator, I noticed the two prong plug was crumbling and the two wires were touching each other. I fixed that, but it made no difference. I'm having the battery and the charging system checked tomorrow. It's got to be one of those two... Have you checked the wiring from the alternator to the battery? Put one probe of the meter on the power out post on the alt. and the other on the positive of the battery. See how much voltage drop you're getting. How many volts at the battery when the engine is idling, and at cruising RPM? If the alternator and battery are both fine, but still not charging correctly. You have a wiring issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Have you checked the wiring from the alternator to the battery?Put one probe of the meter on the power out post on the alt. and the other on the positive of the battery. See how much voltage drop you're getting. How many volts at the battery when the engine is idling, and at cruising RPM? If the alternator and battery are both fine, but still not charging correctly. You have a wiring issue. Yea, I checked that too. There's about .007 volt drop between the alternator and the battery. It sits at ~14.2v at idle and 14.8V at 3000 rpms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortysayhi Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Yesterday i washed my car, and had to pull of one of the door trim pieces and found a big nice bar of rust that was under that trim piece. . Once i got home today from Just driving up my driveway my subi was all covered in mud!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Replaced the power steering pump in the XT6. Yay! No more intermittent Steering light! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Bought a 94 ej22, picking it up later this week. Hopefully an end to having engine issues with my LGT.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DUBSnSUBS Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Little Clod meets Big Buck, Winners 0, Losers 2. I think I just wanna cry now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Little Clod meets Big Buck, Winners 0, Losers 2. I think I just wanna cry now. !! Ouch!!, wow, I feel for you my friend. That is painful to look at I can imagine how painful it was to experience. She got you home though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DUBSnSUBS Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Yep, he got me home alright, had to sit up straight to see over the hood. Think I had one headlight shining, but it was pointed toward Jupiter or maybe Mars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Yep, he got me home alright, had to sit up straight to see over the hood. Think I had one headlight shining, but it was pointed toward Jupiter or maybe Mars. you sure it wasn't the Pleiades ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DUBSnSUBS Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Yippee, all the lights still work, inspection ready! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 Dropped the rear diff and fuel tank out of my '83 GL. Need a new fuel tank! zzzzzz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 Little Clod meets Big Buck, Winners 0, Losers 2. I think I just wanna cry now. No like seeing that. But do feel your pain...... But it does look like a "centered" hit. Fenders look good, headlight trim looks intact. Hood, and radiator support took most of the hit, along with the grille. Radiator support can be straightened, grille and hood can be replaced. A/C condensor may/may not be damaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 (edited) What HAVEN'T I done to my Subaru recently? Christmas time, I smell coolant in the car and it is getting steamy, so I put in a bypass on the heater core. ( I am too far away from tools to fix it...) A few days later I find the problem was actually a leaky heater hose, when the engine overheats due to a lack of coolant. The headgaskets survive this escapade, but the thermostat does not, it fails wide open (could be worse). I still do not trust the heater core, so I drive it home, 1400 km, in -10 deg. C temperatures, with no heat in the car and a piece of cardboard across the rad to keep the engine temperature more or less off the lower peg. A few days later after returning home, in the middle of a cold snap, and in the process of trying to find a heater core, the timing belt strips a dozen teeth. Between the cold, trouble shooting and waiting for parts, the car is down for 2 weeks or more. I have no idea why the belt went, it had only 80,000 km on it, 90,000 is the (usually) safe change interval, and all pulleys, idlers etc. were replaced with the last belts and are still free running and in good shape. Next, I notice the front passenger side wheel bearing is starting to make noise. I obtain new bearings from the local bearing house, and pull it apart. I discover the reason the bearing went bad is because the inner seal is gone. I don't absolutely trust the seals on the 6207's, as this inner seal gets the worst of the mud and water, and fortunately, the local Canadian Tire actually has a couple in stock!! Miracle!! While working on the bearing, I find the caliper I replaced last May has frozen. The inner pad is worn to nothing and the rotor is pretty much gone as well. Thinking I would be nice to CT, as they had the seal I needed, I order caliper, pads and rotor from them. They claim they have them in stock, 4 days to get them in town. 2 WEEKS later I finally get the parts. And the caliper is not right. In fact, it has "TOYOTA" cast into its frame. I take it back, and they give me my money back, and don't even ask any questions. So down the road to the independent. He can get me one, for a very good price - but it will take 2 weeks! NO, NOT AGAIN! So further down the road to NAPA. They can get me one in 2 days, but it will cost $100. Ouch, but I am tired of driving a car with only half a brake system. The caliper arrives, and it looks like the right one, but it is totally bare, no handbrake bracket or carrier. It is a hacksaw job to free up the old carrier, and then I try to bolt on the handbrake bracket. The bolts do not fit, the caliper is drilled and tapped M12x1.25 instead of M8x1.25. Hell with it, I want to drive a car with brakes, even if there is no handbrake until I can find bigger bolts. I return the core, and get no sympathy from NAPA, nor do they have any bolts. Down the road to the industrial supplier, who has bolts that fit, sort of. All I have to do is cut off 10 mm of length, and file the 19 mm heads down to 17 mm so there is clearance between the 2 heads for a socket. I go to bolt the bracket on, and discover that only one hole is tapped! And I don't have an M12X1.25 tap. So today, I try to find an M12x1.5 bolt, so I can put the last bolt into the bracket. At least the brakes work better, and there is a hand brake, even if it is held on by a single bolt. And now, the rear brakes are making noise. It started while driving around with the frozen caliper, etc., waiting for parts. It is the left rear, the diagonal buddy of the front right, so I had hoped proper parts and good bleeding at the front would fix it, but it seems not. It is a rubbing noise, that eventually gets really loud, but goes away if I just ride the brake a bit. At least the heater core is OK. Edited March 7, 2012 by robm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 What HAVEN'T I done to my Subaru recently? Christmas time, I smell coolant in the car and it is getting steamy, so I put in a bypass on the heater core. ( I am too far away from tools to fix it...) A few days later I find the problem was actually a leaky heater hose, when the engine overheats due to a lack of coolant. The headgaskets survive this escapade, but the thermostat does not, it fails wide open (could be worse). I still do not trust the heater core, so I drive it home, 1400 km, in -10 deg. C temperatures, with no heat in the car and a piece of cardboard across the rad to keep the engine temperature more or less off the lower peg. A few days later after returning home, in the middle of a cold snap, and in the process of trying to find a heater core, the timing belt strips a dozen teeth. Between the cold, trouble shooting and waiting for parts, the car is down for 2 weeks or more. I have no idea why the belt went, it had only 80,000 km on it, 90,000 is the (usually) safe change interval, and all pulleys, idlers etc. were replaced with the last belts and are still free running and in good shape. Next, I notice the front passenger side wheel bearing is starting to make noise. I obtain new bearings from the local bearing house, and pull it apart. I discover the reason the bearing went bad is because the inner seal is gone. I don't absolutely trust the seals on the 6207's, as this inner seal gets the worst of the mud and water, and fortunately, the local Canadian Tire actually has a couple in stock!! Miracle!! While working on the bearing, I find the caliper I replaced last May has frozen. The inner pad is worn to nothing and the rotor is pretty much gone as well. Thinking I would be nice to CT, as they had the seal I needed, I order caliper, pads and rotor from them. They claim they have them in stock, 4 days to get them in town. 2 WEEKS later I finally get the parts. And the caliper is not right. In fact, it has "TOYOTA" cast into its frame. I take it back, and they give me my money back, and don't even ask any questions. So down the road to the independent. He can get me one, for a very good price - but it will take 2 weeks! NO, NOT AGAIN! So further down the road to NAPA. They can get me one in 2 days, but it will cost $100. Ouch, but I am tired of driving a car with only half a brake system. The caliper arrives, and it looks like the right one, but it is totally bare, no handbrake bracket or carrier. It is a hacksaw job to free up the old carrier, and then I try to bolt on the handbrake bracket. The bolts do not fit, the caliper is drilled and tapped M12x1.25 instead of M8x1.25. Hell with it, I want to drive a car with brakes, even if there is no handbrake until I can find bigger bolts. I return the core, and get no sympathy from NAPA, nor do they have any bolts. Down the road to the industrial supplier, who has bolts that fit, sort of. All I have to do is cut off 10 mm of length, and file the 19 mm heads down to 17 mm so there is clearance between the 2 heads for a socket. I go to bolt the bracket on, and discover that only one hole is tapped! And I don't have an M12X1.25 tap. So today, I try to find an M12x1.5 bolt, so I can put the last bolt into the bracket. At least the brakes work better, and there is a hand brake, even if it is held on by a single bolt. And now, the rear brakes are making noise. It started while driving around with the frozen caliper, etc., waiting for parts. It is the left rear, the diagonal buddy of the front right, so I had hoped proper parts and good bleeding at the front would fix it, but it seems not. It is a rubbing noise, that eventually gets really loud, but goes away if I just ride the brake a bit. At least the heater core is OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unsp0kn Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Installed two toggle switches and a momentary toggle switch for acc, run and starter in the RX. OEM switch was bad and I couldn't shut the car off. The muffler is finally getting installed so it isn't deafening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortysayhi Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Took this off of my New parts car, and installed it on mine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Took this off of my New parts car, and installed it on mine! Cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 What HAVEN'T I done to my Subaru recently? those timing belts (factory belts) are rated for 52,500 miles or 84 490.56km. If they are cheap, they won't always last that long. also the cold can make them brittle near the end of their life span. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Put another engine in my car. hopefully it's the last damn time I have to put an engine in my car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1982gl4 Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Just got pulled over for the first time ever. I guess it's time to quiet down my legacy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 What HAVEN'T I done to my Subaru recently? Christmas time, I smell coolant in the car and it is getting steamy, so I put in a bypass on the heater core. ( I am too far away from tools to fix it...) A few days later I find the problem was actually a leaky heater hose, when the engine overheats due to a lack of coolant. The headgaskets survive this escapade, but the thermostat does not, it fails wide open (could be worse). I still do not trust the heater core, so I drive it home, 1400 km, in -10 deg. C temperatures, with no heat in the car and a piece of cardboard across the rad to keep the engine temperature more or less off the lower peg. A few days later after returning home, in the middle of a cold snap, and in the process of trying to find a heater core, the timing belt strips a dozen teeth. Between the cold, trouble shooting and waiting for parts, the car is down for 2 weeks or more. I have no idea why the belt went, it had only 80,000 km on it, 90,000 is the (usually) safe change interval, and all pulleys, idlers etc. were replaced with the last belts and are still free running and in good shape. Next, I notice the front passenger side wheel bearing is starting to make noise. I obtain new bearings from the local bearing house, and pull it apart. I discover the reason the bearing went bad is because the inner seal is gone. I don't absolutely trust the seals on the 6207's, as this inner seal gets the worst of the mud and water, and fortunately, the local Canadian Tire actually has a couple in stock!! Miracle!! While working on the bearing, I find the caliper I replaced last May has frozen. The inner pad is worn to nothing and the rotor is pretty much gone as well. Thinking I would be nice to CT, as they had the seal I needed, I order caliper, pads and rotor from them. They claim they have them in stock, 4 days to get them in town. 2 WEEKS later I finally get the parts. And the caliper is not right. In fact, it has "TOYOTA" cast into its frame. I take it back, and they give me my money back, and don't even ask any questions. So down the road to the independent. He can get me one, for a very good price - but it will take 2 weeks! NO, NOT AGAIN! So further down the road to NAPA. They can get me one in 2 days, but it will cost $100. Ouch, but I am tired of driving a car with only half a brake system. The caliper arrives, and it looks like the right one, but it is totally bare, no handbrake bracket or carrier. It is a hacksaw job to free up the old carrier, and then I try to bolt on the handbrake bracket. The bolts do not fit, the caliper is drilled and tapped M12x1.25 instead of M8x1.25. Hell with it, I want to drive a car with brakes, even if there is no handbrake until I can find bigger bolts. I return the core, and get no sympathy from NAPA, nor do they have any bolts. Down the road to the industrial supplier, who has bolts that fit, sort of. All I have to do is cut off 10 mm of length, and file the 19 mm heads down to 17 mm so there is clearance between the 2 heads for a socket. I go to bolt the bracket on, and discover that only one hole is tapped! And I don't have an M12X1.25 tap. So today, I try to find an M12x1.5 bolt, so I can put the last bolt into the bracket. At least the brakes work better, and there is a hand brake, even if it is held on by a single bolt. And now, the rear brakes are making noise. It started while driving around with the frozen caliper, etc., waiting for parts. It is the left rear, the diagonal buddy of the front right, so I had hoped proper parts and good bleeding at the front would fix it, but it seems not. It is a rubbing noise, that eventually gets really loud, but goes away if I just ride the brake a bit. At least the heater core is OK. Dude....I feel for you. That hurts to even read lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trucking45 Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 What HAVEN'T I done to my Subaru recently? Christmas time, I smell coolant in the car and it is getting steamy, so I put in a bypass on the heater core. ( I am too far away from tools to fix it...) A few days later I find the problem was actually a leaky heater hose, when the engine overheats due to a lack of coolant. The headgaskets survive this escapade, but the thermostat does not, it fails wide open (could be worse). I still do not trust the heater core, so I drive it home, 1400 km, in -10 deg. C temperatures, with no heat in the car and a piece of cardboard across the rad to keep the engine temperature more or less off the lower peg. A few days later after returning home, in the middle of a cold snap, and in the process of trying to find a heater core, the timing belt strips a dozen teeth. Between the cold, trouble shooting and waiting for parts, the car is down for 2 weeks or more. I have no idea why the belt went, it had only 80,000 km on it, 90,000 is the (usually) safe change interval, and all pulleys, idlers etc. were replaced with the last belts and are still free running and in good shape. Next, I notice the front passenger side wheel bearing is starting to make noise. I obtain new bearings from the local bearing house, and pull it apart. I discover the reason the bearing went bad is because the inner seal is gone. I don't absolutely trust the seals on the 6207's, as this inner seal gets the worst of the mud and water, and fortunately, the local Canadian Tire actually has a couple in stock!! Miracle!! While working on the bearing, I find the caliper I replaced last May has frozen. The inner pad is worn to nothing and the rotor is pretty much gone as well. Thinking I would be nice to CT, as they had the seal I needed, I order caliper, pads and rotor from them. They claim they have them in stock, 4 days to get them in town. 2 WEEKS later I finally get the parts. And the caliper is not right. In fact, it has "TOYOTA" cast into its frame. I take it back, and they give me my money back, and don't even ask any questions. So down the road to the independent. He can get me one, for a very good price - but it will take 2 weeks! NO, NOT AGAIN! So further down the road to NAPA. They can get me one in 2 days, but it will cost $100. Ouch, but I am tired of driving a car with only half a brake system. The caliper arrives, and it looks like the right one, but it is totally bare, no handbrake bracket or carrier. It is a hacksaw job to free up the old carrier, and then I try to bolt on the handbrake bracket. The bolts do not fit, the caliper is drilled and tapped M12x1.25 instead of M8x1.25. Hell with it, I want to drive a car with brakes, even if there is no handbrake until I can find bigger bolts. I return the core, and get no sympathy from NAPA, nor do they have any bolts. Down the road to the industrial supplier, who has bolts that fit, sort of. All I have to do is cut off 10 mm of length, and file the 19 mm heads down to 17 mm so there is clearance between the 2 heads for a socket. I go to bolt the bracket on, and discover that only one hole is tapped! And I don't have an M12X1.25 tap. So today, I try to find an M12x1.5 bolt, so I can put the last bolt into the bracket. At least the brakes work better, and there is a hand brake, even if it is held on by a single bolt. And now, the rear brakes are making noise. It started while driving around with the frozen caliper, etc., waiting for parts. It is the left rear, the diagonal buddy of the front right, so I had hoped proper parts and good bleeding at the front would fix it, but it seems not. It is a rubbing noise, that eventually gets really loud, but goes away if I just ride the brake a bit. At least the heater core is OK. Dude you are a true subie lover :clap: To stay through with your car like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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