Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)


Ricearu
 Share

Recommended Posts

Driver's front done on the Loyale. It was a band-aid axle I rebuilt that was on my GL and only meant to be on there for about 1k. It was on there for about 4k miles. It did it's job.

New axle was a bitch.

Changed oil, mobil 1 + filter. New air filter. Adjusted timing but it was only off -2*. Still got my slight hiccup. Oh well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Drove the PandaWagon to Phoenix to check out ComiCon - still overheating. :( I had to stop 3 times to let the cooling system cool down enough to burp the air back out of the cooling system and refill it. I'd loose about 3/4 of a gallon in about 20 miles. :eek

The radiator cap and thermostat are new. I don't think it's them.

 

To get me home, I did this:

 

14399842823_8595525eab_c.jpg

 

It let the air out but didn't let the coolant out. :) I also did no more than about 68 MPH (3200 RPM) on the interstate and 55 on the state highways. Between the two, I managed to get home without her overheating. :)

 

From doing some internet searching, it's a head gasket. :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nope, those are built by a guy named Willy Fisterbottom who is a Member of AUSubaru.com forums; in fact there is a whole thread going there, just about his name... The question about those unequal Exhaust, is this:

 

Beside an Engine's sound Change, there could be any other advantage / disadvantage with that Setup?

 

Seems like it would transfer heat to the Oil Filter / Timing Belts area.

 

Kind Regards.

as usual on my posts, underlined words are web links

The factory turbo manifold wraps around the front of the engine also, but its double skinned. I'd be installing a heat shield between the pipe & the filter.

The biggest problem with the factory pipes is squashing them when running off-road. The turbo's don't have this issue cos the ipe is higher & then goes over the engine crossmember, not under it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Drove the PandaWagon to Phoenix to check out ComiCon - still overheating. :( I had to stop 3 times to let the cooling system cool down enough to burp the air back out of the cooling system and refill it. I'd loose about 3/4 of a gallon in about 20 miles. :eek

The radiator cap and thermostat are new. I don't think it's them.

 

To get me home, I did this:

 

14399842823_8595525eab_c.jpg

 

It let the air out but didn't let the coolant out. :) I also did no more than about 68 MPH (3200 RPM) on the interstate and 55 on the state highways. Between the two, I managed to get home without her overheating. :)

 

From doing some internet searching, it's a head gasket. :(

 

Welcome to the club. ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The factory turbo manifold wraps around the front of the engine also, but its double skinned. I'd be installing a heat shield between the pipe & the filter.

The biggest problem with the factory pipes is squashing them when running off-road. The turbo's don't have this issue cos the ipe is higher & then goes over the engine crossmember, not under it.

 

 

 

The factory turbo manifold wraps around the front of the engine also, but its double skinned. I'd be installing a heat shield between the pipe & the filter.

The biggest problem with the factory pipes is squashing them when running off-road. The turbo's don't have this issue cos the ipe is higher & then goes over the engine crossmember, not under it.

 

 

This should be in the Historic forum as it’s in a 77 2 door

but, it has an EA81 so I guess it can go here….

I was concerned with heat transfer from the headers but, I’ve checked oil temps

and it hasn’t gone up, even if it did I’m running 20W 50 so I can afford a bit

more heat in the oil. I don’t think I’ll hit anything as the pipe isn’t hanging low and it’s not a 4wd

 

You have to admit it is arguably the best sounding EA81 in

the world……..

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My ignition switch would not release.  I couldn't turn the car off let alone get the key out. 

 

Sprayed some Tri-Flow into the cylinder the other day and the problem seems to be fixed for now.

 

I've had that happen before. The tumbler is worn out and you'll have to replace it. Probably should do it sooner than later.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yahoo,, it's A-Live,,,  Had picked up a '91 Loyal Wagon with bad head gaskets.   Ordered up a set of Stone Head gaskets and got them in.   Sounds fine running smooth and quite.   So far a good investment.. $350 mostly straight 137K miles...   $150 parts,,    equals runner...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I Like the Pencil and Zip Tie idea also;

 

but is sad to know that the PandaWagon is Overheatin' ...

 

Have you checked for clogged Radiator and / or Stuck Thermostat?

 

That's where I started. I replaced the thermostat, radiator cap, radiator, and water pump. But none of them solved it. :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

84 Brumby got plain old oil change as per evertime od hits another 10,000km, last one indicated 360,000, this one 370.000. Amazed as this speedo unit is the fourth one I have installed in fifteen years and it still counts, though nedle guts or cable needs a lube - getting wavering. Valvoline 15W40 Engine Armour of the like, and must do filter included. Oil looked a bit dirtier than I expected out of the cleaned out internals EA82. The engine Y pipe metal screws got a new lease of life on the double walled pipe, bigger thread size this time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've had that happen before. The tumbler is worn out and you'll have to replace it. Probably should do it sooner than later.

It got stuck again... so replacement is probably best at this point.

 

Question for you all: is it easier to just grab an ignition switch and key from a junker, or is this a part I can actually order and replace?  I would rather not have to use two keys (door, and ignition) but it seems unavoidable now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dang, CEL came on this morning on the WRX. boost is killed. Probably means the tumble generator valve code I had a coupla years ago is back. I'll scan the codes when I get home.

 

thinking about paying a shop to install a TGV delete, and probably have them install the block-off plates for my non-functioning air cut valves while they have it apart.

 

ugh

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...