Twitch de la Brat Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 TheLoyale: The reason for the 2.5 instead of the 2.2 is more displacement and 10:1 compression = more torque! Since I'm sticking to a N/A build, I need all the displacement I can get. Oh, and prolly no more than 2" pipes if I go true duals, anything larger and I will be working against the pipes instead of with them. CHIM: That's awesome! Love the lifted ea81 bodies. Good looking roo! If you want REAL torque, go with an EG33 That sucker will tear your car in half! Twitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 True, but also at the cost of handling and major fabrication of the front end to relocate the radiator - that's one LONG engine. I could go to a EZ30D, but I am limited to how much power I can generate since the heads have a single exhaust port for each side. If I had the funding, I'd go EZ30R, but not on my salary. So, I will stick with the 2.5. Besides, like you said, the torque out of that EG33 would rip my poor wagon in two! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 Without a muffler of some sort, yes, it would sound terrible. When we did the EJ22 conversion, he didn't get the exhaust done immeadiately so it ended right after the cat. Boy, was that LOUD! It sounded terrible too. I heard a EA71 with straight pipes - that sounded mean, but way too loud for street driving.However, if I use a set of glasspacks or turbo mufflers, that should keep the noise at a reasonable level, but still sound mean with duals. I toyed with doing duals on the EA82 in my old 86 wagon, but decided against it due to lack of low rpm torque. Since the new engine will be 2.5L, that's 1250cc per side. Should be able to find a good pipe size with that. Anybody know what the size of the EJ22 y-pipe is? I know it's double walled to keep the noise down. That's option A, option B would be get a set of equal length headers, resonator, and an STi muffler to put on there. Quiet, but deadly. The other thing with true duals is whether the ECU will be able to compensate for the fact that it's only seeing half the exhaust gasses....If it goes nuts, then I will have to use option B. Choices choices..... A local exhaust experimented with their 87 carb wagon during the early 90s (they had a dyno as well). They found that dual 2.25" pipes to just in front of the rear diff gave the best compromise. How this would relate to the later larger EFI motors is anyone's guess though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T'subaru Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 This, http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15827 Will be getting pay pal and donating to usmb. Till then no attachments. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 I removed the A/C Pump and am down to one belt now, The A/C was in the way of alot of things, plus you can't get to the By-pass hose for the heater core that runs under the intake if the A/C pump is installed. So its out and am much happier. Genuine Parts: Radiator Waterpump/gasket Thermo/gasket Trans Cooling Lines -TJD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 A local exhaust experimented with their 87 carb wagon during the early 90s (they had a dyno as well).They found that dual 2.25" pipes to just in front of the rear diff gave the best compromise. How this would relate to the later larger EFI motors is anyone's guess though. That's very interesting....did they do true duals or was there a cross pipe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 Is that a turntable behind the parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 I removed the A/C Pump and am down to one belt now, The A/C was in the way of alot of things, plus you can't get to the By-pass hose for the heater core that runs under the intake if the A/C pump is installed. So its out and am much happier. I'd be worried about the upper bracket moving now that it's only restrained by a single bolt on the inlet manifold. Unless you've got plans to find the proper bracket from a non-AC car. Not having AC is not an option over here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 That's very interesting....did they do true duals or was there a cross pipe? Full dual to just in front of the diff, then a merge into a single pipe over the rear axle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 Rob, yes it is! I have alot of records, so a turntable is a must Wagonist, I was also worried about that aswell - but it can't realy move once the alt is bolted up tight. Seems to work f=as good as before, So we'll see. -Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87glsubie Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 well i ditched my ac compressor as well. havent had a single problem over the year or so that i havent had it. i did help it out by putting a bigger washer inbetween the bolt head and bracket jsut to help encourage it be happy. : D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 I might add a peice of water pipe or some threaded pipe in the front most part of the bracket (Where that big bolt used to go on the compressor to hold that electronic thing) just to give it some support in the front setion. Either way, its most likely gonna be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 I added a 14mm threaded rod with 14mm dubble nuts on both ends and lock washers. Now its nice and solid. I had to put more tension on the drive belt as it would cherp when under load. Does anyone have a picture of a Non-AC EA82? I would like to see the other bracket, I think that on some Non-AC EA82s the Alt is moved in closer kinda where the AC pump used to go, correct? -Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Theres a starter sitting in that spot, as I was pulling then engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagen Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 today I put the 4wd suspension back on the RX. GOOD GOD these sit high stock. I got done in the dark but it's tall. thats a good 6-8inches between the airdam and the curb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Rob, oh that is diffrent! thanks Vagen, Car looks good! Now you need to have 12" under the rear diff (Like me) Ok one more question: Is it normal for a New Genuine Waterpump to make a wine starting at 2000rpm and up? It increases with engine speed. Doesn't seem like its a bad thing, just wondering. Don't tell me I have to disassemble this thing again any time soon.. -Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagen Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 [quote name= Vagen, Car looks good! Now you need to have 12" under the rear diff (Like me) -Tom [/quote] this is my goal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Oooo Safari rally car! Is that the African safari car? That would be kickass:banana: Hope you go for it all the way !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Oooo Safari rally car! Is that the African safari car? That would be kickass:banana: Hope you go for it all the way !! thats it... he's got another thread about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 thats it... he's got another thread about it. Cool! I just found it! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=107659 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derburger Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Replaced the boat vinyl the previous owner of my XT applied to the door panels with automotive carpet. Now the dash is carpeted (dash mat to cover up a crack) and so are the door panels. The door panels look almost stock though. Classy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T'subaru Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 Just bought a a donor car for my '90 loyale that was an ea82t / 4eat. I cooked the engine shortly after the trans started torque binding big time! [ATTACH]7265[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]7266[/ATTACH] EJ22, 5 spd awd, and untouched since its arrival 'bout a year ago. $240.00 to strip anything I want:grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 (edited) I drove over a 2ft snow bank lastnight at work. ! I have cell pics to prove it, I'll see if I can post them later -Tom Edited January 16, 2010 by TheLoyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KristjanJohann Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 Been upto some stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 Here are the pictures I said before. Sorry they are cell phone pics. OK, so now does anyone know why a new Genuine Waterpump wines from 2000rpm and up? Is this normal? -Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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