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What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)


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wife's 03 H6 OBW had a leaking rear strut. It also has had a split inner boot up front so, I decided to install all 4 sttruts and half-axle. It went OK though, I was quite slow - doing it over 4 days with 3-4 interruptions.

 

Also, after doing the rear struts with handtools, I bought an electric impact before doing the front so, NEW TOOL! WOOT!

 

used info from here (also, added some pics and comments);

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/81-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/36263-2003-w-h6-baja-springs-kyb-struts-done.html

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grumble.

 

BRAT oil leak got much worse.

 

 

Still made it to KC and back.

 

Either rear main, or oil pan are my first 2 thoughts after sticking my head under it.

 

At least oil level did not get low.

 

 

going to clean it up and see what i think and whether it is worth even fixing now or just wait it until spring. If oil pan, i will easily have that fixed this weekend.

 

probably shouldn't have used the cork pan gasket last time. hopefully that is what it is, but i am iffy.

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2011-10-23_15-42-44_HDR.jpg

i cut the front springs like two coils. the first coil is very flat, i cut it on the second. straight down from the end of the spring (720 degrees.) the spring was a little loose in the strut until i got some weight on it. this means no off road. i don't want to drop a spring off the top perch. i plan on fitting some coil-overs or making some or something, i have until the front shocks are shot to figure that out. result was a 2.5" 3" drop from stock. its a little bouncy but for no money, not bad.

 

my car is FWD (sad) so the rear end is super simple. four bolts to drop the torsion bar tube, three bolts a side for the spring plates and the two retainer bolts that hold in the torsion bar bushing. i held the tube off the brake lines and put a puller on the axle.

 

warning

the outer set of splines is different from the inner set, if you remove your torsion bars mark the torsion bar, the spring plate and the tube!!!

 

so i wanted 3" drop in the rear. the outer set of splines number 34. one spline is roughly 10.6 degrees. a quick measure from the middle of the torsion bar to the center of the wheel hub. about 15". 10.6 degrees over 15" is about what i was looking for. i applied a lot of pressure a lot of heat from a propane torch and a small sledge against an aluminum drift and pulled off the spring plate.

installation is the reverse of removal.

 

the front end stiffened considerably because of the shortened springs but the rear is still compliant because spring is just re-clocked a few degrees up. makes for an interesting ride.

 

any one know how to get my engine to decelerate more quickly? i push in the clutch and the slowly creeps down. its like my old toyota.

Edited by bentgrill
forgot pic
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i cut the front springs like two coils. the first coil is very flat, i cut it on the second. straight down from the end of the spring (720 degrees.) the spring was a little loose in the strut until i got some weight on it. this means no off road. i don't want to drop a spring off the top perch. i plan on fitting some coil-overs or making some or something, i have until the front shocks are shot to figure that out. result was a 2.5" 3" drop from stock. its a little bouncy but for no money, not bad.

 

my car is FWD (sad) so the rear end is super simple. four bolts to drop the torsion bar tube, three bolts a side for the spring plates and the two retainer bolts that hold in the torsion bar bushing. i held the tube off the brake lines and put a puller on the axle.

 

warning

the outer set of splines is different from the inner set, if you remove your torsion bars mark the torsion bar, the spring plate and the tube!!!

 

so i wanted 3" drop in the rear. the outer set of splines number 34. one spline is roughly 10.6 degrees. a quick measure from the middle of the torsion bar to the center of the wheel hub. about 15". 10.6 degrees over 15" is about what i was looking for. i applied a lot of pressure a lot of heat from a propane torch and a small sledge against an aluminum drift and pulled off the spring plate.

installation is the reverse of removal.

 

the front end stiffened considerably because of the shortened springs but the rear is still compliant because spring is just re-clocked a few degrees up. makes for an interesting ride.

 

any one know how to get my engine to decelerate more quickly? i push in the clutch and the slowly creeps down. its like my old toyota.

 

Awesome info, mine is 2x4 as well, but I'm happy about it! I will be doing this after mine gets painted for sure, but I may try to figure out a coilover of some kind,

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I pulled two engines this weekend getting ready for a 2.5 to a 2.2 swap at work, another person that didn't know what a temp gauge was :drunk: And I oil undercoated my legacy with bar and chain oil. Winter ready now, good thing we have already got our first snow :brow:

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Replaced the drivers axle on my Outback finally and ran the BRAT for a while. Also found some more lights that will fit under the bumper so I can put in some fogs finally :clap:. My BRAT fan does work with jumpers but not connected and the connections are corroded so I have to figure out how to clean them in the limited space I have.

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Got the studded Hankook 409s on my Baja, and serviced the transmission. test fitted my tire chains...

On the ol 84GL, I removed the throttle linkage that came with the universal Weber adapter kit, and re-installed the stock carb linkage. it opens all the way now! test drove it through some mud...got the tire chains stashed in the back of it now too.

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Replaced passenger front wheel bearings, outer was.... missing a few balls and the cage :-p

 

But job isn't finished, as Autozone kindly gave me two outer wheel seals instead of an outer and an inner. Apparently, AZ only carries the outer seal, which makes absolutely NO FRIKKIN SENSE. :banghead:

 

So, now waiting on a different auto parts store to get one in from across town... tomorrow morning.

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i started gathering parts for a Tempo spring swap.

here's what im going with..

Milwaukee-20111101-00091.jpg?t=1320198972

 

spring isnt cut yet, and its a variable spring. so im not sure exactly how much to cut. gonna do some trial and error which will suck. LOL.

 

my bumpstops were disintegrating, so since i had some urethane bushings left over from a kit i never installed on my integra when i had it, they got turned into bumpstops which will probably never make contact. haha. but they fit right on there like tey were made for it! ;) haha.

Edited by xbeerd
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Today had my windshield replaced with the proper* and complete* seal set to the tune of $225. Frikkin DMV person wouldn't let me test in it due to a crack in the windshield; I look around the parking lot and I"m like "this is Colorado! 5 out of 7 cars that aren't brand new have cracks!!" Getting ones license reinstated in CO is a... witch.

 

 

*PO didn't use the set with the corner trim pieces, and did a ************ey job of gluing it in to boot. They had to grind a little bit of rust out of the channel because of that. :mad:

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I completely forgot about this. I was going to say it was three years ago, but I've only had her three years so...two and change?

 

Took a little trip up the coast from Santa Cruz where I lived at the time, found a nice wide pull off and parked sidewise to the cliff (and well back, and behind a berm, and chocked the wheels):

 

DSC00015.JPG

 

Some nice solid anchors to hold the rope:

 

DSC00016.JPG

 

For a rappel down the cliff face:

 

DSC00017.JPG

 

To better explore the rarely visited secluded beaches and tidepools at the bottom:

 

DSC00020.JPG

 

That was a sweet trip we could not have done without the closed tow loops and solid upright (it holds seatbelts, it can't be too weak) to tie off of. OK, we could have done it, but may not have lived to tell about it if we had lacked those things.

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