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What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)

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new (to me) CV axle rendered this beauty, what kind of dunder head mechanic would think this is ok.....

 

553656_10151797370950372_731900371_24801160_957087757_n.jpg

 

 

also installed back seats with head rests for $10 I <3 picknpull

 

You did pretty well getting it out. Mine was reallllllllllly stuck zzz.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117925&highlight=axle

 

CIMG3403.JPG

 

 

 

I just did some mods on my EJ adapter plate and got the clutch and flywheel on.

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:eek: How on earth do people jam those in? When I have put the axles on backwards, that pin comes to an abrupt stop. Do they live by the "Get a bigger hammer!" rule?:banghead:

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I fear the day I have to try and remove my driver's side axle, which,from all appearances, looks like a mechanic cut off the shaft of a small phillips head screwdriver and rammed that in there :banghead:

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You did pretty well getting it out. Mine was reallllllllllly stuck zzz.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117925&highlight=axle

 

CIMG3403.JPG

 

 

 

I just did some mods on my EJ adapter plate and got the clutch and flywheel on.

Been there, dealt with that. I used a grinder, though.

I bought the tranny from someone with both axles still attached, with the shafts cut in half with a torch.

There was a broken off punch stuck in both roll pins. One side had a punch going through each side of the roll pin.

 

So then they gave up and torched the axles in half :banghead:

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today i used some white shepord oil leak eliminator and it did the trick. no more oil leak and the tic went bye bye.

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Ugh, I hate magic oil you pour in to band aid over problems. Just fix the problem...

Just so you know, you'll still have to replace whatever seal is leaking eventually.

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Replace the leaking seal(s) and run some Marvel Mystery Oil in with fresh oil. This will help condition other seals, clean valves, pistons and gunk, and your motor will thank you for it.

 

You can also run some SeaFoam or ATF in the oil to clean out built up sludge which might be causing the tick. A consistent lifter tick in the EA82 is usually from Air getting into the oil system, via leaking cam seals, oil pump seal, Valve covers ect. Repair it once, and have a happy running Subaru. :)

 

Using Stop leak fixes, is like putting Saw dust into a slipping Automatic transmission. It is not fixing anything, just an illusion.

Edited by TheLoyale

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Replace the leaking seal(s) and run some Marvel Mystery Oil in with fresh oil. This will help condition other seals, clean valves, pistons and gunk, and your motor will thank you for it.

 

You can also run some SeaFoam or ATF in the oil to clean out built up sludge which might be causing the tick. A consistent lifter tick in the EA82 is usually from oil getting into the oil system, via leaking cam seals, oil pump seal, Valve covers ect. Repair it once, and have a happy running Subaru. :)

 

Using Stop leak fixes, is like putting Saw dust into a slipping Automatic transmission. It is not fixing anything, just an illusion.

 

I think it's saw dust in a MANUAL transmission to stop gear and bearing noise. In an automatic transmission it would VERY quickly clog up the filter, clog all oil passages, and totally make the thing stop working. Anyway, I don't think sawdust is a great friction modifier :lol:

 

PS. oil in your oil is always a good thing :D haha.

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I know, but I can't pass up the chance to be an rump roast about something :lol:

 

YES! Why should GD take all the glory... :brow:

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This remedy your issue?

 

seemed to do the trick. My car still stumble when i put the pedal to the metal at idle.... what is that from? even after the car is warm. it like stutters than revs. and if the engine is cold then it dies. also if im starting my car with the pedal on the floor it wont go.

 

any ideas?

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seemed to do the trick. My car still stumble when i put the pedal to the metal at idle.... what is that from? even after the car is warm. it like stutters than revs. and if the engine is cold then it dies. also if im starting my car with the pedal on the floor it wont go.

 

any ideas?

 

Is this an ea82?

ea82 won't start with the pedal to the floor, that's fuel cut. For clearing a flooded engine.

If it doesn't like WOT off idle it's probably a sticky IAC valve. If you unplug the IAC valve, it won't go WOT at all, it'll totally fall on it's face. So when it gets sticky and slow, it'll get studdery when you go WOT.

 

If this isn't an efi ea82, ignore my post...

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seemed to do the trick. My car still stumble when i put the pedal to the metal at idle.... what is that from? even after the car is warm. it like stutters than revs. and if the engine is cold then it dies. also if im starting my car with the pedal on the floor it wont go.

 

any ideas?

does it have the stock hitachi?

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Lol. Its a Weber swap EA82 IIRC ;)

 

Secondary no opening right away? Take the air cleaner off, and rev it by hand and see what the carb is doing.

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Lol. Its a Weber swap EA82 IIRC ;)

 

Secondary no opening right away? Take the air cleaner off, and rev it by hand and see what the carb is doing.

 

Yeah it's what he said. Yeah I thought it might be something with the choke. But wouldn't explain why once it is warmed up when the choke is open why it does that.

 

also was does WOT stand for?

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Yeah it's what he said. Yeah I thought it might be something with the choke. But wouldn't explain why once it is warmed up when the choke is open why it does that.

 

also was does WOT stand for?

 

Wide Open Throttle (I know, I just figured that out a few months ago lol)

 

Choke shouldn't be an issue with the DGEV, I forgot, did you get a new carb or used?

 

For starting, I would push the pedal down fully once, let it up, then start. Holding the pedal down isn't needed.

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Yeah it's what he said. Yeah I thought it might be something with the choke. But wouldn't explain why once it is warmed up when the choke is open why it does that.

 

also was does WOT stand for?

 

BURN OUT MODE :burnout:

 

 

 

 

 

(wide open throttle)

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Wide Open Throttle (I know, I just figured that out a few months ago lol)

 

Choke shouldn't be an issue with the DGEV, I forgot, did you get a new carb or used?

 

For starting, I would push the pedal down fully once, let it up, then start. Holding the pedal down isn't needed.

 

I bought a brand new one. and the trans adapt 2107. :)

 

mmkay well could it be getting too much air in the secondary?

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That is possible. I am just now getting into carbs, so you'll have to pardon my ignorance, its a learning curve. But then again, its all shear mechanics and pretty straight forward for the most part.

 

I know my old EA81 Hitachi had a hiccup when I'd rev it more then 1/4 throttle off idle. But then again, my carb was original and probably worn. Once it was off idle, you could rev it WOT with out any issues. Just of idle it would stumble.

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