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What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)

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I have been driving the bejesus out of mine the last 2 months. Had the manifold pipe fixed and soon im getting either a glasspack or a thrush turbo muffler. Cant decide on which way i want it. Carb needs tuned into play and that wheel bearing is sure making his presence known now.

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Fixed that snapped wielded nut for the tranny crossmember.. No more transmission movement on downshifts or just tapping the throttle in low speed or crawling.. that sound and the lurching it would do was annoying!

 

Old

 

IMAG0186.jpg

 

New

 

IMAG0187.jpg

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Spent today going through half a pint of lacquer thinner removing all the over spray from the PO's attempt at "two tone"....and said PO's sad idea of a color match to Splendor Red (funny, his looked like tangerine to me....) that happened to cover things randomly on the back hatch and ended up covering...nothing? No rust under them thar spots!? Then attacked some panels with polishing compound just to see what would happen and LO AND BEHOLD! Besides all the rock chips, the red actually looks nice! So I may keep it for a bit while I decide what to do about a re-paint. Must buy an orbital buffer tomorrow from Harbor Freight, if I intend to have continued use of my elbows. I'll try to post a pic or two once the compounding is done, it's quite a difference.

 

Will have to go the jy this weekend and try to find a Splendor Red drivers fender, as the (once again, that idiot) PO slathered the replacement he put on with a) tan house paint and then B) the cheap bed liner spray he used on the rockers. No saving that one without sanding to bare-metal. As well as every piece of exterior trim molding I can find.

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Spent today going through half a pint of lacquer thinner removing all the over spray from the PO's attempt at "two tone"....and said PO's sad idea of a color match to Splendor Red (funny, his looked like tangerine to me....) that happened to cover things randomly on the back hatch and ended up covering...nothing? No rust under them thar spots!? Then attacked some panels with polishing compound just to see what would happen and LO AND BEHOLD! Besides all the rock chips, the red actually looks nice! So I may keep it for a bit while I decide what to do about a re-paint. Must buy an orbital buffer tomorrow from Harbor Freight, if I intend to have continued use of my elbows. I'll try to post a pic or two once the compounding is done, it's quite a difference.

 

Will have to go the jy this weekend and try to find a Splendor Red drivers fender, as the (once again, that idiot) PO slathered the replacement he put on with a) tan house paint and then B) the cheap bed liner spray he used on the rockers. No saving that one without sanding to bare-metal. As well as every piece of exterior trim molding I can find.

 

the buffers make your hands hurt really f***ing bad if u use them to long so be careful and dont buff the corners or sharp creases because it will take the paint right off if u do it to long and dont buff the plastic because it runes it

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Got my baby registered with Washington plates, finally! :banana:

 

461234_3999640321336_774113257_o.jpg

 

Oh, let's see what else. Replaced the front passenger side axle, "restored" that 4WD decal on the rear, got two functioning trunk struts (so my trunk finally stays open), got basically new windshield wipers all the way around (shame I won't use them for a few months), and for the first time since I bought her, I gave her a wash. Tomorrow I'm gonna try and take off the bumper and replace the horns with a pair of Fiamm Freeway Blasters. And I'm gonna go from there.

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u should check how bad that rust is if its only surface rust wire wheel it off then sand it smooth and prime where the rust was at/bare metal and go to carquest, napa, or a paint place that can make the factory color for u(the paint codes on a sticker under the hood or on the top part of the radiator support around the hood latch) if its bad rust get a new hatch from the u pull it and wait for one thats the same color as yours because u know subaru only made couple million of them:lol:

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Yes, I've been planning on removing the rust and repainting. It is surface only, thankfully. There is no other rust that I can find other than on the body, so some sanding and painting is all I really need to do. That's gonna be a project I'm gonna do soon; probably after my next paycheck. Got paid yesterday and already spent all my money on registration and car insurance. :headbang: And my paint color is not near the latch, but above the driver's side shock, haha. It's code #946. Hopefully my nearby NAPA can whip up an aerosol can of that. :-p

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... Tomorrow I'm gonna try and take off the bumper and replace the horns with a pair of Fiamm Freeway Blasters. And I'm gonna go from there.

 

Very Kindly, Let me tell you two things about that:

  • You can remove the Head Lamps to gain access to the Horns too, four nuts each one and Voilá!
     
  • Subaru doesn't use a Relay for Horns... so The new ones doesn't sound as Loud as they could Be.

 

I Learned that in 1996, when I Changed the Stock horns on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" with a Pair of Bosch ones.

 

Good Luck!

Kind Regards.

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Very Kindly, Let me tell you two things about that:

  • You can remove the Head Lamps to gain access to the Horns too, four nuts each one and Voilá!
     
  • Subaru doesn't use a Relay for Horns... so The new ones doesn't sound as Loud as they could Be.

 

I Learned that in 1996, when I Changed the Stock horns on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" with a Pair of Bosch ones.

 

Good Luck!

Kind Regards.

 

Removing the head lamps seems more practical, except for the fact that I am annoyed with messing with the head lamps. But yeah, 'cause if I take off the bumper, I have to disconnect my offroad lights and take out the battery. Plus, I'm not even sure about getting to the four bolts to take off the bumper. I'll probably try taking out the headlamps.

 

There's no relay? Well that pisses me off, haha. Somewhere in the Chilton manual it says something about a relay for the horn. And I figured since there are two horns stock, there ought to be a relay in there. I suppose I better save the trouble and pick up a relay and some wiring before I do the horns.

Edited by jj421

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... I'll probably try taking out the headlamps...

 

Well... I'm glad to know that my Idea will Help you to do that Easier.

 

 

... I figured since there are two horns stock, there ought to be a relay in there...

 

Yes, me too.

 

 

... Somewhere in the Chilton manual it says something about a relay for the horn...

 

Maybe for another model or maybe I'm wrong... so, Could you post that part of the Chilton's Manual, here?

 

Kind Regards.

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Maybe for another model or maybe I'm wrong... so, Could you post that part of the Chilton's Manual, here?

 

Well, I have access to the Chilton manual for free online, so it may be different to an actual paper copy. It's really in the last sentence, which has horns highlighted. I guess it says they may use relays. And I suppose it's not talking about the Loyale specifically; but rather in general, on most cars, those systems have relays.

 

chilton.jpg

 

I might just install them, and hopefully they'll be at least a bit louder than the stock horns, but if nothing else, they'll have a more authoritative tone.

 

jj421 if u want a loud horn hook one up like this guy i know where hes putting a tugboat horn on his 83 brat:lol:

 

If I could afford it, I'd put a train horn in my car. :D

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sub2grille.jpg

Doubled the quantity of 86 two doors with a hatchette. .

sub2side.jpg

 

Some repair required. But at an estimated 92k on everything and a uncracked dash..

 

 

(theory: cars actually equipped with the optional a/c the dashes last longer. )

 

 

 

new old stock fuel pump. Now on to parts relevant when engine is running..

The return line apparently broke off the tank, sealed and the hose plugged..

 

 

Should I recreate the reutrn line into the tank or temporaily

my idea put a three plug filter back a the pump and route the return back in?

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I'm third owner of an 88 GL wagon, and the guy I bought it from 13 years ago had told me the AC didn't work when they got it. Well, I finally said to hell with it and fixed it. Had to replace the idler and drive belt, because they had been removed over the years then put in relays and voila! I did add a can of coolant once I saw the system ran. $30 bucks worth of parts from the salvage yard and I am finally COOL!

 

Eric

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Replaced the drivers side (thats passenger side for you Stateside folks) rocker cover gasket on the 89' GT. Boy that thing is fun to drive!

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Replaced the replacement d/s fender (PO put one on and then slathered it in about 3mm of various paints. grrr), and the valence. Unfortunately both replacements were black (no good Splendor Red GL's in the yard) but it's nice not to have:

 

a) a fender that looks like magnified flat black orange peels and

B) a valence that isn't banged in all to hell

 

It'll all come back off once she's parked in Florida for clean up/rust prevention/re-paint.

 

Also got a start on installing a media player head unit and speakers, so far shaved out the surround I nabbed from an '89 3-door for the Sony to fit and replaced PO's crap door speaker wiring job....as in, wires properly run through the loom grommets. Oddly enough, modern h/u almost fit in the '89 panel; could be the year Sube started catching up with the times?? Still sticks out too far but I'll just blacken the aluminum before installing.

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Today i went from this

 

th_7mmresize.jpg

 

To this

 

th_8mmresize.jpg

 

A little Side by Side black is 7mm generic brand that the po put on the red is a 8mm pertronix flame-thrower

 

th_sidebysideresize.jpg

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Hey Cpreset, happen to have the part number to those? All I can find by Pertronix are the 7mm wires; I suspect typo's on the AdvanceAuto website.

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Wheeled it in the mountains of Utah (and got stuck twice) and drifted it in circles on the Bonneville salt flats. Pictures soon.

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