jj421 Posted March 10, 2013 Share Posted March 10, 2013 Still in the process of it, but いぜん (Izen) got a new clutch and flywheel. As well as putting in a 5-speed D/R. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted March 10, 2013 Share Posted March 10, 2013 My GL is officially the garage queen! I ran across a low mileage '05 Rav I couldnt say no to. So it will be the wifes DD and our road trip rig. I finished up with giving the Rav a base-line service just so I know things are up to speed. Pretty clean little thing. I think its even SMALLER that the GL Ill have to do a photo-shoot and comparo with these two little 4wds. They are VERY similar in more ways than you could imagine... Silly little japanese rigs! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twitch de la Brat Posted March 10, 2013 Share Posted March 10, 2013 (edited) My GL is officially the garage queen! I ran across a low mileage '05 Rav I couldnt say no to. So it will be the wifes DD and our road trip rig. I finished up with giving the Rav a base-line service just so I know things are up to speed. Pretty clean little thing. I think its even SMALLER that the GL Ill have to do a photo-shoot and comparo with these two little 4wds. They are VERY similar in more ways than you could imagine... Silly little japanese rigs! The only problem with the Rav-4 is that the engine and transmission point the wrong way And the AWD/4WD system isn't as cool as a Subaru's Twitch PS: Congrats on being able to stash the GL in the garage. Keep it away from the nasty road grime for a while. Edited March 10, 2013 by Twitch de la Brat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted March 10, 2013 Share Posted March 10, 2013 Yes, motor is pointed the wrong way. But this vintage Rav uses the same type of AWD system that most Subarus do. A viscous coupled center diff controls power distribution front to rear. Only hang-up is the non- "symmetrical" front axle lengths due to the transfersely mounted engine and trans. So loss of traction in severe cases it due primarily to torque steer. Fun little rig though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 changed the fuel pressure regulator and seafoamed the IAC on the loyale. still stumbles.... On a positive note, I learned to resolder EA82 clocks and revived two of those today with my 1950s waller solder gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twitch de la Brat Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 Saw this And after confirming the dreaded with a pull of the dipstick I did this Now starts the rebuild... Stay tuned for updates. Twitch PS: May get its own build thread if all goes well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 Wedge has developed a jumpy tach and sounds like a WRX. ER27's aren't supposed to sound like that. Noo!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 I was under the car tightening the exhust when I found this: I think something's missing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuhaKankkunen Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 Upssssss! I must do a complete rebuild of my brake system. I'll post some pics. Hope to start next weekend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 (edited) Replaced the Ditsy in Wedge. Power is back, tach is back to it's normal self, no more rough idle, and my hesitation in mid-throttle is gone. All was good till my return from lunch today when the misfire returned! Idling rough, lower power, and exhaust sounds like it's missing a cylinder every time. The car was mostly warmed up when I shut it down to go get lunch. It sat for about 20 minutes and that misfire showed up right after I started it back up. I'm gonna look at it again later this evening, but this is going to be a challenge to find the cause since it appears to be temperature related. At least the jumping tach and the hesitation at part throttle are gone. Edited March 28, 2013 by subynut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twitch de la Brat Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 Replaced the Ditsy in Wedge. Power is back, tach is back to it's normal self, no more rough idle, and my hesitation in mid-throttle is gone. All was good till my return from lunch today when the misfire returned! Idling rough, lower power, and exhaust sounds like it's missing a cylinder every time. The car was mostly warmed up when I shut it down to go get lunch. It sat for about 20 minutes and that misfire showed up right after I started it back up. I'm gonna look at it again later this evening, but this is going to be a challenge to find the cause since it appears to be temperature related. At least the jumping tach and the hesitation at part throttle are gone. Partially fouled plug finally completely fouled? Broken spark plug wire? Bad ground? Dirty Injectors? Tired gerbil in the engine? Twitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacyjs9 Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 Went to the beach cv axle went out ate the brake drum hub out so new hub cv axle and wheel bearing roo.htm roo2.htm roo3.htm roo4.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandrion Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 Changed the plugs, wires disty, and rotor in the Loyale. Dropped the tank, cleaned it out, cleaned out my pump, ran all new fuel lines, installed a see through filter "before" the pump, changed the oil, installed new rear struts, and new front cv axles are on the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 Partially fouled plug finally completely fouled? Broken spark plug wire? Bad ground? Dirty Injectors? Tired gerbil in the engine? Twitch Bad injector. It started acting stupid again about halfway through my arrands. Took it home and started the spark plug trick but I just flat could not find it. So, I got dangerous! I blocked the wheels, set parking brake real good, put it in drive, and redid the test. Ah ha! Cylinder 5 is the problem! Checked spark: ZAP! Ouch. Got spark! Pulled the injector connector and checked the impedence: nothing. Huh. Checked another injector: There's impedence on that one. Bingo. I swapped it with a spare injector I had and no more misfire! Whoo hoo! Wedge is going on a road trip! First one in 4 years! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 Made it 150 miles home with a busted rear pass. Axle. My my was that noisy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rain_man_rich Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Replaced distributor cap. Car was missing badly (every once in a while), idling erratically(every once in a while), and had to crank for up to 10 seconds at start(every once in a while). At its worst when pulling out from a stop the car would either have no power or buck very wildly. I tried pulling the rotor off but it was stuck on pretty good and I didn't want to mess anything up by pulling harder or using any kind of prying tool. Is there a set screw or trick of some sort to to remove the distributor rotor? 1990 Loyale MPFI Turbo 4EAT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legourde_Nux Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 Changed radiator to block hose and inner CV boot....considering a skid plate. 1994 Impreza FWD EJ16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 Wonder Wedge Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 Replaced distributor cap. Car was missing badly (every once in a while), idling erratically(every once in a while), and had to crank for up to 10 seconds at start(every once in a while). At its worst when pulling out from a stop the car would either have no power or buck very wildly. I tried pulling the rotor off but it was stuck on pretty good and I didn't want to mess anything up by pulling harder or using any kind of prying tool. Is there a set screw or trick of some sort to to remove the distributor rotor? 1990 Loyale MPFI Turbo 4EAT Yep, has got a small, Philips head screw opposite side (IIRC) of the rotor tip. Using a stuby helps and use a high quality one. Mine was REALLY in there (original), maybe even loc-tited in and you DO NOT want to strip that screw... Still have the 50+ shimmy/vibration... Thinking it might have to do with the sloppy inner CV (the cup-to-output stub with the roll pin, not the shaft-to-cup).. MUST fix that.. And eying a low mileage EJ20... but since some $)(*#)(% SAT on my hood while parked for a concert in Cleveland, I've now got a slight crease by the driver's headlight.. (Not that the hood was perfect, some dings and stuff, but rust free damnit!) I'm thinking an EJ22 (since I can snag one at the pull-a-part for 150) but with an M62 on top. And that middle part of the hood is in the way.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 Rides much better. The rear now matches the front and the balance feels closer to neutral. 250 lbs/in and currently, I have the dampers set to all the way soft. I have a RallyX Saturday, will see how it handles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legourde_Nux Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 Took the PandaWagon through my usual fast corner today and it hugs the road so much better. Turn-in inputs have been greatly reduced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonas Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 (edited) Replaced axle, ordered new (reman) calipers for the brat today. Couldn't get the brake pistons to turn and with the cost of hardware and pads, a nice set of loaded, fresh calipers is just what the doctor ordered! Hope to be back on the road next weekend. While driving the wifes Grand Cherokee to and from work is nice, the Brat is just more fun.... http--,,--// Edited April 20, 2013 by jonas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Went racing: Had a blast and the wagon handles much better with the upgraded springs and shocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 (edited) Awesome Photo of the Panda Wagon in Action! ... I Like It! Went racing: Had a blast and the wagon handles much better with the upgraded springs and shocks. Could I Ask more info on your "Upgraded Springs & Shocks" Setup? Kind Regards. Edited April 22, 2013 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subafreak Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 85ish BRAT Sawapped in some XT6 seats. Wired in a 10" sub to the stock radio for some boom boom. And started my XT6 bumper swap. All and all it's a daily driver train wreack rite now. Lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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