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What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)

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About changing the turbo coolant line to the turbocharger...

Timothy, that hose is a bear to get at.

I paid a mechanic to do it for me because it sucked so much.

Best wishes.

 

Twitch

OH MY GOODNESS,

Twitch You were RIGHT!

 

That little bit of hose was a ROYAL PAIN IN THE BACKSIDE!

I ended up having to PULL the turbo just to remove ONE little banjo bolt!

That meant disconnecting everything that was associated with the turbo, (intake, output, exhaust output, three nuts to the header assembly...)

I know far more than I ever wanted to know about that little monster.

BUT...

she lives on and the best part is that she DID NOT blow a headgasket, no water in the oil, or oil in the water, no coked turbo bearings, no (major) cracked heads (I've heard that these heads crack at the dealership while waiting to be sold...it's a feature)

So I'll continue to drive her and just enjoy what is left of her nine lives.

 

I say nine because she had a new radiator when I got her so there is some history of cooling system troubles in the past.

so goodness knows how many times she overheated before she came into my life.

 

Pictures...ain't happening, I started to document but got so fed up I just wanted to get on to the next step.

perhaps I will post what I have, but for now suffice the theater of imagination to play out the important bits...mostly fussing at the amount of heat shielding surrounding the turbo. and the lack of space to maneuver in while trying to turn a wrench.

 

Bottom line...She lives on and isn't going to a junk yard anytime soon.

 

Thankfully,

Timothy

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DSC06112_zpsc8eccff6.jpg

 

Toyota Hiace van (2005 +/- a year) donated this spare tyre carrier. Will need some surgery if I am to get a towbar in - only thought of this shortcoming after.

Is 89 Brumby. The swing arm brackets bolt through the lower ridges of the tray floor, with reinforcement coming later. Lowering bolt goes through floor as well

 

Don't try this yourself unless you have removed the factory fuel tank, I'd hate for you to go hunting for the carrier then try .....

 

Now, with the wheel outta the way, I can reverse the feeder for the twins - IMPCO 100 mixer feeding from an L converter. Converter would normally be a J or "Cobra" size, but supposed to work on an L, that will eventually be supplying an IMPCO 200 mixer and an EA82T

 

DSC06124_zpsf95fadd3.jpg

Edited by jono
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About changing the turbo coolant line to the turbocharger...

OH MY GOODNESS,

Twitch You were RIGHT!

 

That little bit of hose was a ROYAL PAIN IN THE BACKSIDE!

I ended up having to PULL the turbo just to remove ONE little banjo bolt!

That meant disconnecting everything that was associated with the turbo, (intake, output, exhaust output, three nuts to the header assembly...)

I know far more than I ever wanted to know about that little monster.

BUT...

she lives on and the best part is that she DID NOT blow a headgasket, no water in the oil, or oil in the water, no coked turbo bearings, no (major) cracked heads (I've heard that these heads crack at the dealership while waiting to be sold...it's a feature)

So I'll continue to drive her and just enjoy what is left of her nine lives.

 

I say nine because she had a new radiator when I got her so there is some history of cooling system troubles in the past.

so goodness knows how many times she overheated before she came into my life.

 

Pictures...ain't happening, I started to document but got so fed up I just wanted to get on to the next step.

perhaps I will post what I have, but for now suffice the theater of imagination to play out the important bits...mostly fussing at the amount of heat shielding surrounding the turbo. and the lack of space to maneuver in while trying to turn a wrench.

 

Bottom line...She lives on and isn't going to a junk yard anytime soon.

 

Thankfully,

Timothy

So you think that job was bad...

 

Now imagine doing it on a right hand drive model with the brake booster in the way & the steering column snaking it's way past also :o

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I SHOULD be putting all my shiny SUBARU parts together right now. I ordered new head bolts but my only other ride, the #$#!!!@#@%%$%%$$#@#@!@$#$ DODGE, decided all its smart alecky computers would stop talking to each other. Now I got no speedo, no tach, no fuel gauge, no temp, no oil press gauge, no charge indicator, no turn signal. The odometer reads "NO BUS".

 

Do you think that you can just hit the horn button and a switch closes to honk the horn? Noooo sireee. In fancy pants land, we got to have a computer in that horn sending a signal over a PCI (not the same PCI desktop pc's use) bus to another computer at the fuse box which will then switch on your horn. Same thing with headlights and turn signals.  

 

The fuse box isn't just fuses, nope. It is an "Integrated Power Module" (IPM).  It's got to have a computer. And if the fuse box goes bad, that'll be $600 please. Hell for that kind of money, I could hire a midget to sit under the hood turning stuff off and on by voice command!

 

Oh and this 2002 Dodge only has 40K miles on it. Yeah I am the original sucker er owner.   Soo Thursday I am off to the junk yard to spelunk through the junk for my Dodge.

Edited by MR_Loyale
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I hear you about this stuff. I've got a range of vehicles available to choose from at work. Because I need to tow other cars around with it, I've got to get the biggest one (at the biggest lease rate) a turbo diesel Hyundai Santa Fe. Pretty good vehicle but too big for what I need.

I'd prefer the Skoda Octavia wagon. Can still pull 1500kg, but because of the CanBus system, the wiring for the trailer plug is over $1000 :o  The towbar itself is only $600 fitted :P

 

Just more stuff to go wrong in cars these days. My missus wants a new car, and I've told her that I'm not buying anything less than 10 years old, otherwise I can't fix the damn thing myself if need be.

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FINALLY got around to working on assembling/cleaning the rear suspension for the 4WD swap (from an 88 wagon).

 

Got the crossmember coated with OSPHO (LOVE that stuff) and the trailing arms. Got the backing plates banged mostly straight, caliper rebuilt (found the awesome Raybestos kits on eBay with the seals, boots and bleeder cap) and the GL-10 wagon DOES have the 34mm pistons. Cleaned and greased the slides and new Centric rotor, Bendix ceramics.

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Monday I had ordered an instrument cluster for the Dodge that was scheduled to arrive today. I also got an email yesterday that my cam covers were done and ready for pick up in Mukilteo. The Subaru dealer (Peninsula Subaru) also said the head bolts were in.  I also ordered the Exedy clutch kit for my Subaru that should have also come today.

 

So i puttered about on the internet all morning hoping the UPS guy would arrive with my instrument cluster for my Dodge Ram 1500. I didn't want to be on I-5 with no turn signals, no gas gauge, no speedo, no tach, etc. I waited waited waited until 12:30 and then said to heck with it (in stronger language of course).  I waited over three weeks for the cam covers to be done and by God I was getting them today to uplift what has been a depressing week on Dodge drama and little to no progress on the Subaru (due to the Dodge drama).

 

So I set off in the Dodge to get to the place in Mukilteo by 4:30 pm before they close. Not open Saturday so Monday would be the next opportunity. I filled the truck full so watching the gauge was no problem and I had the GPS to tell me my speed. For signals I resorted to the old fashion arm signals to indicate which way I was turning.

 

The first bit of good luck came when I pulled up just in time for the Kingston ferry to Edmonds ferry. I was sure I was going to have to wait an hour at least but I got right on. It was almost 3pm when I arrived at the destination in Mukilteo. I was anxiously contemplating the result all the way up there. Just the thought of the cam covers made me happy inside.

 

I walked up to the counter and the lady handed me what looked like prime steaks from the butcher wrapped in brown outer paper with white tissue inside. "Take a look" she said. She didn't have to ask me twice.

 

So I carefully peeled back the brown paper, then the tissues, and paused for a moment.I think i felt a tear roll down my cheek as I gazed upon this:

 

112_0040.jpg

 

112_0041.jpg

 

112_0042.jpg

 

That is why a dirty greasy engine bay just will not do. I don't want my 20th anniversary engine bling getting messy.  I am even watching my fingerprints. :lol:

 

All I could say over and over was "These are better than new from the factory!" with an awestruck look on my face.  :o

 

I left there at 3:15 pm headed south to the Tacoma Harbor Freight, the only store that had an ODBII code reader with ABS that they had on sale.  I was giddy as a school girl all they way even though it took me almost 4 hours in traffic to get there. Who'd a thunk a little chrome could be so therapeutic? All the time I was driving using my arm signals no longer angered me. I felt like this:

 

 

 

I made it to Tacoma Harbor Freight, got the OBDII scanner, proved that it was the cluster at fault in the Dodge and headed back home. Other than no speedo, gas gauge, tach, cruise control, turn signals, temp gauge, charge indicator, oil pressure gauge or wipers - the truck ran fine. The trans shifted fine. It was the cluster internally couldn't talk to others, not the bus being down despite the "No Bus" message in the odometer window.  Being able to get communication with the PCM (powertrain control module) and TCM (trans control module) using the scanner was proof it was the cluster and not the entire bus. And there were no codes returned either.  Yes, I had proven that I was in deed "Cluster F***ed", so off I went with arm signals heading home.

 

When I arrived back home (about 8 pm) , there were two big boxes waiting for me on my porch. One had the eBay Dodge instrument cluster, which I immediately installed (took 10 min). IT ALL WORKS! All computer in the Dodge now talk nicely. I got turn signals, gas gauge, speedo, wipers, temp, charge gauges and even cruise control works! I can say for certain had I taken it to the Dodge stealership, I wouldn't get out for less than $800-$1000. My eBay cluster costs $75. Only thing is now my 40,000 miles says 203,000 miles, lol. But I will send the cluster back east for reprogramming.

 

The other box had this:

 

112_0038.jpg

 

 

For all the frustration that was this week with the Dodge drama, this day made it all better. Saturday I am getting the head bolts and starting to put the engine back together.

Edited by MR_Loyale
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Happiness!!! I Like it! :D

Chrome and Shiny things on your Ride could be Therapeutic for Sure.

 

 

112_0042.jpg

 
 
Wow, those looks Pretty Nice!!!

Could you provide more info on these?

Kind Regards.

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Happiness!!! I Like it! :D

 

Chrome and Shiny things on your Ride could be Therapeutic for Sure.

 

 

 

 

Wow, those looks Pretty Nice!!!

 

Could you provide more info on these?

 

Kind Regards.

 

 

Sure. What would you like to know?

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Long years ago, I saved a Photo of a equally Shiny covers on a Blue EA82 engine (Let me Search it, I'll share it here soon) and I asked (also in Facebook) about how they made those covers to shine like that; was it Chrome? ... the answer then was "This is not Chrome, 'cos it won't hold good on Aluminium" and they said it should be some kind of Polishment.

 

So, I was curious about how you get to Chrome yours.

 

Kind Regards.

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Well this is definitely chrome. Yes, you can plate chrome onto aluminum. Not sure where you were told it was not possible. Heck you can even plate chrome onto plastic (hmm scratches his head...). ;)

 

Here is the place that did the work:

 

http://queencityplating.com/

 

Looking at the website, I think the reason your facebook friend couldn't get chrome to stick was poor surface preparation. Aluminum can be porous and so just plating over it directly would probably not work well. Queen City spends a lot of time doing surface prep, thus the 4 week wait. When done right, there is just as much artistry and craftsmanship involved as there is chemistry. And it ain't cheap! But can one really put a price on beauty? I think not!

Edited by MR_Loyale

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Finally, let me write that I really wanted to do that to my "BumbleBeast" since many long Years ago (1996) when I managed to Chrome the Valve Cover on my '69 Mercury Coupe, (Click here for Photos) and the local shop which done that, doesn't have what is needed to do that on Aluminium.
 
Kind Regards.

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I dry fitted the covers, towers and head. I am thinking I want to paint the tower, heads and block. What do you think?

 

112_0045.jpg

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no matter how hard I look at those shiny rocker covers - still can't see my own reflection ?? :)

 

I think you will find chrome sticks well to a base coat of copper plating. Again, I think plastics that have been chromed, as well as your alloy parts, get a copper plating first .

 

Dizzy housing could do with same treatment :)

 

Nice ....now starting to see my own image - green tinge about it  :D :D

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Got the good stuff for my transmission. Autozone says they are not carrying it anymore. I got the last three.

 

112_0047.jpg

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Built and installed a wood roof rack. I got creative and didi it real cheap!. I like the look but its just temporary until I can afford a real one ha ha. But it was a fun project! Only thing missing is a cargo net that im going to attach to the hooks.

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After putting about 2k troublefree miles on my EA82 wagon post-engine pull/rebuild, I started the job of pulling the dash to clean the HVAC ducts,etc. due to a mice infestation. The car had sit for 6-7 years before I got it.

 

I'm down to pulling the center stack/heater box and I'm having a heck of a time getting it out. I've got the 2 10mm bolts out of the top and the heater core disconnected but having trouble clearing everything to get it out. As far as I can tell I need to pull the heater core lines thru the firewall at the same time as I'm pulling the box over that lower "mount" it sits on. Maybe I'm not holding my mouth right.... :)

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MR LOYALE. You are doing an excellent job! Keep it up!

 

 

 

I drilled out another pair of hubs properly this time. 

post-24888-0-77075700-1404671929_thumb.jpg

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Made it to the stealership yesterday. Picked up the headbolts, got the throwout bearing carrier clips. Made a trip to Pick N Pull in OR where I found my white Loyale Sedan's twin. Wanted a good white grill. Got there and it wasn't as good as in the pics, but I found a FACTORY FRESH quality front seat. Yeah, it IS that good. The car only had 72K miles when it went to the junkers (sniff). From what I can tell the people just didn't want it anymore. The engine in it looks good to me. Anyhow, know all the buttons for the ac and temp selection and how they are all washed out from years of use? Well these ones are like factory, so I grabbed them to put in my white Loyale. That was Saturday.

 

Oh and today I got this:

 

Copy_of_4wd_loyale_sedan.jpg

 

FINALLY! I got an AWD Subaru!!! :headbang::clap::banana:

 

Only took 20 years. My cherry is popped and I am now officially a Subaru whore. :lol:

Edited by MR_Loyale

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MR LOYALE. You are doing an excellent job! Keep it up!

 

 

 

I drilled out another pair of hubs properly this time. 

 

Thanks man. Fun fact: I bought that Loyale new, in Spokane from Camp Subaru in 1994. In 2012, while visiting a friend in Spokane, I called them to look ( wink wink, yeah I was ready to buy) at the new Impreza's.  I showed up and no one would see me! Could have sold another Subaru and got my praises, but instead they now get my scorn. "We're family" etc BS is just that BS. They could care less about you at the stealerships, especially Camp Subaru stealership.

Edited by MR_Loyale

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