Subaruist Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 (edited) I have a deal pending with someone for 5, yes FIVE matching 6 lug rims for $100.00. It will be a drive to get them, guy will be confirming measurements, including the center bore hole for me tomorrow. I believe these are the ones: CORRECTION - I think THESE are actually the ones: They have bald "Super Swampers" on them. I can have them taken off, but My new concern now is how the hell do I haul 5 of these monsters back ??? My Brat pick-up bed is kinda full of stuff, some of it just a little too fragile to be under these monsters. I guess I could put the stuff somewhere, but then going from Grants Pass back to Medford on the freeway with the additional weight of these would be bad on my bad clutch and my bad bearings. - Oh, by the way, My temp agency did not register my pay card (direct deposit debit card) so I didn't get my pay!!!, and the Subaru Mechanic so hard to get an appointment with was due to replace my bearings tomorrow !!! Oh,what a complictaed life I lead, lol... They are 15" rims. General opinion that I have seen here on the forums is that I would need a lift kit to use them, is this strictly true? If I am only driving on the street - nice and easy? I can get a lift kit later... More importantly, the guy says that they are 8 inches wide, as in that might be a problem. I know they would be a bit harder to steer, but would that be too wide to turn corners without rubbing? Is that unusually wide? would it be hard or expensive to find tires for? The plan is to drll the two extra holes in the rims to bolt them on my 1983 Subaru Brat stock hubs, and I think I have found a place that will do it for me. I need to know soon as I do not want to commit to buying them until I know. OOPS - another consideration - will ANY tire on 8 inch wide 15" rims fit under my hood where the spare tire goes?!? Thanks in advance. Edited November 23, 2014 by Subaruist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 (edited) Working on the power door locks on Ash, my red sedan. Was blowing fuses instantly. Took off all the door panels to unplugs the actuators. Two on the passenger side had mounting screws that would not come out so I had to drill them out. After disconnecting all the actuators, turns out the switch in the driver door was the issue. Cleaned the connection up as it looks like it took a bath in dirty dielectric grease. Cleaned it up and it stopped blowing fuses. Must have been a conductive grease the PO put in there as none of the actuator connectors looked like that. Got both driver side doors reassembled and also greased the power window mechanism. Now I still got the passenger side to do. Before I can do that though, I have to remove the remains in one mounting screw from each of the actuators in the passenger side doors. Never used an EZ-OUT before. Hope I don't screw it up. Edited November 23, 2014 by MR_Loyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaruist Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 (edited) Working on the power door locks on Ash, my red sedan. Was blowing fuses instantly. Took off all the door panels to unplugs the actuators. Two on the passenger side had mounting screws that would not come out so I had to drill them out. After disconnecting all the actuators, turns out the switch in the driver door was the issue. Cleaned the connection up as it looks like it took a bath in dirty dielectric grease. Cleaned it up and it stopped blowing fuses. Must have been a conductive grease the PO put in there as none of the actuator connectors looked like that. Got both driver side doors reassembled and also greased the power window mechanism. Now I still got the passenger side to do. Before I can do that though, I have to remove the remains in one mounting screw from each of the actuators in the passenger side doors. Never used an EZ0OUT before. Hope I don't screw it up. I know how you feel, lol... #1: I have to go through virtually every electrical connector toclean them out and freshen the actual metalof the contacts. When I have to do something like this, I use cheap, disposable emory boards for fingernails and break parts cleaner, as brake parts cleaner tends to be safe for most plastics, with readily cut through most grimeand petroleum products residue, grease, old oil fume build-up, etc. and leaves no traces behind. The emory boards have an ideal thickness, and with old/cheap wire cutters can be cut to the needed width. They have enough grit to cut through pretty much anything, and quickly leave clean metal behind. You can get a pack of several at Walmart in the cosmetics section for less than a buck and a half, more than enough for even a major job, like cleaningevery connector in a vehicle you can get to. #2: When I was installing my new auxillary driving lights, Three times in a row, when I tried tp loosen a 10mm bolt to use for a ground, it snapped off with surprizingly little effort due to rust and age, which tells me what I can look forward to elsewhere, and that I will have to use penetrating oil/nut looseneron any and every bolt or screw going into metal. I found this stuff, I forget the brand name, but it advertised thatit also actively cut through rust, and it has actually worked better than any penetrating oil/nut loosener that I have ever used before. It was expensive at nearly 8 bucks a can, but has worked well for the money. #3: Probably too late for what you are doing, but especially in an older vehicle, if you have to open up the door panels, I would strongly recommend greasing or somehow lubricating the window tracks/guides as long as you are in there, and maybe even putting some sound deadening and/orinsulationg material in there. Aside from the stuff usualy meant for that, there is something similar but possibly superior that you can get at home improvement centers meant to go under your carpet. It is thicker than the automotive variety, and when used with the automotive variety can have a dramatic effect without adding much weight or taking up much space, or costing too much. -That reminds me - I should do that when I get to installing my next set of speakers in the doors ! Edited November 23, 2014 by Subaruist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Just did a test drive with the transmission swap. Works great, and fixed the 4WD binding up problem also! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 I know how you feel, lol... #1: I have to go through virtually every electrical connector toclean them out and freshen the actual metalof the contacts. When I have to do something like this, I use cheap, disposable emory boards for fingernails and break parts cleaner, as brake parts cleaner tends to be safe for most plastics, with readily cut through most grimeand petroleum products residue, grease, old oil fume build-up, etc. and leaves no traces behind. The emory boards have an ideal thickness, and with old/cheap wire cutters can be cut to the needed width. They have enough grit to cut through pretty much anything, and quickly leave clean metal behind. You can get a pack of several at Walmart in the cosmetics section for less than a buck and a half, more than enough for even a major job, like cleaningevery connector in a vehicle you can get to. #2: When I was installing my new auxillary driving lights, Three times in a row, when I tried tp loosen a 10mm bolt to use for a ground, it snapped off with surprizingly little effort due to rust and age, which tells me what I can look forward to elsewhere, and that I will have to use penetrating oil/nut looseneron any and every bolt or screw going into metal. I found this stuff, I forget the brand name, but it advertised thatit also actively cut through rust, and it has actually worked better than any penetrating oil/nut loosener that I have ever used before. It was expensive at nearly 8 bucks a can, but has worked well for the money. #3: Probably too late for what you are doing, but especially in an older vehicle, if you have to open up the door panels, I would strongly recommend greasing or somehow lubricating the window tracks/guides as long as you are in there, and maybe even putting some sound deadening and/orinsulationg material in there. Aside from the stuff usualy meant for that, there is something similar but possibly superior that you can get at home improvement centers meant to go under your carpet. It is thicker than the automotive variety, and when used with the automotive variety can have a dramatic effect without adding much weight or taking up much space, or costing too much. -That reminds me - I should do that when I get to installing my next set of speakers in the doors ! Roger that on #3. Used real grease this time instead of just a shot of WD40. The two I have done glide like new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaruist Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 C'mon guys - I need some input... 15" X 8" wide rims - no tires yet, can I put normal tires on these and have enough original clearance to drive with them without a lift kit, and be able to turn without rubbing something ?!? Are tirss for such rims hard to get or costly? I have to call this guy today to confirm sale/purchase... Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 C'mon guys - I need some input... 15" X 8" wide rims - no tires yet, can I put normal tires on these and have enough original clearance to drive with them without a lift kit, and be able to turn without rubbing something ?!? Are tirss for such rims hard to get or costly? I have to call this guy today to confirm sale/purchase... Thanks. Depending on where you buy your tires, a lot of places, if they have a used tire in the size you want, will mount it on your wheel and see if it fits under the car. Bigger tires always cost more but availability isnt a problem for that size. I suggest you look into this, I was able to do it Discount Tire a few years ago with a XT6. And no, a 15" wheel and tire will not fit under the hood. And I would spend the $ to get my bearings fixed before getting wheels/tires first. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaruist Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Depending on where you buy your tires, a lot of places, if they have a used tire in the size you want, will mount it on your wheel and see if it fits under the car. Bigger tires always cost more but availability isnt a problem for that size. I suggest you look into this, I was able to do it Discount Tire a few years ago with a XT6. And no, a 15" wheel and tire will not fit under the hood. And I would spend the $ to get my bearings fixed before getting wheels/tires first. Thanks - For future refernce purposes, will a normal 14" rim and tire fit under the hood??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaruist Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 (edited) Uh oh... I was about to have to design my own reverse/mirror image Hot Wheels decal from scratch, and this time when I searched, I found a few examples of just that online ! That will make things much easier !!! Edited November 23, 2014 by Subaruist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Thanks - For future refernce purposes, will a normal 14" rim and tire fit under the hood??? Not unless you deflate the tyre 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaruist Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Not unless you deflate the tyre - Ad dammit... This whole rim and tire thing is driving me up a wall! Thanks Wagonist, at least that's one way to do it if I have to, but I wonder that if I carried a spare with no air in it, if it would hold air when I need to inflate it, lol... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Didn't do anything to my Subarus, but I did go for a four hour cruise in the PandaWagon after church. Buzzed down dirt roads, threw her sideways through a couple corners, had a grand ole time! Sorry, only pic I took was of the dust cloud on Kansas Settlement Road south of Wilcox, AZ: The crosswinds can get pretty impressive in the Wilcox valley. Even at 55, the PandaWagon was getting pushed around by those winds. When I got back on the Interstate, I was fighting those same winds, but in a headwind. Vacuum gauge was reading much lower than usual and the trucks and RVs were moving slower than me and I was cruising at 65. Not that I couldn't do the speed limit of 75, I just didn't feel like driving that fast. Overall, it was a very nice drive on a beautiful day in my favorite Subaru, The PandaWagon. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 - Ad dammit... This whole rim and tire thing is driving me up a wall! Thanks Wagonist, at least that's one way to do it if I have to, but I wonder that if I carried a spare with no air in it, if it would hold air when I need to inflate it, lol... I just remembered that if you've got a Weber carb, it may just fit. Not sure how the piping layout is on the SPFI. You know there's a bolt down place in the cargo/trunk for a wheel? Meant to be for the turbo models that only have a space saver but it's been on every body shell that I've ever seen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaruist Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 (edited) I just remembered that if you've got a Weber carb, it may just fit. Not sure how the piping layout is on the SPFI. You know there's a bolt down place in the cargo/trunk for a wheel? Meant to be for the turbo models that only have a space saver but it's been on every body shell that I've ever seen I don't have said feature. I could obviously carry one in the pick-up bed of my Brat, but aside from a personal preference not too, It is just too handy having in in the engine compartment, and altthough there are other uses for that space under the hood, I like the spare beingthere, and if at all possible want it there. I think (THINK) That if I stick with my original plan of getting 14" rims, and putting fairly small tires on them, that would probably work. I have given up on the 15" X 8" wide rims. If those rims were 14", I would have gotten them for cool looking mags, but not 15". That is just pushing things farther than I want to. Edited November 27, 2014 by Subaruist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaruist Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 (edited) Today I finished fixing my windshield wiper bases (is that what they are called?). I have not mentioned them before. One was cracked/broken. SoI got two 2-part epoxies. One was a liquid dual syringe type toglue the parts together, and then I used a 2-part putty epoxy a couple days later (yesterday - tuesday) to reenforce and build up the base. The 2-part putty epoxy was too thick to glue the pieces together but was superior. Today I also used the 2-part putty epoxy on the other windshield wiper base just to try to make sure it would not be the next thing to break. Both bases are now much thicker and stronger around the base, and I have done all that can be done for them short ofreplacing them. I think it would be a good thing if someone were to use one of these bases to make a re-usable mold, then re-cast them in aluminum preferrably, or maybe even in zinc, which would be pretty easy. (one might have to refine the center hole) Those cast metal bases would probably never break, and one could make somedecent money selling them to those of use who have had broken bases for a permanent repar/solution. If I did not have such a long list of projects myself, I would do it. I also finally fixed the last little leak in my cooling system. That little hose from the intake manifold to the base under the carb. When I went to take the old one off, it pretty much just fell apart, it was rotten with age. Instead of getting the official shaped replacement for nearly $13.00, I got a litttle over a foot (after cutting) of some heavy duty cooling system hose (much thicker wall) for just under $2 and ran it around the front of the distributor to each (nozzle?). I bet that's not a new trick, lol. What made this simple repair unnecessarily more difficult was that O'Reilly did not have any hose clamp using a phillips head screwdriver, but the slotted screw type. I hate slotted screw anything. - and they were also stiff to adjust, making it that much harder, so I slapped together a long 1/4" socket driver assembly onto my bit driver with a socket and that made it easier. Finally !... I have fixed 3 different leaks in the cooling system now. and it now seems intact and functioning. I have not been able to post pics because my camera itself has now gone bad. I will maybe get out my old 5 megapixle Olympus. It has been a good and depenable camera. Edited November 27, 2014 by Subaruist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaruist Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 (edited) I received my Dealer shop repair manual the other day, and last night was finally able to enjoy it. I was almost giddy, like a kid on Christmas morning, lol. It is nearly 3 inches thick, and has real weight and heft! My only dissapointment with it is that I was hoping it would have more part numbers for misc. parts and bits. But otherwise, one could not hope for a better repair manual. I am tempted to make a special case for it. Years ago, a friend gave me the same type manual for my 1978/1979 Brats. The cover was about dust, so I took the whole book apart, page by page, made a major investment in sheet protectors, and put the whole manual in sheet protectors in a huge parts store notebook binder. Edited November 27, 2014 by Subaruist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaruist Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 Found a new gadget/toy on Ebay I may have to get: - I want to do more than under the doors with it though - Maybe shine it on the road just ahead of the bumper? Facing forward on to any wall I park in front of? I wonder if one can get custom logos, like Brat, or Subaru Parking only, etc??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 I just reckon that would be another place for rust to come through. The bootom of the doors are bad enough already And as for the extra bolt down in the cargo area for spare wheel, I realised thats a "Loyale" only type feature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike300z Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 Did alittle 2 tracking in the woods 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 What have I done to my Subie, Lately? Beside Driving a Lot doing hundreds of errands, I Corrected the Front's Geometry, back to Stock Specs again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 This is How I Corrected the Front's Geometry, back to Stock Specs again: The 2" SJR lift kit comes with small Engine Crossmember's Blocks to Gain Ground Clearance, I changed them with another Blocks... ...that brings back the Geometry to close to stock measurements, Now the Steering Wheel is Soft again and the car seems to be better to Maneuver. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 Mo' info, here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113907-lookin-for-a-front-lil-lift/page-2 Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-tombba- Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 I honed cleaned and painted my block halves today: https://www.dropbox.com/s/u97o6alz1lhwuth/2014-11-28%2019.20.35.jpg?dl=0 I also painted the heads too. Got some paint on the gasket surfaces too but it should come off pretty easily fro them. I already resurfaced them and grinded the valve seats too: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4fqdnti2q8zb24f/2014-11-28%2022.14.54.jpg?dl=0 This is my backup engine but it's getting all new pistons, bearings, gaskets, timing kit and water pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 Found a new gadget/toy on Ebay I may have to get: - I want to do more than under the doors with it though - Maybe shine it on the road just ahead of the bumper? Facing forward on to any wall I park in front of? I wonder if one can get custom logos, like Brat, or Subaru Parking only, etc??? Crap damn you! Now I will have to get one or maybe TWO of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 (edited) knocked up an insulated divider , race car style, to encourage cooler outside air for the intake. Intention is to keep the heat of the radiated air just passed through radiator - away from intake. Took about ten minutes to make using a paper bonded foam sign board available from newsagents, stationers etc MKI was white and showed up dirty marks, stained etc, this is MKII, so a little better developed, using faster construction materials such as the pipe insulation and colour contrast silicon - just a big trail of it on the board, lay pipe insulation in roughly preferred path, shut lid to hold things in place while silicon set Was part of a tune up urgently needed due to the EA82 Y pipe I installed. I think it allowed EA81 exhaust valves to run hotter, decreasing the 4 thou hot set clearance to nothing, riding the valves and gave low comp on one bank and serious low speed idle issues once engine was fully warmed up, also increased consumption markedly to about 64 litres for 440km !. Reset tappets to cam maker specs of 6 & 8 thou, new spark plugs BP7ES , range colder for hotter burning propane fuel. I bettered my target fuel range by 1.6 litres - did 63.35 litres 540 km on propane Edited November 28, 2014 by jono 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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