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What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)

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i have done a lot, depending on the definition of "lately", lol.


i built an engine for my wrx, sti block and crank, eagle rods, cosworth 100mm pistons, arp head studs, BC high rpm valve springs and retainers, headers, blouche 440xt turbo, turbo back exhaust, process west verticooler, id1000 injectors, iag tgv deletes, and probably more that i cant remember, lol. tuned to 390whp and 395 tq with a bad spark plug, lol.


more recently, i got a jdm ej20x to swap into my baja turbo that ate a piston a while back. that swap is getting close to done, just need to finish the timing belt and drop it into the car.


even more recently than that, i picked up a set of mostly rust free doors for my brat. i also got a full 2012 wrx suspension to try to fit under it. i also got a freshly rebuilt set of 4/2 pot wrx brakes to go with it. i am hoping to get it up and running by this summer and set up for stage rally by next race season.


ive been busy, lol

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Took my tax return and put it towards doing the suspension on my Legacy. It's a 1998 Legacy L wagon, so I had base suspension on there (with some 205/70/R14 tires for a little lift). I did a bunch of research and decided on Outback struts, Forester springs, 16" wheels, and 27" A/T tires.

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Very very very very happy with the result. Exactly what I wanted, lots of ground clearance but could still pass as stock to the untrained eye. I put all new 1998 Legacy Outback KYB GR-2 struts, all new KYB strut mounts, all new 1998 Forester base M/T Moog springs, all new OEM Forester upper spring perches and seats (for the front struts), all new Moog inner and outer tie rod ends, used Outback trailing arm brackets, used 16" 2nd gen Outback wheels, and all new 215/65R16 General Grabber AT2 tires.


Handles VERY nicely. Even though I'm higher up, it corners much better than before (mostly due to new struts). The suspension is a lot stiffer than it used to be, but still smooth and comfortable over bumps and offroad. The tires are a perfect fit! The only rubbing I've heard so far was at full lock doing a tight u-turn, and maybe once while backing up and turning. But it's so minor, even with the radio off and no noises, it can barely be heard. Maybe if I had mud flaps, they might rub on the front. Also I'm very impressed with how well the tires fit in the wheel well. I was worried the offset on the wheels (and wider wheels) would make it stick out more, but it's perfect.


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Performance hasn't been a big issue, even with the 3.9 gears and 2.2 engine. I'm used to driving my 2" lifted EA82 on 27" tires, so for reference, it's easier to drive than that. Acceleration is definitely slower but I didn't buy this car to go fast. These wheels/tires are around 46 lbs a piece, whereas my 205/70R14 tires on steel wheels (before I lifted the car) were around 40 lbs a piece. For how much tire I got, that extra weight is really marginal. I am planning on getting a 4.11 Outback gearbox and diff in the future, but I just replaced my transmission a couple months ago (got the car for cheap, wouldn't go into 4th, then clutch started going out), so I am not looking at doing that any time soon.


As far as alignment goes, I did my own alignment (I work at a shop) and was able to get everything in spec. I had purchased camber bolts for the rear struts for camber and toe adjustments on all 4 wheels. I got everything within spec, and it drives straight. All 4 camber adjustments are maxed out, and one rear toe adjustment is maxed out (other is almost maxed). But like I said, all within spec and pretty close to preferred values. Rears have a little more negative camber (-0.7) than preferred (-0.5). Fronts have a little more positive camber (+0.0) than preferred (-0.2). Rear wheels are barely toed out (-0.10) compared to preferred (+0.0). So yeah, it's just barely off of preferred values but still within spec and I can hardly tell the difference in how it drives (most people wouldn't notice, I just do alignments for a living so I can notice). Going to be doing another alignment soon now that the suspension is more broken in, curious to see how the numbers changed.


Curious to see how the CV axles hold up too. I think they will be fine, they don't look like they are at too bad of angles (especially compared to the EA82), but you never know. All in all, it took me a day to do everything. Did it at my shop so a lift, full air tools, and a wall-mounted spring compressor made easy work of the job. What wasted my time was one of the tack welded nuts on the trailing arm brackets broke, so I ended up cutting a hole in my floor pan under the rear seat to put a socket on the nut. Anyways, I'll stop rambling on, haha.


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Edited by jj421
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Had to do the hood release on my car as the old one broke. I found a kebab skewer worked well to open it up. 

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Well, I finally took the plunge after limping my 13" maypop baldies with belts showing along as long as I could, till one did pop. Just didn't want to buy any more 13s. 




So after many hours of reading about 6-lug swaps here, I decided that would be the cheapest, easiest route. The problem with most of the threads here is they are all about off-roading with lifted cars. There was very, very, little I could find about doing this swap on a stock height car with low-profile tires. What little there was had no pictures anymore because of photosucket.


So I took a trip to the only pick-n-pull in the area. Really, a terrible yard, with absolutely no organization whatsoever. You have to go over the whole yard usually, just to start and see what's available. And many of the cars are so packed together, you can't even walk between them. I found one set of 15" steel Isusu 6-lugs in the offset I figured I would need. 60 bucks for the set... pretty happy about that.  :P And they were actually going to charge me extra for the mixmatched, flat, half-bald tires that were on there (??) but they removed them for free.


Now, these wheels are well made, but HEAVY!! The center flange that I had to drill was 3/8" steel  :blink: and the rest of the center was a healthy 1/4". I was gonna weigh them before I got them on the car, but I was too excited to stop and do so. Really, part of me just didn't want to know. 


I was gonna hit up someone here to send me a front hub, maybe one with stripped splines, to use as a template, but I ended up just taking one of mine off, and bopping two of the studs out. I then made a drill bushing with a nut by first drilling out the threads with my pilot drill bit, and then, with the nut spinning on the pilot bit, I dressed down the OD with a right-angle grinder (shadetree lathe), till it just pushed inside the stud holes. 




Bolted the hub to the wheels, drilled the pilot through the bushing, then drilled to 1/2", Bob's your uncle.


After hours of brooding over tire size, I finally settled on 205/50R15s, which are ever so slightly taller than stock, and filled out beautifully on the 7 inch rims. Wallyworld got me Hankooks for 50 bucks each, and they really look like great tires. Took hardly any weight to balance, which is a good sign for the rims and tires. 


Fit without issue on the front, but it gets close in a couple of spots. The rear... was going to rub the inner fender lip under compression. I've never rolled any fenders, but I remember an old hot rodder telling me about using a baseball bat to do so. I couldn't find a full-size wooden bat anywhere locally, but I did have a piece of 2" PVC electrical conduit. Started out driving the car forward with the conduit rolling between the tire and body. With a stick and a string on the loose end of the conduit, so I could guide it (would work better with 2 people). Then finished by letting the car roll back down the driveway while levering the conduit down to push the flange up. Worked great. 


Then, after some cleaning and Krylon, I can't stop looking at it!!  :bouncy:










Now, I have yet to try and drill a chamfer on the new holes so it will accept a traditional lug nut. For now, I just have regular nuts and lockwashers on the drilled holes, and center the wheels on the car with the factory holes. It's smooth as glass at 80 mph, so I think I can go back now and chamfer the drilled holes, as long as they are perfectly centered around the stud. Or, I could just get some flat-bottom chrome acorn nuts, and leave well enough alone.  :rolleyes:

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Fm antenna 1.5m - couldn't find a decent height car one, this one's for a boat and ground plane dependent. GME brand from ebay $75. Used a step drill to 20mm to bore the hole.





Next was replacement alternator. $175 locally here in Aus, got this one from rockauto to the door for $90. Cheers.



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Bought a Toyota front axle for the gl, and put a 20" light bar on my roof rack.


Edited by espey_16
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Installed a UHF 6.5dB antenna on my Brumby's rollbar.


Made a bracket from ally flatbar



Mounted the antenna



Pushed a coat hanger wire through to the cab and taped the lead to it.



Used a rubber grommet to make it waterproof.



Looks like this when installed.



Cable run.






Cheers, Knucklehead.

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Sweet looking brumby Knucklehead!


Have you thought about making the aerial cable pass through the sports bar to eliminate the cable ties? Two holes, two grommets...


And how did you mount the UHF in the vehicle?





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Hey Bennie, cheers man !


UHF Head unit is not mounted yet but its going in where the original tape deck sits now. I gotta find some plastic fascia so I can custom build a face plate. The 80ch is smaller than the tape deck.


Great idea on the rollbar too. Its coming out for a coat of gloss black when I paint out the bed so I'll have a crack at it then (that way I can get the bottom hole facing the side of the tray).


Hopefully I can get the uhf installed next tuesday on my day off :)


Cheers, Knucklehead.

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Well, I couldn't find an old ratty wheel to cannibalize for my aftermarket wheel adapter, so I just used mine.

Made a plastic bushing to center the pilot bit, and holesawed away.

Then flattened out the little bend on one edge with a BFH, and drilled and tapped for the new wheel.

Best thing about this method (other than being cheap) is the horn and turn signal cancel cam work just like factory! 

I had this same style wheel back in high school in a 72 Opel GT that I stuffed a 1963, 215 CI. aluminum Oldsmobile V8 into, and always loved the wheel. 




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