DaveT

Checked the filter in the injector, it is clean.

ok, Ill look at the old one.

I found the problem! Swapped throttle body top 2 layers. This include fuel pressure reg, IAC valve, and Injector. Runs fine now. Since the regulator measured good, and the IAC was swapped earlier, I'm going with the injector is bad.

Yeah, I figured the IAC shouldn't bother open throttle. I did have a wagon years ago that had a broken wire in the IAC circuit years ago. It ran fine, but died if I let the pedal go to idle. I also put a voltmeter on the 12V powered side of the ignition coil, and it was steady except for slight variations because the alternator rpm varying.

More things checked - Spark plug wires, checked ok, but swapped anyways, no effect. TPS switch and pot both are withing normal settings / ranges. One other thing I forgot to put in the OP, it starts right up no problem - no hard start.

SPFI in 93, I think I read to 94. I checked the EGR valve after the OP, and yes, it is working normally. Took it off to check that it wasn't stuck open, etc.

Coolant normal. Fuel pressure stays steady at 22 PSI, just like my other EA82 SPFI wagon. Never moves vs throttle position or load. No recent fuel up. The roughness seems more random than cylinder specific. I'll try to check the exhaust pulses tomorrow. I also swapped the distributor since the original post, no change.

This car is in a garage, driven a couple times per week. Suddenly, yesterday while driving, - Runs rough. Idle, dies. Idle in N dies. I did manage to drive it home, Seemed to run ok down the road, not acting like starved for fuel. In N, press the gas and hold, the RPM goes up, [example 2500]. Then after a second or 2 drops about 500, and the roughness returns. Does this regardless of what RPM you get initially - goes up, then drops back. Does this hot or cold. Capped the vacuum tap on the passenger side, no effect. This eliminates EGR, Evap, HVAC controls as possible culprits. Capped the vacuum tap for the brake booster, no effect. Distributor cap & rotor look normal, not loose. Timing belts are good, not jumped. Swapped the MAF, no effect. Swapped the IAC valve, no effect. CTS has nominal normal readings. Fuel pressure normal 22-23 PSI. Ignition coil & igniter swapped, no effect. ECU swapped - Still runs crap / same, but doesn't quite die at idle in N Running out of ideas....

Its best to start a.new thread for your problem. Things that can cause bad running- first things to check, in no particular order - Bad fuel, Bad coolant temp sensor. Low fuel pressure, blocked cat.

Here is my collection of CTS info -

Check the CTS and wiring for it. Its the 2 wire sensor on the lower thermostat housing.

Which automatic? A 3AT should be manageable. Im not familiar with the gl10 other than they usually have a turbo.

That one goes to the fuel tank. The whole reason that system is there is to collect the fuel vapors, and let them get burned in the engine.

Maybe struts for a Nissan Rogue? I haven't tried this - but I came across this video - at 10:30 you can see the struct clamps into the knuckle similar to the Subaru ones. I don't have any to measure. I figure the top end is easier to mod or swap.

On my non turbo EA82s, for purge solenoids, and the egr solenoid, I use Toyota solenoids. Almost every Subaru solenoid I have ever had has died. I am still using the same Toyota ones I got at a scrap yard in 1989. I've had about 7 of these cars over the time from 1988 til present. I don't know what model the solenoids were removed from, but it was a similar age as the car, so late 80s. They are not unique, so it doesn't matter. 3 ports, just have to test.which are equivalent function, replace the connector with the one off the dead subaru solenoid.