Verdurous Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 Hi fellow subaru lovers! I have had several subarus over the years and I loved them all. A GL Hatch was my first car. Currently I own a 1988 subaru GL hatch 4x4. The engine is built with decked heads, polished valves, aggresive cam, msd ignition, ea82 intake manifold, It sits on a 4" lift, with peugot 14's and 28 mud/snow tires. I love this car, and I have kept it rust free in New York. It's white with blue interior. The car has been running amazingly for the last 2-3 years. But suddenly I am having issues with over heating. This started to happen shortly after I lifted the car. I checked my timing, checked for air leaks, checked the water pump, removed thermostat, I also adjusted my weber with no success. Could the 4 inch body lift with the radiator sitting higher raise the temp? I'm running dual spal 14" fans offset one pusher and one puller. Any suggestion or help would be most appreciated! Thank you ~ Verdurous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Verdurous Posted March 11, 2013 Author Share Posted March 11, 2013 Oh I also made custom seat mouts that are currently holding blue plush acura type R racing seats that have nice side supports, kidney adjusters, and accomidate my 6'4" height much better than the stock ones did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 Is your car actually showing physical signs of overheating or is the dash gauge showing that the engine is running hot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Verdurous Posted March 11, 2013 Author Share Posted March 11, 2013 Is your car actually showing physical signs of overheating or is the dash gauge showing that the engine is running hot? Both the gauge and signs, minor dieseling after shut off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Without knowing more about what has been done, my best guess would be that something (rag) didn't get pulled out of the rad or pump upon reassembly after the lift. Most other things (that you have already checked) that would have a dramatic overheating effect would also make a noticeable impact on the idle and running condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Verdurous Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 it has a pretty mean idle with the cam, 400 rpm or so. It's smooth and raspy. I did a compression check on it to and it was good. Nothing in the anti freeze either, flushed that and changed the oil. Is it possible to get air trapped in the system? I have the heater core bypassed and the hose looped back into the manifold atm. Radiator is 3 years old from when I rebuilt the engine. Is it ok to run with no thermostat? I think I'll have to tear it down this weekend and double check everything. Just keep beating myself up on this one because I have no idea what is going on with it. Normally this engine/car is the most reliable thing I have ever owned. Also what's the deal with autozone looking up 1988 EA81 and trying to give us EA82 parts? The guy put it on the screen and it was showing my car as feul injected with timing belts... I was laughing pretty hard. There new system must have some kinks in it. Going to flush the gastank too, that gas has got to be pretty old by now. Not sure how this ethonol garbage holds up, but I know my BMW hates it. Thanks for the help btw! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ystrdyisgone Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 I don't have too much experience in this area, but I'm gonna throw out some ideas that came to mind. If you used the stock radiator hoses, are they kinked at all from the new angles? As far as coolant going into the engine, gravity says it flows better with the lift. But the return line is a different story. Maybe that increase in angle is enough to slow down the coolant flow to an unsatisfactory level? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Verdurous Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 So anyway I found out the issue. On the back of the intake manifold, that little EGR valve thing. Well it was stuck open. The seal must be leaking because it just stays open. I disconnected it and cut/drilled a 1/4" steel plate to cover it and made a new gasket. Also closed off the port for it on the head. Car seems to run better than ever. Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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