Leaderboard

And way too tall and heavy to fit in the loyale. MAYBE if you used an entire Nissan front suspension. Maybe. Will NOT fit in the loyale with it's stock crossmember/suspension. Doesn't matter because obvious by the Redneckeery goin on in this thread, you will never swap in anything. Great job F-in up a car that's lasted in really nice condition for years. EGR lowers cyl temperatures. If you understood it, you'd have known it wasn't necessary to weld the intake side of that pipe if you've blocked off the port with the beer can. PCV removes corrosive gasses from the engine oil Hillholders are awesome. Only annoying to those who can't figure out how to use them. Coolant Temp sensor is possibly one of the MOST important sensor to making the car run right. You left the D-check connectors, but cut out the white, U-check connector that ACTUALLY IS THE PAIR THAT OUTPUTS STORED CODES!!! And now you won't be able to use the "clear memory" either. That requires BOTH sets of connectors. The 4wd transfer cannot handle 90hp in RWD for long, let alone 200hp. Guaranty you break it within 3 months. Especially if yer trying to "drift" That car will not start in the winter. It will probably be ruined by then anyhow. Oh wait, never mind, it's already ruined. But it's yer car so "tweek" on it all you want.

Hopefully going to be firing up this project again this summer. Stay tuned.

reboot them instead of replace them. or get a used one and reboot it.

This is the Newest member of my Family: Mr. Honey a Golden Cocker Spaniel who also Loves my "BumbleBeast"

Looking and sounding good mate. It’s a big project you’ve undertaken. Remember the end goal! and keep up the good work! Thise chrome trim pieces in the windscreen/windshield rubbers - I’ve found them to be much easier to install with the rubber on the glass prior to fitting the glass to the vehicle Cheers Bennie

Did the mechanic retain the original Intake manifold? Or did he just drop an entire replacement in with a J-yard intake? Possible year model wiring difference if so? Also, This model is notorious for the fuel pump unit's "surge" compartment's metal cap and o-ring leaking, causing low fuel pressure/volume and causing hard starts, and weird running performance. Check the fuel pressure with a gauge. Watch for bleed down at shut off. Pull the pump unit from tank by lifting rear seat and pulling up the rubber mat and opening the access panel underneath.

There is no performance benefit to doing this. You're just unnecessarily polluting the air you breathe. GD

little compromise. put a catch can in in for collecting the oil goo. you can make one out of a pickle jar or a nicer once since you can weld. benefits everyone, your motor will be happier without the gases in the case, nothing is dumped on the ground, no smoke on turns. just cause you can doesnt mean you should. theres no cost in performance or maintenance to collect your toxins in the catch can, so why not make things a little cleaner on the water system.

I'll tell you exactly why, Bennie The farther you get from the mountains, the less grace and finesse is needed for offroading. A nice k5 chevy blazer (cool!) Or a diesel truck (poo) is lovely in the desert or sand dunes, or where a rwd sand rail will be loads of fun is not really a place for a lightweight subaru...clearly the superior off roader in most conditions. It's hilarious to see some fool from Texas in a lifted 2wd or diesel stuck in the snow, I've helped a few out and 4lo is extra beast with ej22 Hence, CO and WA = L body aficionados South = ford raptor or crappier, unless vintage jeep with chevy engine but no subarus

It's important when upshifting to the next gear too. Some people like to feel the "pull" all the way through the shift, so they are already on throttle as they let the clutch out, and they just let the sucker slip until the car catches up the RPMs. Automatics can do this, in a sense, because the hydraulics can transfer the force from one valve to the next in a buffered fashion (via accumulators) But for a Dry clutch Manual, it's just friction material and if you slip it, it won't last long. I learned from test driving heavy dump trucks and Semis that if you throttle through the shift, you will smoke that trucks clutch in moments. Heck If you stab the throttle uphill already in gear and moving, but in too high a gear, you'll smoke it. So you have to be almost fully off throttle (just enough to keep RPMs where they need to be at the next gear) while shifting and until the clutch is completely released. once you are fully engaged with the next gear, then you hit the throttle. So there is a moment of "coasting" in neutral while you are moving the stick, and until you release the clutch. Not the fastest way to drive but the best for the clutch.

I work on subarus all day, every day. Every 2.5 that hasn't had very recent headgaskets has at least some oil seeping at the corners of the heads. ALL of them. EJ25 engines of all years can have full Head gasket failure. Not every engine, but a significant amount of all years. The reason the OP is seeing higher prices for the more common, smaller 2.5 is that there is a much higher demand for replacements for the 2.5. Along with HG issues, timing belt breakage takes out a good amount of EJ25 also. That doesn't really happen with the timing chain driven EZ30. The 3.0 doesn't have as many failures. And there were only about one made for every twenty EJ25. There just is a much smaller group of people out there looking for replacements for the 3.0.

on a 96, the rear O2 sensor is a 'nanny' for cat. converter only. The ECU doesn't use it for a:f adjustment - but, if the signal is missing/outside its range, the cel will light. Dunno if that can be deleted with ECU Flash or some other tuning trick on a 96. So, the car should run fine - slightly better I'd think since you're a few pounds lighter with less exhaust restriction.

I am thinking of writing Subaru very sternly worded letter. STERNLY! 215,000 miles and I blew a flex brake line. What crap. They just dont make things last anymore

The other truck model looked like this;

Picked up these two very unusual models at a local antique show. They are made of a soft wood and appear to have been made around the same time that these vehicles were new. They seem to be professionally made rather than by a Subaru fan with mad woodworking/modeling skills. They are about 20" long 7" tall and 6" wide. Could they be a corporate thing, used for promotional or advertising? Or a dealer thing? They are really cool but have been banged up over the years. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Green pair = D-CHeck........a self diagnostic of sorts. Cycles fuel pump relay and tests readiness of the systm White pair = Read mode......Outputs stored codes The other big conenctors are for subaru SSM computer and a line end test port for the harness when it went in the car. Keep the pairs unhooked for regular driving. Plug BOTH sets together and run engine for 30 sec until CEL flashes to clear old codes.

on both my cars, o-rings fixed the problem. don't over-torque the bolt on the elbow adapter , it can break - ask me how I know.

two issues: 1. is there a sunroof? clogged/disconnected drain tubes? 2. there are numerous posts about sealing the rear light assembly

If you're current axles' shafts are still intact, you can replace the CV cups and joints with inner joints from EA82 or even 90-94 Legacy rear axles. Takes some spring clip pliers and a CV banding tool. BUt it's really the on;y option. This is why I am not wheeling my EA81 wagon right now. Can't find any new axles.

And way worse for the engine too! You're engine bay is gonna be an oily nasty mess really quickly.

13089AA010

Get the dealer ones while you still can. Even at $5 that is a bargain for quality parts. GD

Sockets do go bad with time. I am guessing your cruise control may be angry too. A wheel speed sensor s not happy. Either a broken tone ring or bad sensor, A broken tone ring wont throw a code. Also those codes are not part of the OBDII system so it wont throw any code with a regular reader. Its a common fault mode.

Problem solved. Looked behind radio/glove box/under steering wheel and never found that relay. Two days ago I replaced the HVAC control panel and in the process unplugged the 4-way flasher button. Didn't remember to plug it back in and that was the problem

I added a heat shield - mounted to the cat a few years ago and haven't had a problem with the rubber boot.