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From your title, I thought "Tow" was referencing towing the car not "Toe" 😀

Same here. Past owner got the length wrong, Rock Auto got the length wrong, vendors don't care to pay attention and then I got smart and realized it was the same pump body and shaft length involved. All I had to do was pull or press the mounting face to the correct distance. I hope the spacer works out.

Thanks for the tips gents. Good idea to direct message 'pooparu' and I'll check out the Oz folks as well. I'm hitting my 20yr anniversary with my brat this fall and treating her to overdue body work and paint.

More than a couple times I’d run into a young DMV employee or such and they’d just be amazed and say things like “this isn’t right” or “I think you’re missing some numbers” , silly kids.

It has IGNITION CONTROL SYSTEM troubleshooting flow chart. Step one is check for spark with a timing light, if no light then check body side of crank angle sensor ( 4 wires off the distributor) for 12v and 2 4v wires and a ground. If you dont have that voltage its bad ECU or bad wiring, you have to pull up the ECU pin read out at that point. After that you plug the crank angle sensor and you check for a 4-5 volt Square wave coming from the crank angle sensor. What I would recommend at this point is to disconnect all injectors and fuel pump so you can just run the distributor buy hand or with a drill. Next you need to check for voltage at the 2 - pole power transistor. One side needs to have a constant 12v, the other wire is a 12v square wave coming from the ECU. This is where the service manual left me. And it didn't have specific voltages for the square waves. It didn't even tell you that there was square waves. The part they left out is that the power transistor can go bad( believe it or not). it should read out like any NPN transistor, you are going to have to look up how to test that. But you can with a multi meter with diode check. You can replace the hitachi HF83118D1 transistor with any NPN transistor that is rated for the voltage and amperage. It will take some retrofitting and testing but it will work. This has to be one of the most intense trouble shooting I have ever done. Check fuses first 😂

I don't think I have every seen a white one I have had 2 reds,light blue,world rally blue,tan,black,gray,silver and brown with full stripes. I have had 10 at once Unfortunately down to a black,brown,gray and silver . May never sell these or buy another but it's been fun 30 + years. Have piles of parts Pictures sizes exceed limit

05-09 headgaskets usually leak oil. You can drive jt indefinitely as long as you keep topping it off. It starts slowly and gets worse over a long period of time. That’s if it’s the original engine and gaskets. If the gaskets were already replaced then anything is a possibility. Subarus coolant conditioner is for coolant leaks not oil leaks. If you don’t mind adding oil and leaking I wouldn’t avoid it. It would be nice to know how much it’s leaking but as with any used car that’s probably hard to accurately nail down before purchase.

I don’t know what Subaru’s go for there, but around here, with the issues you mentioned, $2500-3000.

Look what the BRAT drug home DOHC EJ25. Free 99. Couldn't pass that up. So, throw it on an engine stand, rip the heads off and throw on a set of EJ22 heads? Who knows what about frankenmotors? Use single port EJ22 heads? Dual port? Does it matter? I'll have to do some homework but maybe that engine will make it's way into the brat 🤔 Boxerfest was in my area! Loaded the family into the Legacy wagon (rooftop carrier and all) and I hopped into the brat and we headed out! Met up with the guy I sold my old Impreza to (I really liked that car!) and he had his super rare JDM WRX out too! This is the only picture I got of my old black Impreza and his WRX The line to the entrance gate: Got to park the brat in the OFF-ROAD parking area (it seems like it was an area that was supposed to have more overland style rigs). I only saw one other BRAT there! I bought a pass to run the BRAT on the Dyno but unfortunately I ran out of time and had to leave before I could have it make any pulls. ☹️ Saw a real GRAVEL EXPRESS! I don't know if those are the wheels they came with but those are the same ones I have on my legacy! Also got to see Travis Pastrana absolutely whip the "family huckster" around the autocross track. This vehicle is absolutely bonkers. Love the active aero on this thing and that they used the old school Subaru logo on there 👍🏻

Hard to find folks like that. Send more work his way!

What’s so difficult about replacing the bearings? It helps to have a mate that’s got a press - that’s a must for this job! The rest is very much the same as any other bearing replacement. And you know what sort of quality bearing you’re replacing it with since you’re the one purchasing the bearing and installing it. The used hub method has its merits. I reckon there’s a point where you get over hunting down a used hub and collecting dead ones on the shelf. All the best with it! Cheers Bennie

1981 was the first year for the "standardized" 17 digit VIN. Have no idea if it applied to ALL foreign cars at that time.

finished the shimming, added more images https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/185922-shimming-water-pump-pulley-to-align-with-crankshaft-pulley-only-need-3-5-mm/ time will tell - but don't have time to be able put everything else back together and test drive for at least 3 weeks

Steptoe's, since my problem is not the stock water pump height I'm staring a new topic hopefully to help others with this kind of a problem (and help my patience and sanity) and will paste in your good ideas.. I've painfully learned more - but luckily not *the hard way* so far https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/185922-shimming-water-pump-pulley-to-align-with-crankshaft-pulley-only-need-3-5-mm/ Thanks Craig

neither did I - one "definitive marking" is the one closest to the engine has a "dot/punch mark" at 5.30 o'clock that you can kind of see in these fuzzy images. The rear cog is on the left, the 2nd picture is the pair flipped over showing the backside ... and the front cog his another notch /slot 180 degrees from the woodruff keyway. Gratefuly we can see both notches on mine (in my 1st image) so I must have them stacked in the correct order.. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/66578-crankshaft-timing-belt-sprockets-the-truth/page/2/#comment-543849 Here are good images of the one closest to the engine, that has a "dot/punch mark" at 5.30 o'clock https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/139522-would-you-reuse-this-crankshaft-sprocket-ea82/ I found #10 washers at Homedepot that should work with a stack of 4 or 5 on each stud, going to blue loctite the studs & nuts. Also found some 2" O.D x 1/2" i.d "fender washers" that could work if I open up the center hole to 5/8" and drill 4 holes for the studs - and I'd use 4 or 5 of the and it would be way more work and probably overkill. Thanks Craig

My '88 gl wagon keeps running no matter what happens to it... Today, I added screens to the two air intakes to block the damn rats/mice from nesting in the ductwork. I used flattened out steel gutter guards: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/building-supplies/roofs-and-gutters/gutter-guards/52856 For the passenger side front axle that has a rubber boot above the catalytic converter, I used some roofing steel flashing as a heat shield. Photos attached.

I measured (again tonight) this water pump and it is 110mm hub height, as stated @ Rock Auto. so it's not what my problem is, Also discovered tonight that the crank pulley is maybe only 2mm away from the timing belt cover so I can't move it back/closer to the crank.. So possibly the best solution would be to pull/move this hub 5mm higher/forward (then it would have 115mm hub height) for it's pulley to align with the crank pulley ... or I could use washers but I would think it might be better to fabricate a spacer disk out aluminum - or buy one - I'd think someone may have made some for all the poor guys who installed a 105mm that really needed a 110MM? and to "lighten the load" on the bearings I wish I could find a "flex fan without a clutch, and I know many guys say dump the mechanical fan but I like good simple "fall back" systems in case/when the electric one fails.. Thanks Craig

Thank You! I think I got my crankshaft timing belt sprocket(s) in backwards, WRONG - they're OK ** after lots more research it seems I must have my timing belt sprockets/cogs stacked in the correct order, so that's not causing this problem. ** https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/66578-crankshaft-timing-belt-sprockets-the-truth/page/3/#comment-552982 my cog/sprocket with the dot at 5.30 o'clock is not visible because it's the one closest to the crank i.e. they're correct. it really seemed that my crankshaft timing belt sprockets were sticking out too far - but all the other images and videos seem to look the same as mine.. Craig

Well the water pump was replaced. The bolts are not fully torqued up as I didn’t trust the threads in the block! No leaks. From that point on she was driven as needed - mainly on longer runs on the weekend or when carting stuff. I’m now in the middle of prepping for Subinats ‘24 in Sydney again. This is the ten year anniversary and my second, I’m hoping to do three in a row with the next one having the Brumby EJ powered (changed direction from the earlier discussion about the EJ conversion plans). I’ve sent my rims in for powder coating, going with the pearl white. This image is very accurate in how I saw the colours in the shop: These rims will look awesome once I get them back, the wheel nuts will look pretty average now though, I’ll have to try to buff them up for a better appearance. And I need to find my centre caps for these, I’ve got them but never run with them fitted. Tyres will be fitted with the outside edge on the inside so I’ll have the worn edges tucked under the car and the good edges easily visible to those looking at the Brumby. I finally got around to installing a UHF radio, several bits need to be sorted to complete that setup - it’s mounted on the roof, basically the same as how I mounted the unit in Ruby Scoo. And I got a basic head unit to get some tunes back into the Brumby without having to use a portable speaker. Since I was running the speaker wires I figured I’d finally install the central locking I purchased a number of years ago. It quickly got out of hand after this decision today. This is how I left it at dinner time: Got some work to do there and two weekends to get it sorted before we’re off to the event on the 14th of Sept. Also should say the grommets for the door jamb from a HQ/HJ/HX/HZ Holden for power windows and mirrors work a treat on the Brumby! I got the idea from Marty when he sourced them for the MCM Brumby build last year (this Brumby should be at Subinats as well 🤞). I also want to give the five poster a lick of paint, not a show quality finish, just something that ends up all being one colour! This is holding up the install of the UHF aerial that will be mounted on the left side of it too, so I need to get this sorted - next weekend all going well! I’d like to paint the front calipers and rear drums a bright green. If I had my game sorted, several weeks ago I would’ve grabbed a set of rear discs I’ve got at my old’s place and slapped them on the brumby - with the calipers painted. Still got the usual stuff to sort out - oil and filter changes, clean the interior out and pack for the trip. Then we cruise! Can’t but can wait. Cheers Bennie

Did you test the transistor ground in the car? They are famous for the coil bracket getting dirty, and the transistor loosing ground.

I didn't replace the filter but I had it opened up a few weeks ago, I'll check all of that. On the dx, no other codes. The misfires are randomly across all 6, but not all at once. After running it long enough they're pretty much all there though. Definitely both sides. I'm down to about 5 gallons, I want to burn up another 2 then fill. That way if it was bad gas I'm not mixing to much of the bag with good. It's currently parked at the airport until Sunday night when I get back to it to drive home.

Yeah, I think we were much the same - if a number was the 17 character length, we call them VIN's , other forms - body number (even if the had letters in them )

I got spark. It was the power transistor. I hooked up a newer transistor I had laying around and connected the wires and was able to get spark.

Here on the east coast of the USA our 1979 was still the short VIN.

Ah - never mind. I found a video explaining how to release the lock on the clip, and then a special (extra small) de-pin tool. Splicing now. Thanks!

Wonder why they never built a Brat off the '85-'94 Box generations. Probably wouldn't have as been as collectible, though.

While you are in there tighten the oil pump back plate screws and replace the o-ring.

But despite the exterior of the car being a little rough and the edges, the interior of the car is pretty damn nice. Not perfect, but nice enough that you wouldn't want to ruin it needlessly. So this padding should help a bit in the protection department.

Mostly wanted to just update anybody interested on my 83 Brat project. I just got it painted and some of the trim back on. I originally wanted a tan cream color rather than the factory "Harvest Beige" but made a last minute impulse decision to go with more of a yellow/buttermilk color. It's kind of growing on me because it catches the eye, isn't *too* flashy, and most folks think it might be a stock color. Obviously I am not restoring it to factory original, I'm going for a daily driver that will last a while. I completely and literally scrubbed the under body, hosed it down with Rust Mort, and them covered it with truck bed liner. The bottom lips on the rocker panels were pretty beat up so I welded some angle iron to strengthen them. There were a few serious rust issues on the body but I was able to deal with them and seal both sides of the metal so I think it will last a while. Oh, and it started out in life as an automatic but I put in a 4MT dual range. It just seems wrong to have an automatic Brat, and the original transmission had issues anyway. The previous owner was kind enough to rebuild the engine but the carburetor crapped out so I put on a weber. The plan is to tow it behind my RV, so if you see a buttermilk Brat rolling down the highway behind an RV it's probably me. The next thing to do is to refurbish the bumpers and other exterior plastic trim, and I'm debating just cleaning them up good and clear coating them or else actually painting them black with the super duper SEM stuff. One big thing I am missing is the tail gate trim, and I'm going to use aluminum door threshold (M-D Building products low dome 49") as a base for that. I've also dug up some part numbers that I think would be useful in one place: 791017090 - Large side trim clips. (Obtainable and fit) 791017130 - Normal bed trim clips. (Obtainable and fit) 791017200 - Corner bed trim clips. (Unobtainable, I rigged something from plastic push rivets) 759114020 - Fender liner clips. (Haven't tried them yet) 901120005 - Fender liner bolts. (Haven't tried them yet) After that I should probably do something about the interior but I'm honestly not feeling it. The interior is definitely showing it's age but if I can't restore all of the interior I'm inclined not to do any of it. Then there are some other odds and ends, like the previous owner removed the computer so (among other things) there is a currently a button for the starter on the dash. Finally, there are a few parts I would really like to get my hands on and I was hoping somebody could either guide me towards a part number or source: There are two round holes on the sides hidden by the rear bumper that need plugs. I only have one original plug. There are some rubber grommets (I guess you call them) that go around the rear bumper mount arms to mostly plug the gap. The are sort of squarish, about 2 inches across. I only have one original grommet. There are some rubber bumpers for the tailgate when it is closed. They are short thin rubber, sort of like weather stripping. I only have one of those. There is some rubber that goes on the tailgate supports where it hinges, I assume to keep them from vibrating. They come in two pieces and I need two sets. Also the rubber on the outside edges of the T-tops are a bit chewed up, so if anybody has any ideas what can be done about that I would appreciate it.

Out and about the other day Cheers Bennie

Did same on my 1st ever "drill out the broken intake bolt" on a Subaru engine. I'd replace the bolt. You have removed a good portion of it's meat so to speak.

My whole life revolves around the same irony lol. Maybe when I am older it will change to Ifixstuff, but I'm still learning new ways to break stuff. No problem! It actually hurts my redneck soul to use so many big words. I think all this california book learning is getting to me.

Bolts are elastic, every fastener has an elastic limit or its yield point. When a fastener is loaded past its yield point, some of the elasticity is permanently lost. But if not torqued to yield and the load on a fastener is released, the fastener will spring back to its original length. Our head bolts are not torque to yield, so they are not reaching the point of plastic transformation unless you are over torquing them considerably.

Repair finished, as of 4am last night. My final analysis is that this damage was the intersection of 2 events. The first was the short water pump (factory part number 21110aa026) was installed, when the longer one was needed. Somehow, I missed the visible 5mm offset on the pulleys the first time around. The second event was that when I replaced the studs with bolts, as I had seen work successfully in other threads here, I kept the torque on the bolts and lockwashers equivalent to the FSM torque for the nuts. This didn't completely engage the lockwashers, and when the pulley had additional side forces put on it by being out of position, I imagine that they walked out quickly and destroyed themselves. Solving this without replacing the water pump with the long factory unit, as a time and money issue, was a matter of installing longer studs, placing a stack of three 1.5mm thick washers on the studs beneath the new pulley, then reassembling. The annoyance was finding the correct automotive studs and trimming them to fit. I went through 3 sets of studs before I got the ones that would engage correctly. M6x1.00x30mm with the unthreaded shoulder in the center, are 1mm too short overall after being trimmed to fit the pump side, and cant fully engage the nuts. M6x1.00x40mm with the wide, offset, unthreaded shoulder look perfect after trimming to fit, but the unthreaded should sticks out above the surface of the fan clutch by .5mm, preventing nuts from clamping parts. M6x1.00x37.5mm is the answer, with a much shorter offset unthreaded shoulder. Fit is correct for WP side, and after trimming the long side to fit, they allow firm torque on both ends, and don't hit anything. You can get them from Tacoma Screw. I'll give it another couple weeks to make sure stuff holds the way it should, but I think this one is done.

Leaving the key on till the fan stops does nothing useful - you are only cooling the coolant contained in the radiator. You will not "burn up" your engine if you shut the fan off with the ignition. GD

Thank you. ]

No - there is nothing but the bolt for the crank pulley's on the NA EA82's. You didn't put enough torque on it if it came loose. GD

Well VERY interesting, I have had a few mechanics here who say that the FACTORY installed A/C has the A/C compressor between the Alternator and power steering pump. Well, that's what I thought, and mine is set up that way. BUT YET, the online parts stores (well, at least thepartsbin.com one), is saying that the "Short" water pump is for Factory installed A/C. And that is what I ordered per partsbin.com description of the part. BUT, it is the LONG water pump that fit mine. Hmmmmm..... I smell a blunder... SOOOooooooooo, I was mislead by partsbin.com. ALSO, I believe I have seen it at napa described that way too. Well, All I can say is, just take it off and compare it to the one you need. Dammit..... I believe the descpriptions are backward, it has to be... Thanks WJM