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The clutch friction material was completely off the steel disk attached to the hub. It looked like a bird nest in the bottom of the trans.

Decided to go track down one for myself. Garage that is putting the clutch in my WRX let me take theirs home for a couple days. I’m busy scanning it with my phone. It will actually come out pretty good all things considering. Used to use this app for work and manuals there. Is anyone interested in a copy? It’s about 900 or so pages long and is going to be a monster .pdf i should have it mostly done tonight

Did you miss me? My health is slowly getting better so i can type again and think clearly! nipper

The oil drain back passages are huge. Like 1.5 x 3 inch.

It's half of one of the spring washers used to separate the rocker arms. It just fatigued and broke - the other half is somewhere. Way too big to get sucked into the oil pickup so not really a problem. Just pull the valve covers, and looks like its time for some maintenance. Replace all those washers and a good time to do the lifter o-rings. GD

Great job - put it on bittorrent when you find a place to host it. That way it will be out there and once the hosting goes away it will still make the rounds. GD

If you have nothing connected to the only "plug" on the starter, that's your problem. That is the solenoid wire activated by the ignition. It needs to be plugged into the spade connector from the car's harness or nothing will happen when you turn the key. GD

I know I've mentioned it before, but..... yes you CAN resurface your own heads. And it's not even that hard. Especially with Subaru heads because they are aluminium and very small. This time I took some pictures of the end result, the rig that does the job, and some pictures durring the process that show the progression from warped/pitted to smooth and flat. First of all - the first one I finished next to an untouched unit: A good cleaning in the parts washer, some scraping of the gasket material residue, and a spritz of bra-kleen: About 30 seconds of surfaceing. You can see where the low spots and high spots are and you can see the clear (and rather deep) groove that was created by the original HG fire ring. That groove is not acceptable. It needs to be removed so the new gasket is firmly held. The more of this groove we remove - the higher the clamp force will be on the new fire ring. Clean the paper and another 1 minute or so of circular motions on the "resurfacer". You can really see how the head is "cupped" and the center is not even touching our paper yet: Another few minutes of work: And the final result: Now they match. I will be going over both of these with a finer grit paper to finish up the surface. You don't want them too smooth though as the gasket needs some imperfection to "bite" into it. Too smooth is a bad thing - about a 320 grit is the finest finish you need on a Subaru head: Here's the simple rig used for this job. Solid workbench with a laminate top that's been scraped smooth of any imperfections and checked for general level-ness and flatness. Doesn't have to be totally perfect - that's the job of the glass. I then backed the 5/16" thick glass with a 1/2" thick section of plywood - also checked for basic flatness. The paper (wet-dry 220 for initial stock removal, and 320 for finish) is glued down with contact cement (the glass is cleaned with mineral spirits between paper changes) and the lubrication is WD-40. You have to use a lot of WD-40. You MUST use it to clean the paper as well as lubricate the sanding operation - other chemicals will break down the paper and the glue. This little rig has saved me time, money and waiting on several projects. It seems that often I am assembling engines on the weekend and the machine shop isn't open. They also want money for their services and while I don't begrudge them some business from me here and there - I prefer to trade a few minutes of my time that I would otherwise have spent driving to and fro to drop them off and pick them up simply doing this job myself. It takes about 30 minutes per head with paper cleaning, paper changes, etc. GD

A member in HI had something similar. His Temp sensor on the coolant crossover was not plugged in. Recheck all connectors.

Probably your oil pressure sensor or your gauge is malfunctioning. Try replacing your sensor and see if that makes a difference.

CRXs aren't that hard to find, I would just hold out for a used replacement panel...

Thanks for the follow up.. The problem was the Air Fuel Ratio sensor. Was a $141 part. Once we replace that its been running good. Mechanic said this sensor was an 'open loop' so the car would mix fuel at a correct default level when it was cold.. when the heat got hot, up above 600 degrees, it would rely on this sensor and that's when I would see it was malfunctioning. Imagine trying to take off in 3rd gear from a red light all the time. That's what the experience was like. This sensor fixed the problem Have a good one

A word of advice. Since there is overlap with EA81 and EA82 body styles that year, when ordering or looking up parts search instead for a '87 BRAT. The running gear in the hatches and BRATS are mostly identical, and there will be no mixing up EA81 and 82 chassis, since there was no EA82 BRAT. Just my 2 bucks

That's a 4WD GL hatch. Should be an EA81 1800 engine. Could be an EA71 fat-case swapped from a STD hatch but those are exceptionally rare so it's doubtful. Probably someone stuck a 1600 badge on it and it's really an 1800. GD

common, power issue: 1. check battery 2. clean battery terminals 3. clean battery cable end clamps and make sure they're tight 4. test alternator output 5. makes sure crank pulley isn't separating - draw/paint a line across the face and see if the line is broken after driving 6. check light bulbs - particularly the ones in the rear trunk, etc.

Good evening! I’m new to the board and just wanted to say hello and introduce myself. I’m Jason and I recently purchased my second Subaru, a 2019 Impreza!

I find that the ambient temperature gage is particularly useful as the outside temperature drops to near freezing. If the gage was out by several degrees, especially if it was reading high, the driver could be lulled into a false sense of security (ice wise). If for no other reason, I would expect that Subaru would want the gage to read reasonably accurately.

Put a proper charger on the battery over night to get a full charge on it - then take the whole car in to be tested immediately. It is better to have it tested in the car than on the bench. I have had alts test fine on the bench, but prove faulty when tested in the car. Repeated battery drains WILL kill a battery much faster than "normal" usage does, so do not be surprised if the battery is shot. A bad battery will kill an alternator and a bad alternator will kill a battery. And yes, the aftermarket remans are junk for these cars. I had one for my 95 Legacy rebuilt at a local to me shop - it cost a bit more, but he used high quality parts, not the cheap stuff most remans get in them - and he guaranteed his work.

Correct, your car comes equipped with headlights from the factory. Good observation. GD

I would pay the core, grab any needed parts from your old one, put in the new one and recycle your own core at a local scrap yard and save the gas and windshield time. You can also ask them to waive the core. They do sometimes.

It's 8 years later... still need help? haha

All I have to say about this topic is if you decide to replace the sealed beam lamps with an aftermarket, non-sealed beam lamp, please do some research on night lighting before you buy! http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/tech.html

Good day & welcome to USMB. Another, err, 'heavyweight of horror' saying "good evening".