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exploded Parts diagram on Opposed Forces site... part #20 is the "basket" - called complete shaft in the parts list.. and yes, it would appear that the piece you marked in red in the picture is the backside of that part... http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_17/automatic_transmission/at_transfer_and_extension/illustration_3/ I have pointed out some of the grooves that need to be sanded out below.. on both the outer basket and the inner portion..( ALL grooves need to be removed.. not just the ones pointed at, btw) grooves will typically be worn in all the way around. If they are severe enough, it would warrant replacing the parts rather than attempting to "fix" them The clutch plates need to move freely inside the basket.. when the baskets get these grooves worn in them, the plates get stuck and do not move properly.

Get it there quick !

Torque bind. Change the fluid and ensure all 4 tires are the same diameter (size and tread wear/depth) immediately. If this is an initial onset, changing the fluid 2-3 times can alleviate it. If it needs repair there are two causes: 1. install FWD fuse - if this works then the duty solenoid is probably fine and the clutches need replaced. 2. if the FWD fuse doesn't put the car in FWD and it still binds then the Duty C solenoid is bad. usually best to replace solenoid and clutches at the same time. The transmission doesn't need to come out to repair - they're all accessible from under the vehicle by pulling the rear extension housing case off which isn't that hard. If the FWD fuse works then a work around is to install a switch that toggles between the FWD fuse and no FWD fuse so that you can have either "FWD" or " 'locked' 4WD". Then just keep it in FWD all the time unless you're offroad or in snow. I've done it before and it's a beautiful fit in some situations that don't warrant the full on repair and makes the car 100% functional for $5 in parts and very little time of some simple wiring. Or you can just embrace the high maintenance an leave the FWD fuse in all the time and pull it when 4WD is needed. But if you need it often that's going to be awfully annoying.

Hi all Just about to become an XT Turbo coupe owner for the second time after owning one in the early nineties. Back then parts were scarce and I'm guessing it hasn't got much better 30 yrs on . Wondering if there are any other XT owners on here? Car should be arriving tomorrow hopefully so it will be over the pit and given a full assessment then.

made by man keep the code readers at the ready

somewhat of a scramble to get Medicare going to avoid lapse in med coverage. Still working thru a few issues with that but mostly trying to determine how to satisfy different agencies' requirements.....wife takes a very expensive drug (she has CIDP ,psoriasis, etc.) that was mostly comped by a manufacturer's program, but now she has to switch to a different program or - it's like $800/month!!! my wife (wisely in retrospect) got her mom out of her snr apt about a week before the first shutdown and she's been here since. Our house is less handi-capable than where she was, but, we have been able to limit her exposure to potential infection quite a bit. Plus, several folks at her (and other similar facilities around here) have gotten Covid, and one died (that we know of - we get second and 3rd hand info from her acquaintances still there). She has cong. heart failure, COPD, is overweight,etc. If she got covid it would kill her. Being unemployed now actually reduces everyone's risk at our house. But she misses her cat, she has different rules/schedules living here, space is a little tight-ish, plans my wife and I had are on hold ..... but there's going to be a 'far side' to all this - we're going to make it in some form or other.

Are they both the same trans? There are 3 speeds and 4 speeds. Swapping between them would be a ton of work. The 3 speeds are dead nuts simple. All hydraulic control with just a single solenoid for 4WD. Send 12V to it for 4WD. The 4 speeds are electronic control. You have to do a ton of harness work, swap the dash etc, to get a 4 speed in a 3 speed car.

Swapped out the left front axle with a spare. No more clunking in turns! Wheel bearing was ok. Just because, I greased the pins of the left front brake, pads looked ok. Nothing obvious was loose. Axle goes back to rebuilder for another go.

To answer my own question, the switch is inside the door latch. My passenger side one got stuck in the closed position. Sprayed some WD in the mech to clean out the gunk. Started working again.

For my timing belt tension, I used a 2-pin spanner into the cam gear holes. Mine is 1 foot long. Left side you will pull from the underside outwards, right side from the top outwards. Using a luggage scale and a ratchet strap tied to a tree or other solid object you can pull at a right angle to the spanner to pull the proper tension on the cam sprockets. I didn't have a luggage scale, so I just put 17-19lb of water or rocks in a bucket over a pulley. Voilla- 19 lbs at 1 foot with no special tools. I initially did the Miles "close enough" hand tensions but I don't trust that, belt was flapping around too loose for my liking. Also, after checking my spark timing it was off, so I realized I was off 1 tooth on the crank sprocket. Because of the 1:2 ratio, it can be hard to notice that small difference. Re-check the spark timing because old stretched belts can cause it to be off compared to new belts and tensioners. Another mistake I made was to replace the 2 crank pulleys inverted which made the LH belt track too far inboard. Pushed the inner flange off the oil pump sprocket. JB weld has held so far. They're tough to tell the difference. +1 for open covers, I would have not been able to make these adjustments after the fact with them on. Timing belt is part of my normal weekly maintenance check now.

That pretty well sums it up. The point of light output on an LED is smaller than a halogen filament. If it's located correctly, this generally means you actually loose some light output. I've used a couple different brands of LEDs in the low beams on my '00 and '04 Outbacks, and I get a fantastic clean cutoff vertically, but actually loose a bit to the sides, but it's only noticeable in a back to back comparison on a wall.

Update: Pouring a spoonful of gas got it started, and it stayed started. I noticed that it is pushing out quite a bit of black smoke. The front bumper on the car parked behind the Subaru turned black with soot. This makes me think I was right about that guy adjusting the wrong screw. And this would explain why the plugs were so overcarbonated. Now to figure out how to undo what he did. (And keep looking for the fuel filter.) <Luckily, I found this in the trunk so that may help Click to See Image> The car was my wife's grandmother's - she bought it new off the lot in ~1982 - and apparently she bought that book somewhere along the way. Thanks again to everyone.

We use a pressurized tank of oil and an adapter custom made for the oil pump discharge port to fill the engine with oil at 90 psi. We put all 5 quarts in them this way. We hand crank them while they are filling. You can try cranking it with the crankshaft sensor disconnected, but unless the oil pump is packed with assembly lube it probably wont prime. You would likely be fine to just start it and observe the oil pressure light. But we don't take that risk on the high dollar engines we build. GD

I made a tool from a spare pulley, M6 bolts poke through into same holes on fitted pulley, 17 mm nut and bolt tight up on centre hole.

while cranking, feed-in some starting fluid, unlit propane or maybe brake cleaner into the intake, if it fires, you have a fueling problem. If not, likely electrical.

About only time dizzy needs readjust is if it has had adjustment to make up the tune due to slack or stretched timing belts

I've done timing belts loads of times. Never once had to re position the distributor. Line up the marks, put belts on, as described previously.

Don't buy aftermarket replacement axles, re-grease and reboot your stockers, they simply outlast anything "remanufactured."

If you're blowing bulbs with frequency, you might want to look at the headlamp plugs and see if they have thermal damage.

So I had a bad clunking going in and out of 4WD. Tracked it down to a toasted upper differential bushing. I could lift the differential by hand. Subaru part is NLA, but Superpro makes a replacement SPF3005K. Tools needed are: 17MM 21MM Milk crate to set the diff on Hack saw Somewhat of pressing the new bushing in. Some way of lifting the car I backed it up on some 6x6 to get enough room. I couldn't press the old outer because I lacked the correct die. So I ended up cutting a slice out with a hacksaw. I used a bolt and some washers to press the new one in. So I took it for a test drive, and it was so smooth going into 4WD I though it wasn't working. Push the button and let off the throttle at any speed and you can't feel a thing. Same goes for disengaging.

Replace both belts and tensioners. It might not be an old belt that “just snapped”, it could be a seized tensioner wheel that melts the cambelt and makes a huge mess. If there’s any melted rubber on the crank or cam wheels, clean this off - ALL of it! It’s not fun. Best bit about the EA82 cam belt job is you can’t stuff the engine as they’re non interference. The other option (and I have to say this partly for shits and giggles) is to EJ it. Then your L will be really fun! Cheers Bennie

So there is a mark on both cam pulleys and on the flywheel, and marks on the cover and bellhousing to line up. You install the drivers/dizzy side first. Reinstall the crank pulley. Then rotate the engine one rotation. The drivers/dizzy cam mark will be pointing down. I would recommend pulling the alt, ac compressor, battery and ac bracket. Makes getting to the water pump pulley and timing belt cover easier to get to. You won't hurt the motor turning it.

Piston slap isn't a thing on 2009's. GD

Never get into a situation where you are returning a vehicle you have bought to a used car dealer for "repair". Even if they "fix" it, they will do the absolute cheapest job possible since every dime they spend on the repair is lost profit. The worst thing you can have is a botched head gasket replacement - that's worse than just letting them leak and dealing with the smell, etc. We have seen them blow out and overheat, we have seen them strip the heads on the block, use the wrong parts, put the head bolts in the wrong holes, etc, etc. It's a bad situation to be in. Sounds like they did a crap job with crap parts. GD

Mileage isn't so much the problem as age compounded by environment. A garage kept car will be less likely to suffer the extremes of temperature, and humidity. Also where in the country the car lives, and there's a significant amount of luck involved. But the solder used and many of the components like electrolytic capacitors will eventually fail. It's only a matter of time. The ECM in my 86 Trans Am worked fine when it was parked but 11 years later when I pulled it from the back of my friends property to resurrect it the ECM would barely function at all and had to be replaced. It wouldn't pull codes, and though the engine would run it wouldn't idle most of the time and smacking the ECM housing would result in better/worse operation depending on the moon and the stars. GD