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Yes !!!! Somehow I just put a little brute force and ignorance into it. It was the drivers side that was hung up. Not sure how or what caused it but I wiggled and jiggled and after I pulled my pants back up it came loose ! LOL And right elbow says thanks as does the dog. She loves to ride sitting on that pad rubbing up against me. Thanks for the support ! Dad is doing ok , should be in the hospital another day as they check him over.

Should have had another cup of coffee. Bus crossed a double, double yellow line turning into a gas station. Said he never saw me. I'm here. Any Day you can get out of bed, have a hot coffee and shower is a Great Day. If you make it to the end of the day and have an IPA it's even better!

I once used a XT seat as a gaming chair

Oh I have several electric bicycles. Exceptionally fun things. Also not a problem to work on them as they are generally composed of generic interchangeable parts - batteries are just a stack of 18650 cells - few electronics and easily interchangeable without any VIN coding, etc. Pretty much free to do whatever you feel like on them still. Like cars and electronics used to be (and still should be). I fully acknowledge the superiority of electric motors and PWM three phase drives. Worked on them extensively in the commercial sector. I just don't at all approve of the current state of the consumer automobile industry. The focus is on profit, product obsolescence, and preventing independent repair and maintenance. They can take all that and shove it where the sun don't shine. GD

That additional air is added weight and lost fuel economy. Better to fill that tire with Helium or Hydrogen to offset the weight cost. Might as well do all of them while you're at it. GD

As I said, I've always been able to salvage the bolts, and between the Legacy/OBW and Foresters that totals more than half a dozen hitches fetched from the boneyard. So I'd go for the used one myself - more for the hardware than the sawbuck difference. I stand corrected on the bolt style - it's the Legacy/OBW that uses the carriage bolts fished into the frame. Here's the one for yours: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Subaru/Forester/2001/36311.html You can see that it uses seven (7) hex bolts screwed into the frame from below. I just confirmed it on my '01 Forester (same as '02).

Found out that certain models and years (my 2019 OB being one) came with a 14 mm drain plug that is made of soft metal that can easily be rounded over. Warned to proceed with caution and best to use a 6 point socket and not find an SAE "equivalent". Some dealers have learned to replace them at the first oil change but apparently not mine? The car is with daughter in Maine and I'm heading there next week with both 14 and 17 mm 6 point sockets in hand. Hold my ankles, I'm going in!

All of the Subarus I had or have are from '95 to '02, including an '02 Forester, and they're all as I described. Download the installation instructions for a Curt, Hidden Hitch, Drawtite, etc., for your model/year and they'll show you where the plugs/holes are.

Hi all My first Subie was a rust bucket 05 legacy from New Hampshire. Glad I switched to 3rd gen a couple years ago! Got it at 194k miles from a Garrett who drove it as a bakery delivery car in Port Townsend, WA. Before that it belonged to a tractor mechanic in Oregon. He named it Dixie and that has stuck so far; I was driving through Malheur National Forest in eastern Oregon when I hit 200k miles, and lo and behold, two bends down the road, I passed ‘Dixie Campground.’ That pretty much set it in stone. Dixie sat for 8 months after I bought it, since I was overseas. Started right up after a battery charge and a few tries! Since then I’ve started working on it. This is my only car and the first I’ve worked on, so you can expect a careful approach from me. specs manufactured 06/1989 1990 Loyale S.W., S/R 5MT, SOHC SPFI 1.8 L EA82, all stock. 185 tires on stock 13” wheels Ruby Pearl red Panasonic a/c drive belt configuration but with no idler pulley Came with a wealth of printed information and a bunch of parts, from the previous previous owner. Apart from the resources available here and elsewhere online, the are some technician‘s reference booklets and ‚insider tips‘ about many of the common EA82 issues such as lifter tick. Push-Button awd routed to a dash switch b/c the button is missing Seeps oil from left, right, front, and back Called the mechanic on the timing belt change sticker, apparently the last owner didn’t have enough cabbage for more than just the belts (20k miles ago). The covers are seeping oil now and TOD, the HLA demon, showed up a couple months ago, so I want to get those covers off ASAP to inspect/replace pumps, pulleys, seals, belts, tensioners, etc. I‘m preparing for the job atm. I switched to 15w40 but still get loud ticking while warming the engine up. The head or valve cover gaskets (excuse my ignorance) and oil pump are all pretty leaky, so no surprise. Blew a strut in the snow, so my passenger rear twerks over bumps. I‘m collecting parts for the suspension improvements suggested by 2.7 turbo loyale (thanks for all you do). so far I’ve replaced the: alternator and drive belts headlight bulbs battery spark plugs transaxle gear oil (extra s + 0.5 qt rislone engine treatment) oil (15w40 due to lifter tick) oil and air filters tires (185s) I like this car a lot. The more I do for it, the more it teaches me. Hoping to connect with a couple local folks eventually. Thanks for maintaining such a great community. cheers from Olympia, jon (it‘s pronounced ‘yone,’ it’s German)

About axles. I made custom arms with +20 mm length.

Last time I tried to post a FB link it asked you to sign in. It’s just two screws per side. I had thought for sure that there was also a clip or two but according to the drawing and parts list it’s just two screws. FB is not for me but I use it to my advantage and stay the F away from the majority of that BS. Attention seekers galore. Pity seekers too, and more unhealthy comments from the crumbs of society. Sorry but that’s my opinion. If you dare to join FB it’s there in the USMB group. https://m.facebook.com/groups/UltimateSubaruMessageBoard/permalink/4492587204137074/?m_entstream_source=group&ref=bookmarks

hugs for Dad from me too. I am also an Orphan, of sorts.. lost Mom in 2012 - never really knew dad, so no idea if he is still around or not. Life is short.. tell those you love that you love them every chance you get! (and that includes the furbabies!)

That will be this weekend, make sure to share a photo so we can see what happened.

Right on ! So my dad (nearly 93) had issues today and I had to take him to the hospital and never got myself looked at. As mentioned , live for another day !

Good PT and yoga have helped me! 2014 head on motorcycle to school bus accident, at 60 mph made me a slow moving vehicle. But hey, I have all body parts and still get around.

Smart. I don't know. I do almost exclusively Subaru but I have done a couple other manufacturers head jobs. There's two heads and they're horizontal so they're not easy/veritically mounted right on top like some and there's twice as many as a vehicle with one head. But there are no special tools required and nothing is tricky like some vehicles have impossible to access bolt/cranks due to cramming those transverse mounted engines against strut towers. So it depends what you're comparing it too. Most people pull the engine, it's tricky to do in the engine compartment but can be done if you unbolt the motor mounts (2 14mm nuts - easy) and jack up each side as you're working on it to tilt it so the head is somewhat "up". Lift drivers side, work on it, lift passengers side and work on it. It's certainly nice to not pull the engine for some people. Use Subaru gasket, resurface the heads, clean and lubricate and probably torque the head bolts. Install a Subaru timing belt ($70) and lower cogged idler ($30) from Subaru, check the timing tensioner for oil around the seal (if it's wet replace the tensioner) (or just get a complete timing kit with all new pulleys and tensioner). New valve covers are smart while it's apart. Then you're good for another 100k with minimal maintenance. Then add a bottle of Subaru's coolant conditioner - they "require" it. Although I don't think GD even uses it when he does a HG job. Overflows are old and dirty I don't like to assume to much from them. A rubber seal on a radiator cap can degrade and get flakey and end up with black particulate matter in the overflow...etc. That's a horrible suggestion. These engines usually don't respond well and can still overheat without a thermostat. Also the coolant flow often gets disturbed and you loose cabin heat anyway when they start overheating because it's not cycling through properly - basically the same thing that makes the thermostat trick not work also makes the cabin heat not work. Also I've pulled heads that were driven for a couple months with bad headgaskets like that and they will wear the metal on the head down like water wears down rocks. You'll have a smooth, valley of warn metal where the head gasket breech is if you drive it long enough like that. Right by the combustion chamber will be wide and it'll chamfer down to a rounded point. Avoiding additives and blue devil is a good idea. The Subaru Coolant Conditioner works 100% of the time on initial overheats of factory installed gaskets....but this isn't an initial overheat and I didn't want to mention it unless we confirmed an external coolant leak - that's the only condition for which this will work. If it's leaking internally it's a waste of time, effort, and coolant.

The holes in the frame rails aren't obvious until you get underneath and see how the hitch installs. I have a Curt hitch receiver and I just swapped it from my 95 wagon to my 2003 Wagon. It used one different hole on the hitch for the drivers side tie-down loop, some extra washers to space it out and that was all. Bolted right up with the 4 bolts. Sometimes those plugs on the frame are so covered in dirt they aren't noticeable. I got my hitch from etrailer dot com. They even have good installation instructions on their sight.

NOPE ..... I have 160K on MY14 Impreza .... same setup on 2.0L ... never had a problem. Others say they hold the gas to the floor on first start to allow engine to crank without starting to prime the filter, but being a retired mechanic, we never did that and I have never seen a problem. With a Fumoto valve, oil changes on the FB engines are about 10 minutes ,,,,, slide pan under and open valve ... while oil drains, replace the filter ..... close, wipe valve and remove pan .... fill with oil .... Takes me longer to put the old oil into container and drive to local auto store for disposal .... Good luck with the 19OB

Plenty of sad moments to owning a vintage car that you also want to operate often. Tires are going to be harder to acquire. Parts - very hard. Shops won’t work in it. All that said guys like us still want to enjoy having the ride and feel our strong appreciation will drive us somehow to be able to show the world that YES we can own and drive a vintage Subaru! Just think about getting stuck in bad traffic , or a situation where the cars are traveling fast. And you’re the guy in the car that can’t get out of its own way let alone theirs. People aren’t always kind to older cars like you may think. At shows or on occasions yes. But as driver , not really. Just saying it had better be able to function 100% Tough call at your age. It’s great to see such enthusiasm from you. I wish you luck. Soon enough you’ll be able to make your own calls. Maybe hop on an XT group and keep track of issues , prices , and availability. The XT is unique, and fun. And rare now. You knew that. Lol Enjoy !

Reuse head bolts. Get the 770 gaskets from Subaru. Don't buy cheap junk gaskets. Not worth your time. Hood sticker will state CA compliance. GD

If it still runs, get it up to normal operating temperature. Them go after the fitting, and the intake manifold bolts.

Iceland - really cheap electricity. HUMVEE's have good visibility compared to MRAP's. More armor means smaller windows and lots of cameras. But as far as electric vehicles go - I'll never own or work on them - or probably anything made after 2004. Complexity is the enemy of reliability. Add to that the lack of right to repair and the intellectual property concerns of modern manufacturing, plus the need for corporations like Subaru to show ever-increasing profits and sales by throwing away old vehicles for essentially no reason other than they can't be fixed due to lack of replacement parts, or lack of information to economically repair them..... all in the name of profit. The "environment" would be better served by Reducing and Reusing (the two R's most people forget about) than by creating more plastic things that in reality can't be Recycled anyway. GD

These aftermarkets are about as light as they get - I don't do any heavy towing either - sailboats that are usually no more than 500 lb. total weight. No such thing as a bumper hitch here - there's simply no load bearing structure in there to attach to.

If the cap is on tight, then get new Subaru gas cap. Subarupartsforyou.com is located at Dan Perkins dealership in Milford. Order on line, wait for confirmation and then pickup at counter with no shipping cost and online pricing. use code reader/eraser like THIS erase codes then do the sequence for setting system readiness. It's posted here somewhere. I think here in CT we can get away with one "not ready" and still pass. I had the P0420 through 4 emissions inspections by clearing the code, doing the dance and then straight to testing site.

yeah, selling that car should be for PARTS ONLY - it is not roadworthy any more. and here in WI at least, the way to enforce that "parts only" thing is to write "JUNK" in big letters across the front of the title. just because you can drive it, does not mean you should.