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There is no center diff. It is just 2wd or 4wd not AWD.

Welp I feel like an idiot haha, but for any future readers I'll share what the problem was: I went to pinch off the front lines per crazyeights recommendation to narrow down between MC and front calipers and noticed the inner pads were sitting at a slight angle relative to the disc, on closer inspection I hadn't fully seated them in the notches, so the pad was sitting on the caliper brackets on the top side meaning the piston was flexing the pad when the brakes were pressed. Pulling the handbrake would pre-flex the pads thereby stiffening up my brakes. Pads took a slight curve from all this flexing so I replaced and everything's good now. Thanks everyone for the help.

probably a U joint in the driveline. Not the rear diff. FWIW, the diff is bolt in. Uses same internal stub connection. Began here in 95 models.

Did you use your voodoo can? I've got a Chinese tea can - I threw a bunch of dead (computer) chips, bolts, and chicken bones in and glued the lid on. If a problem is sufficiently baffling I shake the voodoo can over it and it's sometimes mysteriously solved without further frustration. I trust that's what you did.

Just got a working cyclops 3rd eye setup for my 83 Brat GL. Have the original switch, but missing the original relay pcb. Also don't have the original 82 grille that matches the cyclops. Purchased a set of 87a relays and have read posts here how to wire these up using the original switch. Can someone please reply with a working, known to be good spec for getting this setup working? Also would be very interested in purchasing an original cyclops front grille. Thanks!

Yeah we used to use the 22E heads, but we don't anymore. The 25D heads are superior in every way. The 25D head is a turbo cylinder head easily capable of 500 HP in stock form. GD

Thanks so much. That will be quite helpful. I can correct others the next time I play croquet, which is likely never. I'll be sure not to be so specific about implements going forward. For other contributors, here's the latest: I pulled the alternator and it's an aftermarket part without any identifying label or number, and a different looking housing from the OEM Mitsubishi (A2TB2891ZC). Based on that, I won't pursue a rebuild. I found a used and tested OEM Mitsubishi alternator nearby with a six month warranty, for cheap. Should it fail at some point in the future, it will be worth rebuilding. If the trouble arises again in short order, at least I'll not have invested much and will have a factory correct alternator.

change the oil separator plate from plastic to metal while you are in there too.

2002-03 EJ25 would be a 251 or 253, not a 25D And no you cannot use Cams from an early (90-98) EJ22e heads in the newer 99+ SOHC heads. Totally physycally different heads. 99+ sohc heads are bigger, more complicated (CAM case with like 27 bolts to disassemble, 3 different types of bolts and 2 of them love to break/strip.) I charge an extra 2 hours labor on 99+ Sohc head gasket jobs vs. an EJ22e. I would use the 97 22e heads. They are smaller, simpler, lighter, and easier to fit into the engine of older subarus. on a 2.5 block it will likely make over 150 hp which is PLENTY in an old EA body. Plus the big point of the "frankenmotor" combo is the high compression from tiny heads on big cyls. Improves the low end grunt of the engine. 25D heads are big and heavy, hard to adjust valve clearances (shim on bucket). And then it also wouldn't be a "Frankenmotor" so you don't get the compression bump that helps the low end. Unless the goal is %100 maximum top end HP, you don't need them. If you put 251 or 253 heads on it, you just basically made a 251/3 so not really a "frankenmotor" and you'd be better off to just get a whole 2000+ engine.....although those won't run easily off the 97 harness.

Yes , you’ll want to not bother with the air system and swap over to regular stock assemblies. Junkyard , parts car donor , whatever you can find. Maybe buy some new KYB’s to replace struts , or go cheap since I personally wasted my money on KYB’s since my son ended up killing the car and I couldn’t get my KYB’s back before the car go crushed. Be sure to get good top mounts. Not Chinese crap. Even keeping the originals are better than new Chinese’s garbage - take my word ! We swapped out our 94 Legacy wagon air for standard and all is great now. Good luck with it and the kid. Cheers!

Welcome to the USMB, Aembuff. The general feeling here is to pull the airbag system and replace with standard struts & springs--preferably KYBs and preferably from a Pull n' Pay! I'm no expert on suspension but I'm sure folks with experience will chime in with help. By the way, good choice for a teen's first car.

The cranks and rods are not the same. They are the largest major differences between. Though the blocks are different too. Early DOHC 2.5 blocks have Small 48mm rod journals, and a #3 thrust bearing location. The water jackets extend all the way down the walls of the entire cylinders. This leaves the cylinders left very tall and open all around, leading to resonance at the top and contributing to the head gasket failure rates. The small rod journals are known to fail often too. I'm not a fan of these blocks, although they do make GREAT power and rev QUICK (small journals, less crank mass) SOHC 2.5 blocks use larger 52mm rod journals (like all the rest of the EJs) and move the thrust to #5. The water jackets at the top side of the block around the base of the cylinders is decreased. This allows faster coolant flow, less stagnant pockets under the crossover. It also gives more meat at the base of the cylinder to prevent resonance. These blocks had pistons that come right to zero at the block deck, later ones with AVLS, the pistons actually come way out of the block. The 99's were a combo. They are basically the old DOHC 2.5 pistons stuck into the new 2.5 block. 52mm journals, #5 thrust, sturdy cylinders. There were some changes in Oil pump rotor thickness too, though I am not clear on which are in what.....but they are all interchangeable, so find a 10mm pump if you don't have one.

mismatched tires or using 4wd on the wrong terrain (or both) 4wd is only for use in slippery or loose traction. And do not try to turn tightly in 4wd even in hard pack and gravel, use 3 point or 5 point to turn around. Disengage 4wd BEFORE you exit slippery terrain. Rolling very slow in straight line. BEFORE you get to any pavement or hard pack. sometimes it is needed to roll back and forth but always in straight line and still while on the loose surface, be it dirt, mud, snow, sand ect.

85 dual range with ej22 swap

Not in the condition of a bad starter and you want a push start.

Delivery today! Super super cheap coilover suspension finally showed up! And when I mean cheap I mean cheap! I snagged the whole set for $180 shipped to my door! Honestly I won’t drive this car enough to be afraid of it failing if it even does, I’ve got more than enough to choose from so going cheap for this one scares me no bit! Besides that I went a different route than “Suberdave” he used 4th Gen legacy suspension and re drilled and welded the top hats. I chose the 3rd gen legacy suspension as the top hats are almost identically sized to older gen strut setups. Granted I have to open the holes a little and the camber adjustment I’m never goin to use is pointing the wrong way.... but hey. No welding lol. The rear suspension is the same as the 4th Gen legacy so mods will be similar to his to make them work!

Here's 2 ways to do it. No need for some fancy relay. Simple, "anytime" setup. Makes it so light can be operated at any time, regardless of Ig. or Lights. 02061502_zpscsqtiizo by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's a bit more complicated. This setup would be only operational with Ig. key on. The SPDT switch allows the lamp to be set to be open and on whenever lo beams are on, or to be on constantly whenever at least the marker lights are on. 02061503_zpskfpseh4g by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Inspect for leaks. Look carefully under the engine. Oil loss - external visible leaks or install a Subaru PCV or it’s blowing past the rings Factory installed 03s usually leak coolant externally. They start leaking very slowly at first underneath and progress slowly over a long time. You can drive them a long time (I’ve seen 100k+) by simply topping off fluids. Already replaced head gaskets (not at all unlikely) are less forgiving and have more varied failure modes. If it’s an external leak the Subaru coolant conditioner works almost 100% of the time on initial external coolant leaks of original factory head gaskets If original that belt is insanely overdue by age and miles. Install AISIN or Subaru timing kit - belt and all pulleys and tensioner and water pump. At a minimum at least replace the belt and lower toothed idler, the most common timing failure points.

The motor contains the door park switch, IIRC, so once you get it wired in properly, the motor will tell the relay when to break the circuit, stopping the door.

Mine is missing an eye. But I still love it.

Just an update for the viewing audience. I will not be a Subaru owner after all. I didn't really find any other Subarus in the area in my price range that didn't look like they had just been abused their entire lives or had well over 200,000 miles on them. I did give a guy a deposit over the weekend for a 2007 Honda Civic EX 5 speed. 176,000 on the car and 98,000 on the engine with a new clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, upper and lower radiator hose, coolant flush, water pump and a few other parts and gaskets. The car runs and drives great. It has about 75% left on the tires. It appears to be something I can bring home and start driving to work right away without worrying about much until it's time for an oil change. Thanks again for all the advice, it was very helpful. Maybe I'll look for a Subaru again down the road when I have used up the Honda.

Installed a 97 Hatch on my 2000 today. Worked great, all the electrical plugs joined right up. I found the rear wiper hose cracked on my 2000 and the 97 about 2" from the body to hatch connection. Easy fix with the extra tube. I do have a door Light. I'll have to look to see if the wiring changed. Have a good one! Subaru, plug and play, for the most part. Sweet!

Oh yeah, that camber and axle angles look just fine. Nothing to be improved on there. Oh except for terrible positive camber, and 30+ degree angles on those axles. They are bottomed against the edge of the cup! FWIW, the problem breaking axles is on uptravel, when the wheel has lots of weight and traction. At droop like shown, there is not really any traction to transfer power so that's not where the breaky breaky happens. And the axle shafts hang "ungaurded" just asking to be backed into rocks on rough terrain. Been there, done that. Thanks for posting pics that so beautifully illustrate all the problematic stuff that happens with long travel EA81 set-ups. I see too that your lift blocks use all right angles, with no diagonal bracing, and especially doesn't look like your torsion tube is cross braced. You will have issues with that soon enough,. If you don't your not wheeling like I wheel my car. MY EA81 is not my DD. And I didn't build it to look cool. I built it to wheel. Been doin so for years now. I know that of which I speak. As for the shock mounts.......I've got that covered......continue watching the progress of this thread and you will see. I have previously reinforced those mount points, tie them into the body rail below and above. I've got Long travel Bilsteins punched 3" up into the trunk. mounts are brace in a triangulated pattern, and tied together with a crossbar in the trunk that serves as a hi-lift jack mount Believe me, the mounting area is strong enough and built for a long travel already. I would ask that if you want to further talk about EA81 rear suspension and how YOU think it should be setup......Please start a thread. Your car is an awesome build. And for fun, most of the time, the EA81 set-up you've got is great.....your's is about as good as it can get......but that's the point.....it's as good as it can be, and I am ready for better..... I'm sure the OP would appreciate keeping this one focused on his Outback projects. One or 2 post with a comparative point is fine, but we are getting now into thread jack territory. I only posted in here becasue I am modifying the same type of set up as him.