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I replaced the fuel pump, inlet screen, and filter and that appears to have been what the problem was. Thanks very much, everybody. Happy Trails!

yep cam and crank sprockets were different swapped them over and it fired right up.

If it ends up being the fuel pump, might as well do a fresh fuel filter while you are at it. If it still doesn't start with a shot of starting fluid, verify the coil is still good. @280k anything can fail. If it threw a code, it might be a garbage code from the stalling/dying, so verify the fuel/spark first before trying to dive into areas that might actually be OK.

Have you looked into a weak fuel pump, blocked fuel filter or pickup in the tank? The constant flashes of the ECU is the unit designation. It'll tell you which market it's been designed for. Eg USDM/JDM/AUDM etc. So your ECU does not have any stored codes which is a good thing. The only other thing I can think of is a dodgy O2 sensor that's not yet throwing a code but is upsetting things. Cheers Bennie

MANY THANKS! Seriously, I really appreciate the guidance. It was not easy or fun, but now I’m done. Used a dremel to cut notches into the plate (no room for anything else!). Chisled and chiseled. On the third rotation, the captive nut became “uncaptive” as in no longer welded to the frame. So I drilled a pilot hole to ensure the right spot to drill on the inside, then drilled a 1” access hole through the floor. Used an old broken long drill bit through the pilot hole of the plate and frame to lock the plate in place while undoing the nut with the impact wrench. The access hole, although annoying, validates using the $9 aftermarket bump stop/helper with a nylon lock nut versus the $60 OEM part. In reality, once I finish the moderate restoration, this will be a garage kept, good season, nice weather, weekend only car that won’t get more than a total of 1,000 miles during the next 60 or so years of my life... I’m 48 now, so yes, I’m definitely an optomist.

Just from reading old posts about this my guess is you have to swap the camshaft sprocket and/or that crankshaft sprocket/sensor. More knowledgeable members will pinpoint the problem/solution.

It's a 2018 take it to the dealer for warranty fix

Move or Send your Subaru's to me in Colorado.

Yes , change the pump pickup filter with the pump.and change the engine side fuel filter ,just because its a good idea. Beware of buying the high dollar Bosh OE replacement pump... its poorly designed and will not fit your stock bracket.

Ah yes - with the updated gasket (the 770 is also used in the 2.5 single cam belt motor's but not till 11-13 Legacy models) it should never have that problem again. I've never had a repeat failure. GD

In the ea82 cars per the service manual both the 3at and the 4eat used behind turbo engines had 3.454 front diffs. All others used 3.70 or 3.90 diffs. I made the mistake of using a turbo 3at in a nonturbo car and it almost killed me when I put it in 4wd on the snow.

EA81 will not bolt up to the transmission, and will hit the steering shaft unless you use the cradle from an 81 Brat GL. If you use the 86 4 speed then you may be able to modify the cradle or something to fit them with the stock steering setup. I've never tried it. GD

Yep. Mike's got it. The 642 gasket is from the '04 to '07 EJ255/257 and the 770 is from the 8+ EJ257 GD

Back to the EA82T for a couple of reasons.... 1. Club rego with original engine 2. I wanted to do something different, I have a few things to try on the old EA. 3. I'll probably crash or loose my license with an EJ20 Im running my EA82T on the EJ20G loom via a EJ20G plug in Wolf3d (which I'll configure to run an EA82T) so if I ever need to go back to an EJ, I just pull the engine and drop in another EJ20G and plug in a standard WRX ecu and drive it

Throw the carb in the dumpster. You need a Weber 32/36 DGV, adaptor plate, and short filter. Have the distributor rebuilt with new bushings and a new vacuum advance. Rip off all the vacuum plumbing - you only need two vac lines. Distributor Advance and EGR. GD

There is a 10 amp fuse in the engine bay that controls the dome light and door switches. Probably blown. Check again for codes. O.

86 Gl wagon 2.2 4" lift 235/75/15 BFG Lincoln locker Repositioned radiator Onboard air

Guys, miracles do happen! A lady that lives down the road from my parents has a broken down DL with quads, and she is letting me buy them! Along with the fenders (95% rust free) and all the A.C. components for $100. The only catch is that I have to attach my old fenders and headlights to her wagon so that it doesn't look like a junk car sitting in her yard.

Just put an ally radiator in my 91 brumby.

Just pulled my engine out of my loyale, pretty proud my very first engine pull

link to GD's write up is broken or missing Bennie

Just picked up this 1982 GLF Hardtop the other day. Very little rust, but needs some serious interior work, which I happen to have a bunch of parts for from an old Brat. It pays to hoard I guess.

My 86 GL is nearing 200,000 miles 10,000+ miles on the ej22 swap, mostly trouble free :-) She has never let me down

Little update Painted the intake and valve covers with a little inspiration from sti Wrinkle Red Intake by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr Wrinkle Red Valve Covers by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr Finally finished painting the pugs as well, color is oil rubbed bronze but it looks more of a gunmetal grey in person Bronze Pugs by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr The engine is ready to be reassembled as soon as my bearings, pistons, and gasket set arrive. I've been working on rebuilding the carburetors and am almost completely done with one but have yet to dig into the other one in case I need to use it as a reference.

Terry, Welcome to the USMB! That's quite a testament for the forester. Glad to hear you were alright.