Leaderboard

Yes I was going to get a diff to swap in to see if it made any difference...except the only one in the wreckers yard was a 3.9 ratio! Ended up taking the gearbox home with me as well. Both will be professionally rebuilt then go into the wagon. Been a while since I updated this thread because I haven't done anything on it until now...the weekend before I'm due to go away on a 4WD trip next long weekend which I took an extra day off work for and everything. I've been driving the car with the rear axles removed for ages cos I got sick of the vibe and was at a dead end re fixing it. Well last weekend I had to replace the rear wheel bearings (not enough grease in them, they were howling) and decided to put the axles back in while I was there. Tried to get it up to highway speed that same day but couldn't because of heavy traffic. I got it up to highway speed about mid day yesterday and well...I thought the car was going to rattle to pieces. The vibe was worse than ever, so bad I couldn't see anything in the mirrors because they were shaking so much, high frequency vibration. So, I kinda freaked out because there was a 8+ hour road trip only a few days away... Ended up going back to the yard I got the g/box + diff from and taking the 2 piece tailshaft from that L series as well. Had to cut through a 10mm bolt with a hacksaw blade to get it out since the center bearing mount had spun the captive nut. And so my weekend went, yesterday and today frantically creating a center bearing mount for the 2-piece using what I had laying around. Was grinding till about 7:30 last night and I was back into it 7:30 this morning, got to test drive it about 6PM tonight (have to get to work tomorrow too, no stress!) well and truly tired and fed up. If it didn't work I probably would have cried. Instead I almost cried tears of joy because...the vibration is gone! Completely! 100% fixed. Couldn't quite believe it myself, have been fighting this issue for so long, 18 months probably. Amazing what a deadline will do in regards to motivation! Ended up going the crossmember style mount. It was made from 2" square by 1/8" wall tube and some 3/16" flat bar reinforcing. It's many times stronger than the floor it's bolted to. Not really happy with the strength of the floor. When I've got more time I'll make up a strap out of flat bar that hugs the tunnel on the interior and join the two mounting nuts together. At the moment I welded the nuts to some large square bits of 3/16" plate to spread the load a bit.

Originally put this together for a friend, then realized it might be helpful to others wanting to do an STI swap. Basically everything you'd need to upgrade the drivetrain. Prices are roughly what I've paid in the last few months in US dollars. Yes you can use an automatic driveshaft and swap the flange from R160 to R180 but the STI driveshaft has significantly bigger u joints. If you find the right swap kit you can probably get a cheaper total price but I already had the trans. That's what I did in my black Outback, for instance just used the stock clutch and flywheel and only replaced the disc and release bearing. Can also buy a lot of these things from the dealer but they're more expensive. Conversely some of it you can buy on rockauto etc for close to used prices but I'd rather have factory parts for most of this. $2500 trans used 2006+ to fit our planetary low range $200 driveshaft used - get one same wheelbase as the car you're putting it in, 2007 STI seems to fit first gen Impreza perfect, got a newer one that fit my Legacy Outback. $715 diff used 2006+ $150 shifter used -2013? at some point they made the shifter longer I've been told $150 flywheel used but resurfaced $10 flywheel bolts (800610740) $8 flywheel pilot bearing (816212020) $12 flywheel dust cover (30216AA070) IMO required for off pavement use $6 pressure plate bolts (800508310) $450 clutch/pressure plate/release bearing Exedy FJK1000 from Rock Auto, looks like rallysportdirect is cheaper but not in stock $92 ACT monoloc from IAG - definitely optional $70 clutch slave used $10 clutch line 37250FE052 $23 clutch hose 37251FE030 $2 clutch hose banjo bolt 112925161 $2 clutch hose crush washers 114130151 $104 Trans mount 6MT 41022FE010 $75 starter used Probably not required but in order to run female front axles you need: $96 front axle stubs 4EAT 38415AA070 $5 front axle stub seals RF806730031 $5 front axle stub seals LF806730032 $2 snaprings for front axle stubs 805329010 Also since my car is an auto I needed: $35 clutch master used $75 STI pedals used (I think any Subaru manual trans pedals would work, looks like even Forester pedals would bolt in) Finally, you need one of the following: STI CV axles (rear at least), knuckles/hubs, brakes - can't fit 15s and are a larger wheel bolt pattern Slammo says "04 STi rear knuckles let you stay 5x100 and use stock 04 STi rear axles with an R180, and you can fit the WRX 2-pot calipers without adapters, but you have to use special rotors since the STi parking brake drum is a bigger diameter" but those 04 STI rear knuckles are rare. Suberdave's conversion races - maybe these would work OK on a lighter car if driven carefully but then what's the point? Definitely the cheapest route but at least moves the weak link to the axle which can be replaced in the field in a reasonable amount of time. Billet rear knuckles and R180 to front CV axle stubs - probably cheaper than STI knuckles, hubs, and brakes, and I think the best solution for reasons already discussed.

If it’s green like that pic do no throw it away. It’s gold - 100x more reliable than any brand you can buy from stores new. Regrease and reboot and they’ll last the life of the vehicle usually. Aftermarkets fail in multiple ways and are true garbage. They’re made so poorly because laziness and shop time wins over replacing the boot.

He’s been here and may still be active. I haven’t checked. But over on the dreaded FB our man Chris reports the car is his and will be living life in the upper right corner of the USA. Another New England Classic Subaru. Thanks for posting. I altered Chris and he’s made the deal full circle so you accomplished your goal of finding the right home for it. This past year I was also the recipient of a vintage Subaru posted by a fellow Subathusiast Cheers !

I have bought a fuel pressure test gage and hope it arives soon, will post an update after the test.

Yes, will need to talk with a certifier re getting the rails cut. Diff output is 25 spline on the box I have - it's a legacy one. Might see if I can get an Impreza one though (or just split it and chuck in an LSD and 23 spline shafts). From the Legacy service manual I have, they did actually do a disc brake rear end with the 2wd model. Might have to try track a setup down... I think I'll probably just throw my spare clutch in, replace the wheel bearings, and call it a day for now.

My apologies, I was thinking of GL/DL which uses 2 sets of contacts to supply power to the TBI ECM. My GL behaved the same way as his XT - start, rise to 2000 + rpm, then die. Would not idle. Looked over the Haynes manual electrical schematic for 86 MPFI: The green fusible link powers a single contact ignition relay to ECM on MPFI(wht/red wire). Fuse 11 powers the fuel pump relay(blk/wht wire). Green fusible link powers fuel pump and Aux air valve(blu wire).

All EAs were 5-bolt with the bolt in (hollow) stub axles. I don't completely know the pattern, but they were definitely used simultaneously from the '90s until at least 2015 or so. I think in base model/small engine optioned cars.

To keep the off-road 4WD theme consistent, I always thought the side of my wagon should display an OEM looking "4WD" logo that matched the ones on the tail gate and the mud flaps. It's been raining here so I spent some time indoors on my cheap eBay laser cutter and came up with this graphic for the left and right rear doors. I also made one to go over the rear logo as it was very sun bleached. It's not perfect but neither am I.

Haven't accomplished a lot in the last couple weeks, been sick and busy with other things. Still need to get the throttle body sorted at a minimum before we put the engine in. Will hopefully have engine mounts this week. Biggest thing we accomplished was swapping in the R180. Left to right, "one bolt" (earlier) R160, "five bolt" (later) R160, R180. Some studs and plugs swapped over. Definitely one good reason Subaru has a Lego reputation. After swapping over those studs the R180 bolts right in. Weights are 37# (1 bolt R160), 47# (5 bolt R160), 57# R180. 5 bolt R160 is definitely a 4.11 open diff, I assume the 1 bolt is open also but probably 3.7 or 3.9. I was shocked how much weight difference there was between the R160s. Had to trim one of the little diff mount brackets so it would sit flush on the R180. While we had this out I cut the tuned mass damper (?) off. Surprisingly only weighs 1#, seems heavier. Thinking by adding 20# of rear diff we've ruined whatever NVH tuning that was supposed to accomplish. STI driveshaft appears it will just bolt in. Looks to be a little on the short side, anyone know if the splined part towards the rear is supposed to telescope? There's definitely splines under the rubber cover but we couldn't get it to budge. Looks like we need to make the rear lateral links a little longer than what we'd mocked up for the R160 but I think then they'd work with either diff. Still need to machine the RR billet knuckle, started programming that the other day. B and I also worked on putting a planetary low range in my other STI 6MT. He swapped over the various reverse lockout parts, etc. Unfortunately the rear output shaft has about .008" (.2mm) endplay so I need to get a thicker shim and swap that out.

Good Day, I'm in Colorado Springs, Colorado. I'm retired Military (USN), retired Aircraft Maintenance Training Instructor. I have lots of house construction experience, from the foundation to the roof. Lots of Subaru swaps and maintenance done. 15_ 2.5 DOHC to 2.2 swaps done. This last year, I helped a friend and relative build two garages in Wisconsin. Hot shower and hot coffee in the AM and a cold beer in the evening is about all I need. If you have an interesting location and need some help, let me know. I have flight benefits so I can fly on the cheap most anywhere in the world as long as there is an open seat. Hawaii, EU, Canada.... I love to travel. Larry

Quick update, the lights work! The original battery cables were junk, and had tiny terminals on them that won't fit a modern battery. I parted out a '90 Loyale last fall, so I grabbed the cables from that car. They fit excellent, and are a big upgrade from the stock setup. The lights all just worked, I didn't have to do any wiring diagnostics at all. More soon.

Monstaru is the guy you want to talk to, I know he personally has put escort dizzys on ej22. Not sure if he still hangs around here Here’s a thread from a decade ago, not sure why or how this is what my brain remembers.

No. He is saying that the large metal cylindrical part to the inside of the axle is usually a medium green color if it is OEM. See image for green color reference.

Yes. You need a new boot or axle. If by luck the inner joint is green that’s OEM, replace the boot and keep that quality axle. All aftermarket Subaru axle brands are terrible.

OK, I didn't see those lower "gussets" at first but I like the idea. Should be plenty of room there since I'm not running a turbo. I really want to minimize the welding on this body as I think that's going to make it rust faster but will definitely take a look at mine and see what we can do. Also reminds me it might be a good idea to do a strut tower brace that attaches to the pitch stop mount. But maybe that's why the wiper arm on my black Outback keeps scraping the windshield when we beat on it?

Made a jig and more sano mockup trailing arm. Just used a piece of conduit we'd bent with B's tubing bender. For the actual trailing arms I plan to use 1.5 x .120" 4130 and also turn the sleeve for the front bushing on the lathe. Incredibly bad picture of it installed. Initially hit the knuckle and lateral link at full droop. Hit the wheel near full bump. Modified the box clevis on the rear end for clearance. So we've got a good plan on those now. Side note for those of you living in foreign countries or states. This is what our roads and parking lots look like in the winter time. That's salt, not frost. Picked up an EZ36 last week. Kinda wished I'd tried harder to find one that's more complete though. Junkyards of course normally sell them without accessories, so I bought those separate. But that means I don't have the brackets for them. Had a bracket that worked for the PS pump but the AC compressor is much different. EZ36 on left, EZ30D on right. Need to find a plug and pins to fit this. I got a resurfaced STI flywheel and Exedy clutch kit and B assembled all that and chased the threads in the block. You can see here where the junkyard cut the wires and coolant hose to the throttle body (I assume). They probably did this when they removed the throttle body, didn't even think about them stealing that, now I need to get one of those. Have heard of people using non Subaru. Plan on drive by wire but open to suggestion if there's something better than Subaru since I have to buy one either way. Got a trans mount, still need to install low range in the 6MT. Got a driveshaft and R180. Have engine mounts on order. Got some shiny headers from Australia, last set they had, hopefully we can make them work.

Awesome! So you think the cables were bad? In case it comes back keep these things in mind: 1. replace the starter contacts. Starter is 2 12mm bolts and easy to remove. Disassemble it and the contacts are like $10. Much cheaper and more reliable than aftermarket new starters which can fail in less than a year. The old contacts will be burnt, pitted, warn. 2. Older gen Subaru's very commonly have a starter signal issue from the signal wire/ignition/reference voltage. Here's a thread that I think somewhat describes it.

another update, left battery to charge for a while and now it starts

I'm stopping in this thread to say thanks to KiwiGL for posting about his repairs and mods. It keeps me inspired to work on mine. I added central locking to all the doors on my 87 DL wagon as well as added a hidden switch to disable the fuel pump. As for being crazy to repair a EA82? Well, I've been called worse. I actually enjoy the challenge to daily drive a 35 year old import which is easier to deal with since I have a backup vehicle available. Everything has limits of course but so far, I'm still rocking the EA82 and enjoying it so far.

valid reason, then.. The major difference is in the catalyst material itself, as ido said above... and would be related more to emissions, not fuel consumption. fwiw - slightly raising tire inflation will net you more in the way of fuel mileage than any cat would. I usually go with about halfway between recommended pressure (on the car's info tag) and max pressure listed on the tire.. and check it regularly..

Rear flange is rusted. The only performance gain I would bother with is increased gas mileage.

the car start and goes to 3k rpm at 30psi of fuel pressure when the rpm is getting lower it goes up abit then down to 30psi and stalls

It appears that you can't directly review final auction results unless you pay to join Copart. I found one of those many "auction results" consolidation websites that scrapes info from various auction sites and it shows it sold for $675 with additional $238 in auction fees. I could be completely wrong but that's what I found online through a 3rd party site.

Thanks for the insight on the repairs and cores. I haven't seen any heater cores available, let alone an all-metal solution. I find them listed for sale many places but when I actually move the part to the shopping cart it becomes "unavailable". I figure I will do a bypass for now so I can keep driving while I search for a solution. I might have to create my own with help from the local radiator shop.

88-91 XT relays are on the upper left of the photo you posted, above that brownish connector tucked agaisnt the side wall behind the fuse panel. But how can a relay fail and still allow the car to start and run for a moment? Sounds like a waste of time to me but maybe someone can chime in which relay (fuel pump?) and how they fail that allows them to prime and start but not run? I'd pull the fuel line first and see if fuel flows out like normal. Remove fuel clamp, point hose in bucket while priming and trying to start the vehicle. If you're not sure what the flow is supposed to look like video it and post a link. It should roughly look like a garden hosing flow water. Or of course even better - the proper test is to put a Tee in with a fuel pressure gauge.

There's a $300 bid on it with about 1 day to go so maybe it will be saved.

Still need a few parts before we put the engine and trans in. B replaced some of the coolant hoses and put the Kein engine mounts on. I put the used H6 radiator in. Bottom lines up perfect, need to move the top mounts but that'll be easy. It'll be tight with the EZ36 even with no fans. Modified the trailing arm fixture to also fixture longer lateral links. Tacked up a set. Waiting on Whiteline bushings so we can easily test fit these. Much easier to swap in and out than the stock bushings. B's driveshaft has been vibrating occasionally. He thought it was the center support bearing. He filled the old one out of his green Forester with urethane and then swapped it out. As he was doing that he noticed the front u-joint on his driveshaft was extremely worn, probably missing all the needles in two cups. Good thing he replaced it but the one he just put in vibrates over 55mph. Didn't get marked when it got disassembled so we'll probably try clocking it 180. TT called today and told me the writing on the rear diff of the red Impreza was just his way of telling me when he'd replaced the fluid. So that five bolt diff is probably stock. Maybe the one bolt diffs were a base model automatic thing?

after 142 in the electrical section, on the foldout section for the 2.7l in section b2

Thank you for the offer but I think I lucked out a fella is lookin to trade and he’s about an hour away from me just gotta check in on it

The stubby shaft stays with the transmission, it's not part of the axle. Punch the pin out (3/16" I think) and the axle slides right off the stubby shaft. Slide the new axle on and punch the pin back in. Keep in mind the axle only slides onto that stubby shaft one way. The holes line up two ways but it can be 180 degrees off. Look at the splines and how they are oriented with the holes. One side the valley is in the middle, the other side the peak is in the middle of the hole. Hard to explain but just look at how the splines interact with the two holes in the CV alxe cup when you remove it and you'll see. You guessed right. They are configured and installed exactly like EJ axles. I have EJ axles on mine (though it takes some extra steps to convert, they don't directly swap although I've seen people do it before!).

wow, getting close to 50 years of the green lol.

EA82 are green - so starting in 1985 at least. Unsure about earlier EA81.

He says compression is good, presuming he means when cold. The suspicion is that the head gasket fails while operating and causes loss of compression. I asked him whether he verified loss of compression when hot and he said he didn't check that.

I think the xt6 oem cv's were black. Don,t toss it, if it is not making noise yet, just clean, regrease, reboot and run it. Btw, the retainer pin only fits 1 way! The cv will slip on any spline,, the pin will seem to be ok in 2 places,, no, pin can start but will not align all the way through, only 1 is correct. Outer cv can be serviced while you have the inner one off, but they don't come off, just flush it out and repack grease, slip new boot over shaft.

in this case, I think the 'devil you know' is the best choice. re-do the heads.

I've used these for poor access areas where you have little room to swing a screwdriver. https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-right-angle-screwdriver-92630.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12169518939&campaignid=12169518939&utm_content=114845782057&adsetid=114845782057&product=92630&store=&gclid=CjwKCAiAk--dBhABEiwAchIwkdDNVyCimZX80gaVjNdSwGjtoCphKUwWpmo3055cdqDZjvjvR30EwRoCFqIQAvD_BwE

Lift kit, springs and bullbar are being arranged from Australia...

Hehehe those DL headlights are so 80’s! It’s as if the L series was trying Romero the delorean dream alive Cheers Bennie

That salt picture is definitely a worst case scenario but yeah it's bad. I'm not too surprised they pulled the throttle body off, if you're replacing a blown up engine the one on it could probably be swapped over. More pissed that they cut the wiring rather than unplugging that one connector. I'd like to have as few splices as possible. Know of any throttle bodies in particular that fit and are better in some way? I can get the main car side harness plug here, they just listed it: https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=1783 Headers weren't super expensive. Supposedly +20ft-lbs through most of the RPM range. Engine as expected didn't come with enough exhaust to work with so I was going to have to buy/make something either way. I'm going to hope for the best again on the head gaskets. Yes 90% of the EZ30s we've bought have needed them but those engines are twice as old as this one. Also it's quite a job. It's too bad there's nothing solid under the top of the fender to bolt to, I've seen braces that bolt in there but it seems like that part of the body is super flimsy. B's Forester does not have a U brace, that would probably help a ton. For this car I'm planning on bracing the front crossmember to the trans crossmember like I did on the black Outback.

Should add remote control for the central locking! One of the best mods I've done to this car, super cheap to do and dead easy.

Yes, in some ways I like the EA82, it does have a wonderful unique rumble to it, subtly different from the later model engines. It will still eventually be getting an EJ though.

Been done thousands of times. Depending on the LED, the dimmer doesn't always work. And they have to be wide angle LEDs, or you'll end up with bring and dark areas. Just know that the alternator circuit is looking for specific resistance across the battery light bulb, so either leave that one incandescent, or add a resistor to mimic it. Otherwise your alternator won't charge.

On my 1992 Loyale my son used to honk the horn with his fist :). No surprise that after some time the horn started honking on its own. I removed the top from the steering wheel, bent down those tabs and it is fine since that. Worth to try. Good luck, Sam

Also I'm doing the same, since 1985 However, he has everything to go to the dark side EJ route already, So I wish the best luck. EJ engined old subies feels like another car, by the way... Kind Regards.

Seriously, you have to ask this?? Only an insane person would fix the EA! Since the EJ and box is almost plug and play in this instance why wouldn’t you?! Cheers Bennie

Chosen engine source: JDMracingmotors of Montreal JDM Legacy JDM 2000-2002 3.0L H6 EZ30 Engine video of compression test on youtube. all over 180 psi parts list from rock auto Stabilizer Bar Bushing MOOG K200635 pack of 2 $7 Front Stabilizer Bar Link MOOG K80693 #20420AA003 pair $27 ac delco oil filter $4 air filter $7 fuel filter $16 serpentine accessory belt ac delco $17 Screw on trans filter beck arnley $5 PCV valve $6 beck arnley fuel injector refurb kit (four seals) x6 $5 ea (from dealer $36) Pre-existing RH fuel rail vapor odor- could be hoses or seals at injector Retain fuel rails from stock, due to JDM having water-dirt contamination from weather exposure. Swap fuel injectors from JDM intake to stock intake. Replace all fuel rail hoses and filter hoses Raybestos 3/8" magnetic trans filter inline at transmission cooler add-on hose ID PCV hose 0.4" valve cover 0.5" head to intake 8mm fuel line 8mm (5/16") evaporator 1/4" power steering return 0.4" 3/8" Dealer parts Trans seal(s) leaking at CV axle right side, left side also? Replace both axle seals and o-rings. leaking oil at trans, suspect from seal(s) retainer ring, o-ring x2 806984040 $2 ea retainer ring, oil seal 806730031 $5 RH verify side retainer ring, oil seal 806730032 $5 LH verify side front differential oil drain plug gasket 803926090 PCV hose to valve 11815AB083 $37 valve cover gasket R 13270AA104 $25 valve cover gasket L 13272AA104 $25 valve cover spark plug gaskets x6 13293AA051 $8 ea exhaust manifold gasket x2 44011AE040 $6 ea exhaust donut gasket 44011AE031 $9 exhaust flange bolt at donut x2 44059AA010 $3 ea exhaust spring at donut x2 44044AA010 $4 ea exhaust flange bolt nut at donut x2 802008270 $2 ea exhaust flange bolt at muffler x2 010510307 $2 ea exhaust gasket at muffler 44011AE01A $3 exhaust flange bolt at muffler 902350001 qty 2 $2 water pipe hose, right angle, top, RH front 99078AA090 $6 water pipe hose, dog leg, top, front, LH 99078AA120 $8 water pipe hose, RA, throttle body, top, RH rear 807607251 $5 hose, water pipe hose, throttle body, top, 21204AA681 $10 hose, water pump bypass, at Tstat, straight, 807615030 $10 hose, water, at oil cooler, right angle, 99078AA110 $8 hose, water, at oil cooler, straight, 807611060 $4 hose, water, at Tstat, right angle, 807611071 $5 HOSE-HEATER,OUTLET, 72421AE02A $15 HOSE-HEATER,INLET, 72411AC020 $15 hose, vacuum, Intake manifold, right side, front, 99071AB361 $4 reuse: hose, vacuum, Intake, left side, front, 99071AB280 $13 or purchase generic hose such as: High Performance Silicone Vacuum Hose - 5 feet - 5/16" ID (.3125"|8mm) - Blue https://www.ebay.com/itm/263495230935?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true parts to refurb torque converter Housing OIL SEAL 806750060 Price:$6.51 Input Shaft O RING 806920070 Price:$0.84 Oil Pump Shaft RING-SEAL,A 31361AA000 Price:$8.74 Oil Pump Shaft CIRCLIP-INNER 805343020 Price:$2.43 Low pressure side power steering hose from hard pipe near airbox to plastic reservior is cracked. Power steering low pressure HOSE-RETURN 34611AE14A two types, either $17 or $70. Unsure which one I have. Replace with Gates power steering return hose. 3/8" ID. GATES 350010 (350020) Power Steering Return Four types of power steering return hose, suction side of reservoir Will keep existing hose for now, not leaking 34611AE23A HOSE-SUCTION $19 34611AE12A HOSE-SUCTION $38 34611AE07A HOSE-SUCTION $20 34611AE08A HOSE-SUCTION $24 CLAMP-HEATER PIPE 72057AA001 $2 gasket, thermostat 21236AA010 $3 reuse existing thermostat and rad hoses (replace at next coolant flush) valve cover hose to air box R side valve cover hose to air box L side 11815AB062 $17 gasket, EGR hard pipe x2 14719AA033 $5 ea donor is RHD: swap intake over (see notes) GASKET-INTAKE MANIFOLD x2 14035AA410 $13 leave head gaskets alone reseal timing cover with three bond 1217H (for 1280B) oil pan pickup o-ring 806919080 reseal oil pan with ultra grey oil cooler o-ring replace with dealer part reseal rocker valve covers with OEM gaskets and sealant recommended sealant three bond 1280B - discontinued by SOA Replaced by THREE BOND 1217H Part Number: SOA868V9610 Alternative: 3M™ Ultrapro™ High Temp Silicone Gasket 08672 Black 3 Oz replace spark plugs x6 with NGK PLFR6A11 $8 ea platinum WASHER,CYLINDER HEAD SEALING 10982AA000 Two on timing chain cover, replaced timing cover, crank pulley, oil seal 806738200 $5 bucket and shim valve inspect. Largely in spec. replace spark plugs transmission rubber mount 41022AE12B seems intact ************** Job notes *************** intake manifold ************** prior to pulling engine- removed intake manifold due to difficulty accessing 4 torque converter bolts. injectors and fuel rails remain attached to manifold. must remove all 6 injector electrical connectors...this is not mentioned in procedure. must also remove LH oxygen sensor mate that is fastened to a metal bracket in order to remove the injectors and leave the harness on the engine. removed bracket first due to difficulty with this step. Intake differences: vacuum line to brake on right side of JDM intake, strange square plug on L side. Could just run a longer vacuum line to the fitting...or swap intake over...I chose to swap. ...notes from subaruoutback.org... Brake booster connection has a nipple on one side and a plug on the other. About half the time I can get the two broke out and swapped. If not I just run a longer hose, and save the one-way valve made into the OEM hose. AC compressor is different. Alt and PS pump are the same. No other major stuff to swap. No need to swap intake manifolds. ...end of subaruoutback.org... *********** engine separation ************** advised to use the special tool p/n 498277200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kent-Moore-498277200-Flywheel-Stopper-Subaru/372549661330?hash=item56bdb0b292:g:I2kAAOSwrmRcJVqM:sc:USPSFirstClass!37122!US!-1:rk:1:pf:0 Tool is a keeper for the torque converter, attached to the lower bolt hole for the starter. Otherwise torque converter can wiggle off the trans and come with the engine. This part is $130 on ebay. Some have made it themselves. Others have jury rigged something using ty-wrap, wire, or the alternator bolt and washers through a torque converter bolt hole. Part I made from 16 awg sheet metal bent on engine separation. The torque converter was easily pushed back in after the engine came out, but according to FSM, it needs to be around +0.1" offset from the trans bell housing. I measure it to around 0.25". So torque converter coming out. Not sure where the problem is. The oil pump shaft is seated on the converter well and the circlip is seated in the slots w/o obvious damage. Will reuse existing circlip. Possibly the input shaft was dislodged slightly. The input shaft came out when the torque converter was removed (easily). Has an o-ring that is degraded. Will replace. Reinstall input shaft into transmission. FSM states that it should be 0.197 - 0.217 offset from front of trans. I measure it at 0.204 so we're good. Oil pump shaft has a ring seal that is split, intentionally? Will replace. Oil seal will be replaced for good measure. Alternative, from USMB: When you get the bolts out of the TC and its free from the flexplate, take a big screwdriver or prybar and pry it back away from the flexplate. Should move back about 1/4" and disengage the pilot stub which will help keep the TC from sliding out when you separate the bellhousings. When you get the engine and trans separated about an inch, get a bolt that's about 3/4" longer than the width of the upper bellhousing. Get a nut and a fender washer to fit the bolt. slide the bolt into the top corner bellhousing bolt hole, put the box end of a large wrench, about 3/4", on the bolt, point the other end of the wrench towards the center stub of the TC. Slide the washer on, then the nut, then tighten it up. It doesn't need to be he-man tight. Just tight enough to keep the wrench from moving. Now as long as you didn't drag the TC out that far while trying to get the engine loose, it will stay seated properly until you've put the engine back in. images of timing cover internals https://www.flickr.com/photos/dbur971/sets/72157700601187324/ ************ transmission seal retainers *************** R side first Degreased externals. Removed retainer lock. Marked retainer. Removed with channel lock pliers and PVC tool. 7 turns to remove. Tapped out oil seal with rubber mallet. Removed bearing. Degreased. Reinstall new oil seal and o-ring. Reinstall bearing after coating with gear oil. Reinstall retainer 7 turns to hand tight. Used pliers to turn 1-2 more teeth to line up with mark. Reinstall retainer lock 25 ft-lb. L side next Degreased externals. Removed retainer lock. Marked retainer. Removed with channel lock pliers and PVC tool. 7.25 turns to remove. Tapped out oil seal with rubber mallet. Removed bearing. Degreased. Reinstall new oil seal and o-ring. Portion of differential popped out and was easily reinstalled with some wiggling. Reinstall bearing after coating with gear oil. Reinstall retainer 7 turns to hand tight. Used pliers to turn 3 more teeth to line up with mark. Rather tight for last tooth. Periodically rotated shaft during tightening. Shaft not overly light after retainer installed. ****************** A/C compressor ***************** swap old unit onto JDM engine. JDM has lines cut. Will be spare. Existing harness does not match JDM connectors. ***************** alternator ***************** JDM will be spare. Reinstall old unit. ****************** power steering *************** JDM will be spare. Reinstall old unit. Old cradle fits JDM engine. left side oxygen sensor cable cut. swap harness over L side knock sensor missing, harness cut. Swap sensor over. small ventilation hoses on front of valve cover to intake piping L side loose/cracked. Replace. R side seems ok Replace fuel lines on intake as needed Gates 5/16" 27348 Barricade MPI Fuel Line Amazon, 15' $41 Fuel evaporator vapor return line from intake to firewall is rotting, replaced with yellow 1/4" tygon tubing, fuel rated Tygon F-4040-A PVC Fuel And Lubricant Tubing, 1/4" ID, 3/8" OD, 1/16" Wall Replaced PCV valve. Sealed with ultra grey. Note that JDM valve did not seem to be sealed. Torque converter notes: Post submitted to USMB. See separate post of the ugliness. Tapped oil pump shaft oil seal in using a punch to try to gain some increased travel on torque converter. Ended up driving it in too far. Tried to pull it back with a slide hammer but tore the seal. Removed with slide hammer. Bought and installed new seal. Drove it in about 0.05" past lip this time to avoid covering oil access hole at 3pm position. Reinstall torque converter w/o issues on 2nd time. Separation is 0.15". Plenty of space between flex plate and converter w/o impact after engine reinstalled. Install 4 bolts, replace cover. Then install intake manifold. Flex plate: Installed while on engine stand. Used a 3/8" extension to brace flex plate against engine case. Torque to 60 ft. lb. Grease torque converter center stub and flex plate receiver. No bearing here. exhaust manifolds: scotch brite and orbital sand with 60 grit. spray gaskets with copper sealant. Leave flange prior to resonator as is. loose heat shield repaired with extra piece of sheet metal placed between shield and exhaust pipe. new donut gasket placed. front differential gear oil 80w90 @engine swap 3-2019 used walmart brand. Poured in with 1 qt container with hose/nozzle. Added about 1.25 qt. Crank bolt: Method to install in a manual trans does not work (locking brakes). No way to lock the torque converter, just spins. Should have tightened it while on engine stand when installing flex plate. Used a combination of 3/8" extensions and a large bolt to hold the crank pulley vs. the center bolt. Torque to 160 ft. lb. Took pictures of the madness. Might have stressed the idler pulley bearing on the A/C bracket. Engine install: After much trouble attempting to level out the engine on the hoist, which was pretty unsuccessful, install goes fairly smoothly anyway. Engine was listing to the right side and not tipped back to match the transmission. After a lot of jockeying to line up the two lower engine studs on the transmission bell housing, the engine was raised on the hoist effectively tipping it back. It slid in fairly far on the studs, and then a bit of wiggling and pressure at the 12:00 position got the two pins started. Had sanded and greased the pins prior. Install four upper bolts. Can't find the short bolt on the top, so use a power steering bracket bolt instead. Install four long bolts in lower portion of bell housing, plus two nuts on the lowest studs. Opted NOT to reseal trans pan. Will monitor fluid levels. Pan accessible with exhaust installed so will not have to drop exhaust for reseal. First start: cranked a long time w/o firing. Likely no fuel in rails. Cycled ign on and off 5-6 times to build up fuel pressure. Started and ran at low rpm for a short while, some chuffing and shaking/vibration of engine block that lessened. (In retrospect this shaking is likely due to bad O2 sensor wiring on RH, see below). Had coolant funnel installed. Did not get heat in cabin until temp had climbed quite a bit, but eventually had heat. Raced the engine 5-6 times then held at 2k rpm. Was checking trans fluid also so not a classic cooling system burp. Lower hose cold. Eventually cooling fans came on solid and temp climbing to 206. Shut down and capped. Next day topped off coolant, restarted. Heat in cabin came early. Raced engine as directed. Heat in lower hose, cooling fans cycling normally with temp dropping as expected. Shut down. Next start was later than evening, did a test drive with good cooling results, a bit of gurgling. Still fighting trans fluid levels. Auto trans shifted will on short test drive. Also did a burn in on new front brake pads, up to 40 mph with braking not to full stop, 5-6 times. Getting P0031 which is R side heater circuit on front sensor. O2 sensor itself is 1.6 ohms on tinned leads, open on gold leads. Suspect the heater ckt is on the tinned leads, which is normal reading. O2 sensors have 50k and 80k miles each. R side connector has two pins pushed out that are for heater ckt. Push pins back. Restart, now getting P0131 code. Engine idling rough. Swapped a spare O2 sensor on RH. Same P0131 code. Bought two new Denso O2 sensors from rock auto. New sensor on RH has same code. So now presuming there is a fault in the wiring harness. Either pinched something when installing the intake or the donor JDM engine harness had a preexisting fault. Found broken wire in RH engine harness connector, E47 on wiring diagram. Black wire, part of signal pair to ECM. Buzzed out to B21 connector at firewall. Harvest O2 connector from old engine harness and splice into new harness. Turns out that the signal pair is wired backwards from the drawing. Left as is. No more CEL codes. Three independant O2 sensor-related wiring harness problems with JDM donor harness (LH connector cut off, RH heater pins backed out, broken signal wire). Statistically, of all the potential problems with engine swap to have this type of concentration is bizarre. Transmission fluid: Having trouble getting trans fluid level measurement. Seems to be high, then low. Could be fluid residue getting on stick. Have already added about 4-5 quarts. From USMB: The only way I can get a reading is basically vehicle cold, start, shift through all gears on shifter, put in park pull stick, wipe, reinsert, (a few times, to get excess off stick) Then slowly insert stick, then slowly remove and look at both sides of stick holding it in front of the headlight. It should generally be somewhere in the cold range then. Soob says check it warm/hot but sheesh I just see fluid everywhere on all three soobs if I try it that way. Added about 2 additional quarts of wal-mart dex merc. Finally reading at low end of cold level on stick with engine running, after shifting through all gears, while cold. Next cold start still reading low, so added about 1/2 qt. Now reading just above high end cold.

Nice Standard Hatch, own an '86 STD myself. Basically the least amount of options and frills were put on these... the base of base models. Today that is probably a blessing because there is less to go wrong. Quite a bit of mods to make a fwd hatch into a 4wd; trans, rear driveline, mustache bar mounts, rear diff and axles, fuel tank swap, etc... if you have the 5 speed dual range the rear driveline must be custom as well. The round lights came factory on the STD's. If you want to go quad-light you will need to mod the radiator-core-support, as well as your headlight wiring to match the new light pigtails. The fuel tank is smaller, usually takes less than 10.5 gallons for me to fill up. You probably have the 4wd tank installed, which is different to accept the rear diff and mustache bar. Edit: now that I'm thinking about it, because you have a lift kit on (not sure how many inches the lift blocks are on the back) the lift would make the rear-drive mechanics clear the factory tank. Other things about the STD; Used the 1.6 EA71, instead of the 1.8 EA81 They came with 4-speed fwd, instead of 5-speed. There was no "intermittent" windshield wiper speed. They used the dash and steering wheel from the DL, meaning no Tach. No trip-meter or fuel-low-light either. Stereos usually were not included. There was no rear window defroster. There was not a passenger rear-view mirror. Instead of carpet there is a vinyl/linoleum-like floor that is easier to scrub clean, and doesnt trap dirt as much. There wasn't a console around the shifter, just a rubber boot on the top of the trans tunnel.

Theres a small amount of rust there, I will be taking care of it after I take care of some more pressing issues. I finished the exhaust this weekend. I went from the engine back with 2 inch stainless, with a center flex joint added, a center glass pack, and a 2 1/4 magniflow muffler. It sounds like a subaru that is for sure, its very quiet cruising, but sounds decent when you get on it. It woke it up a lot over the factory restricted exhaust, and the crap carburetor. I didn't have the rear muffler at this point, so this is where I stopped on friday. I went home to find my new muffler there, came back to work on Saturday and finished it up, along with change some fluids, and adjusted the carb some. I still have a little more to do, but is running very well. I ended up putting over 150 miles on it this weekend. Up next I need to fix some of the drivetrain issues. Lf cv joint makes noise occasionally, the clutch is pretty grabby, and the trans is pretty weak, but seems better after the fluid change.

Well it could someday! Your brat has lots of potential. My hatch was rusted, rotted and rolled over when I started... Here are some before and during shots of the build: