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the problem with this line of thinking is you are assuming it's ALL the rings that are "bad". When in fact, the compression rings are usually fine, it's just the oil rings that are the problem. It's not a worn bore, or tired compression rings. Just oil. Often these engines burn oil simply because the owners don't change oil often enough, and the coked up burnt oil clogs the oil control rings. That's it. They are clogged and stuck in the land, and can't scrape away oil anymore so they burn. Worse for boxers because gravity doesn't help keep the oil down. The compression rings ARE FINE. The bores are fine. It's just clogged oil rings 90% of the time making them burn oil. So honing out the bore, roughly, by hand, with a ball hone will produce a WAAAY more uneven, non-uniform finish than the factory. Plus, to properly hone, you need the block split, and if you do that then you better be ready to polish the crank and putt in new bearings. Why? Just to control oil consumption? It's pointless. EJ na engines mostly don't lose compression to ring wear.......they just sometimes need new oil control rings.

Who knew it was coin operated.

With the oil filter off you will see a port that is the other end of the pick up in the sump. There is a size of clear PVC tube about 10 mm? OD that you can shove in it add a funnel then pour oil into it, down to pick up. Has worked for me every time.

New update. I pulled the oil pump this afternoon, and the oil discharge port was half blocked by a large gob of what looks like ultra grey, and the oil pump back cover had one screw backed out.

Don't be afraid of grabbing an XT6! Someone grow a pair and bring this car back to life! Pics and price? You can post your ad in the for sale section, but the mediators seem flexible and will let you know if it's not allowed here. There are still some vital engine NOS parts to be found, you just need internet searching skills. As far as the 2.7 H6, I found every NOS seal to replace after doing a timing kit. Dayco timing belts work well, the only timing kit part that is nowhere to be found is the idler pulley. I found an NOS water, oil pump and lifters also. There are very good aftermarket head gaskets available. Ditch the broken pneumatic front struts for later year Legacy struts. Rear struts, ball joints, bushings, brakes are available aftermarket. Engine sensors are also available, yet expensive... IACV, MAF and TPS, remanufactured. Even the hybrid electric steering pump can be rebuilt with new brushes, the required specific power steering fluid is also available. As long as the frame is not rotted to death and the body panels don't need gallons of Bondo, this could be a decent Winter project for a Subaru enthusiast. But as GeneralDisorder said, don't expect to get back even close to what you have into it, the general rule of most classics.

Worked perfectly mate! Thanks heaps!!

have you tried vegetable oil? I know, seems too simple but it has worked for me many times removing adhesive residue. keep applying it and use gentle abrasion with a cloth to remove top layers and then continue deeper.

I would do open race 7207's. They are available in much higher quality. I would use Amsoil synthetic waterproof grease. The open races allow more grease in the knuckle and you can control what grease gets used. GD

The sohc ej22 is actually narrower than an ea82. The ea82 is stupidly wide for what it is, it's as big as a DOHC EJ. Probably easiest to keep the original trans and find an ea81 or ea71 for bolt in simplicity.

My '77 coupe has an EZ30. Lots work there., But point is you really can do anything if you have some skills, time and access to metal. EA81 will drop in with relative ease. Some crossmember work, depending on trans choice. And steering clearance check. I would recommend using one for a quicker route to more acceptable 'Daily Driver' power. EA82 needs trans crossmember and engine mount hole widening. The engine will technically fit, but the front frame rails will be 'uncomfortably' close. Hitting the accelerator hard can bash the plastic timing belt guard if the mounts are not perfect... Which they are not. EA82 trans is almost guaranteed to hit the steering rag joint. With that engine getting to the distributor is a pain around the brake master cylinder. If your particular Master cylinder has the lines aiming straight down, you will have to switch it to one with them aiming to the right. Can't directly state as to the EJ, never done it. However you likely need most, if not all, of the mods required to run EA82, as they measure close in size.

Subaru parts are built by other companies like NTN, NSK, etc to Subaru’s specifications. These companies can then also supply those to other companies for resale. The quality doesn’t have to be the same for Subaru supplied parts and aftermarket supplies parts for the exact same part. but Subaru is small, and parts market not discerning enough, to make it worth their time to do anything but make one part for both. Though storage, packaging, delivery, and other non manufacturing qualities factors could skip Subaru QA. But this is all uncertain conjecture...moving along.... that doesn’t matter - the point is that yes those parts are available from other companies and yes you can often find the Subaru OEM pulleys aftermarket. Like AISIn kits. One issue is suppliers putting together timing kits don’t keep using the same company for the same parts. Gates could use OEM pulleys for a time and then other brands later, it’s still the same kit for the same motor for their parts catalog. That moving target can be problematic. But buying one at a time and verifying the manufacturer will help get the right part each time if you’re unsure what a given company supplies.

Mitchy Look at the two smooth pullies in both pictures you posted. In the top pic they are side by side and one is flipped over in the second pic one is on the left and one on the right. In the first pic they have 2 bearings per pully. In the second pic of the GMB and you'll notice they only have 1 bearing per pully. I tried GMB once and those two pullies lasted less than a year. The water pump from the kit leaked at the shaft seal in 3 weeks. The belt was Dayco so I reused it on both repairs.

technically, yes, the tread depth will affect circumference - but.. it is the overall circumference that will affect the tranny operation - you want all 4 tires to be within 1/4" maximum. a donut spare is NOT going to be the same circumference as a regular tire - even if the tread depth is the same you can have two different tires with the exact same tread depth, yet still be different in measured circumference - this happens frequently with different brands - which is why it is always recommended to have all 4 tires be the same brand, model and treadwear on a Subaru.

put the spare on the back - front tires should match, and run with the fuse in place - short term only. fwiw - tread depth has little to do with how the tranny copes - it is circumference that you should be concerned with - the distance around the tire.

I was a tooth off on the Timing belt. I cant beleive I did that. Oh well. Thanks for the help everyone!

OK......today was the day. I sold my Subaru, and I got my asking price too. But the best part for me was knowing it was going to a local buyer and that he is a Subaru nut like the rest of us. He plans on taking out the 1.8 carb engine.....rebuilding it.......and putting in back into his other (less than steller condition one) GL. My old car is going to get the deluxe treatment with the upgraded Fuel Injection type......since its in better shape overall. I'm just glad it went to a new home to be saved once again and will continue to live on.........was a great car I will always remember as "The RedRoo". I'll still be active on this board, got moms 85 to still keep going, lol. The money from the sale will buy some much wanted accessories for my Honda Element, so its a "win win" for all involved.

Turns out the switch for the Center Light was bad. Pulled it out of the dash and it looked like it had been underwater with rust happening. Swapped it out with a better condition switch and the 3rd Eye is active again. Thanks for your posts el_freddo and Subi81. Feel as though I understand the Center Light setup more now, even though I didnt have to dig very far. Checked grounds and connections, then checked that the bulb itself was good, before trading out the switch itself.

You can probably disassemble that switch and clean up the contacts. I think you can still get them on RockAuto...

That’s going to have the side starter. Lots of options if you care to search. Most folks are going to upgrade to a 90-95 EJ22 , but you’ll have to go by budget , availability , time you’re willing to devote , space to work , etc. Not experienced but I think the EA82 will fit but be very tight as I recall. Archives will tell you. Did meet a guy who drove a long way to off-road / meet with other USMB member and his Gen II Brat has the XT6 engine stuffed into it.

All this money talk and you’re buying wiper fluid?! You're in for a treat! Many gas stations have FREE squeegees, find one, or carry a box of DIY wet free napkins from McDonalds! free and take less time than battery research, equipment, and blowing up batteries with salt, and it’s free free free! I commend your focus on data. Get some good data and let the world know. data driven, useful, and economic info is good. Keep in mind battery life is erratic and statistically a sample size of a few is all but meaningless. If my battery lasts 5 years and cost $74 that’s .00074 cents per mile, one of the most benign costs of vehicle ownership. NICO genius boosts = who cares when I replace my battery! maximize battery life with no risk of stranding, multiple uses and functionality, all in a tiny package. Win win win win win......

They will pump back up in operation. Replace the o-rings on the OD of the lifters. The hole being half plugged limits the flow of oil to the entire engine. Including the lifters. GD

NGK for plugs and wires. GD

Taking a rest in Gibraltar after 700km... Cheeky Cheekier

Yes - Napa probably does have a cheap Taiwan-made bearing for $15 - but it will be a plain 6207. It will not be a 6207-2RS-C3. The "-2RS" calls out a double-sealed bearing which will be pre-greased and sealed for life. The "-C3" component calls for an electric motor bearing internal clearance spec. If you simply go to a bearing supplier you will get 5 times the bearing (Japanese or US made) for the same money. You will also save on grease and mess as you need only apply a light grease to the new wheel seals, etc - since the 2RS bearings come pre-greased and sealed. This also provides further protection from the elements. If you really want to never do wheel bearings again - get yourself a set of 7207's and set it up for axial thrust loading. Though you may have to play with shims on the inner race pre-load spacer to get it right. I found that a .001" shim ring on the spacer brought my hub temps right down where I wanted them after a test drive. As far as greasing if you use open bearings - pack each bearing completely full and fill the chamber around the spacer about 1/3. Ideally you want about 1/3 of the chamber filled with grease when it heats up and flows. Too much grease is a bad thing as it doesn't allow for expansion. 1/3 chamber capacity is the standard for bearing greaseing. GD

I haven't done my rear bearings yet, but when I did the front one I got a big brass drift punch, basically just a big brass dowel, about 3/4 inch across and a foot long. I took the knuckle out and layed it on some beefy scrap wood. Then I banged all around the outer race until the bearings came out. Used the same punch to bang the new bearings back in. I actually only replaced a couple of the bearings. Give them a good cleaning and listen to them spin. Follow your ears when deciding which to replace.