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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/10/20 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    If the pump looks like that, then the rest of the engine is likely not far behind it. Putting a really nice pump on there is a great way to destroy the good pump when it encounters all the metal from the engine. The pump isn't going to help the situation. GD
  2. 3 points
    I have found the problem. After reviewing the wiring diagram supplied by a friend with AllData access, I saw that there is a separate branch of the Ignitor/Distributor circuit leading off to the Automatic choke. The wire had come in contact (direct ground) causing my fuse to blow.
  3. 2 points
    Rescued this badge for a little bling Fuji pencils skimped on. Same size as cast in plastic badge Already got SUBARU GL on other side
  4. 2 points
    Normal. In fact, looks like a pretty small amount for a manual transmission with that many miles on it. ASSuming it's actually an old-gen car, very small chance it's never been done in that time.
  5. 2 points
    Well these take about 8-9 quarts so 2 quarts over might not be all that bad. Also they ARE atmospheric vented so pressure shouldn't build up to any significant degree. For sure it's not a great idea to overfill it - not ideal by any means. The most likely result being aeration of the fluid leading to cavitation of the pump and possibly noises and lack of proper lubrication. GD
  6. 2 points
    Yes. It's also nice on toast. GD
  7. 2 points
    thanks for the tip GD. I assume you apply it to the outer lip of the plug wire as shown below at the widest point of contour? Or do you slather it over everything from the front bumper back to the A pillar;-)?
  8. 2 points
    Low mileage is actually a bad thing with the 4 speed. Matt who I previously spoke of has an absolutely MINT, garaged, all original 83 GL wagon with 52k original miles on it and 3rd gear is shot in that transmission already. Grinds and pops out of gear because it never had the retrofit done. That's why he is considering potentially doing the retrofit on it at some point (likely with my help). Since he works at the parts department I think he has hoarded enough parts over several years of searching that he might have a chance of getting it done. But he is leaning toward a 5 speed swap because they are so much better. If someone truly wanted me to attempt the job........ I'm going to charge double what a modern 5 speed rebuild would cost due to the effort, difficulty finding parts, R&D, substantial learning curve, custom tooling that will likely never be used again...... So about $5,000 GD
  9. 2 points
    Yeah, since the 2 known temps were in range, and the drift while it cools was normal, I'd say it's ok. I found it, searched for ohms - CTS Test - put the sensor in a pan with some water, on a stove top. Use a thermometer and an ohm meter. It took a while, looking through my FSMs and finding my old notes - Water temp sensor ohms 14F 7000 - 11500 68F 2000-3000 122F 700-1000 Above are from the FSM. Below are actual measurements. Done at 2 different times, compiled here. The 1990 unit was in a good running engine. The new dealer unit was bought locally, and I made the measurements before installing it to get the extra reference points. measured ohms temp 1990 used new dealer unit 77F 2390 122F 1154 1098 185F 400 190F 454
  10. 2 points
    Love your line-up Bennie! Looks like a great collection of old school Subie charm.
  11. 2 points
    Get the engine up to operating temp. Shut down. Disconnect the connector. Connect an ohmmeter to the sensor leads [it has 2 wires]. Watch the ohms. take note of the hot, and look every 10 minutes or so. And for a while every so often. What you want to see is a slow rate of change, not jumping around crazyness. Somewhere on this forum I have posted some typical numbers and temps. The exact values are not super critical, but the general slope and smooth change is.
  12. 2 points
    That’s so awesome! Targa top too. Good choice! Keep it tidy and don’t go over modding it so it’s ruined Here’s mine. It’ll get an EJ and an AWD box to go with it. All reversible. ^ the white brumby is my mother inlaw’s, she had it on the road for about 12 years. It’s now sitting and waiting for club rego so it can still be driven semi regularly. I hope your son learns to drive them properly. Ringing their neck every day because they’re slow will only kill them. Cheers Bennie
  13. 1 point
    Same for EA81 - 20 mm Three per head
  14. 1 point
    We've been waiting 8 years for those results! I have those same problems.
  15. 1 point
    glad you got it sorted out and thanks for coming back and letting everyone know the results.
  16. 1 point
    Wow. Again, ASSuming it's an old gen, and that's really 25-30 year old oil, it's definitely time to get it out of there. But the shavings are nothing to worry about. They use a metallic plug for a reason because shavings happen. Yep, plain jane GL-50 80w90 will treat it well.
  17. 1 point
    +1, penetrant isn’t necessary or the key here. No need for it. I use it sometimes down the shaft, maybe speeding things up a little towards the end.
  18. 1 point
    took the fuel pump out of the car and it has a bunch of what looked like possible corrosion, and the pump also had no strainer on it so im hoping that this is what wrong with the car. I never checked the pump just threw the new tank in. ill post an update tomorrow after i throw the pump in.
  19. 1 point
    In this case, the auto choke I had removed and replaced with manual. For 50k miles it had sat right where I intentionally left it: and then one day.. . I just hadn’t considered that it was in that circuit, AND would wait until firing/running to eat the fuse.
  20. 1 point
    Probably wire, Switch to another cylinder, clear code and see if code returns on the new cylinder. O.
  21. 1 point
    So, I just finished my CTS testing. I was unable to find where you previously posted “normal” values for this specific test, but based on the numbers I got I think my CTS is fine. Results are as follows: Tested resistance before starting the car, totally cold, just to cross-reference the value with the FSM value for 68°F, which is about the temp it is out in the morning. Value was 2.454 kOhms, which is dead center of the FSM range. Ran the car until warm, turned it off and immediately tested resistance: 320.85 Ohms 10min: 0.401 kOhms 20min: 0.498 kOhms 30min: 0.584 kOhms 40min: 0.671 kOhms 50min: 0.762 kOhms 60min: 0.849 kOhms Probably could’ve stopped here, but wanted to be absolutely sure 70min: 0.934 kOhms 80min: 1.013 kOhms 90min: 1.134 kOhms Assuming these values are normal (as previously stated, I can’t locate the thread with proper values posted in it), would the next logical thing to test be my fuel pressure under different conditions (upon startup, warm up, driving, asking a lot of the car, going up an incline, etc)?
  22. 1 point
    I have a 2014 XV, regular model. The original Panasonic battery lasted 6 yrs and 44k miles, just now replaced it. Was reading 7.68V as I tried to start the car, and it just clicked a few times. Replacing the battery is straightfwd with a small 10mm combo wrench. Your electric rear hatch will not work once you disconnect your old battery, so don't have the new battery sitting back there. Rear brake light bulb was also original and easy enough to replace yourself, but note a couple of things. You want a 10mm socket to remove the two black screws that retain the entire tail light assembly onto the frame, beneath the rear hatch. Once the two screws are removed, you probably want to be wearing grippy gloves as you carefully but firmly pull the entire tail light assembly STRAIGHT back from the care to remove it, NOT out to the side. There are plastic retainer clips inside that you can't see or get at from the outside, and you will crack them if you try to pry the tail light off the car sideways. Capiche?
  23. 1 point
    Taking a wild guess that you're a machinist... Nice work! Are you swapping the battery to the drivers side?
  24. 1 point
    As far as I know, the designer had an accident while testing one of the gyrocopters, I'm not sure if it was DOHC EA82 powered, but production run might be pretty short ... and yes, they look very interesting, worth to save an EA82 DOHC converted engine, on a Museum. I agree, I dislike timing Belts... in a car, the worst that could Happen is that your car left you stranded in the Middle of Nowhere if a timing belt fails... now think about the same fail happening, but in the middle of the atmosphere ... ... Kind Regards.
  25. 1 point
    My '69 Mercury Comet Coupé already reached 45 Years, all of them with us, as part of my Family ... ... Kind Regards.