Leaderboard

It can be done, but I would recommend cutting in the middle, turning the OD down to match some seamless heavy-wall tubing with some plug-welding holes pre-drilled in it. Press it into the sleeve with a .001" interference fit then weld up the ends and all the plugs. You should keep the splined ends wrapped in a wet rag to prevent them from losing their heat treat. GD

I will say that a proper explanation from Shawn would be a lot more helpful than deleting the previous thread. Why can't we all just work this out and help both parties to a mutually beneficial solution? I've got a lot of use from this forum and I thank Shawn for maintaining it for us. I would chip in for shipping to get this transmission to his customer if that's what needs to happen. I don't see this being that difficult to resolve and I don't see how ignoring it or deleting it will help either. GD

Hey, I never really had occasion to post in Members Rides, but last week we bought our seventh Subi, and I thought I would line up the fleet for a group photo. These are all Outbacks - 2005, 2012, 2018. The two older ones are H6 engines, which we like. This is Subi 4, 6 and 7. Our daughter took off with 3 (which she rolled in the snow), and 5, which she took to Colorado with 265,000 miles. C

Cheap knock sensors are a REALLY bad idea. Just because the sensor meets the ECU's expectations of circuit resistance says NOTHING about it's ability to accurately profile the noise from the engine and trigger the ECU's knock detection threshold correctly. The sensor is a piezoelectric microphone and buying the cheap ebay ones is the equivalent of buying dollar store earbuds and trying to listen to high definition audio. The accuracy of the sensor depends on MUCH more than the resistance of the circuit used by the ECU to determine if it's failed or not. They are also "tuned" to listen to specific kilohertz frequency ranges. Anything from about 2Khz to 17Khz can be found on different engines and the determining factor on knock sensor frequency is largely the bore and stroke of the engine. So for reasons of accurate knock detection it is a bad idea to give the ECU a different model of sensor other than what it was designed to listen to. GD

I cannot believe what this was! The screw that held/holds the ignition switch into the key lock assembly was gone. SO...when the key was turned to start, the switch moved in the casing just enough that no contact was made. One screw and fixed. Man...that was easy! But now I know what to do if problems occur in the future! Thanks Guys! Todd

My suggestion is: don't replace either one. The plug wires are not a failure point unless run with bad plugs (excessive gap) or soaked in oil from plug well seals leaking. The coils almost never fail unless treated similarly or allowed to corrode from lack of dielectric grease. NGK for wires, OEM Subaru for coil pack. If you must. Don't fix it till it's broken - change the plugs, clean and lube the coil terminals. Done. GD

We have been working on this for a bit now, and have several units in the field along with a growing library of base maps for running the OBD-I harness EJ engines (turbo and non) on a plug-and-play LINK ECU. With minor changes to a few pins, and running a vacuum line to the ECU you can be up and running with no codes and modern full programmable stand-alone features in a matter of minutes. LINK developed this board for the V1-2 WRX/STI over in Europe, Australia, and Japan. It happens to share the same basic pinout as the USDM EJ22 and EJ22T cars (Legacy 90-94, and Legacy Sport 91-94). The LINK supports full motorsports features such as: G4+ PlugIn Key Features Up to 6D fuel and ignition mapping Precision closed loop cam control (four cam, independent control) Sequential fuel delivery Digital triggering, all OEM patterns OEM idle hardware supported 5D boost control with three switchable tables Motorsport features - antilag, launch, flat shift Continuous barometric correction (on board) CAN port QuickTune - automated fuel tuning Individual cylinder correction USB tuning cable included Stats recording into on-board memory Gear compensations for spark, boost and fuel Real time selectable dual fuel, ignition and boost maps Sync and crank sensors can be a combination of Hall effect, variable reluctance or optical Boost control referenced to gear, speed or throttle position Up to 32Mbit internal logging memory Staged injection Knock with "windowing" This is the ECU we use for this application: http://dealers.linkecu.com/WRX2Plus Our kits also include a 3-bar map sensor, and the expansion loom for adding inputs such as wideband O2 (highly recommended), fuel pressure, EGT, or any other input you would like to map to an ECU function, alarm output, etc. Included in our package is our dyno derived base map library for the EJ, as well as technical support, and 1 hour of remote tuning assistance to get you up and running and driveable to your local dyno shop or on the street tuning either professionally or personally. The tuning software is completely free and there are no licensing or other fees associated with the software. EVER! You can freely download the latest version from the LINK website anytime even if you don't own a LINK ECU. The software is very user friendly and has amazing documentation - right clicking on just about anything brings up a help window. Tired of those expensive MAF sensors? Throw it away forever. LINK can run speed density, or use any MAF from thousands of other newer vehicles - frequency MAF from an LS? No problem. Throttle body not large enough? Bad TPS? No problem - adapt a newer model. You can change any sensor to anything you like from any make and model supported in the software. Just pull from your choice of car in the junk yard and change a few ECU settings. NO LIMITATIONS. Tired of the limitations of the OBD-I factory ECU? The LINK ECU package with included MAP sensor, XS Loom, basemaps, and remote tuning assistance are $1499 Here's a Dyno sheet from our shop's 1991 Legacy Sport Sedan. This car is 100% stock with only 3" turbo-back exhaust. Factory rated at 165 crank HP on 8 psi. This is @ 16 psi with a LINK ECU, and redline bumped up to 7200: 176.11 AWHP, and 196.17 AWTQ. Corrected for drivetrain losses that's about 210 crank HP from the stock EJ22T with only exhaust mods. Please feel free to contact me either here, or through Facebook or email for any questions, etc. GD

We use copper washers. They are reusable. And cheaper. https://www.buyautosupply.com/products/bas03546-m20-copper-drain-plug-gasket.html As stated, you CANNOT reuse the factory crush washer. They are designed with a bubble that conforms only once and then must be thrown away. If you use them they will generally leak or if not they require much more torque than they should which can damage the pan. The copper washers will conform half a dozen times. After which you replace them. They can be annealed if you absolutely must by heating to cherry red and allowing to air cool. GD

Been reusing mine for 10 or so years now. It's a washer.

The problem can be as Mike104 said, or if you have anti-theft in could be a relay or something else. Had the same problem on 2 of our 95s and our 97 Legacy RHD with automatics. Most of the time they would start but some times the starter would not work. I added a Push Button to the starter circuit. Now my wife just turns the key on and hits the button if it don't start with the key. Very important on the mail route. Beside the steering wheel are 4 rectangles, two on the left and two on the right. One or two may be populated with push on - push off switches like for fog lights or something. Drop the steering wheel down with the release lever. Take out the 4 screws holding the bezel in front of the gauges and you will have access to the back side of it. Pop out the right rectangle and drill a hole (I think it is a 1/2 inch) in it to accommodate the push button switch. The one I used (20 or 30 AMP) is available at most auto parts stores. The button is silver. It fits tight. I only had to trim out a little plastic for it to fit. Mount it with the terminals facing to the right. You can tap into an empty spot on the fuse panel that is hot only with Ignition ON. Use a 1/4 inch male spade crimp connector. Hook that wire to one of the terminals on the switch. From the other terminal run a wire through a rubber plug in the firewall and over to the starter. At the starter solenoid connection I did this. Get a male spade connector and an insulated female spade connector and a 4 inch piece of wire. Crimp the short wire and the wire from the push button switch in the male connector. Crimp the insulated female connector on the other end of the short wire. Unplug the wire from the starter solenoid and plug it onto the male connector and then plug the female connector onto the starter solenoid. Now if the key does not start the engine, just hit the push button. Keep in mind that it will start no matter where the shifter is...…… Most people are in the habit of having it in park.

LINK or perhaps use copper scouring pad that won't rust away like steel wool?

Might be better off buying one that has not been crashed and needs an engine. It may be less work and costs effective.

I removed the mech fan and installed a 12" generic electric fan from Amazon. Ran all summer with a/c and no issues. Wired it with a relay switched from the factory electric fan on the R side of rad. Super happy and it seems to have a little more pep.

Actually I do mean when idling in gear, like stopped at a light, which is why I joked "demonic possession". Makes no sense, but there it is anyway! Throw the car in neutral and the vibration disappears. It has been suggested that transmission mount may be at fault (and I do have one that is torn) but I had no issue prior to replacement of axle.

Cut the oil filter and check for metal. Could be a timing belt tensioner - hard to tell from the video. If it's a rod, you will see metal in the filter. DO NOT drive it. You will wreck the cylinder heads and they are EXPENSIVE. Best deal going is the Subaru reman short blocks for about $2350. Cylinder heads will need complete disassembly and cleaning - especially the intake rocker assembly - of all contaminated metal. In the US this is usually about a $5,000 to $6,000 repair. GD

Once while at the dealer, I complained of rattling heat shields and before I could protest, watched as they drilled a sheet metal screw through the shield into the exhaust! I have since taken to using large stainless hose clamps that cross the junction from one section to the next.

If no external leaks are noted and no drop in reservoir fluid level, Rampage's suggestion that internal master cylinder seals are failing, allowing fluid to pass by and not build pressure seems like a likely culprit.

This is not the first time the dude has taken 100-200 reminders to respond or square up. We have had bad experiences as well and I know of many others... And $500 is a huge number. I see them online for 200 all day.... I saw the first post and it had a lot of support. Then was deleted? Not Cool at all!

Found it here...https://www.autopartsway.com/secure/ordercomplete.cfm

The VP of LINK for North and South America (Jason Oefelein) personally tunes on my DynoJet and helps build our base maps, provides tech support, etc. He is local to us and formerly operated Portland Speed Industries - whom we bought our Dyno from when they closed their doors last year - he liked the product so much he became their VP. He has about 20 years tuning experience and has been using LINK since the early days. Look for a lot more applications such as a likely adapter harness for the 95 to 99 car harnesses, and I'll be bringing LINK to the Domestic vintage GM TBI and TPI applications such as third gen F body, TBI cars/trucks, and C4 Corvettes, etc. LINK has an amazing following and a superb product but has, till now, no presence in these markets and very little North American presence in the Subaru market. Tuning with a LINK is like a dream come true. Once you try it you will never want to go back to anything else. GD

My first Subaru was an XT6. Regardless I always wanted another one. I’ve had recurring dreams about the freaking car for 20 years now. I’ve been busy with work and I’m gonna try to Putz with it this weekend.

Dorman sells a box of 20mm washers but, yeah, you could just buy a several next time you're at the dealer too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001SNRGAA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just because it's cutting power to the "acc" circuit doesn't tell you anything about the condition of the contacts in the "ST" circuit. I'd get the multimeter out and test for power coming out of it in that position. I wouldn't be surprised if it's nothing. Ignition and inhibitor switches have almost identical function, they can fail without warning.

This seems to be a common issue. Since you direct wired the solenoid that verifies that the starter and large wire to starter are good. I think you have also verified the neutral safety switch (has a different name on AT cars but same thing). What you can try is measuring the voltage at the solenoid connection when the key is turned to Start. If the voltage is low you could try adding a relay to the solenoid circuit that is powered directly from the battery. I did this for several years after replacing almost every part in the system to no avail. Since you said that there is no power at the solenoid when turned to start it may be the ignition switch or potentially a fuse.

fix the headgasket, sell the car, buy a turbo Forester to play with.