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Update found 2 burn resistors and soldered them in and it fires right up

I changed out the sender, cleaned the oil off the top of the engine as best I could, and took the dog for a ride. So far so good, that may have been the only leak. I got this one from the local Napa, I'll get a couple more coming via mail order. Thanks, all!

Well, enough to get the horn to work, which was needed to pass the Safety Inspection. They had failed my 2002 Impreza wagon for no horn. I provided a ground at the under dash connector and it worked fine, so continued up to the steering wheel. No continuity between the lower dash connector and the horn wire. That pointed to the clock-spring. Being in Hawaii and with limited parts I pulled it apart. careful taking it apart gave me access to the spool of wire ribbon that makes up the clock-spring. Sure enough close to one end it was toast. I cut it back a couple of inches and stripped off the insulation with a razor blade. That allowed me to tuck the copper leads into the connector for the horn. The airbag was out of it already and I sure would not have done this repair if I wanted the airbag to work. I just needed a horn for the island beater.

Yes. both were rated for .57 ohms and had OL and the other 450k ohms and I notice after replacing them both my oil pressure gauge reads accurately now

I've managed to keep the momentum I've built this last few days by removing the hull of the Impreza from my shop. In the interest of clearing the walkway even more I've decided to start preparing to transplant the rear end, which means removing the old one. This turned out to be easier than expected - probably in part because of the practice I had pulling the subframe from the Impreza, and partly because this one had fewer and more accessible bolts holding the thing on. I've learned a few things from today's endeavors. 1) the Impreza fuel tank is too long/wide to fit in place of its original counterpart in the Brat. This "too wide" feature seems to be a trend and for good reason - the wheelbase left to right when measured before removal were a good nine inches different, give or take. As such I'll likely either end up needing to reuse the original tank and run an aftermarket pump (most appealing, easiest on my wallet), or building/locating/modifying a new fuel cell to fit. Whether or not I will be able to use the original tank largely relies on item 2. 2) While the wheelbases are different, it looks like the differentials and housings themselves are very similar in size and shape - so much so that I'm tempted to think they used a modified version of the molds for the diff cases - or at least a very close one. The only visual differences I've been able to scope out at a glance are a few missing bolt holes on the Impreza cases vs. the Brat. There will probably be something more significantly different that I find as I dig into it more. The big "what if" that stands currently is how much fabrication I will need to do in order to get the Impreza differential and subframe parts onto the Brat without causing interference problems with the original fuel tank. If I'm extremely lucky I might even be able to reuse a couple of the mounting bolt holes and front crossmember from the original brat - albeit with a bushing refresh. My plan here is to remove the struts from the Impreza rear end next - which should then allow me to roll the existing crossmember under the Brat bed to check and see what lines up and what doesnt. 3) Lastly and certainly not least - if the preceding items line up, I believe that again with some creative angle grinder surgery I can, similarly to the front end, move the pivot points for the rear suspension inboard far enough to maintain the stock Impreza components without completely custom control arms. Adjustable arms may still be smart and will probably end up being necessary to keep things tracking straight but at least this way I can still drop in off-the-shelf components for an Impreza instead of destroying my bank account. Onto the next one...

I vaguely remember a youtube video about having to hook a computer up to the car and set something before installing the brakes. I'll see if I can find it again...

Hello Everyone! I haven't been here in forever. I was an active member from 2005 to about 2015. Life took me to different things, but funny how the waves of fate have brought me back again. Quick history: I first became a Subaru guy when, in 1992, I bought a 1980 GL wagon for $600. That little wagon got me all over the state of California. In the late 1990's. After that one died, and a 1987 normally aspired GL wagon coming in a out of my life, I got the car that would connect me to the USMB... Murphy, the 1987 $500 GL-10 Turbo Wagon! I was often found in the Old Gen section sharing all the wrenching adventures about Murph. I also had a Frankenstein 1982 BRAT, but Murphy was my love. I ended up parting ways with it in 2015, and forever wished I hadn't. Since then, I've gone through a couple more Subies; a 2009 Forester XT, and a 2003 BAJA. Both were sold last year to finance the restructuring of my business. I hated to part with the two vehicles, and hated to be without a Subaru, but the money from the sales got me through the difficult period. And now, I am in a position to get a new car... And I did! 2010 Outback 3.6R Limited OK. It's not "new", but it's new to me. It's a gem. 117k miles on it. Very clean. Gonna be posting some questions soon.

That video is OK, but kind of short on detail. Do a YouTube search for "Miles Fox EA82" and watch his timing belt video. He posted on this board for a long time, and his videos are good ones that have a lot of why you're doing what you're doing instead of just how to do it.

Thanks for the replies! I followed the procedure in this video for timing and double checked the holes are opposing on the two cams and align with the seams but can’t hurt to triple check. I also made sure to rotate the crank one full rotation after fitting the first belt. Checked the distributor alignment and that I have spark on all cylinders. Hoping it’s just my spoob mechanical skills and not something expensive 🤞 Will let y’all know what I find.

Is anything interfering with the clutch pedal? Carpet or mat for example?

It'd read somewhere between 2 and 100. I remember when ford fixed complaints of low oil pressure by replacing the gauge sender with a switch and resistor, so the gauge always read 2/3rds from 2psi up...

It's definitely motor oil. I looked closely at that sensor, and I can see oil bubbling out of it. It must be bad if my old eyes can see it. NAPA calls that an oil pressure switch, and they should get it in today or tomorrow. Oddly, NAPA specs say it's a 2-7psi switch. I guess that means it closes somewhere between 2 and 7PSI? or maybe closes at two, re-opens at 7? That seems WAY low. If I put a proper gauge there, what would it read?

If there's air, theres a leak. Check the lines for wetness and under the clutch reservoir. Get a scredriver and depress the slave piston in so you can wiggle the clutch fork back and forth. It should only move in two directions. If it's flopping all over the place, somethings broken, bearing, fork, pivot pin.

The engine develops more power and responds quicker as a result of improving the suction in this breather system, for some odd reason.

Thank you so much, I found some engine codes elsewhere but this list is much better, especially due to me having the SPFI as opposed to the MPFI 🙏🙏

You could narrow the subframe... you could add fender flares... orrr.... you could cut the brat down the middle and add 6" of sheet metal!

Interesting... It'd be interesting to see if it's possible to remove the splines themselves from the axles. It looks to me like the splines were broached and then pressed into the inner DOJ race. I wonder if they can be removed from the race, get a custom 23/25 spline insert machined or broached, and then pressing that back into the DOJ race. What I'd mainly be interested in swapping is the outer joint, as this is what seems to be making noise on tight turns (getting out of parking, etc). But swapping in a new axle and keeping the inner race does the same thing. I'll be experimenting with swapping axle parts this week. At the minimum they all need to be regreased. Haven't heard much from the transmission rebuilder, just that I may use my spare as a parts transmission if they end up needing parts. I gave em all the seals I could get ahold of and a copy of the FSM. I'll keep y'all updated with photos if I can snap a few. Thanks for hanging in there along with me :]

Couple more updates... some good, some not so good. The good - Late last week I managed to get the new subframe stripped of the coils, and rolled it under the chassis of the Brat. It looks like the original front mount for the differential will line up great - it is almost exactly the same size. This is super lucky in that it also appears that the rear wheels will line up with the exisiting wheel wells- at least axially, I'll still need to move the wheels inboard about 4-5" on each side to get everything to sit under the car. I may also need to flare the wheel wells just a little if I can't get the wheelbase shortened quite far enough. The not-so-good - 1) Fuel tanks don't clear. The impreza tank is far too wide to fit in the Brat frame, and the Brat tank interferes with the Impreza subframe. Current plan there is to remove the Brat tank to get the impreza rear diff subframe lined up and chopped to fit, then potentially modify the brat tank (hopefully some clever hammering and denting will be enough) to get it to fit over the new suspension mounts and components. 2) Annoyingly the neighbor with a penchant for anonymous code complaints is back, and along with several other neghbors I've received another note from the city about a number of minor infractions, to include the car. Called the compliance guy again and he's been super helpful. Made it pretty clear I'm not trying to litter up the place and that I really just want to work on my car and not have to worry about getting called into court over it, so looks like the car cover from the impreza is going back into regular service. 3) Lastly and most obnoxiously I found out today that I have been hobbling around most of the last week on a broken leg (due to activities unrelated to the car project) so I would expect major updates to be sparse for the next while. Fingers crossed for good news at the specialist visit in the morning, though i'm expecting not to be able to lift and shove brat parts around for a little while. Maybe I'll be surprised though. Either way - little pieces of progress are still progress, so I'm gonna keep plugging at what I can when I can, so stay tuned.

Colorado and Hawaii. Welcome in both.

I am a new member here and thought I would give an update on what I've found out about PRP. I called and talked to them several times about the possibility of making new gaskets. They said that the company that used to make them for them has gone out of business in the US and they would have to work outside the country to get them made. They said that I would have to commit to a full run (at least 200) and pay for the tooling workup. It was going to be way too cost prohibitive. Autoglasswarehouse in Brisbane has some seals but will not ship internationally, I asked them several times. You can have a company pick them up and ship them, but the quote I got was $160. I may buy 5-10 gaskets and have them shipped to try to bring the price down a bit if others are interested. The windshield gasket alone is about $120. LMK if anyone has an interest.

If (and until someone tests a pair, that's a big if) the renault ones are indeed a good fit, coilovers for that vehicle would also fit, like https://www.apmotorsport.co.uk/product-page/megane-2-rs-ast-5100-1-way . But they're waaaay out of my budget, so I haven't been looking at anything similar. If searching, be warned most seem designed to lower the vehicle, because non-subaru owners are weird.

Yeah, the initial plan is to chop and shorten the stock Impreza CVs to get things rolling . If need be later down the line I'll get some custom built but I'm a decent DIY-er in my own right so I'm hoping to get lucky and not need to outsource.

Yeah I get that you want to run the auto until it’s proper dead. But you’re also wasting valuable conversion time - and when (or more importantly), where will the auto let you down again? It’s almost Russian roulette. My thoughts on the matter. If you’re keen on the auto keep at it. I’m no guru and I don’t know if this applies to just one or both autos in the MY and L Series - from reading on here common issues seem to be the pump shaft spline stripping out or the governor device on the side of the transmission under the dome bit giving issues. Cheers Bennie

I know swapping it is the ideal route, and I’ve got the whole parts wagon ready. But I think there’s still a bit more life left in this 3AT. It’s not grinding or making any weird noises. I pull out the good old service manual and run some tests this weekend.

Both ‘17 Legacy’s have eyesight and all 3 have electronic parking brakes.

Mint looking MY! Auto… “just” manual swap it - you’ll thank yourself later. Cheers Bennie

Sorry for the late update on this Issue. I'm pretty sure the contacts in the ignition switch are bad. I installed a push button that gives the starter a direct 12V upon press. So when the issue pops up, just key on and Push button.

I've replaced the brake-pads (front & rear) on my 2017 Forester. And with no problems. But my Forester has the old-style hand-brake lever - no electronic brake gizmos.

I’ve done front and rear brakes on my ‘15, ‘17 and my sons ‘17 Legacy’s and I’ve never had any issues afterwards. Maybe an Outback thing. On these 3, I replaced pads and rotors.

I feel your pain. 2006 is the newest I will go. Yes, I'd start with the codes.

Any autopsy pics? My popcorn is going cold Cheers Bennie

Top row numbers are: 31711 AC743 Bottom row numbers are: A64-000 DM3 4824

You could have them welded up and then retap as well but a good used is the way to go.

Thanks everyone. I just discovered the new iteration of the bracket involves a few different mounting screws that I need to get, along with the newer tensioner style. I tried to helicoil the stripped holes and did not execute it properly... so now im looking for the discontinued part (13086AA012). This engine is in pretty decent shape from what I can tell, has never overheated when ive had it. But I believe you are right, el_freddo that the threads had previously taken a beating. Its the 2 tensioner (not pulley) bolt holes that got stripped. Long story about the failed helicoils... ill spare you the details. Anyhow the dealership didnt seem to understand how to make the new bracket work for this car so I believe Im just going to pursue finding the discontinued part, if that doesn't work Ill look to "modernize". Thanks any tips on this part would be much appreciated.

I finally got an easy one! The 2002 was missing intermittently, bad enough to affect driveability. We got under the hood and tried spraying propane from an unlit torch along the vacuum hoses, for just in case it had a vacuum leak. No luck with that, but I did hear a tick each time it missed. I started paying attention, and was able to see a spark jumping from one of the coil end plug wire boots to a rubber hose! The boots had gotten dirty, and the medium voltage had made a track to ground. I pulled each boot and wiped the outside of the boot with a rag moistened in WD40, and wiped the dirt and carbon off the coil where the boot plugs on. FIXED! New plug wires are on the way. On a side note, we tried sticking the unlit torch into the air intake and opening it as wide as it would go. Couldn't hear any change in the motor noise. That trick might have worked with carbureted engines, but it doesn't seem to work with this engine.

Is this where some guy chimes in to break your stones about not having a reciprocating saw? Oh wait that’s FB Cool deal. I’m with you for having as opposed to finding out later you have not. You can trash it when the job is done I always say. Keep up the good work. This is very likely on my horizon.

Got the transmission tunnel and parts of the firewall out as well as the remaining brake and fuel lines. The husk is now well and truly a husk. Some might ask "why the firewall?" when i have a perfectly good Brat firewall and my response is to preserve the mounting hole patterns for the Impreza parts like the brake master cylinder and passthroughs. I may not need them all but this way I at least have good templates or even pieces to splice in where I need them later. Getting the Impreza body scrapped this week and putting the brat back up on stands to get the rear end removed. Looking at it I assumed the removal would be an easier task than it was - there's way more structural stuff in there than it appears at first glance, especially were I've cut it. Took me much longer than anticipated to finish the removal, especially since I was using a 4.5" angle grinder to do it. Were I to do this again or make suggestions to other folks - use a good reciprocating saw at the support ribs - it will make for much cleaner cuts.

And even easier if the OP is going to remove the heads. @4wdHonky- if you have a bottom end bearing issue you could swap the NA block in for the turbo one AND swap the turbo pistons in at the same time. The bottom ends are all the same, just the pistons are different for lower compression partly due to lower grade fuels and crappy tuning in the 80’s and partly for boost being applied. Personally I’d try to keep the stock turbo engine running as it is if there aren’t any other issues other than the spark plug hole. Cheers Bennie

Repairing a stripped spark plug hole is a much smaller project than the other options... I haven't tried, but I've seen people do it in the vehicle and just blow the chips out afterwards.

Parts are out there, but they're not common at all. If it were me, I'd pull the turbo engine and keep it around. Then pull your NA EA81 and convert it to TBI using an EA82 SPFI intake and throttle body. There is documentation out there of how to do this but you'd be looking at a bit of work. Either way I'd say it's worth it, save these cars and SAVE YOUR PARTS! Good luck mate :]

I did it. I bought a 1986 GL Wagon as my first ever Subaru. It already has a few modifications such as a lift, 5 lug adapters, larger wheels/tires and BMW headlights that I will be keeping. I need to rework the DIY fender flares that it has. I'm looking for a replacement manual transmission for this year as the one I have is in pieces. I would like to put the original one back together so feel free to point me in the right direction for a build/repair manual. Thanks!

Is yours still operated from the factory control box? If so here is a schematic diagram of what's inside. I think most people throw this away completely and run it off a DPDT toggle switch. Mine had a problem which required me to replace one of the relays inside and one of the electrolytic capacitors. I can't remember what the problem was exactly, it was a while ago, 2016 Need to be handy with the soldering iron for this option. The relay on the left of the image below. I ordered one from an online supplier like Mouser or RS components IIRC. It turned out to be too big but I made it work anyway. Still working to this day.

Whole pedal box assy out:

Alright guys thank you, I have solved the issue. It was both the PB and the cable. The one thing I learned from this is BUY QUALITY PARTS. Man the difference between the oriellys cable and the genuine Subaru cable is insane. Can you guess who is who?

Oh herro, that's my thread that I had actually forgotten about... For the linkage - Disconnect the link altogether, manually push that lever on the side of the transmition to Park, and set the shifter inside up to Park (get a 2nd person) and lock it back up there if you suspect it may need adjustment. As for the shifting problem, for me it was my Governor Valve, HOWEVER, it wasn't the G.V. itself, it turned out to be the drive gear on the end of it. When I removed it the drive was 'applecored', so like a moron I thought "its got 230000kms on it, probably worn out, she'll be right" and swapped in another gear out of a 3AT FWD I had laying about, not knowing that they are actually different. Took it out for a fang and all seemed ok. Two days and about 230 kms later, same deal. Accelerating up a hill, then nothing. Limped home and inspected the new governor and its chewed out as well. So I decided to do some investigating into what surface the drive gear of the governor runs on. This has the governor valve drive gear that chewed out circled. And this one details the Reduction Gear which the Governor is driven from. Images taken from the parts manual uploaded by Willy Fisterbottom. And this last one is taken from Transmax Australia's catalogue. This is a really good picture that shows the Helix that the Governor is driven off. I still have not gotten around to pulling my gearbox out and tearing it down or else I would upload the photos of whats going on in there. At this stage I can only assume that there is some foreign material or a chipped tooth on that reduction gear. If I were you, id pull the G.V., check it out and clean it, see if the drive gear is applecored. If it is, id be starting to chase another 3AT. Good luck.

What company were you in touch with? I haven't heard back yet, so I might have to ping them again...

I recently did one in my 83 coupe and it was pretty easy. I had to take the clutch pedal off to get the new cable on . just follow the old one through the fire wall and hook it up the same way the other one was.

i have the opportunity to purchase a one owner 1984 subaru gl turbo wagon that has 85000 miles on it. it is an automatic with 4 wheel drive. it is absolutely immaculate on the inside and out, could pass for brand new as it was garage kept its whole life. the car is for sale at a very reputable subaru shop here in oregon and they want $3000.00 for it. i test drove it today for about an hour and the thing runs flawlessly. the shift into reverse is a little loud but it ran sooooo nice. does anyone have any advice about the reliability of the ea81 turbo engine or experience with this vehicle that could help me in either deciding to go through with the purchase or not? is $3000.00 too much for it? i need a second car for my wife to run around town with. should i put 3 grand into this or an older legacy that i know will run forever??? thanks for any advice...

They are always inserted with the head toward the pedal assembly frame. That's why you don't remove the clevis pin till AFTER you remove the clutch pedal from the assembly. It's a single E clip and the whole pedal slides off the end of the pivot.... You should read my clutch cable replacement guide: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/clutch.html And you WANT an OEM cable. They are like $18. To the dealer my friend..... GD

You need everything related to the shifters and you should make some reference marks on the turbowagon that correspond to the donor car so you know where to drill holes for the shifter mounting holes. Need: Clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, clutch cable, shift fork, throwout bearing, flywheel bolts. Be sure to use the 83 and up 4 spd dual range with the larger clutch and don't plan on romping on it if you want any life out of your tranny or the clutch. The starter is interchangable. Your Auto trans bellhousing will work as is but I think you need a bracket or something off the manual trans bellhousing on the top to make it proper. Look at both cars and youll understand. You need the pedal assembly with all 3 pedals and the bolts that go into the firewall. You should skip the hill holder and put a clutch return spring on instead. The $ spent making brackets, buying the hill holder, and buying/making brake lines would be much better spent on the rear disc brake swap. Look at the yards for an 84 DL wagon 2/4wd, these were cheaper models and had no hill holder and have the spring I am talking about. The speedo cable is required your AT one is too short. Get a couple of rubber caps off a radiator at the junkyard for the tranny cooler lines to make for a cleaner install. You will have to enlarge the hole around the shifter in the trans tunnel. Short length of rubber hose and golf tee (or similar) to plug off vac line that runs down to the Vac Modulator on the side of the tranny. The front swaybar might not clear the trans so grab the swaybar and all the brackets including the radius rod brackets. Shifter trim dual range lever and the mount on the tunnel for it, maybe even the radio console if yours isnt the small console that stops before the shifter (I think your turbo wagon should have the smal one mine does). You have to jumper the wire on the neutral safety switch (on the tranny shifter plug its a 4 prong connector) so the starter will crank. You will lose cruise control because the switches on the brake and gas pedal dont swap over so give up on it while you are at it. The driveshaft will work as is. The front axles work as is. The downpipe off the turbo will no longer bolt to the side of the trans IIRC. Dont let this turbowagon turn into one like mine (never ending upgrades project). Started 3AT, then 4spd dual, then RX FT4wd difflock trans...used engine, rebuilt ea81T, now EJ22...BYB 3" lift kit, yanked went 4" full frame lift kit,....still have yet to plate+drive this car more than up the block. Either way at least you are starting out with one that runs. 10-15 years ago there was a guy that could do this swap in 4 hours actual time and got paid about 25 shop time. Take your time and I think you could do it in a weekend if you got some good plywood and a nice day. Remember he had 2 lifts, a full shop, and a donor car RIGHT next to the Turbo car.