Leaderboard

When I went to take out this upper left bolt it was feeling really tight, then "rubbery", then the head broke off ... I tried "liquid Wrench" with a nut on the end taping it a bunch with a hammer to "induce vibration" gripping it real tight with needle nose vice grips, etc. and letting it baste for a couple of days.. SO I thought maybe I could use it as a stud with a sleeve nut and it torqued down good. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/album/897-ea82-water-pump-broken-bolt-fix/

Looks like the CV boot is cracked and slinging grease. Clear signs of it slinging out. How old is the axle? Theres a very small chance it could be old grease we are seeing. Check the axle boot for cracking. Or give us closer pictures of the ribs/convolutions so we can look for a crack. If it is, Reboot or replace the axle.

2006 Tribeca H6, 215k miles, Fixed my Cylinder 1 misfire by soldering IC608 as shown in the above post. First checked pin to board solder joint, then traced to this IC that grounds each injector. Please don't bake your entire board. There's also a video on youtube where Black Horse Repairs completely removes the chip to clean and install with new solder. Again, very risky, just use a fine solder tip and reflow only the pins of this chip. Post something after this if anyone even still works on these cars!

Well I just wanna finish up the story of this issue, in case it will help anyone else coming across the same questions! Long story short, it ended up being a problem with both the timing belt AND the camshaft sensor. I don't know exactly how those two things may have been related to each other in the moment, but here's the longer version of what happened: I checked the timing belt shortly after it was suggested I do so, and laughably, that definitely seemed to be the problem as when I opened up the covers, the timing belt sorta...flopped out. It had broken in half. Which frustrated and confused me, since I had changed it less than a year ago! This time, I ordered an actual Subaru brand timing belt (I *had* done my research to buy the last one, and decided on getting the whole kit from a brand - I can't remember it now but I'll look it up - that was recommended to me as being just as good as getting Subaru parts!), and a friend and I put that belt in and also discovered that the tensioner roller seemed to have seized. That bushing that the bolt goes through was just....stuck, somehow. Crappy part? We're not exactly sure, but luckily I had a new one waiting, and we put that in along with the belt. The piston tensioner and everything else was fine. So we put everything back together and presto! The car started, sounded fine and normal, and I was ecstatic! My friend went on her way and I drove to the store later that evening -- where, halfway there, the same thing happened as back when all this started. Very suddenly, the car died, no rough running, no weird noises, just noped out and the engine shut itself off. Luckily I was on an only mildly busy street and managed to pull to the side as it was happening. Tried to start it again and it was an absolute no-go. Starter motor tried, but no crank. So this time, I didn't sit there with my heat-addled brain trying to get it to start over and over, and just got a tow back home. Once there, I notice the check engine light is actually on (a rarity in this particular car), and I get the codes for coolant temp sensor, camshaft position sensor AGAIN, and knock sensor. So my friend comes back over the next morning with all her toolkit and we look at the sensors. The wiring looks fine, and suddenly, she's able to start the car and it runs at idle without dying. We poke and prod the wiring harness, can't kill it. Then we wonder about the signal getting to the ECU, whether it's just weak, or intermittent, or what have you. The harness FROM the ECU to the sensor tests good (thankfully - my car for whatever reason does not have that big harness connector at the firewall - the harness goes through and into the dash and there's not a damn thing you can do about it LOL). We test the sensor itself but we don't have an oscilloscope so the best we can do is see that it IS getting some voltage when we swing it past a large piece of metal. Then we look into the wiring order itself, since neither the sensor nor the cobbled-together connectors I put in have the original wiring color scheme (according to various manuals.) We decide to swap colors (in this case, the sensor has red, white, and black. We know the black is the shielded one so that goes to yellow on the harness, which, incidentally, goes back to a large black wire where it pins into the ECU). Just for funsies. Because the other two colors on the harness are white and black, and the other two colors on the sensor are white and red, so what if white goes to white, like...ya know...makes sense? So we do that and immediately get some new information - car does not like that AT ALL. It starts, it runs, but it makes angry noises and won't go above 3000 rpm. So, just to be scientific, we take the sensor all the way out to confirm that yes indeed, the car will not start without the camshaft sensor (I mean, ya gotta try, right? LOL) So luckily, on a whim, I had ordered another sensor off of EBay (because parts stores want to charge me $300 for it and at this moment I'm not exactly made of money, which is why I'm doing all this myself with the help of cool friends). We manage to find a wiring diagram that includes the SENSOR wiring (I wish I could tell you where, I think my friend still had access to some super-secret mechanics' manuals from when she worked at an auto shop) and discover that it goes like this, for anyone interested who has this particular setup: ECU big black wire (shield) --> harness yellow wire --> sensor black wire; ECU white wire --> harness white wire --> sensor RED wire; ECU small black wire --> harness black wire --> sensor WHITE wire. So with the new (used) sensor wired in like that, we start the car up again, everything runs peachy keen, I drive around town a bit with my friend following me in case anything else happens, and the car runs like a dream, except the check engine light comes on again! I drive home, check the CEL code, and it tells me it's the knock sensor...........which I had forgotten to tighten down way back at the beginning and it was completely loose 😂 That was that, for now, in this saga! As of this moment my car is running like a champ with no check engine lights and we're hoping it stays that way! Hope any of this info ends up being helpful and/or interesting to someone, thanks to everyone here for their help and suggestions!

I mean, it's a truck; 8.5" Chevy 10 bolt rear, two FWD ea 5 speeds, one D/R ea 5 speed, 2 axles (think they're ej rears) an ej25 intake manifold, and a 97 Impreza L rear differential = Carolina squat BRAT. What's that, maybe 700lbs? 500? I don't know but it's definitely the most I've put back there yet. I need to look at the rear brakes. Noises. I'm going to have to come up with some type of quick disconnect to mount the seats in the back. They're a little annoying when you're trying to load stuff, would be way more ideal if they were easily removable. I would also like to fit some type of bench seat setup in the cab, maybe from an old Nissan hard body or a Mazda or something. Would be nice to be able to squeeze 3 people in the cab on occasion if the need is there. #dreams Put a good 400 miles on it over the course of 2 days last weekend. Averages 29 mpg on the highway super consistently. It'll do 90 which is about where it is here (via GPS) noticed the speedo gets inaccurate about at about 75 maybe they never thought it would be there 🤣🤣 It's way happier cruising in the 70-75 mph range, that seems to be a good happy spot for it. Anything over 3500 rpm is a bit excessive. There's been a heat wave here in the northeast and I gotta say cruising on the highway with the sliding window open, the t tops out, and the windows down with the music cranked is pretty awesome.

A 93 22 intake manifold won’t plug into the EJ25. It could work if you bolt a 1995-1998 EJ22 intake manifold on it and figure out all the minor pvc and vacuum and other bits. 93 EJ22 block bolts to EJ25 trans and exhaust. Bolt 95-98 intake manifold onto 93 engine and it’ll plug into the EJ25. 1995 EJ22 from an automatic is the direct bolt in option. Manual 95 works too but just won’t have EGR which you can easily work around. 1996-1998 EJ22 are all bolt in and plug and play if you also get a single port EJ22 exhaust manifold. It bolts right in place. The EJ25 exhaust is dual port and won’t bolt to the 96+ EJ22. (95 EJ22 has dual port exhaust heads so it bolts right up to the ej25 exhaust

Rain has finally stopped in Minnesota, time to get the Brat out.

I think that price is fair given mileage and availability. For a future vintage project I just drove several hours mostly due to NYC traffic to pay $800 for a low mileage sedan with the early 2.2. Car had interior stripped so I really paid for the engine, harnesses, and not a lot else. I will also try to extract the 4EAT transmission for our 94 Legacy but if that doesn’t happen I still feel I got a somewhat fair deal. Guys like me have to wake up and realize there are no more $500 beaters. Also, I would never make the effort I did for any other engine. It’s the first edition 2.2 and that’s it. Simple and reliable.

85 F. is about 30 C. I'm using DOT 3 brake fluid and I sucked out the fluid in the reservoir and put in new a year ago. I didn't flush the whole system. I suspect the problem is more mechanical. When I pull the clutch up it goes through some resistance, just like you do when you push the clutch pedal down. Halfway up it then pops the clutch all the way up. Its as though a spring or something gives resistance. The car has some bad rust around the right rear fender and rear door frame. So I'm not too interested in the car's longevity.

Most folks avoid that four cam engine. It’s such a short run and Subaru then offered a more reliable 2.5 To me it had better be dirt cheap because you’re rolling the dice. my opinion

Drove up to the UP Friday night and checked a few of the camping areas we'd found on the last trip. First one had a few people in it including some guys setting off fireworks so I went to the next one which was unoccupied. Camped near an outhouse along the river/reservoir and set up the tent. B showed up a few hours later. Saturday we headed to the first suspension test area. First thing in the morning the tach in the Impreza didn't work but then it started working after some driving and a few restarts and has been working fine since. Stopped at a cool waterfall/rapids at an old bridge/dam with some people fishing just downstream. Saw a Forester out in a field with the back sheet metal cut off. Took a few trails/roads we hadn't been on before that went through but I tried one too many. We'd gone north most of the way on this road before and then went east the long way so this time I tried going all the way north. It was fine until it wasn't. Got stuck in a mud hole in the Impreza. Took us a couple hours to get it out with the high lift and recovery ramps and snatch strap. Then it took us a few more hours to get both the cars turned around. Once we were out on foot digging and jacking it became clear the road was covered with 3-4” diameter logs. These were both a help and a hindrance. We did learn a few things though. One, we need to practice using our high lifts more or perhaps watch some videos. B's seems to just lock up occasionally. Mine wasn't lowering consistently. At one point I kept “lifting” even though it was mostly the jack sinking rather than the car lifting which then took a while to jack the jack out of the mud. I really need to fab a rear bumper for the Impreza with good recovery points. The 1.25” square adapter I bolted on my high lift was mostly useful but with all this heavy use started to rotate, so that could use an upgrade. Definitely need a bigger lifting foot too. I made one for the high lift I keep in the white Outback but it fits so tight I never bother to take it on and off so it makes the high lift even more of a hassle to store. Solving those issues probably would have cut our recovery time in half or less. Gotreads folding recovery ramps were alright. At least once they worked their magic, tire would suck them under and then grab. We slightly bent them but they still fold back in the carrying bag. Definitely more practical to carry than the solid recovery boards we have. We really need to pack the winch so it's more accessible too. Currently I have it buried in the spare tire well. There weren't many large trees around but we probably could have cut our time significantly by winching. While we were getting unstuck we found some scraps of styrofoam, part of a tow strap with hook that we used during our recovery, a floor mat probably from a UTV, a leather work glove, and a few beer cans. So we probably weren't the first people to get stuck there. At any rate, we got out and finally made it to the first suspension testing area. B could go significantly faster in the Forester than I was going in the Impreza without “bottoming”. The Impreza had the front end banging noise we've had in the Foresters that shows up sometimes even when we don't seem to be hitting very large obstactles. Got some baseline max speeds with slight bottoming on a relatively high speed road with some big but fairly smooth dips in it. We started with our tires at 35-40psi and then tried it again at 25psi, didn't notice much difference in ride quality. B did say the Forester seemed less squirrelly at the lower tire pressures, I felt the Impreza understeered less at the lower tire pressures. Just beyond that suspension test stretch is a log section where we were going about 10mph. Headed on to an area where we'd driven through a lot of whoops before. Unfortunately when we got there we found they'd graded most of them smooth. We did find one winding trail that was still whooped out though, very fun to rip through that at 35-40mph. Again the Impreza was limited by the banging noises. We headed on to the next section of whoops that's fairly close to a campground we've stayed at a few times. As we were approaching them it was dark and there was quite a bit of standing water in the trail so we decided to just camp for the night. Sunday morning we headed back up to the fast whoops. You can run most of these at 50-60mph but there are some near the end that are really big so 40-45 is more prudent. 60 will get you very airborne. Again the Impreza was limited by the banging and the Forester could go significantly faster. It was mainly the left front so we tried swapping front tires side to side (two different brands but both mud tires in the same size at the same pressures), that made no difference. We'd brought a set of front struts with different valving in them for the Forester and rear struts with different valving in the Impreza. Since the Impreza was limited by the front end banging and the front struts are easier to swap, we put the struts with new valving in the Forester and the ones off the Forester on the Impreza to see if it would fix the banging. B said the new strut valving felt generally more damped and didn't get as airborne off the same big whoops at the same speed. The struts off the Forester didn't seem better in the Impreza. We headed back to the winding whoops trail to test our changes. Similar results to the faster whoops. We were trying to figure out what might cause the banging noise and noticed the aluminum front control arm bushing on the corner that was making noise flexed a lot more than usual so we swapped that out with a less used spare. The banging noise almost went away, now I was able to drive the Impreza as fast as the Forester with minimal banging noises. This made sense as B has this problem most often, including the last trip, but we'd just replaced those bushings on his car before this trip. Then we headed back to the original test road. Again I was able to drive about as fast as the Forester with much less banging than before. There's a dip at the end that makes a decent jump in the one direction, the cars jump and land fine but at 50+ you're going a little fast for the dips right after the landing section so the cars bounce a bit. Also was able to drive the Impreza as fast as the Forester now through the logs with the fresher bushing. We swapped the front struts on the Impreza back to what we started with. Was maybe slightly better, we both felt that set we started on the front of the Forester was bouncier than the other setups which makes sense looking at the valving. We took the short (distance) way to the campsite which took a few hours. The longer distance way we took the next day takes about a half hour. Bounced the RR tire of the Impreza off a rock on the way there. Put a hole in the sidewall. Tried plugging it but even with three plugs it was still audibly leaking so we just swapped on the spare. Camped at a site we'd found on the last trip overlooking a stream/river. In the morning we headed up to town to meet my brother and take him for a ride and shoot some video since he's the real shock tuning expert. North of town there are tons of trails and we spent a little time wandering and found a wide powerline grade with two trails side by side, one whooped out, that we'd been on before and seemed good for shooting some video. Again the Impreza's coolant temp would start to climb on fairly low speed 2-3000RPM second gear light throttle type terrain especially with a lot of soft sand. As soon as we either stopped and idled or moved at a higher speed the temps came right back down. Still thinking that's the lean tune at low loads and RPM, need to set up another tune at stoich to test between the two. Met up with my brother and took him on a ride through the fun winding whoop trail and the side by side powerline whoops to get some video and took some notes on his thoughts. One thing B and I discussed since neither of the cars we took has functional AC at the moment is how much the 200F heater core under the dash increases cabin temps. Assuming once these cars are 20+ years old a fair amount of air leaks past the control flaps too. Will probably try some shutoff valves and some extra hose to bypass the heater core for summertime use and see if that helps. Even with the AC working, if it reduced cabin temps by 10F that would just improve AC performance further. Definitely seemed cooler driving the Impreza with the windows down to turn the fan off or switch to defrost/floor since the air coming out of the vents felt well above ambient. Overall it was a good weekend. Annoying being stuck that long in the heat and humidity but gave us/reinforced some ideas about improved vehicle recovery. Didn't execute the full original shock testing plan but we think we finally figured out the mysterious banging noise and it's a fairly easy fix and the valving changes we did make seemed to be an improvement. Also both cars seemed to go through the whoops pretty well.

If it has a cracked head, the coolant likely leaks, and it may have a history of overheating. Beware!

100% that’s CV grease from the boot in the pic. Reboot and go again. Cheers Bennie

While you are in there tighten the oil pump back plate screws and replace the o-ring.

Hey guys, Got this all figured out- all good info above. I ended up going with a Ø3" 1/8" thick Viton disc that I was able to get from McMaster: Gasket Material Disc, Chemical-Resistant Viton® Fluoroelastomer, 3" Diameter, 1/8" Thick | McMaster-Carr Matched up pretty well with the diameter and thickness of the old gasket, and you don't have to try to cut a perfect circle out of a sheet with an exacto. (wow I remembered how to use photobucket- blast from the past in some super old albums) I used an exacto and some hollow punches to recreate the hole pattern and the center opening for the fuel send unit (far from perfect) Cleaned up the fuel sending unit flange the best I could Aaaaannnddd... was still leaking. So, I noticed that the little G10 (maybe?) board where the leads are soldered in was rusted good all around, and probably the original source of the leak. Take the sending unit in and out a few times, agitate it, flake off what little rust is holding it all together and more leaking. So, I took some Tank Weld and filled around the outer perimeter of the board Been running it like this for a couple months now with no signs of leaks. I can fill the tank all the way up and accurately track fuel mileage now (~ 26 mpg highway with the 3AT, 65 mph ~ 3800 rpms - better mileage than my 94 GT wagon) Side note- replaced the rear fuel filter this morning (started getting some bucking going uphill- classic symptom of fuel filter clog) and found this Looks like sand. Was originally a Florida car. Been dailying it since Spring started.

That’s an awesome fix for a crappy situation! Good on you for thinking outside the box and even better for sharing! I’m guessing you had to drill out the hole in the water pump to accommodate that style of nut, correct? Cheers Bennie

I found them on Amazon, local big box hardware stores don't have em ... we can by nut and bolt kits for "baby cribs" but all the nuts are same length. this seller has them in 15mm and 20mm length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VT6Y58J?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Chux is right - they’re the same phase so it’ll install fine but will require one extra step: the legacy and Imp final drive won’t match. The simplest solution is to swap the rear diff to match the trans 4.44 final drive ratio. legacy should be 4.44 so you’ll need a 4.44 rear diff that accepts your Impreza axles. 02 Impreza rear axles May not slide into a 2001 legacy rear diff. I could be wrong I don’t follow Impreza closely I’m unsure if the rear axles swap but Impreza and legacy rear axles aren’t always interchangeable in the same year. Legacys went to newer axle style before Imprezas. Not sure when that happened and Imprezas had a few changes through the early 00’s. so you’ll have to research which axles the 02 Impreza uses and get a matching 4.44 rear diff That being said there’s no way losing fluid in a radiator swap was enough to trash the transmission. losing that amount would not bring the fluid level from between the low/high marks on the dipstick, to not registering on the dipstick, which it would need to in order to damage anything. Also if the trans were that unforgiving to losing a pint of fluid or less they’d be blowing up left and right with steep mountains and spirited driving sloshing the fluid around.

Thank you very much for your comment !

Seems about right to me. If the system is cooling properly it will shut off until gas temps rise again to trigger the AC pump on. Be glad you have good working AC on a 20+ year old vehicle! In saying all of that, I’m also no expert. Cheers Bennie

BTW I have a couple of EA 81's and two T71A 1st revision trannies laying around.

My EA82 just turned 332,000. Got between 29-32 mpg on a trip last month. Starting to smoke though. I'm pulling it in a couple of weeks to put in a younger motor that I have because I just don't trust it anymore for a longer trip. I'm torn because I'll always wonder how far it would have gone.

Do not buy DENSO relay switches off of EBAY, because the two switches that get real hot, put off noxious fumes inside the car.

At this point, I'd finished with all my engine bay paint work and repairs, and I was sick of tripping over the engine and transmission on the floor. Time to get it installed! It's starting to look like a real car again! I immediately ran in to my first oversight. A seasoned FF-1 enthusiast will note that this intake manifold is missing an important hose barb for the heater core. I used a 1400 intake I had lying around because it was one piece and fit right on, but it turns out I can't use it. I started running coolant lines and found this right away. Thankfully the parts car had the intake I wanted, a single piece but FF-1 specific unit, 1300g only. I quickly stripped it down and cleaned it up. My first coolant hose mock up, you can see where I really needed that last hose connection. Of course, I now needed to swap the carb throttle body back to the smaller base FF-1 style, so I took apart 3 carbs to piece together one nicely moving and functioning throttle body. I'm working on the throttle cable linkage now, it's been a challenge because the 1100 and 1300 are completely different and share almost no parts. I didn't take many pictures, but I spent many hours drilling out all the broken front end fasteners on the car, more than 12 by my count. This allowed me to bolt up everything on the front for the first time in possibly 45 years! Look, a real car! I'm stoked, it's really coming together! A recap of what you're looking at here: none of this car's original front sheet metal is present at this point. The hood, fenders, grill, and headlights are from the parts car, the turn signals are straight from Japan (used but extremely nice), and the green valance was from the Seattle trip. The bumper will be a project on its own, but the hood opens and closes with the latch as it should, a huge achievement! The holidays will surely slow my progress, but I'm pleased with how well it's come together at this point. Stay tuned for more!

Update time! I pulled the trigger and made the 4500 mile round trip to get the parts car. I live in Madison, Wisconsin, and the car was just north of Seattle. It is also a '71, but has a 1300 engine (1300G?). It has the window, it has a good subframe, and tons and tons of other small parts I'll surely need. I also picked up an EA71, an EA63, and an EA61 short block. I'm back in business! Picture time: The car is safe at my storage lot, it snowed a bunch while I was gone so I need to get everything re-organized over there. More progress to come!

Thanks for the kind words folks! Still have some catching up to do, enjoy another deluge of photos. Gotta love that factory repair manual! The crank pulley was very very stuck on, it is pretty rusty. I saw a picture of the official Subaru puller tool in the manual, so I fashioned one out of scrap. I had to heat it with a torch a few times, but it finally came off! The pulley is in very rough condition, the side where the belt was touching is very rusted (the belt held moisture against the pulley). Once I finally had the pulley off, it was time to split the case. Nothing too exciting happened, I used small chunks of fuel line to hold the lifters in place, I should have taken a picture of that. The excitement began when I saw the distributor drive gear: Before I saw this, I was starting to wonder if it was a good idea to go this deep into this engine, as parts have been very hard to find. Once I saw this timing gear, I knew I did the right thing, there's no way to fix that without tearing it ALL the way down. When I stripped the accessories off the engine, I did notice that there was no bolt holding the distributor in. This is what happens when you crank the engine over with a loose distributor! Now the panic set in, where the hell would I find an EA61 distributor drive gear? I looked at it closely, then remembered I had a spare EA81 crank in the shop. I went and grabbed the distributor drive off of it, and this is what I found: It's exactly the same. Except it's not destroyed. This feels like blind luck on my part, but I guess I should thank Subaru for using the same timing gear on every OHV engine! More later.

I had number 1 missfire.. I used an led light, you can see it blink, looking closely. Hot to battery, negative to injector wire. (Led polarity matters)Tested with working injector, then number 1, was no blinky Two things.. adding power should not and will not open injector, adding ground would.. but don't, you're shorting ecm. Instead of buying new ecm, solder board where injector wire pin is on it.. They wires all have black sheathing in last plug, easy to find.. Much cheaper, fixed as soon as you melt cold solder joint, slit second. Update it was actually this IC. SOLDER all connections.

Hi tweety do not change the idle jets it sounds as if they are as close to perfect as you will get, If as I suspect it is slightly lean on the prinary 32mm throat then do not change either pilot jets. What you need to do is play with the main jet, Air corrector jet combination this is where everybody stuffs up with carburettor jetting note the following explanation. Idle jet works at idle and up to roughly 1/8 throttle on a weber carb. Main jets this is where the mistakes are made by most people because all the majority of people change are idle jets and main jets. There are also emulsion tubes the ones the mains fit into at the bottom and the air correctors fit into at the top, there are options for these even with the 32 36 carbs though many more with DCOE side draught carbs, Generally with a aftermarket downdraught they will be somewhere close ex factory. Where you will find a difference is when you learn how main jets and air correctors work inj real mlife and it is not like most people assume. Main jets are not all about top end rpm tuning far from it the Top end is a combination of main jets and air correctors and the main jets actually start working from around a quarter throttle or sometimes less the Air correctors tend to work from higher up ijn the rpm range and they work in concert. So when you find a main jet that seems perfect at high rom but is say too rich lower down in the rpm range then what you do is go to a smaller main jet till the lower midrange mixture is correct and that now means the top end will be too lean, That is then fixed by going to a smaller air corrector jet which allows the smaller main jet to supply the correct top end mixture due to the smaller air corrector restricting the air flow into the emulsion tune thus making the top end richer by the restriction of a smaller air corrector. Conversely if too lean then the opposite applies, go to a slightly bigger primary main jet in the 32mm throat that will richen up the main circuit but with more emphasis lower down in the rpm range remembering trhe Air corrector on top of the emulsion tube is there to dial in the top end in concert with the main jet. So when it comes to the main circuit main jets are more effective when changes are needed lower in the rpm range and air correctors are more effective at the top end of the rpm range, Basically the air correction is more effective when more air is moving through the system and that occurrs at higher rpm so the main jet while it works across roughly three quarters of the rpm range is more effective from about one quarter throttle to three quarter throttle than it is at top end the top end is a combination of both air corrector and main jet but the air corrector has a greater effect at higher rpm than the actual main jet. For ideal results they must always be considered as a pair working together with the main jet doing the early heavy lifting and the air corrector doing the heavy lifting higher up the rpm range. In your case I would go up on the primary main jet say 5 at a time to test so if you are running say a 105 main jet in thye primary go to a 110 that will fix the lean issue on lighter to slight acceleration loads in the mid range but probably then end up too rich up top requiring a smaller air corrector,If the air corrector is say a 165 then going down to say a 145 will balance out the change in main jet at higher rpm, A good starting point is one size change in the main and then two sizes in the air corrector. This combination as an example would richen up the engine around one third throttle and the change in air corrector would mean the top end mixture if correct previously will end up the same as it was with the older combination of main jet and air corrector. A change of one size with weber mains is considered as five numerically so 105 to 110 is a change of one jet size, With Air correctors a change of one jet size is considered to be 20 so going from say a 180 down to a 160 is considered a change of one jet size. The only area where you can be caught out with the air correctors is in a very rare situation where the Air jets become too small and that means below fifty numerically because that can then mean there is not enough air flow to properly mix the fuel and air otherwise known as emilsify the mixture which is why we have a tune with holes in it called an emulsion tube. This is how emulsion tunes work they can be the hardest thing to get right if they need changing but will make a massive difference especially onj the DCOE dual barrel side draught carbs they have a series of holes for the air to enter they can and do vary in bothy size and number as well as placement along the tube all of which controls the emulsification of the air and fuel, Then on top of that they can and do also vary in diameter with a smaller diameter emulsion tube meaning it has abigger reservouir of mixed fuel to draw from which can stop the engine suddenly going lean in some situations when placed under sudden hard acceleration and heavy load at the same time, The accelerator pump alone cannot cope in such situations hence the different diameters in emulsion tubes. But as I said generally with a downdraught such as the 32 36 the factory supplied emulsion tunes are close enough to make it work Ok so the focus is more on actual jets and air correctors. If however after getting it running correctly when you open only the primary carb throat and it suddenly bogs down as the secondary throat opens you then need to go through the same process for the seondary throat as for the primary throat jetting wise. So now I have hopefully explained how the system of jets and air correctors interoperate with each other it should allow you to decide exactly at what rpm and load something needs changing and as you have already found out it is lean now you should have a better idea on which combination should give you the result you are looking for. Considerably more detail here, Including a chart showing how the different circuits overlap and work together http://www.datsun2000.com/tech/weber_tuning_methodology.htm

I noticed also that the top of the little chamber that has the check valve must be sealed at the top in order to force the fuel through the squiter orifice, if it is not sealed the fuel just goes over and you get no squirt. The bowl to carb top gasket is the cover for it and I've seen several be the problem on accelerator pump not working .

They are easy to take apart, but I have one that the accelerator pump will not work. I took it apart and found that the check valve seat was severely disfigured. This is located right next to the accel. pump. The accel. pump pushes fuel to a tower right next to it, this tower has a brass weight with a fine taper on it and acts as a check valve. If the seat is trashed, the carb is trashed. It is pressed into the housing and has a hole that is only a couple of thousanths. I see no way to remove it or even find a replacement seat. You may be lucky and have just a torn/worn seal on the accel. pump plunger which is an easy fix. If it's trashed, go to a Weber or buy a rebuilt Hitachi (what I did) Advance Auto Parts sells them for around $300. It hurts the wallet, but worth every penny when you turn the key!