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It’s way past it’s peak (the USMB) due to the face dook trend which has made good men into .... ok I’ll stop there. Many folks who I electronically rubbed elbows with HERE are now gone and have found FB a place they feel comfy. I think it blows. Not the time for debate and there’s good aspects of it as well as the B/S. Just too much B/S. So as far as membership goes I don’t know what we topped off at. Used to see statistics like that on here somewhere. Bottom of the page. But we’ve changed providers and whatnot. Maybe there’ll be a resurgence one day. Who knows. Features like adding pictures sure help. Took me TWENTY YEARS but I finally got out West and met some of the really great folks who have made this board a great place to hang out for over two decades now. The WCSS is a cool event which the USMB members had a lot to do with. Thats a little bit of yappin’ about the USMB. Maybe one one of those guys like Legacy777 will show up and give details.

ITS ALIVE sorry again, computer still not fixed. have been working dibble shifts over Xmas to get some coin to bust it all out. got me hands on gf8 STI running a 98 ra motor with a td05 turbo for cheap as the guy who had it couldnt get it run on all 4. had to take the engine out to check things out and found it had a broken camshaft. fixed that and up for sale shortly to get some more found to finish the brat off. been working on the wiring and have things laid out sort of how it's going to go. decided to do a boostedboys fuel pump setup and we having problems with getting power to starter? so did a jumper and turned her over. Funny noises? that right I had put tape over the intake to stop spoob from getting into the air intake. took that off and turned her over again and she fired into life. pretty quit considering the short streight pipe I'm running. But I'll do my best to get my PC up and running when I sell the STI so I can post updates and video but bloody happy with the start up. Gives me the pump to gets her finished. cheers Doc

All grounds were where they should be, clean and tight. I put in a second used Alt I had and it's charging fine. Battery and brake light off. Happy New Year! Larry

Heres my 1980 Brat with an EA71, and 70000 original miles.

Maybe, just maybe corrosion on a valve stem is not allowing one or more of the valves to close tight. Cranking the engine would have pushed the valves open. Closing them relies on the spring pressure. Or maybe a broken valve spring. A weak spring will close the valve (if it moves freely) when cranking the engine and there will be compression.

Oh, you reminded me - before I put the timing belts on, I use a drill with a socket to spin the oil pump to prime it after a reseal.

We have a page on our website dealing with the headgasket replacement. I have the part numbers listed there: http://superiorsoobie.com/head-gasket-replacement/ GD

I cut holes in the top of the transmission tunnel just like on the EJ car, but the driveshaft rubbed on them under hard acceleration (it was a one-piece shaft, so that could have been part of it). If I were to do it again, I would just have them run straight through the bulkhead under the rear seat, as there's a lot more room for them.

there are a lot of people that don't know the difference, and use the terms interchangeably.. and I agree, fog lights should be yellow. the yellow seems to penetrate better Once upon a time, I had a set of aftermarket lights that had both styles.. fog and driving with a switch to flip from one to the other.. two separate bulbs and reflectors in each housing.

ABS light also on , but I think with minimal research in the archives or just back a page or two , there’s my solution. Can’t tell you guys enough that I am typically a good 10-15 years behind from the current models. Last car I bought to use as a daily was a 1992 in 2007. A 15 year old with around 119k. That car is still here , body not any much worse than back then. This green goblin is already 17 and holding 274k (just turned). Body fairly solid. Original owners , garage kept , receipts up the wazzoo. The not so funny part is he had TWO teenaged sons use this car and it looks great. I have ONE son who as a teenager destroyed TWO Subarus. Life.

It can be repaired in 15 minutes. No one removes the engine. Where did that come from? From what you’ve said so far - plan on replacing all the pulleys and both timing belts. Do not just replace the belt. if there’s oil then reseal the oil pump and replace the cam seal and cam cap oring. Personally I would just do this at the same time because it’s easy cheap and smart. it’s easy - loosen 12mm tensioner bolts and swap the belt. Put a slight amount of tension on the cam pulley to tighten the belt as you tighten the tensioner bolt down get an FSM online for free for any EA82 and ask any questions you might have.

Unrelated. It’ll be the resistance pack used for the fan settings. I don’t know if it’s the same as the older Subaru’s that have it in the air ducting before the AC evaporator. One or more might be broken, or the plug has detached from the resistor pack. Cheers Bennie

Oil coolers are normal on all the early Forester auto's. GD

read the fine print, tho.. NO electronics.. case & battery only.

Mitchy, I believe you're hearing coolant gurgling through the heater core of the HVAC system because of air bubbles. The fix is to raise the front of the car so that the radiator is higher than the heater core, remove the radiator cap, start the car and run it to normal temperature with the hvac set to maximum heat. Then add 50/50 mixed coolant to the rad as trapped air bubbles burp up through the rad cap opening. Continue until no more bubbles can be seen, and no more coolant can be added. Once all of the air has been burped out, you should no longer hear the trickling noise inside the car. I've been there with a past OBW and this solved the issue. Good Luck!

Thanks everyone. Took a while to get access to the block again, and the cleaning tip revealed the VIN. 2003 U.S made, naturally aspirated 2.5.

Ran into a few more minor issues but overall my plan worked exactly how I wanted. First of all, 93 fwd impreza axles DO NOT WORK. they are too long. in a lowered application where the hub would be further out they may work. getting the rear struts together was.. interesting. the coils on the accord springs are too tight to use a normal spring compressor. there she sits. no spacers no crossmember drop and no positive camber. still need to bleed the brakes and sort out the front axles. figured out what combination works i just gotta order a couple more.

pretty much every EA-82 has those cracks between the valves, normal, in a sense, nothing to worry about unless it causes another issue, i've had 3 3rd gen subaru's, they've all had them.

Hi everyone! Im a new member here. I have never been into Subarus, didn't know much about them (except that they are hard to get parts for where i am from) so i have stayed away from them. My wife has always been joking around that when she gets her license she would want a Subaru (she has seen those WRX STIs somewhere and every time someone says Subaru that car comes up on her mind). So few years ago i bought her "a Subaru" as a gag for her birthday. It was a rusted out Subaru Leone 1982 Hatchback. That car has been sitting since then to have a proper rebuild. So two years ago i found this 86 Loyale for 200 Euros for a parts car (Wifes Leone is 2WD so this Loyale was supposed to be a donor for 4WD). As soon as i bought the Loyale we decided to trash that car a little and we had so much fun - so much that i destroyed the clutch. I got some other car projects going and due to lack of time and money to "properly" do those projects i decided to hop up my motivation to change the clutch on the Loyale and do some winter beating, so i dragged Loyale home from my country side place. To change the clutch i decided to take the engine out (didn't even use a cherry picker, just pulled it out with my buddy and our raw strength). Clutch was pretty much gone. So changing the clutch became so much more Engine was gunky so i decided to re-seal it with new gaskets. So i took it to pressure washer first. Also found out that previous owner had messed up ALL threads on headers. I had my friend drill and tap new 8 holes. (I don't have the pic of new holes) but i decided to build new headers. When i opened up the oil pan i noticed that a lot of junk came out. The car also had crazy lifter noise so i decided to replace cam case O rings that were pain to order. Im not so sure about lifters being sealed in their place it silicone, anyways on of the lifters had came a part so i ordered all 8 new lifters and put it all back together. So i got new exedy clutch for Subaru XT 2.7l, i got my flywheel machined 1.6mm. New water pump, new pulleys, new timing belts and tensioners, new cam seals, new crank seals (front and back), new valve cover gaskets, new cam case O rings, new oil pump gaskets. This car is a parts car for my wifes Leone (which im not going to restore least not before 5 years) and THIS Loyale im building is pretty much trashes. Every part of this old Subaru keeps fighting me and more i disassemble the more needs replacing. I am not going to restore this car, its just for having fun (maybe do some ice racing) and crawl offroad around in my country side forest. So why build so much? I don't know! My friends keep giving me a crap about sinking so much time and money into this old Subaru. I got to admit i became huge fan of Subaru engineering and these old cars are awesome. There will be more to come, currently messing around with brakes (brakes are completely shot - front calipers don't move in any directions, caliper pistons are destroyed and couldn't find new ones, rear drum brakes were braking off everywhere i touched them) i got new brakes ordered from Rockauto and it will take some time for them to arrive. Also im missing those clips that hold clutch release bearing to the clutch fork (been waiting 2 months on those clips) so then the engine can go in.

The hose blew before. If you take that into account, ~25% yes and 75% other possible factors lead to it. Likely system was already clogged and the hose was the fuse. If the hose didn't blow and the system was low on refrigerant and all they had to do was add more. 75% yes it's likely overcharged.

Security system for your blinking lights. Find the little reset button under the drivers side dash. 1/8" black button ususlly.

Reposting here as this is where it belongs* Long time lurker. I’ve been building out my ea82 Gl for a a while and I thought I should start a build thread. here it is in Baja Mexico! so here the build so far: -4inch body lift(6inch currently) -ej25dohc -poptop -crustom ifs (I bent one of the original lca) -modded rear seats so the sit flat -projector bulb retrofit/angle eyes -custom aluminium bumper Currently in the middle of building a vlsd rear diff. which requires completely dismantling the vlsd and ea82 diffs, to the point of pressing out the threaded inserts in the spider gears.

You can also buy used OEM remotes in good condition on eBay or Amazon for very little money.

Search Google using the FCC ID code on the back. You can find generic compatible remotes for pretty cheap online. Anything that matches the FCC ID will work. Usually see deals for 2 remotes for $50-$60 or so. GD

Wiring New Relays Basically talkin', you only need three (3) wires in order to get a Relay properly working, to Power a Device (Such like Horn, Halogens, etc...) 1► the Positive input shall be placed in two Spades, the Nº 30 (which is the High Power positive imput, directly from battery - To be Transferred to the Device once the Relay is On) and to the Spade Nº 86 (Positive switchin' signal) and those could have power permanently. 2► The Switching (On / Off) Signal, comes in from the Ground, sent by a Grounded Switch on the Dashboard (or wherever you might want to put the Ground source, such like a High / Low Beams' stick, Horn button, etc...) It goes to Spade Nº 85 3► The Positive Power Output to Power the Device, (Halogens, Horn, etc...) goes out from Spade Nº 87 Of course you could use a Positive signal (+) to switch the Relay on /off instead the Ground, But that's a Four (4) wiring install. In such case, the Relay's ground shall be Permanently connected to Spade Nº 85, and the Direct Positive imput shall goes to Spade Nº 30 ONLY, then you use a Low power positive as Switching signal on Spade Nº 86. Remember: Nº 87 is always the Power Output for the Device. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________ I have a couple of Pictorial Diagrams to Help you in How to Wire New Relays; you can find one of those in my other writeup, named: ~► "How to Wire Dual Electric Fans on a Subaru EA82" This is the Picture: Also I posted another Pictorial Diagram, in my Wife's car Thread: ~► "The KiaStein" This is the Picture: If you find this writeup, Useful, please let me know by hitting the "Like" Button below. I only ask this as a Motivation to continue Sharing my work with you. Kind Regards.