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  1. I swapped the stock fuel pump out for this Deatschwerks pump a few weeks ago. Will keep stock one as a spare. Z wired some plugs on my light bars that plug into the stock fog light plugs. Engine compartment is getting close. Have to mount the PS reservoir and clean up wiring. Got the cam sensors to show up on the Haltech but the engine won't run with any of them connected to the main cam signal, waiting to hear back from them on ideas there. Also have to have super low values in the VE table to run close to 15:1 at idle but we have gotten it to do that now and it runs pretty smooth and smoke free. Got the parts back from paint. B installed bushings in the various rear suspension components. Used Whiteline mainly for ease of assembly. Ordered some R180 inner CV dust shields and another wheel bearing, then should be able to assemble all that. Fuel tank guards installed. Transmission crossmember/skid went in much more easily than we expected. Usually after removing these things and welding them off the car there is some amount of bending and hole slotting required. Middle portion of exhaust not fully installed, might have to come back out to install stock shifter. Waiting on bushings and roll pin for that. Front skid installed. A little bending and slotting was required to get that to bolt up to the bumper but not too much. Front bumper and lights installed. Car is getting really close to driving but there will still be a lot of things to do.
    3 points
  2. I bought a set of the LED headlight bulbs that was deemed directly compatible with my OEM headlight bulbs. Big mistake. My digital dash went haywire and the engine began cutting out and otherwise ran poorly. Then the below dash relay switches were overheating and burning out. Finally, I realized that those LED's were screwing up my car big time, but only after I changed out my distributor, coil, cap and fusible links in a rain storm. Now I am back to the the OEM bulbs, have installed all new relay switches, and keep a handful of spare relay switches to pop in if I have any further problems. 524,000 miles on my 86 gl10 turbo.
    3 points
  3. B assembled the rear suspension on the Impreza. To make the Mustang rear calipers fit the Subaru front rotors I turned the rotors a little thinner, about a millimeter total. Second side I had to run a lot slower than the first. Since the opposite side of the rotor wasn't up against the jaws it was chattering at anything above about 100rpm. Also we only had one banjo bolt so I made another one. Will probably eventually get legit banjo bolts and better caliper mounting bolts but they all work well enough for now. Rear suspension and brakes assembled. ABS sensors and parking brake cables just zip tied up for now. Will eventually remove ABS cables and make brackets to connect parking brake cables. Black stuff running down exhaust is carbon washed out of the engine by excessively rich mixture when we first got the engine running. I cleaned up the wiring in the engine compartment, still some work to do there. Ditto the interior. Ready for the first test drive, just have to lower the car. Been on jackstands for way too long. For some reason the cam signal issue is back. Engine still runs but not as smooth as it has been, so I probably need to call Haltech again. On the plus side we drove the car around the block and everything important seems to work. All three pedals, shifter, and steering seem to do what they should. Didn't notice any tire rubbing or bad noises or vibrations. Didn't leak a drop either.
    2 points
  4. Depends on your driving and where you live. Long trips? High speed? Cold winters, Hot summers? From an owners manual: "Caution: SAE 5W-30 is not recommended for sustained high-speed driving". From the oil chart, 10W-30 will cover you from below zero to 90 plus degrees F. Oils have changed over the years and so has your engine. EA82? An EA82 with high mileage likes thick oil. Don't freak out about the 'high mileage' term. You can take apart an EA82 with 250,000 miles on it and still see the hone marks on the cylinder walls. I use Castrol 50W in summer and 40W in winter. I don't do synthetics for my EA82. I am not in a hot / cold climate. Finding 50W Castrol is becoming difficult. Engine oil is a gut call and has been discussed ad nauseam. If you have to have oil shipped to you, check out 'ROCKAUTO.COM' for conventional oils. Good luck.
    2 points
  5. Silicone is a no-go for gasoline applications. The best material I have found is Nitrile rubber sheets (aka Buna-N, NBR, etc.) and it is approved for gasoline and many other oils and fuels. I laser cut it to make fuel pump diaphragms for mechanical fuel pumps in my older classic cars. You can get plain sheets or Nylon cloth infused sheets if you need extra strength. I've bought from ebay, McMaster-Carr, Amazon and Grainger in the past. Plain Nitrile should be fine for your fuel tank sender gasket.
    1 point
  6. Sounds like it may need to go to the dealer. Was the windshield replaced recently?
    1 point
  7. Moving forward with the reupholster of my 81 GL wagon front seats (only) going to try the Karo Madras 5710 brown plaid from Relicate. Here are some pictures of the fabrics side by side. Fyi if your drivers side seat leans to the passenger side as mine did, caused by pushing on the seat back as you wiggle in, you might have a broken frame near the adjustment mechanism it was a wonder the seat gave any support at all. Oh one more thing to remove the GL headrests you need to take the seat cover off then reach thru the front foam in two places and pull a pin, the head rest will then slide out. There are three rods for hog ring placement, the bottom one is the longest then the middle front has extra curly ends and the back top rod is the shortest one. Construction of the seat is as follows from outside in: Woven plaid material/vinyl sides A cotton or some sort of backing where your rear end sits Plastic but only on the shoulders and back of the seat. Foam molded into the seat springs Steel frame Duplicate pictures are with and without flash
    1 point
  8. Update, orange clock is working perfectly after more than a year
    1 point
  9. SubieGal can update this further, but as of today, the FF-1 is on display at America's Car Museum in Tacoma, Washington! (also known as LeMay's Automotive Museum) https://www.americascarmuseum.org/ https://i.imgur.com/fuAQIxr.jpg The exhibit is called "SHINKA" and is basically a HUGE JDM exhibit with all sorts of Japanese brands being featured. SubieGal has quite a few other cars there too! Sadly, I probably won't get to see the exhibit due to family issues But this is beyond what I could ever have accomplished with the car and I can die happy now The exhibit opens to the public on 3/16/2024 and will supposedly be around awhile if anyone wants to see it on display!!!
    1 point
  10. Went back over every detail and found that there were two teeth missing from the crank sprocket. Replaced and starts right up. Will test drive tomorrow.
    1 point
  11. Nobody click the links in the post above! New member, edited post. Sketchy AF
    1 point
  12. Subaru OEM boots? They’re way better than standard aftermarket. They don’t break in a year. I reboot my Subarus when I get them and never have to do it again even after 100,000 miles. That never happens with aftermarket. if you’re using 90s axles upgrade to 00-04 Outback style axles. the boot material is better, particularly the outer boot, it’s “stiffer” and the outer boot has more convolutions. They have the tone ring on them, just tap it off with a hammer it just sits on the ridge. They can even be left on but I remove them. They’re a direct swap into 90s EJ vehicles. I’ve seen silicon boots for sale but I forget where. Google should find some.
    1 point
  13. Gone are the days of BAP-Geon auto parts stores. Beck-Arnley catalog https://www.beckarnley.com/find-my-part/find-my-part-results.html?type[value]=2&type[label]=Light Duty&year[value]=1996&year[label]=1996&make[value]=13&make[label]=Subaru&model[value]=64&model[label]=Legacy I seem to recall that the CV boot B-A part numbers beginning with 2xx-xxx were silicone. Maybe search fleabay for those(?) Dorman markets silicone cv boots. Pricey at $50 each though.
    1 point
  14. Thanks for the replies. Would be sweet if it worked. Might have to dig around and do more research.
    1 point
  15. It looks like a bolt and nut to keep with a chain for lifting engines, etc. 14mm old gen bolts: suspension: ball joint, cross member. Most are 12 but some engine accessory bracket hold down bolts - like A/C bracket, P/S, Alt are 14mm. bellhousing and head bolts but this isn't one of them.
    1 point
  16. Thanks for the encouragement and advice idosubaru and Moonsens. I'll be pressing forward and doing a lot of digging through the forums I'm sure. Moonsens, I agree, swapping the trans is in the dream, however, I know the trans from my old GL is in rough shape. I'll need to do my research on how rebuildable they are, or if the parts are even available.
    1 point
  17. The Factory Service Manuals that are floating out there have bolt sizes and torque measurements in them. What I would do is match the bolt to the bolt/torque sizes in the guide. You could then use the exploded diagrams in the FSM as a map to show you where a bolt that size could have come off on the areas you actually worked on.
    1 point
  18. just wanted so say you saved another Subaru with this thread! thank you guys after replacing literally everything else in the ignition system, (three starters, ignition switch, ignition coil, tune up, batteries, alternator, grounds) this was the ticket.
    1 point
  19. Lower control arm inner pivot bolt? Can't recall at the moment if stock pivot bolt is 10 mm or 12 mm shank diameter. Strut knuckle bolt maybe?
    1 point
  20. 1 point
  21. The good news is that I can’t see it being a bolt from a major component like a ball joint or hub retainer bolt as they have captive threads, rendering that nut useless. And it’s too short for a suspension arm bolt. I’ve had this many times without issue. Keep the left over bits aside in a labelled container incase you find a missing bolt. While they’re off the vehicle consider the effort as weight reduction. Cheers Bennie
    1 point
  22. Nice work Brucey. That's cool trying things. Keep it up. The guys at Hartsells on University got a kick out of inspecting the legacy I converted to FWD automatic just to do it. You did the hard work but hindsight being 20/20 It seems risky to have an unforgiving data point downstream of the final drive output. I've got a 14 Forester parts car I was wondering if I could swap the trans into an outback....looks like it would work on what you're doing. I ran into a police officer at the local highschool a week or two ago and he said "Dude I saw an XT6 just like yours, look at this picture".....it was mine. Lol.
    1 point
  23. The whole need for ZDDP thing is highly over exaggerated. Unless you are running high pressure valve springs and a radical cam, you'll have no issues with about any oil you throw in an old flat tappet engine. Pick an oil viscosity based on your climate and go drive . I have 7 vehicles with flat tappets including an 87 DL (247K miles) , 87 B2000 (302K) and five 65 Corvairs (all over 150K). I've owned most for over 25 years and pay little attention to anything but viscosity. I run 10W-30 in the mild winters here and 10W-40 in the hot summers. I run 50W in the Corvairs that only get driven in the summer.
    1 point
  24. I think the best I got from EA81 Brumby on highway and mountain runs was 8.5 litres per hundred (twin carb) and a comparison to EA82T Vortex on 98 best was 8.3 , then 99 Forester EJ202 best 7.5 with an average around the 7.7 mark. The EAs are much more fun engines to drive I reckon. Though, may not be fair to the EJ20 as it is too quiet, no induction roar, whisper quiet factory exhaust, I can't use my hearing to gauge gear shift time
    1 point
  25. Is it covered under your insurance policy? That's in a very bad area and good chance it's causing the codes. Splice the broken wires to repair or replace the entire harness, Subaru will have those in stock (i think). Subaru will only replace the entire wiring harness, they will not repair the current harness. At least all the dealers I know won't, maybe there's a few willing to "break the rules".
    1 point
  26. Have to open up the wire harness and repair the wires. If you pull up the FSM you may be able to see what components the harness is going to. What codes do you have?
    1 point
  27. Thanks mate. Got the starting and idle issues sorted it seems. I think the idle mixture was too lean and driving it around hard for a bit may have moved come internal crud. Who knows?! Good news is it’s running well and seems to be returning good fuel economy. Cheers Bennie
    1 point
  28. Well, she's still trundling along nicely. Haven't done anything with the manual swap yet - my vehicular priorities are to get Gertie EJ swapped and certified, and then get a WOF on the green machine again first. She'll be our wedding car next month though so that's exciting! It almost seems a shame to rip her to pieces - such a perfect and original piece of JDM machinery, and the auto box is great with the cruise control for cruising. If this thing had a 4 speed auto and torque converter lockup, it would be perfect.
    1 point
  29. There was one really steep, off camber, rutted hill climb! A Ford Ranger PX3 struggled to get up that, but was a breeze in the Subie. Since that trip I've also thrown in the lift kit...
    1 point
  30. I don’t know either. It’s my understanding it should run but I haven’t investigated it.
    1 point
  31. Grab a TCU from the yard, you can always take it back for credit.
    1 point
  32. The owner has already been told that he made a really bad decision on this one. How can anyone not hear the sound, and feel the engine cutting out, with valves hitting pistons, and keep driving it?!!! He's had 2 GM vehicles and destroyed those too! Slow motion train wreck...
    1 point
  33. I’ll chime in on GD’s behalf. Burn it. Burn it to the ground and get some old school GM gear to drive into the Armageddon. Ok, maybe I lathered that on a bit thick but that’s kind of how I read GD rolling. Cheers Bennie
    1 point
  34. When I finally got a mechanic to check out the Forester today, the P122 stood out, and he said that until that was addressed, transmission diagnosis and work would be ineffective. I remember that I had pulled the sensor off the throttle body and put it back without examining alignment thinking that that was automatic. The mechanic saw the mark on the throttle body and mentioned that. After readjusting the sensor and aligning it properly, the Forester ran like a top.
    1 point
  35. A good Trans Shop will be able to scan the trans a bit deeper than the flashing light. They should be able to identify the fault/s. Once they do that, you can always take that information and do the repair yourself.
    1 point
  36. Are there any engine codes (check engine light)? Not saying this to be mean but for clarity: running well isn’t important - are there any check engine engine lights or codes? Check if the ATF pan is dented. It can cause problems much easier than a dented engine oil pan. You can attempt to extract the AT codes: some newer Subarus like 2005 ish I think but I forget the years, I have a very easy way to read the codes without any scanner. Not sure it applies to 2002 or the classic schizophrenic multiple personality disorder meth smoking strategy Subaru employed here which you can do yourself with no scanner:
    1 point
  37. So far.. almost 1000 miles on it and it's issue free.
    1 point
  38. yes it did help that you for the number
    1 point
  39. Job finished up well today. Must have had some oil and coolant issues with the replacement gasket for the short while it ran (the car smoked from the tailpipe for about 45 minutes at idle when it started up. I also had a hell of a time getting coolant to circulate, the lower radiator hose stayed ice cold for a long time, pesky air bubbles! Glad it's back on the road again! Thank you everyone for your help and knowledge!
    1 point
  40. I’m going this year. Subafreak will be there. And probably a couple old names from this board. The Wicked Big Meet Lots of folks of all ages not just the hotrod would be rally racer kids. Next year I should have my 79 at the event. This year looking like the 94 is going. But you don’t need a vintage or limited production Subaru. Show up in whatever gets you there.
    1 point
  41. This wagon just came my way last year. Only reason I’d sell is more vintage projects.
    1 point
  42. Ok finally got an update on this one! I bit the bullet on buying a carb kit - for a DC 306 hitachi carb. This was a HTK-421 kit. Apparently for the needle and seat for the float valve I’d need the one from the kit HT432 but I didn’t bother and didn’t swap this bit as it wasn’t flooding the bowl. All went well with the rebuild. I’ve had to readjust my idle since tuning. Other thing I need to look into is why it’s hard to start when cold. The old double pump and crank trick doesn’t get it started. Once warmed up she fired up no worries! It runs well without any misfiring which I’m stoked about! Cheers Bennie
    1 point
  43. Update New clutch Ecu swap out of the question at the moment. Plug on harness is a 3 plug all 4x9. very unusual. So would have to trace all wires back to ecu and fit wire in harness. not keen to do So ill look for a gc8 harness for an upgrade so a link will plug in. So took it to dyno to sort fueling out. You see the car doesn't even get that hot at the track Say tops I've seen is 76 degrees manly because of the richness of the fuel. 9.60 So about 10kw down there. So mucked around with it and got a better afr and ended up with 138 at wheels on 9psi. I wanted to turn it up to 12-14 psi but they didn't want to because they didn't new the engine. But I'm fine with that. missed the first round of the summer series here because it was pissing down. Don't do rain, no fun for me and a waste of money. $270 entry plus petrol, NZ 100 octane $3.20 ltr Anyway I need to go see a friend of mine and talk about setting up the wheel alignment to force the car to turn better without losing the rear end. He's a racecar fabricator plus has work in wheel alignment shop setting up racecars. Will start from there and see how it goes I'll work on getting some videos up at some stage for ever one to have a look at. Have a good xmas all
    1 point
  44. This looks mean, get the SI subies together for a wee roady, was there any real boggy or difficult bits etc, or all just mainly gravel roads?
    1 point
  45. Nothing to see here. Just a 94 legacy station wagon with a cargo carrier on the roof and a tow dolly hitched to it shoving a 93 Loyale onto the dolly with a 97 Impreza that's mid pickup truck conversion acting as a wall.
    1 point
  46. Not seeing a lot online when I helped a friend do this, so my .02 for posterity. Disclaimer - If you work on your own car, you're also RESPONSIBLE for what you do, as I'm 100% NOT RESPONSIBLE for you. Be smart and safe! - Started with an '03 Legacy wagon. The 'Special Edition' model that was actually the standard for the '03 MY, for the Sedan and Wagon - Cars101.com. This should apply to any '00-'04 model and as far as I've seen the sedan uses the same suspension setup. - I spent some time trying to discern if the strut body or the spring or both raised the REAR of the Outback/OB - along w/the sub-frame spacers. The online Subaru parts catalogs were no help as they showed the same part numbers for the strut AND spring for "L" and "OB", which was confusing. Not sure what - if anything - I was doing wrong. But I did note that KYB sold different part numbers for the L and OB strut. Here's a comparison of the the 'L' on the left and 'OB' on the right. Looks like it's the 'strut' that provides the lift - not the spring - although the OB is heavier, so maybe the springs are stiffer? - Originally thought about adding spacers to the OB front and rear struts/shocks, but the type the owner bought required spring compressors. ---------------------------------------- - Ended up with the OB struts front and rear - for now. May add the spacers later. - Owner bought some OB 'quick struts' for the Front, which I had my concerns as most of the aftermarket options are not high-quality. But KYB didn't make a set for the front or rear. - I grabbed a set of used OB Rear struts from the local yard. ---------------------------------------- - Installing the front struts is an easy process - just remember to mark the head of the top bolt's (at the hub/knuckle) orientation to keep the alignment (camber at least) close. ---Sidenote: Don't bother removing the brake lines on the older Subarus ('99 and older). Pull the retaining clip (note how it attaches!), dremel or hacksaw the bracket on the outer edge, bend it out of the way, remove the brake line, install new strut, install the line, realign the bracket, and pull the line's hose fitting into the bracket toinstall the clip. - The rears were more of a challenge, mainly because it can be a 2-person job to jack up the rear and align the bottom bolt at the same time. - A couple different ways to do it after installing the top and screwing on the nuts: -Jack up the knuckle just outside of the mount point, which worked for us. -Use the car's scissor jack between the car's body and subframe to spread it up and down at the same time. We didn't try this but worked for others. CAREFUL as the scissor jack could slip! -Torque everything down - look up specs online. Edit: With the 215/65R16 General Grabber tires installed. They are ~ 1/2" taller than the stock OB 225/60R16 tire. ---------------------------------------- For Tires, owner is looking at an AT tread - likely a Yokohama G015 or the ubiquitous (at least on Subarus) Falken Wildpeak. Looks like a 215/65R16 will fit best and it has the most tire options, but could go to either a 225/65R16 or even a 215/70R16, if they can find an AT tire in those size. But those do make a tight fit on the rear fenders. Spare tire- I brought along a 225/60R16 to use as a spare - IT DOESN'T FIT in the Legacy's rear tire well, and I'm guessing that means the OB must have a temporary spare, too. Kinda sucks.
    1 point
  47. Found a lot of things damaged during tear down. Timing belt was stretched & cracked. TB tensioner was leaking fluid. Both cyl heads had bent exhaust valves - timing marks hadn't been lined up correctly to fudge the stretched belt problem I suppose. All pistons had carboned up oil control rings and stuck 2nd rings. #4 piston skirt was collapsed by .002" and badly scored. #4 rod brg had spalled. All main brgs were badly speckled from dirty oil. Driver side cam had welded metal to center aluminum cam journal ruining both head and cam. This caused by lack of oil AND the guy kept driving with valve and piston hitting, probably flexing the cam beyond normal. A real mess. This is your engine. This is your engine on unchanged oil. ANY QUESTIONS? https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/6250/7ZFYjA.jpg
    0 points
  48. Pulled the VVT solenoid plugs today. It started up and ran, but good knock. Drained the oil and cut the filter open, it was full of metal debris. Looks like a engine change. So it goes. I don't know how is sounded so good when they first started it up. That's life.
    0 points
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