subarubrat

Interested in chrome trim pieces for the upper Left and Right corners of the windshield!

BRAVO, First class work!

Grab the larger soda blasting kit from Harbor Freight, it will let you clean up the block/heads to look like they did the day the car was sold.

Nice! I bet it climbs like a monkey in a tree! I always liked the Cruisemaster, their best looking effort. Yep, superchargers! I am using a twin Vortech's with the cylinder head mount and direct drive, no friggin belts!

I cannot wait to see the end result of this build, should handle like a cat on carpet!

Plenty of room up front for the superchargers, intercooler, radiator and oil cooler!

A bit closer look.

The engine is in! It is far from complete and the big work lies ahead but it is a huge step. The front cross member had to be notched about 2 inches and the oil pan pretty much matches the contour of the bottom of the cross member. I am linking the two halves together and connecting the cross member to the firewall and front radiator support to stiffen the front end for the increased power. The bottom of the oil pan is the same as the frame rails so no problem there, the motor mounts, headers, and intake all clear and the hood closes nicely with over an inch of clearance to the hood fire blanket. The trans tunnel will need to be enlarged and that is next, then once the trans is in I will tackle the rear end suspension and driveline.

codswallop them if they can't take a joke

On my 82 I have the following combo: 30 off the heads and port/polish EA82 SPFI pistons Delta torque grind cam EA82 intake manifold Weber carb New valves / rod + main bearings Emissions delete / EGR / aux air etc. Felpro permatorque head gaskets / OEM gaskets elsewhere There is a little more info if you look through the thread about my Brat below. My motor is an 82 solid lifter motor. It outputs right at about 110Hp and everything clears internally, you will need 93 octane, you will want to run traditional copper core plugs with standard gap, the intake manifold will need to be ported to match the head alignment and the bolt holes will need to be slotted slightly, and you will need to manage the timing and advance curve to get the most from it. I should also say if you are building a solid lifter motor be sure to find a hydro motor cam and get that ground instead of your original solid lifter cam for proper geometry. And if you want to really port the heads (which have the most awkward flow ever) you will need to use extrusion honing which is where they pump a goo full of abrasive through the passageways to enlarge them, and then finish with traditional intake manifold to intake port matching by hand as well as the valve pocket. Now my question is are you talking about SPFI pistons or using SPFI (Single Port Fuel Injection) in place of the carburetor? If you are talking about the SPFI pistons, then yes they will work with the specific combination I listed. If your talking about using SPFI in place of a carb, I don't know I never tried. SPFI has been proven to work great on relatively stock motors but I don't know if it has been tried on a more aggressive build and how it behaved. If I was going EFI on a build like this I would go haltech or mega so it could be easily tuned, I chose to stick with a carb to keep it period correct so the problem never came up. And to quote General Disorder from a few years back he said; "Of course - all of this will cost more than doing an EJ22 swap - which is 135 HP without changing anything on the engine. And a frankenmotor (EJ25 with EJ22 heads) is about 180 HP. You'll never come close to the performance-per-dollar that you will find in the EJ's with a modified EA."

Posting high res pics here seems pretty much impossible now, I will post updates here, if you want to see pics check out the FB XT group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/SUBARUXT/ The engine and trans are out and the measurements look good for the new engine, some crossmember mods will be needed.

After a month of idiocy and incompetent trucking companies the thing was finally delivered! It ran great and I drove it a few miles before starting the tear down. The previous owner reported he had overheating issues and the cause was pretty obvious, the radiator inlet was cracked wide open. The engine is ready to come out, I had a delay when I went to my hangar and found that my engine hoist had been borrowed without anyone telling me so I had to get one from my neighbor. So sometime this coming week I should have the driveline out and ready to get the LSA in place and start figuring out what my front crossmember will look like, and if I will have to modify the trans tunnel.

True, but the ECU is easily open source tuned and with minor changes you can use an STi ECU and have low hanging fruit ECU tuning.

First off, great price! They are selling for more than that in my area. The rear window is fixed, below is a pass-through hatch that can fold down onto the rear seat when it is folded down, handy for hauling 2x4s, ladders, etc. There isn't anything special about the Baja problem wise, my best advice is to run it hard and get it up to temp then pull over and look for problems like leaks, steam, smells etc. Check the oil and water for any contamination, metal flake, sludge etc. Are you leaving it stock or wanting to modify it? The 2.5/auto combo isn't a jaw dropper but it is OK for stock, if your considering a lift and bigger tires I would strongly suggest buying a turbo version with auto.

I would love to see the end result, 242Hp and 220Tq would make for a quick car!