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I think I'll stick with bolts , my welding isn't that good.

My sincere thanks to all of you. I followed all your suggestions and it ended up being the relay. What a nightmare to get access to! Ended up getting it out eventually and replaced it, and success, the blower fan is now working again! Thank you again everyone.

G’day @libertyherb123! Checked the fuses under the bonnet? There might be some over near the battery (from memory) in a black box. Under the lid will tell you what fuse and relay is responsible for what. Did the fan ever work for you? Silly question but maybe this car is new to you and you’re checking through your list of issues to fix… Salada mate! Bennie

Measure the shocks from the spring perch to the lower mount bolt. There’s a difference between the 2wd and 4wd rear shock units. Your issue may not be a spring - it could be a 4wd shock that’s been installed somewhere along the way. Cheers Bennie

If it’s not going about 10 then weld the moustache bar mounts to the chassis rails. Same for the front diff mount. Fab up a bracket or even use two tabs that pick up the one bolt front mount above the diff. Tip: the hole on one side is larger than the other. 4wd swing arms will swap right in. Bit of a bastard if you don’t want to remove the three retainer bolts on the outer arm. These will mess with toe in and camber. If our bush not necessary to stress about them. Cheers Bennie

Electronic Specialties 180 LOADpro Dynamic Test Leads

Thanks I'm just prepping the 2WD before I move it to the bush camp. A couple of holes cut in the body where the back seat used to be reveals the captured nuts of the crossmember so I can put some heat on them before I try to remove them. The other crossmember nuts were well exposed from the rust in that area. If subaru leaked as much oil at the back as they do at the front they would last forever

Video from our trip to Arkansas last fall with slammo and travelvw.

You really need to figure out where you’re losing power. Did you actually test the fuses? Are you getting power to the fuses? If you’re getting power to the fuses, are you power out of the fuse box? If so, are you getting power to the switch? Is power coming out of the switch? Check the various connectors, especially the ground.

Trailing arms and brakes are all different. You could probably use the 4WD trailing arms on the 2WD Crossmember, and then just weld on the 2 tabs for the forward diff mount. 2 bolts on either side for the mustache bar mounts. Yes, there are dimples in the right spot. I'm sure the factory 4WD cars had a captive nut there. But there seemed to be a decent amount of steel, so I tapped them and bolted it in. Probably not correct....but I beat the hell out of that car for many years (ice racing and autocrossing, as well as pizza delivery, daily driving, and even some offroading later in it's life), and had zero issues with that.

Thanks, I was looking at the 2WD frame where the Differential cross member ( mustache bar) bolts on. There appears to be two dimples rather close together one is an outty and the other an inny. Could one of these be the position of that bolt (is it one bolt that holds it?) . Is there enough meat there to tap or do you have to bolt right though to the inner deck. There will be no shifting between Lo Hi or 2WD to 4WD so that control linkage is not required. Max speed is about 10 . I was looking at the crossmember of the 2WD and it looks pretty good. The one in the donor car I had to make up with help from a friend with a pipe bender to replace the rusted out one that was is there. It works for the low speed application but one wheels canted out a bit. Is the only difference the rear differential carrier or are the swing arms different

if you go to live data, just select complete set and scroll down to the O2 sensor in question. You should see the voltage fluctuate. The car has to warm up and the system in closed loop Hitting enter will graph that function. You will see something resembling a square wave. Don't remember the normal values. Listed in the DTC code section of manual. again, no cel sb no worries O.

Been done many times. Swap the whole rear suspension in. I drilled and tapped into the frame rails for the rear diff rear crossmember. Carrier bearing mount for the driveshaft will need to be fabricated. I just bent a couple pieces of flat stock, bolted them through the tunnel. It was pretty poorly done, but I was young and dumb, and it worked. I later had a 1 piece shaft made. Everything else pretty much bolts in. Shift linkage, axles, clutch. Center console is different between a Loyale and GL, so it might not look pretty unless you swap the entire console. But it'll work. That car was EJ22 swapped at the same time, and probably lasted another 75k miles, with multiple different drivetrain combinations, until at least 3 owners after me was drunk and went straight through a "T" intersection at 60+mph. Hit hard enough to kink the roof, but the drivetrain was fine.

1991 Loyale wagon FWD left rear coil spring rides low about 1 1/2 inches, unloaded. Right side is ok. I believe that using spacers is the wrong thing to do in general. It will only put more strain on the spring coil. However, I only do city driving now. Not sure how to select the correct replacement spring. Would guess that replacing both L & R at the same time is correct. Will go to my local Pick Your Wallet . . . . I mean Pick Your Part in Sun Valley CA.

Some slow progress: Cleaned and renewed the foam on the flaps; cleaned the debris out of the fan squirrel cage. Switched to 1/2" - 90 degree copper connectors to connect the old brass heater pipes to the new aluminum heater core. The reason for this is that the brass pipe is thinner than regular plumbing pipe and where it needs to be cut is not very round due to the factory bends - to solder, the brass needs to be a tight fit to the copper, so it takes a little effort with a proper sized socket to reshape the brass. Photos: Foam tape used for the heater flaps. Foam tape on flaps. Old heater pipes marked for lining up with plastic supports prior to cutting. Squirrel cage before cleaning. 1/2" copper 90 degree joints soldered to old cut brass pipes. New aluminum heater core set up to braze to the copper connected old pipes. This is the brazing rod I am trying to use: https://parts.rheem.com/product/RPD-SW-ALCU5-5 First attempt not successful (rod not flowing)! Am trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong - any hvac people out there???

For my wife's 2011 Outback, I recently put in new CV axles (from Subaru), new sway bar bushings (Subaru), new lower control arms (aftermarket, I forget the brand), new sway bar end links (Moog), and new strut assemblies (KYB Strut-Plus). Now the car sits about 2"-3" high in the front. (And before you ask, yes I did properly torque the control arm bushings at ride height). What do you think could be causing it? ChatGPT says that the most likely culprit is the strut assemblies, even though these assemblies are made specifically for this vehicle. ChatGPT also says that a lot of people have reported this problem when using the KYB products in Outbacks. Has anybody else heard of this happening? Aren't KYB supposed to be a good product? On the other hand, they were less than $150 no Amazon, and I'm seeing that most of the better strut assemblies are more than $300ea. What other strut assemblies are good, and what would you do in this situation? Do you agree that the KYB strut assemblies that I installed are likely the problem?

Lots of power. 25-27 MPG. TEMP GAUGE inoperative. Used old exhaust Manifold, Intake air manifold. Old engine belt pully lower drivers side failed at 186000 miles. engine locked up. Installed new front axles, brake drums, disks, struts, catalytic converter.

Thanks Moosens. Sorry but that wasn't me on Facebook. I'm in Australia so it's a Subaru Liberty down here. Unfortunately it doesn't run on 1,2,3 or 4 setting. I've checked the two 15A fuses under the dash. But I'm not sure where to look next.

Keep in mind I’m talking Loyale series and older. I probably have the parts from one of my parts cars but it’s one of those items I haven’t had to deal with yet. And now it looks like I’m stepping aside from the first gen Legacy for a while. Did you also post on FB ? I think I replied there. I’m in CT and will be blowing out decades of parts. My dedication is 1970s, first gen Legacy, and 2002-04 Legacy only. And I hand a few of the first gen Legs. Getting the boxes out these days and really hoping to unload it all or large lots for cheap. Cheers!

Pretty sure these also still have a ballast resistor I believe it is called. I’ll try to find the location when I get home. But on the older models it’s down there at the blower fan box. The older ones have a ceramic type of application over three of the four resistor wires and the fourth is a straight load. That fourth one or your number four on your dashboard switch will always operate as I recall.

I agree 100%. Still haven’t started it. My daughter’s car, so I’m not in a big hurry.

Awesome, thank you. I have a scanner with a live data function, I just don't really know how to use it except to check for dtcs

This job looks horrendous, but it is not that bad. I have done three of them; here are many pictures, but not much write up on the process. https://permies.com/t/197844/Black-Car Like most jobs, getting started can be the hardest part.

Hi everyone. My blower fan isn't working on any speed setting. I have confirmed the blower fan itself is working by hooking it up directly to the battery. I have checked the two 15A fuses under the dash. Are there any other fuses or things I should check before I try and replace the relay?