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  2. can you speak to any mods you had to do to get them to fit? (clearancing, widened bolt holes, shimming, spring fittment, etc...) How does the location of the spring perch differ from the stock height?
  3. Thanks everyone for your thoughts and knowledge. GD, I know parts support for these vehicles is dwindling, but I feel their uniqueness is part of why they're so cool and why I'm inspired to keep mine. The car is a bit of a hobby for me, not so much something I rely on for a living. ferp420, that is interesting about the 300zx and superbeetle, thanks for the info. I do believe the Sachs numbers I listed are for 4wd unless I'm mistaken. I currently have Ford Tempo springs in my car (with an ej22) and they are a little too stiff for wheeling, but great for street use. I'm going back to stock for the flex and comfort. I wouldn't be opposed to slightly higher damping rates, though. I hope this thread can lead to a discussion (maybe inspiring other threads of the future!) for alternative parts that could keep our cars going, just like conversation on the 4runner struts from Loyale 2.7 Turbo. I'll probably just get the Sachs parts if nothing else bubbles to the surface, but let's kick it off with this: I know that the Ford Transit Connects use the same style strut. There are two generations: 2010-2013 and 2014-present. I have access to the latter. I'll take some measurements and compare some numbers and post back here.
  4. Today
  5. Should have mentioned, the vibe-free driving with missing rear axles was back when it was an open diff, I've got the Torq locker installed in my wagon now Jonno Not sure how it would go with 1 axle missing I imagine it would be ratcheting constantly. Might have to take both axle out and I never could get them in or out without unbolting the bottom of the shock absorber and the 3 bolts to the torsion spring, let the control arm sag as far down as it could possibly go to get enough room to swing the axle in. Not fun on the side of a dirt track. Not keen on grinding my stub axles down either Rather fix the driveline angles so it's all working as it should be, thinking of a way I might be able to slot the diff hanger bracket for adjustable pinion angle...or an offset hanger bushing maybe?
  6. and don't put coolant in until sorted, unless you need anti freeze . By putting coolant in straight away allows Murphy to tap you on your shoulder
  7. perfect opportunity to do a CIG diff Sam. One rear axle out to drive highway, slip it back in for off roading. while you contemplate the regular two piecer, scour your scrappies and hoarders for the last rear wheel drive Mazda 626 of about 1978 to 1982. their two piece tailshaft is no good, but the cross member, with some work, will take L Series center bearing and bolts so nice and neat to the flats of the floor of Brumby (so assume wagon the same) so all you see is a factory looking cross member and the bolts go through floor to brackets of choice on the top side. No welding to body to burn insulation and carpet. Both of my single piece tailshafts made for Crossbred give woes. I never tried removing an axle to see what happened. - probably not good for my LSD . Oh, migh be an LSD for sale in Gippsland coming up if interested
  8. The official diagnosis for the second block is a #2 spun rod bearing and seized main bearings. The tech said he could spin the engine, but barely. Still waiting on instructions from SOA on how to proceed for the third block. I asked for a FB25D but they said no haha.
  9. Yesterday
  10. While you're there, swap out the metal oil inlet pipe for a braided steel one. Those lines eventually crack near the joints if you fiddle with them to swap turbos.
  11. superbeetle front struts work on the front of the ea82 they might be easyer to find there not as strong though you can use ford tempo springs on the stock ea82 strut if you just want stiffer or some spring lift if you dont want to lift it and just have stiffer spring cut a coil off ive used nissan 300zx front struts on the rear of my loyale and they not ony have more traval but a larger shaft so there alot stonger than ones made for the ea82 i want to say there the same ride hight as the stock fwd rear struts but im not 100% sure
  12. Alright, I just finished pulling the car apart. The turbo is PRISTINE. No residue, no shaft slop, nothing. There is oil all over the turbo oil drain hose and the gasket for the metal hose barb, where it bolts to the bottom of the turbo doesn't look very good. So I'm going to replace that gasket and others while I have it out. I will also replace the small rubber oil drain hose, and look into deleting the AOS the previous owner installed. Currently we're working under the hypothesis that the PCV system over pressurized and blew the excess pressure out that drain line, since it's the path of least resistance.
  13. Not in this case - the gap is a little too great, so I need a thicker shim. I'm doing the other head today, so I'll see what the extent of the problem is.
  14. Good question - I’d rather walk 50 miles barefoot while brushing teeth than pulling those in a yard. The H6 shims I’ve done have always needed reduced, not increased. So I just do it the easy way and grind down the backsides to gain the clearance instead of doing that baffling shim matching voodoo.
  15. Usual culprits are front diff or front axle. If you mimic the same conditions that cause the noise but do it while 1. Going straight 2. Turning left and 3. Turning right 4. Uphill, are there any differences? A free test, or waste of time, would be to swap both front axles left to right. This reverses the loading and will change the noise if it’s axle related. But if they’re old and may need new grease or boots this might not be a total waste of time. Is either axle a non OEM replacement? Those are highly problematic when new and with age. Or They can also just need grease - the grease gets old and will just pour out like liquid. Cleaning and regreasing can quiet them up Change diff fluid and look for any signs of metallic particles or chunks in it. Driveshaft ujoints or carrier bearing and potentials but I’d expect
  16. the more owners soobs go thru, the more likely some fluid has been confused, so, wait until the diff fluid gets changed. Walmart has a synth-blend GL-5 folks seem to feel is a good value. And you get to examine the drain lug magnet for for excessive particles or, *gulp*, pieces.
  17. Is there an affordable (the Subaru tool lists for about $1100) approach to depressing the lifters for shim removal? Otherwise I can't see getting these things in the yard without taking an entire engine - it's just not practical to disassemble the timing cover in order to remove the cams - or even the heads.
  18. Hey everyone. So I recently bough a new daily, its a 96 legacy 2.5gt with a 4aet and 120k miles. Had some wiring issues that I was able to sort out, but I've encountered a new problem. When driving above 30 MPH if i let off the accelerator, there is a high pitched whine noise. As soon as i press on the pedal even a little bit it goes away, and it changes with speed. I'm trying to hold out hope that I don't need a new trans. but it seems like that might be in the future for the car. I did an ATF change not flush change, and plan on draining and filling the front diff fluid although when i checked the fluid it looked good. My next areas of concern are the center bearing which I have a replacement for. From what I've read there's a potential it could be the gear lash, but i was unable to find how to adjust that in the service manual I have so im basically at a dead end. Anyone have any ideas besides find a wrecked car with a trans?
  19. Well, small update. She had the fluid changed at a local-to-her independent shop that she frequents, she brought in Subaru CVTF A few days later, she was driving, and noticed a loss of power on the highway, and when she pulled over, the engine had stalled. She had to navigate across a lane of traffic and an entrance ramp, so she's not sure if it stalled on the move, or when she stopped (like a stuck torque converter). But, after cycling the key, it started back up, and drove normally. My dad read the codes later that day, and found P0700 (AT abnormal) and P0841 again. She's visiting me again this week. First thing I found out, none of my scan tools will read the live data for that sensor. I have a Carista ELM327 bluetooth adapter that I use with my phone, I have a couple basic apps, but ActiveOBD is a Subaru specific one, with which I can read torque converter lockup, AWD transfer, transmission temp and more. I also have an Innova 3170RS, and FreeSSM. So, then I was left with the options to buy a better tool to test it. Pay the dealership to test it. Or, just throw the $150 sensor in. The local dealership had it on the shelf, and said they use them in the shop about once a month. If it were my car, and only driven locally, I'd drive it and wait for symptoms to worsen. But it's my mom's, and she drives all over the state, a breakdown in the middle of nowhere would be far more costly. So, I did what I hate to do, and loaded up the parts cannon. Yesterday I put 5 more quarts of Subaru CVT fluid in (what came out was still pretty brown) and the secondary pressure sensor. With such intermittent symptoms, only time will tell if that was the chicken or the egg. I drove it to work today, and it's showing it's age. Not sure what the future is for this car, it seems like a pretty nice car, but with a salvage title, considerable oil consumption, and a failing CVT, it's probably not worth much, and not worth fixing.
  20. I'm currently investigating weird driveline vibrations in my resto'd wagon, it has the L series 5 speed D/R with a custom single piece tailshaft to the L series rear diff. The main vibe I'm chasing is the one that appears in the rear at highway speeds, around 100 km/h (60mph) and above it gets worse and worse the faster I go. It goes away if I take a rear axle out and the tailshaft no longer spins. Super frustrating because I want to do some longer camping trips but feel like I can't because of this. I got myself a digital angle finder yesterday and tried measuring the driveline angles of the front and rear uni joints on the tailshaft. Has anyone else gone through this process? I get different results measuring off of the uni joints (tailshaft installed) compared to measuring directly off of the diff/gearbox with the tailshaft out. In any case there appears to be a difference of 6 degrees between the gearbox output and rear diff input, making the operating angle of the rear uni joint 3.6 degrees approx which is no good. Front is not as bad, around 2 degrees. The gearbox output is pointing down fairly steeply. The front of the rear diff is more flat, needs to come up to match the box. I think I'm only having this issue since I'm running the single piece shaft, most other people AFAIK are using the 2 piece shaft which I think would absorb more of this difference in angles and not vibrate at high speed. Having thought long and hard about going to the 2 piece, I decided to try and fix the issue with the single piece, don't want to pull up my carpet and sound insulation to weld or drill into the floor pan. This car is my daily driver. My plan for the fix so far is to slightly shorten the lift blocks that the torsion bar/tube is mounted to and extend/shim the blocks that the moustache bar is mounted to in order to angle the diff some more. Watch this space for results. Changing the gearbox angle is a no-go; shfiter mech binds up before I get even 1 degree of adjustment. Interested to know if anyone else has run into this issue and if/how they rectified it.
  21. Poop. I've got a couple of intakes whose clearance is a little greater than spec. I was hoping for an easy interchange to solve it without adding a lot of time and hassle. There's an EZ30 (still) in the junkyard. That might be my only hope.
  22. No they use the larger one's only used on the 2002 WRX EJ205 (one year only). After the '02 model year the EJ205 went to shim-less buckets: https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2002_Legacy-30L-AT-4WD-Outback-Wagon/Shim-Valve-T=229-T=230/49225351/13218AE790.html Click on the "what this fits" tab. Sadly the cam follower is specific to only the EZ30 and so it does not appear it can be upgraded to the shim-less bucket like the early EJ205. GD
  23. Last week
  24. These vehicles are an orphaned, dead product. Your options are searching for new old stock, finding used parts, or modification to use parts from newer cars like the Legacy platform - which can be done but if you have to pay someone to do it for you it's a waste of money. Just buy a Legacy. They are dirt cheap for the 90's models which are also going to be unsupported and orphaned in the next few years and mostly already are in terms of cosmetic parts. Most mechanical stuff is still easily obtainable though. OTOH I can buy virtually every part for my 80's GM's. Lots of reproduction and tons of options. The choice is easy for me. GD
  25. Dual Range Forester 👍 any recent Updates?
  26. That's one cool truck! Well done
  27. Usually almost nothing on a good engine. And the name is HIGHLY misleading. They are ABSOLUTELY NOT "Air/Oil Separators" - they are "Air/Liquid Separators" and the distinction is very relevant since engines produce large amounts of condensation during warm up. This is generally directed into the cylinders and burnt by the stock breather system. In an AOS it is saved and mixed with the normal small amount of oil vapor to produce a nasty concoction of milkshake-esque sludge that coats and restricts the normal operation of the PCV and breather system. It is honestly a horrible idea for a street vehicle. Catch cans and AOSs are RACE CAR parts. They can serve a function in a racing environment to solve specific problems related to ulta-high performance engines. These are engines that see intermittent use and have highly accelerated maintenance requirements - part of which is to clean and service these accessory systems to prevent clogging and empty collection vessels, etc. These are NOT appropriate for street use. GD
  28. Thanks @Numbchux and @el_freddo!! Great ideas. I think I have 2 sensor in the water Crossover pipe...I was just wondering what were they for. This afternoon will look for the easyer way with the stufff I have at my shop. Saludos! Rafa
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