Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. idosubaru

    Where to source l series axles

    same here, where i haven't seen an old gen in a yard in 10+ years due to rust - still, a social media or forum post putting a good price on an OEM axle: "$75 for good OEM axle" post title might motivate someone.
  3. it's easier to fix than it seems. i've fixed that same scenario before - recent engine/trans work and that access plate is bent/loose. loosen the two lower 14mm engine mount nuts and lift the engine a little bit and see if you can get enough clearance to access the bolt heads without doing the whole radiator hoses, exhaust, etc. maybe drop the front exhaust headers too if you need another inch or so. also 14mm. rust issues being typically far better out there, this actually could be really easy and take less than 15 minutes with a good jack and tools.
  4. scalman

    outback 2005 , 3.0 VDC 180kw project

    measured 5cm lift but axles looks like they dont have any angle at all still. what could be done in front if remove bumper or cut it or make something custom. some fun in soft sand, if wheels spinning too much instantly it digs down making track harder and harder everytime. in the end i dig so much there that couldnt go up anymore, and when i started there it was easy to go up there 2 wheels in air VDC still gave me enough torque so i could drive up
  5. Today
  6. Hey where did you find your brat replacement lock cylinder if you don't mind me asking? 

  7. Wannabebrat

    New brat owner needs help!

    So update time! I finally received the new switch....I ordered the one with the wire harness attached from parts geek....and of course it didn't fit. After waiting for the part and time to work on it I was a little frustrated. I started messing with the old switch and it appears that a previous owner either used the switch wiring that was original and just stuck it in the new housing, or it just happens to fit, either way I got the switch in the original housing that was left there hollow. My other brat has a torn up switch where someone tried to steal it at some point and it starts and runs fine (with a screw driver) so I compared it to the 85 with the start problem. The only difference I could find is a small connecter in the switch housing with a blue and yellow wire that run to a green connecter. After repairing the switch nothing...still wouldn't start, after unplugging the green connect so it matched the 86 that runs, boom fired right up. So my question is...what is this? Do I need it? Fuel pump only seems to run when starting and running the car, and fpcu seems to be working fine so what I'm I messing? I have included pictures. Also, on the switch...is there somewhere its possible to find a lock cylinder replacement or something aftermarket that would work...or could I possible rob the one from the ea82 switch I have? Thought I found a couple on ebay but something is weird because it won't let me purchase them. But right now I have 2 cars that run off screw drivers so it would be to get them back to keys without spending a couple hundred bucks a piece. Replacing all the brakes now....got everything down to the axels...just waiting on parts to finish. With any luck I will be driving a brat this weekend!!!! https://photos.app.goo.gl/8xEYd3XWgXVoBr8w6
  8. Wannabebrat

    New brat owner needs help!

    So update time Perfect thank you!
  9. Wannabebrat

    New brat owner needs help!

    Awesome thanks for the tips!
  10. bratman2

    highest mileage?

    You all brought this old thread back up. My post was on the first page and my Brat is still going, mid 240k.
  11. Naked Buell

    EA81 oil pump replacement

    Honestly, unless u found someone who had one in good shape u would be better doing an ej swap. I know, I know, but parts and power and fuel injection, better to save for that up grade. Without an oil pump the motor is obsolete. That is what i had to face myself. My 85 Brat has an 2.2T.
  12. OK well that was easy to diagnose-- the bottom cover over the flexplate/torque converter has come loose and is rattling. As I recall that cover was bent/damaged when the engine was changed and the bolts probably weren't tightened sufficiently. Fixing it is another matter since the bolts are inaccessible behind the crossmember. At least it's nothing serious, just bothersome.
  13. The engine was changed --- Are all the bellhousing bolts still tight? Automatic? Torque converter bolts tight?
  14. Yesterday
  15. any chance you could use a mechanic's stethoscope or even a dowel rod or long screwdriver to the ear to pin-down the location better? my first gut-feelings were serpentine belt idler/tensioner bearings, or possibly cracked flexplate.
  16. Grennick

    Hello From WI!

    Sounds like a nice Forester. Share some pics when you can.
  17. el_freddo

    Front strut

    I can confirm what @ferp420 is saying about rear strut length - the 2wd unit is longer than the 4wd unit. As ferp said, this is due to the 4wd unit needing to clear the CV joint of the rear shaft. The 2wd unit has the lower strut/shock mount directly behind the rear wheel axle. As for adjustable struts, the came out on series 1 of the L series, and we’re dropped for fixed height struts on the series 2 - but they are interchangeable. Cheers Bennie
  18. el_freddo

    Where to source l series axles

    Problem is that the Aussie market is a BIG place and freight isn’t cheap over long distances. We don’t see the L series in yards anymore, even the Gen1 Liberty/Legacy is had to find. @ferp420 - 25 spline diff stubs are also found on the manual NA MPFI EA82. The auto versions is still 23 spline. Cheers Bennie
  19. el_freddo

    Spfi brat help

    Try the factory L series unit or rotate the thermostat housing 180*, make an elbow piece to marry to the factory hose and use a small piece of hose for the gap between the adaptor piece and the thermostat housing. The factory L series upper hose would be way easier though! Cheers Bennie
  20. Hey all, been a long, LONG time since I've been on this forum... nearly 5 years, in fact! I still have the B4 RSK; it's waiting patiently in storage for 1) the corona virus to pass and 2) for me to get a job :-( But one other thing I've acquired in the last year that I thought you all would particularly enjoy is this ludicrous thing... ... it's a Ford Spectron! This is the picture I took the day I got it, before cleaning it up a bit. It had Nissan wheels on it, either from a U13 Bluebird (the one that doesn't look like an Altima) or an M11 Prairie Joy (related to our Nissan Axxess). And this is what it looks like now, with a new set of steel wheels and some very, VERY period correct wheel covers: What it actually is is a rebadge of a Mazda Bongo van. Mazda's Bongo was immensely successful in the East, to the point where they were rebadged as Mitsubishis, Nissans, Kias, and Fords. This is the Ford version. So, yes, it's a JDM Ford! Power is from a Mazda RF 2.0L turbodiesel 4cyl engine, an engine that actually did make a brief appearance in the United States, in the `84-`86 Ford Escort and Tempo, and Mercury Lynx and Topaz, and also in the `84-`85 Mazda 626 diesel (have you ever seen one of those?!). Those engines were not turbocharged though. This one is. The results? A WHOPPING 71hp and, I estimate, about 150 ft-lbs or so of torque. It's not intercooled, so the power bump over the 52hp USDM nonturbo engines is relatively modest... but hey, that's over 36% more power! It's rear wheel drive (some versions were 4WD) and it's a 5-speed manual. It's by far the most charming and wholesome vehicle I've ever owned and the best part is, It has less than 34,000kms on it! So I have many more years still to enjoy it!
  21. Sucks to hear about that. Definitely sounds like a botched head gasket job. If you can't work on it yourself, how much can you spend? There are a lot of options...depending on your budget. Pay someone to do the work with the risk of finding bigger issues? If there are no major issues then your probably looking at $1500-$1800 for the HG replacement. Or maybe buy a JDM engine? (~$2000 delivered) and pay someone to install it? Maybe $3000 total all said and done but know that you have a reliable engine for the next 100k miles. Or maybe try to break even and sell the car as is for $1000 (probably less) and buy a beater to get you buy for $1000? I live in Colorado (Red Feather!) and haven't had to take my Subarus to anyone yet, but if I did, I'd probably take them to this guy. An independent Subaru specialist....Right in your neighborhood! Maybe he'd give you a free quote and help you make your decision. And if you need a machine shop, Jeff at US Automotive Machine & Performance, also in Loveland, does great work. He's a serious engine builder. He's machined two sets of heads for me. Which brings up another hidden cost....Both times he told me I needed to replace my exhaust valves, which I did. That adds about $500 to the bill. Good luck man!
  22. Head gaskets. "Do not" try any stop leak. If the head gaskets were actually replaced before you got the car, then there could have been a problem with the gasket they used or they were not installed properly, or there is another underlying problem like a warped or cracked head. Won't know until you go hunting. The FSM will have the proper torque sequence for the head bolts. I would check the head bolts and see if you can determine what they are torqued to. Maybe they missed some of them.
  23. Looks like you got to visit some awesome places on your trip. Nice pics. Bummer about the gear tooth, but I'm looking forward to reading about your 6mt swap. Glad you made it home without any serious breakdowns
  24. I am almost done with the swap but I'm at a bit of a loss as to what to do with the coolant hose.
  25. Read my lips: H-E-A-D G-A-S-K-E-T
  1. Load more activity
×