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  3. The car started right up in the shop, with coolant temp at +50F. It doesn't start at all now with coolant temp 30F cooler: it cranks, coughs a little, but never catches. This is really getting irritating. When I get the '02 running I'll probably just park this one for a while. I really hate fussing with spark engines that don't run right.
  4. The engine is back together, and we've dug the car out of the snowbank and gotten it into the shop to thaw out. We'll try to get it installed and tested tomorrow. What sort of oil do y'all recommend for the break in period? I'm figuring some cheap, non-synthetic 5W-30 for 500 miles, then an oil change with more dino oil and give it about 2000 miles before switching to synthetic.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Hope someone can help me... I need to change a TPMS sensor due to Walmart must of cracked the one that is on it because now the light flashes off and on at dash. The thing is on this car unlike videos I have watched to try and find out, My Subaru does not have the settings button on left side of steering wheel to get to the settings for the tire pressure on all four wheels.... Does anyone have a ideal of how you do this on this type of car? I do know that you have to use a TPMS relearn tool to take around to all four wheels but how can I put the car into test mode for them so that It will work ? vin: JF1GPAP68G8233944 2016 Subaru Impreza (2.0i Sport Premium PZEV) 2016 Subaru Impreza 2.0i Sport Premium AWD
  7. valid reason, then.. The major difference is in the catalyst material itself, as ido said above... and would be related more to emissions, not fuel consumption. fwiw - slightly raising tire inflation will net you more in the way of fuel mileage than any cat would. I usually go with about halfway between recommended pressure (on the car's info tag) and max pressure listed on the tire.. and check it regularly..
  8. Thanks! I really appreciate the help! Last time the bearing went out it took it's time and just kept getting louder. This time it happened a little more quickly and more dramatic, and I had trouble getting it into any gear except second to get it home. So I'm hoping I just need to replace the bearing again and everything else is fine. I actually replaced the clutch and plate a couple years ago when I swapped the automatic transmission for a manual (that crapped out a couple years later), and we are getting unfortunately too familiar with dropping the transmission now. I'm also trying to source a pilot bearing and I'm going to try and replace that too. It seems like the pilot bearing is easier to find. This is my fourth Brat and I've had more trouble with this one than the other three put together. I guess that might have something to do with it being almost 40 years old. :-)
  9. On mine the pin comes out. You should be able to get some at any auto parts store.
  10. Y'all were right about the Felpro head bolts: they're garbage. The heads are between 14mm and 15mm, the threads are rough as if they're galvanized. I reused the originals.
  11. Thank you for your Kind Words which I really appreciate. in fact, I just had a surgery on the other Knee too. _____________________________________________________ Greetings fellows, I have Just a Little Update and a simple Question: - Update: Thanks to God, this Lifted & slightly modified 2012 Sorento has been Running Flawlessly, we have done hundreds of errands locally and also too many weekend voyages of hours on highways too, with all the family and even our paranormal Dog involved. The engine runs equally on Super gasoline and Regular Gasoline, despite the low quality of the fuels available locally, I guess the GDi computer adjust the fuel / air mixture on the fly... - Question: as far as I know, the two Timing Chains on this 4 cylinder, GDi 2.4L (G4KJ) "Theta II" engine, are intended to be used during the engine's Lifetime, theres the main timing chain and a smaller one for the oil pump; However, local mechanics has emblazoned the idea of changing them, along their tensioners and related paraphernalia, somewhere around the 100 K or 150 K miles, depending on age and usage. The user manual is not clear regarding the subject. So, what is the best interval to servicing the Timing Chains on these engines? Any information / experience \ suggestion about this, will be welcome. Kind Regards.
  12. Last week
  13. Anyone know of other make cars whose wiper arms will work on our splines? My pin arms are tired and the wiper blades have had the rubber refills replaced so many times that the metal is nearly cracking. At minimum maybe where to find the pin blades as in picture to get new, soft ruber again. LOL
  14. Rear flange is rusted. The only performance gain I would bother with is increased gas mileage.
  15. CARB converters are aftermarket converters intended to be equivalent to OEM and won’t give any performance gains for your engine. aftermarket converters are cheaper and not as emissions efficient as original converters installed at the factory (OEM). They use less of the expensive catalysts to make them cheap - and that’s why they can cause check engine and emission compliance issues. So CA requires CARB compliance which simply means aftermarket converters have to meet higher requirements, or are much closer to OEM specs. They’re more expensive because they have more expensive catalyst and ECON 101 supply and demand. There’s less demand for them. Ignoring all the converter stuff there’s practically zero gains to be had for performance efficiency in the exhaust of a *non turbo* engine. That 08 Forester will have unimpressive 0-60 times no matter what is done to it except forced induction. Entirely removing the converter will have zero practical performance gains. You can have a shop (or do it yourself, Ive done it) make a short section of straight pipe to bolt up to the exhaust. for that matter just unbolt it and run open LOUD exhaust one day to get “free flowing” exhaust and you’ll notice it doesn’t run any different. Happens in the rust belt where exhausts rust off. Those options will result in a tiny performance difference from hoping and pressing the gas pedal more aggressively. None of that is true for turbo engines. Completely different beasts. This can make it deceptive for those scouring online forums or listening to locals talk at work or Friday night at the bar. Just because Atticus installed a high flow exhaust and gained a bunch of power in his turbo doesn’t mean a non-turbo car owner can do the same.
  16. why do you need to replace the cat? there are only 2 reasons I can think of for doing such a thing - one is the cat is clogged - in which case the reason for the clog needs to be addressed, the other is rust damage. If you are thinking performance gains, forget it.
  17. I’ll check with Chris the new owner when I get a chance.
  18. You likely got the TO bearing for the early “Loyale”. Thats for an EA82 engine which is the OHC 1800 as opposed to your EA81 which is OHV 1800. From the Beck Arnley catalog I can see you need their part number 062-1125 I would search ebay for that - Beck Arnley Subaru and the part number or just type in clutch release or throw out. The original part number from Subaru is 43151 7000 which your local parts guy likely won’t find. There is likely a supersede number. They like to add letters to the part number carrying them forward. I’d guess they threw an “AA” in there but that’s it’s own story. A little additional info: 228mm NOT 200mm clutch size Plenty of covers on ebay. And pressure plates too. Best of luck with it. I’m guessing the the correct bearing will result in many miles like your original have you. Enjoy !
  19. I've heard CARB cats are actually more free flowing. They cost quite a bit more. Are they better quality or just stamped with a CARB number? 08 Forester N/A Auto.
  20. loud pump is not normal for these once engine is running. The ECU gives pump a priming power then safely shuts off power until started. Some issues can be sorted by check inspect all electrical connections especially for sensors and main ecu. A spray of electrical contact cleaner to help ...
  21. I have a 1983 Subaru Brat with a 4MT dual range 4WD transmission but long story short I have no idea what year the engine or transmission is. The transmission is a little questionable but the throwout bearing was definitely going bad so (with some effort because I don't consider myself a mechanic) my dad and I replaced it with a new one I got from autozone. It lasted about two weeks and now I need to replace it again. I've been researching how to get a good quality throwout/clutch release bearing but I'm having trouble digging up a source/and or part number. As far as I can tell the internet does not think this part exists for a Subaru before 1985. A lot of the ones I've found online that might work have this cover or something over what is presumably the bearing, and I'm not sure what's up with that. I got the one from Autozone because it looked like a bearing, but after it went bad I went back to read the description more closely and it says it is a general purpose bearing. I'm hoping if I get the right bearing it will last longer. I happen to have an extra (bad) bearing on it's carrier/assembly/whatever and I took a photo of it in case it helps. The bearing has an inner diameter of 35 MM. Anyway, if anybody could point to a source for the right bearing I would greatly appreciate it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  22. but can't hear the fuel pump when the ignition is on, think i used to hear it, was kinda loud before when driven
  23. in 'the old days' cars had a start resistor and a run resistor that sorta had this symptom.
  24. the car start and goes to 3k rpm at 30psi of fuel pressure when the rpm is getting lower it goes up abit then down to 30psi and stalls
  25. Sure sounds to me that this is valve-train related (in olden-days, this would have been called 'noisy tappets'): - either incorrect clearances around the cams; - or in need of an oil-change.
  26. What "part"? Axles don't have bolts, do you mean the 32 mm axle nut and threads it threads onto are damaged? Did you pound the outer CV joint threads that go through the hub and wheel bearing? As you found out, that compresses and damages the threads. Just the outer CV joint (with the 32mm threads/nut) can be removed and replaced, but it requires technique and a lot of force. But if the two axles aren't the made by same company I'm not sure they always play well together.
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