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  2. el_freddo

    Legacy II 2.2i, (BD) sedan, 1997

    Said no one ever! Looks good mate! *almost* makes me want to do a lifted sedan. But I’m a wagon boy at heart (or ute, either way!). Cheers Bennie
  3. I’d be using new gaskets an sealing washers. 5ftlb is just keep the bolt in, on the EJs, it seems the thread is all taken up and the bolt bottoms out on the cam retainer plate. Any tighter and you risk stripping the bolt or the thread the bolt fits in to. Cheers Bennie
  4. el_freddo

    83 Brat GL Overheating

    I didn’t realise how badly I typed that post! Apologies! Cheers Bennie
  5. Maybe select the best one and have that as a spare just so you feel good about trying to salvage those beads. As mentioned , might not hold air if they all look as bad. Good luck.
  6. Bail out and start saving some spare change for a set from another enthusiast.
  7. Steptoe

    83 Brat GL Overheating

    Bennie has a point here....maybe second sensor to auto trans pan or a body housing bolt? Somewhere to monitor trans temp guts. Once you monitor and test it's temp range can set a higher temp for alert? If I had auto this would be my move. Thinking cars with oil temp monitors have sensor on tin or alloy sump close the oil. I'd go side of pan myself
  8. Steptoe

    83 Brat GL Overheating

    I think the more you take a specialist sort of vehicle to either wrong specialist, or an ordinary workshop - the more you will want to learn to diagnose, fix and maintain your beast yourself. Maybe mount the oil filter sensor to a magnet to make oil changes easier. Grease monkeys likely to not expect an oil filter sensor. Do your own oil changes now. An overheat often kills engines and transmissions. Maybe a compression test for engine now a good starting point?
  9. Need some ideas, photos, tips on how to make a tail shaft centre bearing fit up to an EA81 transmission tunnel And, for once, I am asking in the most appropriate forum section I have an EJ20 from AUDM GF8 Impreza sitting in the engine bay with widened slots. It fits. Then I have the Impreza 5MT AWD box sitting behind it without flywheel and clutch at the moment - working on an H bracket crossmember So, wondering what others have done to mount the tailshaft centre bearing for full EJ conversions I have done the flat bar method before using EA82 five speed and two piece tailshafts. Also done another make centre bearing support bracket The EJ tailshafts centre bearing sits a little further back from EA82 location and it doesn't look so easy The world is full of EJ conversions but most seem to be engine only with adaptor plates. Unfortunately I got a bee in my bonnet about using more modern driveline... So, some pics and text would be greatly appreciated
  10. DaveT

    87 GL Wagon ignition help.

    Oh, my.... The following applies if the engine is an EA82. There should be a sticker a little to the left of the starter on the top edge of the bell housing. Also, cast into the block to the right of the dip stick, right up front by the timing belt cover. There are a few guys I've seen run a weber carb. But you have to switch the distributor to the carb version, from the SPFI version, I believe. Why anyone would do this hack job is a mystery to me. The OEM SPFI system I have found extremely reliable, and gives more power than the Hitachi Carbed version of the engine. I have been running these EA82 engines since 1988, have 2 that share my daily driving needs now. Never had an ignition system problem, even with 30 year old parts. So what I would do - assuming this car is in very nice rust free condition - is get another wrecked / rusty one that has the SPFI system intact, and restore it to original. There were some changes between years in between 86, 87, 88, so it will be a little easier if the parts car is the same year, but not 100% necessary. A few connectors and wire colors changed, but that's about it, all the way to 1994.
  11. so do i have to actually swap the valve or could i just swap the whole rear half of the case with the valve in it? im still not really sure if i need to but im guessing i should anyways while i have the transmission. ive been noticing some front wheel spin sometimes and been questioning if awd is working pr not. i think it is kind of because it wont keep spinning for long on wet grass but will spin sometimes on wet pavement and in gravel very easy. yet there is also a very noticeable difference between fwd fuse in and fwd fuse out so maby its just that im not used to the extra power and taller gears? i came from driving a 2.2 outback on 3.90 gear set to the 2.5 outback on 4.44.
  12. The computer has no control over the battery light. From the 2pin connector, one wire goes to the battery lamp -> fusebox -> positive rail. The other wire goes battery positive as directly as possible. If the voltage the alternator puts out is too high or too low compared to the positive rail at the fuse block , the light comes on from differential voltage. One wire should have some resistance to the positive battery. The other should have very little resistance.
  13. Earlier cars charged at 13.8 V. Some of the newer ones are around 14.4 V. I have a Remy alternator right now that I have to return because it put out too much voltage. It melted the plastic on the coil for the clutch on the A/C Compressor among other things. After I saw that plastic slung all over the place, I did not want to start it just to see what the voltage really was. Subaru's price for the A/C Compressor on our 95 RHD Legacy Wagon is around $1000.00. I looked at a WRX two years ago for a friend that was blowing an 80 AMP fuse. The alternator was putting out over 20 Volts and it was the original that came on the car.
  14. Hi there, As I'm going through the efforts to reassemble the H6 in our 2001 Outback, the manual says to torque the cover to a whopping 6.3 N-m, or 4.6 ft-lb. Which was just barely enough to make the 55.2 in-lb click on my torque wrench. That's just a tad tighter than hand tight, it seems. OK, so I'm new to Subaru, and I've dealt with 'hand tight, plus a 1/4 turn', in the past. Will they really not leak? The instructions didn't call for locktite. They didn't specify dry or lubed bolts - so I just cleaned them well... And installed them. Is it me? Is this just a feature I'll have to get used to? Are the gaskets really that good??? Or are leaks in my future....? Mike
  15. Personally, the flashing wouldn't bother me,,,,,,,but,,,,,,on my Wife's car-----AHHH. Every time she drives it she would ask me when are you going to fix that stupid flashing light. Her car is started many times every day.
  16. Do you know the max voltage before the ECM turns the battery light on? I was a bit embarrassed to post and I thought an 02 was old :) It does help that I know essentially where the 2 wires go to look for a problem at the origination. Will look deeper tomorrow. Thanks for the reply
  17. Check and clean the 2pin connector carefully. Replace if needed. That connector is the sense circuit, one wire runs as directly to the battery as possible, the other goes through fuses, dash circuit, through the dash battery lamp. Oldschool subarus have a light bulb for the battery for resistance and the charging circuit depends on that. The alternator uses the voltage differential between two wires to regulate power. If the connector is dirty or wires are corroded, the extra resistance will force more voltage. Yeah and unplugging it completely disables the charging so the lights turn off. No computer involved. The light turns on if there's a big enough voltage differential. No idea how newer ones work, they have leds and digital gauges.
  18. *** unfortunately I did not check the old one other than ir was putting out a little over 15v also so I assumed it was overcharging 1.A done and all are OK 1.B will check that 2. Understand but I did buy a Remy in the HOPES that would not happen 3. Not quite understanding 3 but I will look and see tomorrow, I have 5 Ford diesels now (WVO runner) so those cast harmonic monsters don't have issues. I assume Subaru is some sort of multi piece? All other accessories including AC and PS is working good and no noises. THANKS for your reply!!
  19. Ok so i bought this GL last February. As ive been working on it. It was obvious that the guy i bought it from got suckered in because this thing is a Frankenstein under the hood. The ECM was disconnected. The FI system was removed and a VW Beetle carb was installed. I got that all squared away by installing the proper fuel pump meant for a carb, and have worked out a new air intake for the carb, just have to scoop my hood to fit the aircleaner. But now im dealing with an ignition problem. The coil shorted and fried the ignition switch in the steering column and popped the fuse. But get this. The ignition coil was from a late 90s Volvo meant for a distributor-less ignition system. In doing that, the "mechanic" (and i use that title with much sarcasm) removed the ICM because the Volvo coil comes with it on the coil mount. So now i dont know which ICM i should buy. I keep getting these two showing up in searching for the proper part. I have already replaced the ignition switch and fuse. I bought the proper coil but need to figure out which ICM i need. Can you help?
  20. Yes a simple switch is all you need.You can literally cut that wire and just twist it and untwist it together, it’s that simple. The TCU will just flash 16 times the next time you start the car after using the switch, that’s it. It’s not flashing while driving just start up and it never flashes unless you use the switch. It doesn’t otherwise impact the TCU or cause it to drive differently. obviously running wire and a switch is the way to go. I’ve never done the resistor because there’s no need. If someone can’t stand a light for 5 seconds I don’t know how they tolerate all the lights coming on the dash when the key is turned to on....ahahhaa end of the world, I need 13 more resistors! Lol.
  21. *** Are the old and new alternator symptoms identical, different, or don’t know? If identical, then #3 below is more likely. 1. Clean up, tighten, and verify battery terminal connections and wiring. Check voltage at alternator and battery and make sure they’re the same. 2. Aftermarket alternators aren’t high percentage. zero zero zero surprise if the alt is garbage. 3. Check for crank pulley separation. If it’s bad you can see it. Or draw a line across the face of the crank pulley. Run the engine. If the line “breaks” your crank pulley is separated and you need a new one. You can tack weld it or use through bolts to hold it together temporarily or permanently.
  22. Yesterday
  23. Need help! Cant seem to find the exact same issue on here like I am having. 2002 Forester 5 speed installed new alternator checked all brakes. Battery and brake light are on and will go OFF, when I unplug the 2 wire alternator connector both of the lights will go off, while the brake light is on also it gets brighter when I actually pull the brake up so don't think it is that switch. What I have determined and tried so far: 1. Battery at rest 12.6 V and i also checked with an electronic load tester and it shows 100% charged, <4 meg ohms resistance and passed a 625CCA load test. 2. With car running battery reads 14.8 to 15V (already replaced alternator already assuming it was a bad regulator and it had 180K miles on it before doing any of this) 3. When I unplug the 2 wire connector on the alternator both lights go out and the battery goes to about 12.3V running with no accessories on. 4. I have cleaned body and motor ground connections with sandpaper and reinstalled. Cleaned and put protector on battery post. Used electrical cleaner on the 2 wire Alt connector. I don't understand the problem, is this and the other alternator possibly putting out over voltage out of cars computer accepted parameter and causing the light(s) to come on? Am I missing something? I am a master electrician (big wires LOL) and used to restore old cars and do modern engine transplants into them so not a total novice but this LITTLE problem on the Rue has me scratching my head....Any suggestions?
  24. That's a good question and one we want to answer over the winter. I'm guessing with the cage, jacks, and fuel cell it's almost 4000#. On a trip like that we have a good 500# of cargo in it, figure 300-400# for driver and passenger, so 4500# ++ loaded. During a desert race it's closer to 200# of cargo (tools, spares, etc). The main reason we're not bottoming out is the long travel struts with spring rates and damping for hard driving. This car bottomed out all the time on the stock struts and springs when driven hard without the cage, jacks, fuel cell, H6, etc.
  25. I've been wondering what your loaded trail weight is? I've had the thought after I look at yer pictures and videos of the speeds you hit stuff too think "Damn I'd be bottoming out my rear suspension constantly" That is until just recently with the addition of a second set of springs for the rear....but I digress. So yeah, What's that beast weigh ready to roll with a full tank?
  26. Overall it was a good trip. We made progress tuning the shocks and got some ideas for how to improve them further. End of the V2R course didn't seem too bad so we're planning on trying that again next year. Frame fix was one of our best yet. Have to improve some things over the winter. No CV axle replacements so the softer springs on the Forester probably helped with that. I put just over 5000 miles on my car. Got 18-20mpg on the highway, considerably better than the 17mpg I am used to with the EZ30. Wondering if the fuel pump or an injector is going bad. Optimistically it could be due to improved flow through the new (to the car) cats. Only used two quarts of engine oil, B said the Forester's oil consumption was less than that. The three big things I decided we should do to my black Outback before the V2R are: rear strut tower reconstruction and addition of tubes to rollcage front skidplate lowering/adding engine clearance – already started on this safety wiring and/or cotter pinning all suspension fasteners and exhaust manifold nuts There are many other modifications, inspections, and preventative maintenances that are on the list too. I've been thinking about it for a while but T made us think about weight reduction more, we think we can take 100# or more out of the car fairly easily while lowering the center of gravity.
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