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  1. Today
  2. Ya l researched it what was said made sense in way. Not able to grasp the chemistry i'll take there word tho. When l got the car it had a surge issue an gutless as hell basically carboned up an choking on it own oil l reinstalled egr after a good clean seems to work. If l can help with our impact on the planet l will. I often wonder how many times we've blown ourselves back to the stone age.
  3. Answers my question about the Outback XT at the dealer with a blown turbo=pass
  4. Este es mi Oldschool
  5. Its the G sensor under the center console in the center of the car. It measures the acceleration/deceleration of the car. Its reading high, you did something to scare all the G's out of it.
  6. I have never had that come up on any car I've scanned. Very strange. GD
  7. FerGloyale

    Rear axle replacement

    duh. I should have read better. I swear I'm losing my ability to read and process information.
  8. czny

    Rear axle replacement

    " I was able to get the old axle off the diff very easily, and using the BFH and wooden block method I got the stub shaft driven back out through the hub. " Have a set of these & they are better quality than most available locally: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-Drive-E10-Deep-E-Torx-Socket-Trident-T120610-Free-P-P/122072255192?epid=11017011463&hash=item1c6c12cad8:g:2TAAAOSwARZXo2We
  9. alexbuoy

    1983 GL Wagon build thread

    Talk to Sam he's gonna scrap the loyale soon. Grab the front end off of it and the motor to put into the 2 door
  10. FerGloyale

    Rear axle replacement

    I think what he's dealing with is a stuck stub in the diff. Here's what needs to happen. First, unboot the inner CV joint. Remove the inner lip circlip. Remove the shaft and inner race/cage. Now, clean grease out of the bottom of the cup. You wil be able to see the pressed in "plug" at the bottom. Drill a hole through it, sheet metal screw it and pull with puller. Or whatever else caveman you can do but get that plug outta there. Now you need an E10 "reverse" torx socket. 1/4 drive deep well is best. Use it to remove the bolt in the center of the diff stub that holds it into the diff. Now the cup and stub can be taken to a press and pressed apart. sometime requires heating the cup around the stub, but if so you won't want to reuse that cup.
  11. Yesterday
  12. czny

    Rear axle replacement

    "Still have to cut the remains of the bearings off. I am a bit stuck, pardon the pun, on now removing the stub shaft from the axle since after 30 years together they seem well accustomed to staying that way. Any ideas? I have thought about cutting the axle where it bells out but I don't know if that would give me the access I want to then press the stub out? " https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/168762-saving-rust-seized-ea-rear-axle-stubs-cvs/?tab=comments#comment-1398686
  13. One of the first things I did with my 83 Brat after driving it home to NYC from Tallahassee was go to Lowes and pick up some lumber. I loaded some long 4x4's through the rear window and one of them was touching the windshield. I hit a small pothole and shattered the glass. After a replacement tinted windshield and new gasket was beautifully installed by a glass shop, I thought I was out of the woods. But I parked in our carport which has had a heavy wooden sculpture hanging from the ceiling for over ten years. A big storm blew through and I woke up to find it had fallen onto the new windshield and shattered it. Gary Brant
  14. moosens

    My new Brat

    North Salem NY is Hayfields , but I didn’t see any events happening with a quick glance. The big one that you want to catch for sure , eventually is Caffeine and Carbs in New Canaan CT - check them online. They sometimes are downtown and sometimes at Waveny Park. Can’t go wrong with this meet. You’ll see it all from Paganis to unrestored funky classics.
  15. exercion

    Rear axle replacement

    Thanks for the replies folks. Just to update: I had a catastrophic bearing failure before I could install a new axle. I was able to get the old axle off the diff very easily, and using the BFH and wooden block method I got the stub shaft driven back out through the hub. Still have to cut the remains of the bearings off. I am a bit stuck, pardon the pun, on now removing the stub shaft from the axle since after 30 years together they seem well accustomed to staying that way. Any ideas? I have thought about cutting the axle where it bells out but I don't know if that would give me the access I want to then press the stub out? Eric
  16. moosens

    Woohoo!

    Mainiacs have come and gone but I’m sure there’s a couple left here. Good luck with the 360. This board doesn’t really have a strong 360 support but of course you’re welcome to hang out. Enjoy!
  17. 83subaruGLchick

    1983 GL Wagon build thread

    I have a friend who has a 2 door GL wagon and hes taking the front end and the drive train for his wrecked brat then he said I can have it so ive been tossing around that idea because it would be a 2 door which is my favorite and it has a little bit less rust and I can just gut mine out into that one
  18. 5,000 RPMs is with the TPS change, using the old ECU. I later installed the new ECU but haven't tried starting the engine since then... 5,000 RPMs made me nervous and I quit for the weekend. Hopefully the new ECU won't allow another 5,000 RPM start, this may prove that I've had a bad old ECU all along and it went crazy with the new TPS. I want to test and adjust the TPS first to at least get it close to spec before starting the engine. I'll get a set of feeler gauges and follow your advise and the manual. I do electrical work on my job, so I also have various clips and test wires to help out. I suspect that the new TPS is adding fuel. I haven't found any vacuum leaks, using the carb cleaner spray method but will test further, especially if things don't improve. Ah yes, I need to check the CTS voltage again. It was a bit over 3V with the old ECU, the new one should fix this, otherwise I will just rewire the pigtail. Thanks, I'll keep you posted.
  19. I don't get a lamp for this code, but noticed a code for the brake system last time I had the SSM2 hooked up, pulled the code and it was "42 - G sensor high friction detected." Did a quick read of those threads. I'll look for a rusty relay, but I'm not missing a tone ring and the code "42" appears to have been given a different function in the 2002 WRX compared to the threads you linked to, which mention "low voltage" as pertaining to code 42.
  20. An old pic of my ej swap For my camaro forum i cant find the pic on my phone and i need the url haha
  21. ah, that definition seems to be voltage-related in some posts - maybe check connections and ground wires? found this; and https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/29113-abs-code-42-a.html
  22. I went cross-eyed trying to read that and quit after the first few lines. @ferp420 I guess girls and school teachers will be getting all my attention then...
  23. This code was pulled using a SSM2 in the "Brake" diagnostics. This isn't an engine related code, this came straight from the ABS computer.
  24. scalman

    '01 outback 2.5AT, VDC offroad/ overlanding build

    took apart mine and measured and yes ones are longer then others and those longer ones locks on my lifted suspension in half way down so i just cant use them. so i changed CV on those shorter axles and im good. now i will have 2 long and 2 short axles so later just need to change CV in ends. but its pretty messy job to do they about 1.2cm shorter thats fully compressed down. so how that could work with even longer travel suspension then ? you need longer links then and redone all arms i guess anyway. now i remember that when i just lifted car first time i couldnt put down rear to put bolt on strut so i was compressing strut so that i could put that bolt in it. now with those shorter axles in rear i just push down all with hand and im almost reaching enough to put strut bolt down there. means they flexing more down. when i put that longer axle its just locks in half way down and stops thats it its locked. amd put back front sway bar with links. links are little too short so they allways on tension and on some angle that they not supose to be . but i will do more high speed driving as weather get warmer so it will give me some more stable feeling of car i guess as my sterring shack is quiet loose now. tried drive 90 then 100 then 120 after 100 sound comes from rear i duno i done all wheels rebalanced i changed front bearing rear bearing and still that whine in rear so maybe its really tires then not sure. all people that drive in rear when i go more speed they all complain thats its pretty loud there. i know it as im driving alone i put music loud and such so its doesnt bother me so much but what can i do more? changed bearings and axle and still same whine after 90 km speed. and after 100 some vibration to wheel ... not sure again what gives vibration as i just done all wheels balancing. so what else can give vibration ? i know axles can so i changed one rear one and its nothing changed. maybe its front then. ... best way would be try put all 4 wheels summer quiet tires and then test but i dont have those.
  25. I`m confused. Is the 5000 rpm with only the TPS change(s)? or TPS and ECU? or TPS and either ECU? Adjusting the TPS is simple.Feeler gauges are like $3 or you can sometimes use drill bits instead. It is a one man job.Move the throttle by hand. You take resistance measurements w/the TPS unplugged. My info says: 1 Measure resistance between the black and gray wires w/a .35 mm(.014") feeler gauge between the throttle stop and the lever.Should be 5000 ohms or less. 2 Change feeler gauge to .75mm.Resistance should now be infinite. 3 Remove feeler gauge.Resistace between the black/white wire and the black should be 3000-7000. 4 Measure resistance between green/black and black.Throttle closed should be 4200-15,000.Fully open 100-11,000 5 Check for a smooth variation as the throttle moves. I do not see any way the TPS could command the IACV open.It could change the fuel though. It would be worth knowing if you still get 5000 rpm w/the IACV unplugged.(better yet-hose blocked pigtail connected) I suspect the new TPS stuff added fuel to a preexisting vacuum leak thus spiking the rpm. Is there 5 volts at the CTS pigtail w/the new ECU?
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