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  2. Those coins also means the head hasn’t over heated since the last work was done. They’re there as a warranty on their work. Over heat the heads and the coins fall off. Cheers Bennie
  3. el_freddo

    1987 gl wagon headlight issues

    Clean the switch contacts in the cluster switch. Steering wheel will need to be removed for this. Also check all solder joints on the main wires to the switch cluster. Renew/repair if looking dry/cracked/dodgy. I had the main power wire for the lights break off mine one night on a 2hr drive home. It shorted out so I had low beams. Not great but I was greatful for having some sort of lights I could drive home with. The symptoms you describe are the same as what I had in the lead up to this issue - except for the lights randomly turning off when in use. Mine only did it between switching from Lo to high and vice versa. I ended up replacing the combination switch from a ‘91 L series and haven’t had an issue since. It was a much tighter unit too. My old one had 400,000ish km on it with a lot of night driving during my ownership (which continues). Cheers Bennie
  4. Also make sure your crank and cam sensors are bolted in place correctly and are plugged in. Any codes on the ECU? Cheers Bennie
  5. Coin thing means the heads were worked on at a machine shop. Likely engine already had a head gasket job in the past.
  6. Great. Those relays seldom go bad, but time takes its toll. Was the relay round? Those handle more current. One time the fuel pump quit on our 95 when my wife was near the end of her mail route. I grabbed my spare and found her. When I removed the supply hose there was a lot of pressure and I thought I wonder, so I tightened the clamp and it started, so she finished the route and I replaced the pump when she got home. It seems the pump did not want to start under pressure.
  7. one thing to consider would be a head unit upgrade - you could get bluetooth and maybe a usb port, as well as other features. check www.crutchfield.com for some ideas
  8. You’re fine - just bleed them waaaaay more. I’m talking 64 ounces of fluid sometimes I’ve seen 32 ounces not be enough. Just keep going. When that much is drained and introduces air throughout the entire system, it can take way more fluid to drain them than other brake work.
  9. The warranty tag was for 2009. Usually they offer a 30-60 or 90 day warranty on a yard engine. That has been my experience. Do they offer total rebuilds and go 3 yrs 36K?
  10. I just bought an 06 Impreza hatch. 3rd one and by far the cleanest one Ive owned so far. Something I've noticed but never gave much thought to was all the "blanks" that I guess would be switches or plugs if you got certain options? Idk. By the steering wheel on the left side there is the switch for the fog lights and then 3 blanks where other switches could be. There are also 2 more blanks down on the center console. Which brings me to my question, has anyone added USB charging ports in these spots or any other mods / electronics done in these spots? Easy to do?
  11. Main bearings and their oil clearance and alignment of the crankshaft. When you pull the pistons make sure they go back into the same hole. The FSM has good info and pictures on the piston rings and checking the end gap of the compression ring in the cylinder.
  12. Yesterday
  13. I got the pump to work! It was the fuel pump relay under driver side dash. Swapped it with my other car and it started up.
  14. Any idea what these mean? I know LKQ is a auto dismantler, but does this mean there's a warranty on this engine? The sticker is on top of the block and the coin thing is on the back of the passenger side head.
  15. I got a pump un stuck. Didn't take as much as I thought it might, but this could vary depending on how crummy the fuel was, etc... 10,000uF charged to 15V connected to the pump with less than 2 feet of total wire. [Low resistance is part of how to get a big impulse of energy in a short time] This pump didn't run when I had tested it with straight 12V a year or so ago. Using the capacitor, I could have gone to 24, 36, or even higher. The shortness of the pulse would limit the heat to avoid burning out a winding, But the short burst of higher voltage would give it a bigger kick of torque momentarily.
  16. I can not find a wiring harness diagram for your car, so I don't know about yours, but on our 95 Legacy RHD the fuse block is located on the right side under the dash and the Fuel Pump relay and Main relay clip into brackets above the fuse block. They have their own 4 pin connectors. Left Hand Drive may be on the other side.
  17. Yes we got it! Haven't checked it yet but will do. Thank you!
  18. As weird as it sounds, check all your fuses. Physically and with a meter.
  19. https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/acc-flashing-in-information-display.15509/
  20. I have not worked on the older Subarus, but I have worked on a ton of older vehicles. What we have is in the mid 90's, all RHD Legacys. One more question. Did you get the Ignitor from the 91? The ignitor is mounted at the center of the firewall where the support arm goes to the bellhousing. The ECU gets signals from the cam and crank sensors, then sends signals to the Ignitor, from it they go to the coil. The Ignitor is basically high power transistors that handles the high current load of switching the coil instead of the ECU. Unplug the connector from the coil and turn the key to IGN. Check the pins on the connector, one of them should be 12 volts.
  21. I’m 99% sure this is the problem I’m having with my Subaru. A couple weeks ago I spilled several gallons of water on the drivers side floor of my car. There was literally standing water I was poring out with a cup. Now my dash is blinking err or acc when the car isn’t on and it drains my battery so the car won’t start unless I jump it. I tried to find the green/yellow clip under my drivers seat but I didn’t have luck. There are 4 openings in my 06 outbacks under there. 2 appear to be for heat vents, 1 has a massive bundle of cords that come out of it but are covered in black plastic, and the last just appears to be a small hole. Can anyone provide guidance as to how to find the open tire pressure clip in more detail?
  22. Any clues where the fuel pump relay is located?
  23. I totally agree with you, GD knows what he's talking about, no question there. That's why I'm asking these questions. I don't want to do all this work, put this engine in and have a spun bearing or something else I could have addressed when the engine was taken apart.
  24. just as an FYI - GD builds Subarus for a living, and he is DAMN good at what he does. When he tells someone not to do something, one should probably take the advice that said, as a female, I have done more things that i was told not to do, or that I "can't" do (because of being female) than you can shake a stick at. Mostly because I was told I couldn't.. yes, i did run into things that i could not do well, or needed help with, but many things I did, and did well. But, I am also wise enough to listen to those with far more experience than I have in certain situations. GD is one of those people. rebuilding an engine - any engine - is not a simple task. listening to the advice of those that have the experience is just good common sense.
  25. What are the issues/mistakes I'm going to encounter if I do crack the case? The o-rings I've already replaced have been completely brittle, so I want to replace the oil and coolant o-rings in the case at least. Please point me in the right direction so I don't waste my time.
  26. Yes using the ECU and wiring harness from the 91
  27. Are you using the ECU AND Wiring harness from the 91? The 82 had a distributor. The 91 is MPFI and needs the ECU to control injectors and spark.
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