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  3. Addendum to this thread: The other experiment I performed as part of the rebuild was with that little timing belt (guard? guide?) that's mounted just over the crank sprocket. Well, it's there in the EJ22s, but I've never seen one in an EJ25 - but the mounts are there in the castings for it. So I stuck one in. Another bad idea. When I opened the timing cover to begin the HG replacement, it was full of black rubber dust ground off the back side of the belt. That crap was also deposited on the idler rollers, and the idlers are discoloured, just like you'd expect with a piece of metal that had been severely overheated (though that's obviously not what happened here). I've ordered a new belt and won't be trying that trick again.
  4. Glad to see both of my turbo Scoobs being called out in this thread. I have owned two Legacy Turbos and two EJ205 powered WRXs. Engine wise they have all been reliable save for my 04 WRX which spun a bearing during a very spirited canyon run. I currently have 165,xxx miles on my 02 WRX and it is still on the original engine, transmission, and turbocharger.
  5. Clearing yard of many parts including some very nice 80-94 "square body" parts. Most are in the '88-'94 timeframe. GL, DL, and Loyale. Can ship larger parts for less via Greyhound Bus. Very clean metal, little to no snow here in Rio Grande Valley so no de-icing chemicals. These cars have now pretty much dissipated from the U Pull Its here. Fenders, Hood, inner front fender skirts, Front valance, front fender tie bar, Loyale headlight assemblies, (2) manual racks, rear drum assemblies, knuckles, rear control arm, CV shafts, more. Package deal on all, should be a very useful addition for a Subaru parts specialist. Dave S southern New Mexico 88032
  6. I just run them. Cant see the gouges under the rings
  7. DaveT

    Engine flush result

    If it's seeping into the intake, you won't see anything. Most of the slow leaks I've had externally were very sneaky also. The hot block evaporates it, leaving little trace. Many would only leak at pressure, when it's at operating temperature. As long as you check it frequently, you can get away with it, but I've had the leak rate suddenly increase, with little or no warning, and then it's a full headgasket up reseal, if it only overheats a little.
  8. Scoby4wd

    Intake Manifold Bolts

    I just went through this. I managed to pull them all without breaking them. The key was to loosen them like a 1/8-1/4 turn at most, just enough so that you create the slightest gap between the head of the bolt and the manifold. I did this by very slowly and light working them back and forth until I could get that slight gap. Then I sprayed CRC Freeze Off, waited a minute or two, and started working it again. Repeated this a couple of times and they all came out no issues.
  9. ...I'm still looking for windshields, Paul ;). Keeping the body, lots of rust repair and merging it with my WRX chassis. The remaining parts are up for grabs. I drove this car to work for about a month before I took it apart. K
  10. Ionstorm66

    Engine flush result

    I haven't seen coolant in the engine, and it's constantly about a cup every 4K miles. No bubbles. I replaced the throttle body gaskets already too. It isn't enough to tear into things, but just enough to bother me.
  11. I'll have to see what I used... It's been in there a long time now. Or check what fusible link / fuse is in line with the ignition switch. That's a starting point for a minimum. The starter solenoid is thirsty for amps. Relay contacts are rated in different ways - resistive is common, and the easiest on a contact. Lamps and inductive loads are much harder on contacts. Typically contacts are derated from the resistive rating for a given contact when used for incandescent lights or inductive loads .
  12. I 'd like to take the ujoints out of the dl drive line if anyone has done this / no c clips? I need to make my rail a fast drive route
  13. DaveT

    Engine flush result

    Could be head gasket, or intake gasket, or the seal for the throttle body to intake. Or a seep from a hose, water pump seal, rusted hard line on top of the engine. Normally with the head gasket, you can see bubbles endlessly coming out of the radiator, either by looking in the filler, or into the recovery tank.
  14. DaveT

    Exhaust manifold gaskets

    Worst case, you might have to remove the support bolt that hangs it from the transmission.
  15. Thank you. I’ll probably just go for it. Yes the 80 brat is the gen 1 <79 body.
  16. robmillion

    Who needs keys? or locks re-keyed?

    i think they are still available. but the 80 brat and an 80 DL/GL are totally different cars, right? i believe they changed the GL/DL's before they changed the brat and hatchback. or was that only for the mid-80's change when they started to look like the loyale? i can't remember.... anyway, there are definitely kits for the early 80's DL/GL (with the ea81 engine), but if the brat was held over with the previous body style, i'm not sure if it would be the same kit. since becoming a locksmith and knowing what to look for, i have never seen the locks in any of those old subarus. the kits come up on ebay pretty often, so it might be worth it to get one. you can always just sell it again if it doesn't work out. it will be listed as nissan/subaru because they used the same locks back then. ASP makes the kits. i'll try to find a part number in the next day or two if i get a chance.
  17. Can I replace the manifold gaskets without pulling the ypipe? Been a while since I've done a EA, I know you can on EJs. Now that the head has no oil on it, I can see a exhaust stain forming on the passenger side, so need to replace them.
  18. Ionstorm66

    Engine flush result

    It wasn't all golden before the flush! Also I did the coolant, it was surprisingly all green still. No brown sludge like I'm used to on old coolant. Only issue there is it takes about a cup of coolant per oil change, and I can't find where it's going. Hope it isn't the start of a head gasket.
  19. rickyhils

    Both headlight relays always on

    OK. So a relay rated at 20 amps would do the job for the starter relay? And, on the headlight circuit, the relays send full positive voltage/amperage when ign is ON. But the connection to ground is of a lighter gauge wire isn't it? Is it that the final connection to ground is of a lower amperage? I am not educated in this. Thanks
  20. I haven't had a problem with the OEM headlight wiring / switches. The starter switch / or it's wiring yes. i added a relay for both of my cars. The current is higher in the start wire, and the load is inductive, which is far worse on the switch than headlamps.
  21. rickyhils

    Both headlight relays always on

    Got it. They are RELAYS from now on! But is it not better to add relays to both head light switch and starter switch?
  22. rickyhils

    Both headlight relays always on

    Good idea. Original relays are the 056708-5260. But any relay that can handle 20 amps should be OK.
  23. Yesterday
  24. Step-a-toe

    Both headlight relays always on

    Ricky, you keep calling relays "solenoids" you gonna make other brains sweat Yeah, I thought no relay on switching side was odd but leave it as they were for 30 years
  25. Step-a-toe

    Engine flush result

    Nice and rare to find just a golden tinge to the internals instead of black carbon crudge the norm. I pulled one of my rebuilds apart after 120,000 km ( because I had to ) . Pristine,like new inside after 8 years due to oil and filter change every 10,000 km Have seen and heard of engines doing 50 and 60,000 km without an oil change. The old VW air coolers driven weekly by widows being found full of oil turned to grease or the Buick designed V6 finally seizing and snapping a camshaft Makes me wonder how far our Subes have been neglected Now, I dare you to try a coolant flush...
  26. Blow it out from front to tank.But not into the tank , right ? Put a strainer on it. And whatever GD told you.
  27. Casual observance from a long time Parts monger. Subaru got more strict with retention and purge of stock. Ordering dealers to destroy or damage parts before going into a dumpster. That was all in line with the 80’s boom and them no longer needing mom n pop shops who got their foothold for them. At that point it became way more corporate controlled, at least directed. Plenty of guys back doored some parts into their person possessions, but not nearly enough to generate a healthy New Old Stock base like we enjoy , somewhat , with our 1970’s stock. No where near the number of 80’s genuine stock out there comparatively per vehicles like the 70’s. And going forward it pretty much bites. I wish I had spent even more time at my local dealer when they were purging early 90’s Legacy/Impreza Parts. I was lucky enough to be let into the 30 yarder to sift out whatever I could on at least one occasion. But that’s about where it ends for scoring early 90’s parts cheap or better. Story over for now. Enjoy ! And good luck.
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