Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

All Activity

This stream auto-updates

  1. Today
  2. Transmission is on the car now, we only encounter that the rear differential it’s different where the axle inserts into the differential. Do we need to change anything on the rear differential?
  3. Yesterday
  4. hold onto the bad trans until you know the donor trans pan isn’t dented and it doesn’t have toque bind. And it’s not missing the torque converter, stubby shafts, or shift switch on the passengers side. Usualky they just come with all that stuff but I’ve seen all of those missing or damaged before too. but in general, Nope. They’re basically the same trans with slightly different guts inside and all that stuff usually stays with the trans Torque bind isn’t uncommon so if you wanted you could save the rear extension housing (it’s like 6 or 8 easy bolts and it pops right off). It has the 4WD clutches and solenoid. Or just hold onto the trans At least until you drive it and verify the donor trans doesn’t have torque bind. Then throw it away or keep the rear housing if you have room. make sure he knows how to properly seat the torque converter, if you don’t the oil pump will crack inside the trans. The torque converter and flex plate should not touch when the trans is bolted up to the engine and installed. The flex plate bolts will draw them together.
  5. I have a P0500 code and a pending p0500. Lights are on, Engine light, ABS, brake and cruise control flashing. Speedometer shows zero. Won't shift back into Reverse or Park if in drive unless I turn off car. I incorrectly determined my year/model Outback did not have a VSS sensor in the transmission. Replaced a bad wheel speed sensor on the front left that tested no continuity with my ohm meter. I cleared the codes, but both came back immediately. Here are my questions: 1. Which sensor and location of the three on the replacement transmission wiring harness is failing to send speed? 2. I tested Ohms to identify a bad speed sensor at the main harness connector but got a small reading on both sensor 1 and sensor 2. Could the sensor be bad and need replacement if the ohm test passes? 3. I see people splicing the wires to swap out a hard-wired sensor that is part of the harness to avoid opening the transmission to access the 4th plug. Is this ok? 4. A mechanic friend gave me a new wire harness that he cut off sensor 1 and spliced it in for a customer.. Can I use speed sensor 2 from this new harness to replace sensor 1??? They look the same. lol This remaining new sensor also tested very low Ohms. 5. The price I saw for a new harness from Subaru is $300, but I found it at Garage-Pro at $50. Is that acceptable quality? SaveShare
  6. I would simply top off the oil at every other tank fill rather than risk all that can go wrong having someone swap in another block. Plenty of things can go wrong after an engine swap on a used car and then the blame game begins. I agree with thicker oil as well.
  7. Recalls are only for life threatening conditions. Even warranty extensions and class action lawsuits expire. The fix is tighter piston rings. Replacing piston rings in a mechanical shop is costly and time consuming, makes more sense to just swap it for an updated shortblock. Either way, tighter rings will reduce fuel mileage. If you know a GOOD mechanic (not a guy who worked on a Chevy once) who will give you a screaming deal on his time, the engine can be rebuilt. Probably $800ish in parts from your local dealership, but a LOT of labor. Or $3k in parts from the dealer for a shortblock and gaskets, and then only a bunch of labor (and still skilled labor. Cam carrier and timing chains will leak the first few times a person does them). I've heard of people retrofitting used engines from slightly newer cars with a few minor modifications. Might be worth looking into. But consult with the shop you're likely to use, as that can be a can of worms that leads to endless headaches for everybody, so they might not want to touch it. Or, just live with it. My mom bought a 2012 Impreza years ago with about 20k miles on it, but a salvage title (no warranty, even extensions. Only recalls). She drove it for about 200k miles before the CVT failed. She had to add a quart or more between every single oil change. We would buy a case of 0w-20, and always keep a quart in the trunk, and tuck a small funnel and rag into the engine bay next to the battery. Learn the difference between oil level and oil pressure warning lights. Oil level warning doesn't mean stop right now, you can wait until the next fuel stop. Oil consumption is a symptom of looser tolerances and lighter oils, which all manufacturers are using to try to meet the demand for fuel economy. This is not uncommon. And complexity of repair is definitely universal on modern cars.
  8. My mechanic is pulling the bad transmission out of the SVX today so we can compare with the forester tranny, anything we need to keep from the SVX to use on forester tranny? Thank you in advance
  9. lifting it should be pretty easy but you do have to know how to build a lift kit then you need to find the right angle to correct your alignment for your rig and the amount of lift you want usually between 15°and 20° if your alittle off it's not the end of the world I'm sure there's still guys around selling lift kits maybe contact sjr on here maybe he's still doing them i built my own 5-3 kit about 15 years ago Im still running the napkin lift on the rear of my Impreza it's still not a bad way to go on a budget
  10. Silicone is a no-go for gasoline applications. The best material I have found is Nitrile rubber sheets (aka Buna-N, NBR, etc.) and it is approved for gasoline and many other oils and fuels. I laser cut it to make fuel pump diaphragms for mechanical fuel pumps in my older classic cars. You can get plain sheets or Nylon cloth infused sheets if you need extra strength. I've bought from ebay, McMaster-Carr, Amazon and Grainger in the past. Plain Nitrile should be fine for your fuel tank sender gasket.
  11. I have a 1992 SVX with a bad tranny, I bought a tranny and rear diff from a 1998 forester S automatic, will this be a good swap?
  12. I have a 1992 SVX with a bad tranny, I bought a tranny and rear diff from a 1998 forester s automatic, will this be a good swap?
  13. Some form of aftermarket engine management will definitely benefit your build for best performance and longivity. GD dealt with Link ECUs, others on here have used other brands, many of not all seem to do what’s required of them. Cheers Bennie
  14. Sometimes you just happen to get both lights blow on the high or low beam. Replacing the globes rectified the issue? If not, that’s when to start digging deeper into the problem. Cheers Bennie
  15. I know silicone sealants generally do not do well with fuel, but, I wonder, I use silicone baking sheet for other areas - wonder how the 0.6mm silicone baking sheet would go in the task you ask ?
  16. Last week
  17. Please post back with your choice of material. I am in the same situation with my 79. I managed to find some rubber bladder type of material and I think I just need to snug my nuts down a bit better. But they are so delicate I sure don’t want to bust one of those tiny studs. Maybe that doesn’t read so well but hey laugh a little.
  18. Necro bump. Couldn't find any additional info on this. Long story short, recently acquired an 82 GL wagon, and this sending unit flange is leaking. Couldn't find part 7850 25000 or 25020 anywhere so I figured I'd have to make my own. What do you guys think, maybe get some NBR rubber sheet and cut it out ?
  19. B assembled the rear suspension on the Impreza. To make the Mustang rear calipers fit the Subaru front rotors I turned the rotors a little thinner, about a millimeter total. Second side I had to run a lot slower than the first. Since the opposite side of the rotor wasn't up against the jaws it was chattering at anything above about 100rpm. Also we only had one banjo bolt so I made another one. Will probably eventually get legit banjo bolts and better caliper mounting bolts but they all work well enough for now. Rear suspension and brakes assembled. ABS sensors and parking brake cables just zip tied up for now. Will eventually remove ABS cables and make brackets to connect parking brake cables. Black stuff running down exhaust is carbon washed out of the engine by excessively rich mixture when we first got the engine running. I cleaned up the wiring in the engine compartment, still some work to do there. Ditto the interior. Ready for the first test drive, just have to lower the car. Been on jackstands for way too long. For some reason the cam signal issue is back. Engine still runs but not as smooth as it has been, so I probably need to call Haltech again. On the plus side we drove the car around the block and everything important seems to work. All three pedals, shifter, and steering seem to do what they should. Didn't notice any tire rubbing or bad noises or vibrations. Didn't leak a drop either.
  20. Thanks for following up. Kind of lucky that my 79 with the same brown tartan looks very good still. But I’m always on the lookout for a similar pattern.
  21. Sometimes it’s the simple things that cause the most grief (and wallet pain!). This relay mod is common on the early Liberty/Legacy’s too Cheers Bennie
  22. Moving forward with the reupholster of my 81 GL wagon front seats (only) going to try the Karo Madras 5710 brown plaid from Relicate. Here are some pictures of the fabrics side by side. Fyi if your drivers side seat leans to the passenger side as mine did, caused by pushing on the seat back as you wiggle in, you might have a broken frame near the adjustment mechanism it was a wonder the seat gave any support at all. Oh one more thing to remove the GL headrests you need to take the seat cover off then reach thru the front foam in two places and pull a pin, the head rest will then slide out. There are three rods for hog ring placement, the bottom one is the longest then the middle front has extra curly ends and the back top rod is the shortest one. Construction of the seat is as follows from outside in: Woven plaid material/vinyl sides A cotton or some sort of backing where your rear end sits Plastic but only on the shoulders and back of the seat. Foam molded into the seat springs Steel frame Duplicate pictures are with and without flash
  23. Unhook the battery for 30 minutes or so. If the fault is still present when you turn the key back on it will set again. Can't read the code?
  24. Update, orange clock is working perfectly after more than a year
  25. Starting to become a more roadworthy vehicle little by little. Need one exhaust gasket for the flange at the rear of the Y pipe and then concentrate on brakes. Car now has its hard plates and good for three years on the registration.
  26. 2001 legacy outback standard trans 2.5 Just bought it, $550. Totaled, salvage title. Runs good, pops out of reverse sometimes. CEL rapid flash, won't clear. Is there a way to reset it?
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...