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  1. Yesterday
  2. well.... come back when you have a Subaru lol
  3. I have been having various issue's with my 1987 Subaru GL of the past year regarding performance. I have, in the process, replaced the carb and, most recently, the fuel pump. Before the fuel pump was replaced, it would start up and run, but when pushed it would bog and sounded like it was starving for fuel. I decided the fuel pump needed to be replaced so I bought a basic pump, not a Subaru pump, but it said it should work. I initially wired it backwards, but once I fixed it I tried to get it to turn over. It cranked for a bit, getting the fuel to flow, then when I tried again, all power was gone. The lights on the dash were gone, it wouldn't even click like when the battery is dead but still has that little juice to make a click sound. I checked the fuses under the dash, all fine. I looked at the 3 fusible links I have by the battery and they look fine, but I don't know how to visually see if they are burned out. I attached a battery charger to see if that would help, left if over night and got the same result. Nothing. I just today attempted to jump the car, same result nothing. If the car sits idle for a day or so, the lights on the dash come on initially when I put the key in, but once it gets to the Start position, it all gets wiped out. I'm about at my wits end with this car. I love it and want to keep it going, but this is getting ridiculous. Is it possible the fuel pump is causing this ignition issue??
  4. Damn. Hot damn. Too fast! DAMN!
  5. Here you go: http://www.suberdave.com/USMB/HTKYSA.PDF
  6. a white plug under the dash of my fathers 91 legacy has a red wire burned there is 8 wires in the plug and i got the other wire colors they are blue/white tracer, red/yellow tracer, blk, green/white tracer, white/green tracer,blue/white tracer, black/white tracer, red the haynes manual doesn't show anything about this plug the red wire splits off to two red wires so i am thinking they are the power supply for the ecm. is there a place to download free shop manuals for this car or at least the electrical section?
  7. Subarule

    Hill holder- help!

    Mine always worked great on my '86 GL until I had the clutch & flywheel replaced. Then the hill holder locked up the brakes, so had it disconnected. I'd like to get get it working properly again.
  8. I don't think there were any bulletins on bearing how-to. Bearings aren't any harder than any other press-in bearing, just make sure to press by the outer race, not the inner. I highly recommend buying a press. My harbor freight press cost twice what paying a shop charged me to do one. I've done dozens since then (as well as bushings, u-joints, etc.).
  9. Topics I need info on: 2002 WRX: front wheel bearings Fuel Smell 1999 Forester: timing belt change You can email the files to: car_freak85 at Hotmail dot com Thanks!
  10. i used to own a 91 legacy sedan that i paid 100 bucks for. they sold it to me cheap because the transmission wouldn't shift. i figured i live in town i only need one gear forward anyway. but i took it to a tranny shop for giggles anyway and was told it was bad and it would cost 5000 bucks to fix i declined. went to another shop and was told the tcu was bad and that was 500 bucks, still to much. went to pull and save and bought a used one for 10 bucks and five minutes later it was installed and the trans shifted fine. so the next payday i changed the brakes and struts and did a tuneup and got clocked at 104 on the freeway and i still had pedal left it ran real smooth . then a week later a woman talking on her cell t boned me and wiped out my car.
  11. .02: the wider the gap the better the combustion. From HERE: So, run the widest gap you can that doesn't cause issues - knock, etc. Remember the MFG recommends what works for all their vehicles and commonly available fuel....doesn't mean it's optimum for YOUR car.
  12. Subasaurus

    Hill holder- help!

    about 2 years ago on my 89 GL my hill holder actually failed on me in a weird way, sometimes when at an uphill, the hill holder wouldn't release after releasing the clutch pedal, ended up discontinuing it and just letting it live in the engine bay uselessly, was a cool little feature though i do have to say, reminds me of a Studebaker. i know the cable comes from the front to the rear direction, opposite from a clutch cable on a fork, it's held in place by a U tab, like the one that holds the brake like on the front of an EA82 Strut, there's also a tiny almost impossible to find nut in the rear of it for adjustment, i do have a few examples in my possession if you want some really close up pictures of one?
  13. The shaft and the TC don't seem to be connected by a wire retainer.
  14. Welcome aboard. Send us some pix of "Outback in Great White North!" Aloha.
  15. As noted, go find another P2 2.5, verify history (not overheated, much), do the HG and put in the Roller. Sell that 2.2 to another EJ25D Swapper. We're probably seeing the decline of the swap popularity due to the age of these ol' Subies, but if the 2.2 is still 100% should be worth $350+ in CO?
  16. Try searching...in here: http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/
  17. does my computer need to be bolted up to be grounded?
  18. i need one because i have no spark, cranks fine, fuel pump works i think, just no spark.
  19. I have access to TSBs if you can give me a year and some specs to input I'll try for you.
  20. subpoop

    Hill holder- help!

    just fixed a friend of mines hill-holder, his was frozen so every time he went to use his clutch it froze the brakes. bought a used one at pull and save and new brake rotors and calipers and pads and his gas milage went way up.
  21. Since we don't have ready access to The End Wrench or individual Subaru technical service bulletins, I was wondering if anyone had the TIB that provides information on the front wheel bearing installation. I have a feeling that my local mom & pop garage that I take the hubs/bearings/spindles to is buggering up the installation, causing my front bearings to only last a few thousand miles before making noise. @GeneralDisorder Is this something you have access to? I'm not opposed to buying the correct tool to do this at home, if someone has recommendations.
  22. my 87 has a loose wire under the dash. not sure which one yet but if i reach under the dash with the key on everything lights up. what color is the ground wires under the dash. before i picked this car up the previous owners son got mad at her and grabbed the wires and yanked on them and splashed paint on the car. i hope top get this car running by winter because my pickup is worthless in the snow.
  23. Alrighty, thank you, good to know. Unfortunately the 2000 would be a roller with no motor. Have a solid motor in a garbage vehicle and a solid vehicle with no motor, was hoping I could make something work.
  24. Won't work without custom intake manifold adapters, and won't work at all if the cam/crank trigger wheels don't match. Phase II uses a narrower timing belt and different idlers so the cam sprockets will not swap. The 99 is not a hybrid really - it's still phase I from the pistons on out. Sure it has 52mm rods (which EJ22's already had in phase I), and they moved the thrust and added extra bell-housing bolts. That's not enough to call it a hybrid. Besides - fix the 2.5. the 2000 is a better engine than the 99. GD
  25. Sorry if this is under the wrong topic, making that good ol newb first post. I've picked up a 1999 Legacy Outback, the one that should have the phase 1/2 hybrid EJ25, yet it's been putting around with what appears to be a 96-97 EJ22. Due to more frame complications than you could shake a stick at, I'm considering dropping the motor into a 2000 outback that I can aquire for free. Anyone have any thoughts on this matter? Hoping I'm not getting in over my head with this, considering the 2000 had a phase 2 EJ25 instead of the one year hybrid. Thanks in advance
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