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  1. Today
  2. Run your VIN or call Subaru and ask if all of your recalls and TSBs are up to date. Good grief. That’s terrible. What a wretched safety issue that is. I haven’t seen the auto stop/start feature but that’s unnerving if it’s inoperable. If someone doesn’t know and the sellers 6 month warranty is questionable or they don’t respond well I’d consider having Subaru diagnose it. I would bet they can diagnose this very quickly and probably know the one or two things it’s likely to be without even looking at it. I’m sure they’ve seen it before.
  3. sometimes it is the simple things and O2 sensors can quite often not throw a code right away.. been there
  4. Are you talking about the stub axles? It's a tossup, some are spring clipped and you can just yank them off. Some are circlipped, no other way than opening the trans. The old one's broken anyways, cant hurt trying to yank them out. Put the cups and roll pin back on, pry at them and see if they pop out.
  5. Well at least I avoid the turbo issue as this is NA (I went and bought it), it has 72,000kmn on it (44,000 miles) and was only 10k NZD or 6500 USD, which is a good deal here. The city I live in has a lot of stop start traffic, and one issue that has occurred twice now, 1. I come to a stop with the auto stop turned on, the car stops. 2. When I go to take off again the car won't start, every light on the dash lights up. 3. I have to put the car back into park and restart the engine manually. The car has a 6 month warranty from the dealer, but I would like to know someone else's opinion on what this issue could be before I take it to them and are confronted with their fluff justification. Regarding for oil in the radiator, how often should be checking for this issue ? Thanks
  6. I recently picked up a used transmission for my 2002 L.L. Bean non VDC. The replacement transmission does not have the shaft axle drives coming from the forward differential. Any advice on how to remove the shafts from the toasted transmission and install them in the replacement. Is this procedure possible without taking apart the transmission case? The replacement came from LKQ and I would like to believe they did not take the time to separate the transmission case just to remove the axle shafts. The part number in question is - Shaft Axle Drive - Subaru (38415AA100)
  7. Very interesting car, for sure. Kind Regards.
  8. good to know. just going by looks of that photo, i have one that length, and another about 10-15 mm longer
  9. I have had the inside pipe of the Y pipe cause my noise problems. I have never done an autopsy on the how and why but I found to drill a hole in outer skin that we all see and screw a metal fixing screw through it and either into or against the inner skin. Noise gone, until screw came out. Next screw got silicon sealant to hold it in place
  10. I have been running turbo EA82 since 2006 and still have a love for them. SPFI is only single intake port, where turbo uses the twin intake port mpfi heads. EA81T were single port inlet and they do OK from reports. You could do a suck-it-and-see approach on your spfi set up but what I have read of turbo on NA compression varies from, spun a bearing to 50,000 miles on high boost before it was toast. What makes my EA82 a little more robust in one of my cars is the twin core EA81 radiator (EA81 body with it too , mind you ) Twin electric fans with a better user control is also a help in warmer climates. Give it a shot, no extra boost, pull the initial timing back a bit, like , I think set at 20 normally, try at 10. If you look at the exhaust port you will see there are two threaded holes not in use where current exhaust bolts up. The EA82T exhaust manifold uses these. The EA82T head on the non dizzy side is an mpfi head and has flat cast faces tapped to supply oil to the turbo and a drain back to same head via 5/8" /16mm hose. An spfi head may also be adaptable to give and take oil to and from the turbo or run a T piece from oil pressure switch up front. The drain plug of each head, the non dizzy side is used to supply coolant to the turbo via long pitot style pick up banjo bolt that screws into the drain plug, steel, rottable pipe, then rubber hose to turbo. Coolant then returns to the underside of thermostat housing. I actually have a couple of EA82 spfi intake manifolds here in Australia. I started adapting one for a turbo EA81 idea - used the spfi ECU coolant temp sensor port for the coolant return. You will need to keep your coolant temp sensor, so will need to T in a return somewhere. I started the EA81 turbo idea and nearly got there before concentrating on EA82 for it's superior design and drivability over EA81. I guess people saw EJ having an advantage of EA82 too. I just didn't look that far
  11. thats funny do it man its real easy just make sure to get a reeaaaalllly big turdbo and take lots of pictures and some short video lol i love watching engines go pop why do images of twin turbos poking up though the hood being powered by electric motors keep poping in to my head
  12. i use 3 layers of steel sheetmetal and ring the holes with copper wire and coat it all with copper head gasked dressing they seal the worst headers and there reusable im on round 3 right now and still no leaking back to the ops issue from what it sounds like is pinning or knocking try adding 92 octain gas or retarding the timing a hair if it goes away its a timing issue or a bad plug issue or maybe even carbon build up on the piston creating a hot spot ether way try better gas and or adjusting the timing
  13. ferp420

    opps

    i bought loaded struts that came with aftermarket springs
  14. I had trouble with the gaskets between the head and exhaust Y pipe. I made my own. I used fiberglass body repair mesh. Use a new normal gasket as a template. Start with a piece of aluminum foil. Stack up 4 layers of the fibreglass, and work copper RTV or [higher temp] into each sheet, stacking them. You only need the RTV where the metal clamping areas are, not where the holes will be. Use a piece of .001" brass shim stock for the final layer. Put this assembly between 2 flat plates, and put something like 20-30 lbs on top of it. Let it set for several days. The RTV will cure very slowly. When it's cured, use an exacto knife and or gasket punches to cut them to shape. When installing them, aluminum goes to the head side. Use lock washer. Re check after a drive or 2, to make sure the nuts stay tight. The combo of RTV and fibreglass will squish more than the typical hard gaskets, and seal up. The fibreglass won't burn away, and will protect the RTV from the exhaust gasses. Note - I used the brass because I also made stainless exhaust pipes, and aluminum and stainless do not get along well in the environment involved.
  15. Nice - two birds with one stone! Well except you had to replace both bearings. Timken has an excellent reputation. I don’t think it’s what it once was and I believe their seal quality is less than OEM but chances are in your favor, it’s not like they fail all the time.
  16. You're welcome. The stuttering has gone away as well so that should be a clue as to how bad the bearings were. They put Timkens in so they should be better.
  17. Time to close the loop on this - I had too much going on last fall and it sat over the winter. In retrospect, I'd run down a rabbit hole and gotten lost, thinking that out-of-range manifold vacuum might be affecting injector rail pressure, and that bad vacuum may be a product of maladjusted valves - all of which was just getting too arcane. So I backed up, considered that the only source of parametric combustion feedback is from the O2 sensors, and that (despite them not generating any error codes) it would be stupid not to replace them both on spec - fastest and cheapest thing to try. So I just did that and now it's as happy as a baby in a barrel of t!ts.
  18. Yesterday
  19. Just got it back from a shop. The passenger bearing was about ready to come apart and the driver was almost seized.
  20. daveT's suggestion is pretty good I think, get an engine from car-part.com , MLS headgaskets and new timing belt system components.
  21. Wheel bearing. Other possibilities exist but wheel bearing would be “yep, no surprise with everything you’ve described so far.” Anything else would be “ah okay that happens sometimes”. It doesn’t change sound or feel when you press the brake pedal right?
  22. Update on this. Light has not come back on but was driving at about 70mph and the transmission downshifted for no apparent reason. Went a few more miles then it upshifted to overdrive once again. I was able to pull a few codes using the headlight and trip odometer process. C0045 and C0071.
  23. Do a search on the forum. Many have done it and from what I remember all of them crack the ring lands of the piston - I don’t know if this naturally happens over time with boost or if the builder got boost greed… GD isn’t a wrx guy per-sae, he runs a very successful Subaru specialist workshop and I believe he’s had loads of experience with the EA81 and EA82. Personally I think the EA82 is possibly Subarus worst 4 cylinder engine. Box cams suggest a rush into the over head cam 80’s marketing catch cry. I’d take an EA81 over an EA82 any day. I’d recommend an EJ conversion. From factory the EJ has similar power figures to the factory EA82t - but with much less complication in its build/operation. All the best with your decision and whichever way you go. Cheers Bennie
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