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Got the fans to work by not using the aftermarket ones, had to take apart some belts and pulleys but the oem fans work fine with the ac pressure switch connector jumped. The oem fans pull 3 different wattage all more than the 80w that each aftermarket fan is capable of, I'm glad they fit with the aftermarket radiator.

I'm here from the future because I have the same question. I have a 1993 Subaru Impreza with the EJ18 engine. One of the fittings broke off of this part several years ago. I tried to find a replacement then but couldn't so I epoxied the fitting back on. Well it broke off again today. I think it might be the Evap purge solenoid but the one on my car is adjustable with an allen key and I can't find any part that looks like it. Also, I have no idea why it would be adjustable or how specifically it is supposed to be adjusted correctly. https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_1993_Impreza-18L-MT-4WD-L-Wagon/_54102_6025398/FUEL-PIPE-SUPPLY/G10-061-01.html https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_1993_Impreza-18L-MT-4WD-L-Wagon/Valve-Solenoid--43-2WD-C0-U0--4WD-NO1/49227159/14774AA271.html Can anyone confirm what this is?

Well I’m sure I’m in for an interesting venture with this one. I did however have a small win so far. All of what I was thinking was a transmission problem was cleared up by removing the throttle body and hitting it with some CRC throttle body cleaner and a nylon brush. I drove it around for about 2 hours afterwards. I just got it home and it runs like a new one. I am going to go ahead and change the fluid in it the day after tomorrow though. For $3k I’ll make whatever repairs I need to make on it.

nope, keyless control unit that also does plain central locking, is a black plastic cased boz just below the air vent that blows RHD drivers RHS shoulder region

Yeah those cars have BAD transmission issues. Valve bodies, torque converters, wiring harnesses, and often times the whole transmission. About $8500 for transmission replacement. I tell customers to avoid those models like the plague - the 6 speed manual is the way to go for those years. But they also frequently have head gasket failures resulting in overheating - they used the 770 gaskets from the factory but something about the installation of them didn't work out I guess. Kindof odd actually - it's just the 10-12 Legacy models with the weird final years of the SOHC belt engine that have that problem. Then you stack the CVT failures on top of it and they are absolute piles of trash. Incidentally Subaru is now ranked like 20th for reliability - even below Mercedes an Volkswagen. 😂 https://www.jdpower.com/business/press-releases/2022-us-vehicle-dependability-study

That was how my mom's 12 Impreza started. I think it made it about 8k more miles before it was terrifyingly bad. And now it's parked in my yard awaiting partout. I hope your experience goes better.

possibly keyless control unit? number 15 in the diagram here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/en_s10/type_10/electronic/electrical_parts_body/illustration_2/ (the diagram is for European market, so not positive.. it was either that or USA market)

from memory (not with me at the moment) it may have numbers but not recognised Subaru or Nissan numbering ....good point though. I might have to Google them, or get at again, disconnect and see what does not work

no numbers on it?

It doesn’t seem to have the stall issue, just the stutter I the low in under low load. That only lasts for a fraction of a second . Thanks for the service bulletin. If I have to yank a motor / transmission, it won’t be the first time.

I am sure if I unplugged it I would eventually find out ...looked on wiring diagram, no joy Looks like a resistor unit, too light duty wires me thinks, dash light dimming ? is !999 SF Forester, but likely very common to all EJ era thanks

The CVT's on those are problematic. First and foremost if the TC hasn't been changed it's going to need one. Stab the brakes coming to a stop and I bet it stumbles or stalls: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10140492-9999.pdf

I picked up this beauty in Colorado Springs, temp tagged it in Colorado and drove it home ! 2011 Outback 2.5i Limited, fully loaded ! it has a lunge at low speed/rpm in the simulated first gear range but it it barely noticed except at specific throttle / engine load. I’m thinking that I’ll check the condition of the fluid and decide whether it’s low, worn and foul looking or both before changing the valve body. I currently have no CEL or AT codes posted and no intermittent “Christmas tree” lights. All input, comments and or suggestions are welcome.

Air lock ? I used to have this problem with an ol 96 outback I posted about here several years ago. Once I put the car on ramps and opened the bleeder valves on the radiator I was back in business. I hope you’ve already figured it out good luck

Just to fill those of you in and took the time to provide input on my decision, I did not purchase the above car semi-locally I drove out to Colorado Springs and picked up this beauty for $3k!! 2011 Outback 2.5i limited with all the bells and whistles. It does need a valve body or a fluid change. It has a momentary lunge and low speed/rpm but doesn’t have any other symptoms such as posted CEL

The sooner the better. End of June for sure. Yes, Colorado Springs, CO It's a roller right now and kind of have to keep it that way until it's ready for the crusher.

Found the old ones. I'll reinstall them and see if that solves the problem. If not, this will be my last Subaru.

They are very effective and don't crack around the bolt holes, rattle, or rust like the heat shields. GD

I jumped the gun on this. I was cleaning out the car and found the bracket under the front seat. Is a blanket more effective than the factory shield?

Just get a turbo blanket - get the PTP Lava model - and throw the brackets in the trash. GD

I'm wondering if there's a way to put a Koni-type insert in your old struts?

Well, if anyone is still following this thread, it's June 1, 2023 and one of my replaced front struts is 'Had it', I think. When driving at freeway speed the car jumps to the right when I hit a divit or rough spot on the road and replacement struts are no longer available. This will be my last Subaru if I can no longer get the parts I need. Sad. Fare thee well USMB.

How soon does it have to go ? It keep threatening to take over a friend’s 98 Outback , pretty solid for up here but still from up here so I’d expect I’d want a bunch of stuff from under the vehicle. Still have never put one from that generation on the road. Tried to avoid them but I think I’m going to take this 98 on. Again, been threatening. He says name my price…. So I’m sure it’ll be cheap enough. Theirs is a manual shift. Love that. No longer need’s emissions here. So this car is good to go. You’re in COSprings?

I just finished putting a new engine into an Outback I purchased. It had a trashed motor in it, and the previous owner started to take it apart, then decided it was beyond his scope of abilities. I did get everything except some mounting brackets for the turbo heat shield. Is there a drawing somewhere that shows these, or might one of you folks on the forum have these from a scrapped car? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!

If it's the struts, they're no longer available. I replaced the struts in 2019 and they were hard to find then. I couldn't find the struts for a 4wd and had to use 2wd struts instead. KYB no longer lists them. There was another outfit that sold them too but they say, "Out of stock" and they probably got theirs from KYB. If I'm lucky the old ones my still be in my scrap metal pile. They were a little spongy but they didn't try to kill me. The car only has about 131,000 mi. on it. It was a rare find even years ago when I bought it.