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  2. Exactly, and it can handle a lot more power than the 5 speeds they used in the 90's cars. The first gear in the autos may be higher, but the torque converter gives it a huge leg up. I've seen what 5-speeds have to do to get around off road and I can't imagine a clutch would last long. Plus the center diff paired with the auto is far better off road as it can and will actually lock in a 1:1 ratio. The viscous center in the manual transmission cars does not fully lock or ever give 50% front 50% rear. If you're looking to carry more weight and get a mild lift, I'd suggest checking out the lifted King Springs on primitiveracing dot com. They lift about 1-1 1/4 inches. That's what I plan on doing with my OB as they stiffen and lift both.
  3. Today
  4. on some of the older engines, the screws holding the oil pump in place can loosen up.
  5. I understand where you’re coming from if that’s where you land. I’ve heard all that garbage before too. But it’s not true for 4EATs. I have no idea about nonsubarus so maybe this concept is borrowed from other manufacturers and/or eras (my guess - the 1970s and 1980s like other similar archaic shop ideologies) or manufacturers. Multiple things are happening that create this mindset that’s been around for decades. It may be true of other manufacturers or eras (older 70s and 80s trans). That doesn’t mean it’s true for this specific transmission. Also it’s possible new fluid could amplify already existing issues. Got a weak transmission. Change old fluid. New fluid routinely can help a transmission shift better. On a trans with issues it might make the pre-existing issue more pronounced. It didn’t cause the issue - but it seems like it to someone unfamiliar and desperate for it not to need a new trans. cost/desperation. Engine and trans are expensive. People go through the 5 stages of grief like Homer Simpson when these two topics come up. You can see it on the forum here and other forums. People desperate for some other explanation, eager to blame Subaru or a shop or dealer or fluid. Extrapolate that through these other social realities The only people who “change old fluid with tons of miles on it that shouldn’t be changed” are people who don’t change fluid. Lmao. I’m almost not joking. I’ve seen and know how it happens. They don’t change fluid…until something prompts them too. Most of the people I’m around every week never change the trans fluid in their vehicles. “It ain’t broke don’t fix it” even though they change oil every 3,000 miles. So - They don’t change jt until they suspect there’s an issue and they hope it fixes it but it doesn’t and the trans quickly dies. Keep in mind - Some of these people actually forget the original symptoms, forget the trans was initially problemstic before the fluid change. it was slight and they weren’t certain it was the trans but a noise or shake or shift made them think about it. So they had the fluid changed along with many other things over time snd the details got lost in the mix. They hear someone regurgitate the “don’t change old fluid” mantra - and the light bulb goes off “Oh no I did that and the fluid killed my trans”. Revisionist history sometimes accidentally. Ive even done this accidentally forgetting stuff before but not with transmissions. Something reminds me months later that my assumption was wrong in the first place. And I’ve seen it in other people/vehicles, it’s not uncommon. People buy a new to them used car and change the fluid and the trans dies. Well it was on craigslist for cheap because the previous owner had trans issues. Seen that before too. correlation doesn’t mean causation, but that’s not a skill for most people. We are psychologically programmed to hate uncertainty, gravitate to simple explanations and avoid cognitive dissonance like a crazy ex friend Trans shops don’t rebuild ***4EATs*** and if they do, they shouldn’t or you shouldn’t have it done there. 4EATs done at trans shops are likely to need warranty work. Why - I don’t knew I imagine most arent set up for the scope of the tooling and process but in the end I don’t know. GD probably knows why. I’d install a jdm or used 4EAT with tons of miles before getting a random local rebuild (a major source of anecdotes like this). Some shops want to blame something else or make excuses. That’s a surprise to no one and they will also be more vocal about it. anecdotal - no one saying this as an original source has extensive subaru specific experience or knows the 4EAT very well. Or they’re an outlier. If the internals are so dirty that fresh fluid causes catastrophic contamination that trans was one Jack in the box full of garbage and ready to fail quicker than a plastic nuclear reactor before the fluid change. i have no problem changing 200k old fluid in Subarus. None. it’s because I’m the best Subaru mechanic in the Eastern US….oh wait that’s a correlation not a causation…my bad. Lol In any event - there’s a decades long track record of these ideas getting reinforced to perpetuate this throughout the DIY and shop world.
  6. yeah, left a little early and skipped lunch so, got in a coupla hours sooner than expected. Some good news on the family front, some not great but, that's how it goes. stuck on the highway with a thousand other people outside raton for 15 minutes or so, both sides blocked. Some kind of road construction or bridge work or rock clearing.....dunno. got 26.3mpg, then 24.9mpg on the next 2 tanks. Drove 1518 miles total. Not sure why the variability on the fuel, other than wind and a/c use.
  7. ok, meant to update this a few days ago, but other issues have taken priority (health related, not car related, lol - and no, not covid) anyway, i can confirm the boot DOES just snap in from below the plastic surround... I did not even have to pull that trim off.. just angled the bottom of the boot down into the hole, lined it all up and gently pulled up on the fabric around the edges, and "snap" she just popped into place!! yay!
  8. safe journey, Texan, and hope everything is ok on the home front
  9. 3rd vote for separator plate... very very rare for it to be rear seal itself - almost always that plate
  10. Yesterday
  11. yeah, we also have battery powered hand tools, and the other half picked up a battery powered push (self propelled) mower this summer, when the big rider was having problems.. we had to do something, poor dog was being engulfed by high grass when we let her out to go... =P taller than her, and she is a tallish medium sized dog but a battery powered car, for us, is not practical at all.. we live too far out for it to be, and with a harsh winter climate too (notoriously hard on batteries of all kinds)
  12. Mines a 78 and has one, not sure what happened to the other. Looks like it just had holes drilled out.
  13. Warren99

    New Brat Owner, Need info

    Didn't get a pic but saw on the other side of the yellow paper that it was sold for $5,802.
  14. Warren99

    New Brat Owner, Need info

    Wow, so the dealer paperwork has like everything like I even found the "Pre-Delivery Inspection and Adjustment Service Check List," signed and in great condition, notice how the tachometer and clock don't have a check, and mine is lacking those. Long list of pics but it shows everything I mentioned in the last post along with some of the paperwork. https://ibb.co/K2Cv7Vw https://ibb.co/4mdj2yZ https://ibb.co/Zz6YMxL https://ibb.co/HzMdk5Y https://ibb.co/bN38n8G https://ibb.co/T8fjz1w https://ibb.co/pW7M0cP https://ibb.co/7VgYSx2 https://ibb.co/SdsSwYD https://ibb.co/G047xV7 https://ibb.co/MVw4Lqq https://ibb.co/4Y38pgH https://ibb.co/hC7cjHd https://ibb.co/pXzL8mx https://ibb.co/2qSBpm1 https://ibb.co/YL9JWZV
  15. Warren99

    New Brat Owner, Need info

    Both tailights are uncracked and unfaded, both Subaru floor mats are in decent shape, have 3 of the 4 mudflaps, have all center wheel caps but none have the Subaru logo part still, the passenger seat appears to be in good condition, I don't know what you meant by the jump seat belt "cover", but the belts are there, the bed carpet is there but has seen better days.
  16. Warren99

    New Brat Owner, Need info

    https://ibb.co/cNrWbK1 https://ibb.co/FHwvsMF https://ibb.co/gj1d4tm https://ibb.co/XCJrXqN https://ibb.co/C5bvpyN https://ibb.co/wKTCjjR https://ibb.co/9hpgt0k Tried putting each one into the insert other media thing but it would just turn red, so here are the the links hopefully you can see it.
  17. I’m not sure you could get the four spoke steering wheel in the 77/78 Brat or 4WD wagon. My catalogs are at storage now. Saw your pics in the other post. Looks like a nice base and you have the air deflector.
  18. moosens

    Brat brake calipers

    Not far from you in Scranton or thereabouts is Carl Porter. He’s like I was in that he’s gathering NOS and mostly has 80’s parts. Find him easier on FB in the Subaru groups like “4x140 or GTFO” , USMB , And Vintage Subaru Parts etc , and another one too - brain farting ... I think he’s here too but not too often.
  19. Subasaurus

    New Brat Owner, Need info

    the 2 spoke steering wheel is odd for a GL, i thought GL's had 4 spoke steering wheels? mine is a GL but has only a speedometer but no tachometer, has the factory A/C, the dealer added A/C had control knobs above the shifter but below the radio. being AM/FM tells me it was mid trim or top trim. post your imagess on imgbb, then link them here and they'll appear as a full photo here. -some rare stuff on a brat that are hard to find for your knowledge- all 4 mudflaps, centercaps with the logo still in the center of them, uncracked tail lights, especially the passenger one, jumpseat seat belt covers, windshield, front rotors, front calipers, -some unrealistic rare stuff to have on the brat- uncracked dashboard, an original radiator that doesn't leak or been repaired lol, antenna that isn't bent, original seats that aren't torn, original floor mats, original carpet in the bed of the "truck", do post pictures!!
  20. Looking for a new/remanufactured set of calipers for my ‘85 Brat. Every source I’ve tried is saying out of stock, as is the supplier. Does anyone have a source for them? Also, what would be the correct part number of the aftermarket source you may have?
  21. There were a few people at work with jobs paying a buck or so over minimum that were checking around for used cars and ended up buying new or nearly new to the tune of $15-$20K or more, they will be making installment payments forever, nailed down as wage slaves. I would not wish that on anyone. The wastefulness and throw away economy is one of the big reasons for global warming and many problems in our country. And what happens if they are at fault in a car accident without comprehensive insurance? They still have to make the payments and if the car is totaled they have to think about getting another one.
  22. Warren99

    New Brat Owner, Need info

    Manufactured in January of 78 lol. Also forgot to mention in the glove box it still has the dealer folder with stuff like owners manual, warranty cards, insurance, etc, still haven't looked through it but I'm sure there some information in there. And it has a 2 spoke steering wheel and does not have the 8 spoke wheels, did that only come with DLs?
  23. Yep. Likely the rear separator plate. It's updated to a stamped steel plate which requires different bolts. Dorman makes a kit, or get them from your local dealer. Clutch application didn't really change. Likely the only difference is clamping force/torque holding. 2.5 would be a hydraulic-operated, where 2.2 would be cable. But they should both be push style... Exedy makes the best stock-replacement clutches, IMHO. Although, I've been pretty happy with my $40 ebay clutch kit I put in my '00 Outback about 40k miles ago...
  24. Rear Seals are usually NOT the leak source. The seperator plate on the back of the engine needs to be resealed. If it's the plastic one, Subaru has a replacement metal plate. Early ones were aluminum. Don't touch the rear seal unless it damaged or you can confirm it's the source of the leak. Most folks have more issues after replacing the rear seal. Having the sleave kit is nice. No way to tell if you need it until the engine/trans is pulled. The belt should be fine, another 20K to 60K left on it. Did you change all of the idler pulleys on the T Belt? if not, I'd to them now while the engine is out. Valve cover gaskets. Oil Pump reseal and rear cover plate screws torqued properly.
  25. Hello, 98 sub outback legacy wagon 5sp. I have to do a clutch and rear seal (what other possible causes(locations) could create oil on clutch??). Great vehicle... about 228k on her.... I did a timing belt about 60k ago..... and well, I knew this when I bought it...... the motor was changed to a 2.2L(good motors) first question..... not exactly sure what year my 2.2L motor is....... from the looks of the the Contitech Pro series plus part#(PP172LK2) (the kit I put on 60k ago) I am thinking 97-98 2.2L motor Considering a Sachs clutch kit: 2.2L SACHS KF73801 oversized bearing and retainer sleeve SACHS KF73803 2.5L SACHS KF73802 oversized bearing and retainer sleeve SACHS KF73804 Does the 2.2L and the 2.5L(original motor) Use same clutch and accessories...... ?? The numbers are different.... more springs on 2.2L ......size is the same........ number of teeth are the same Thoughts on differences?? So Looking at clutch kits..... Any recommendations? brands etc. etc. other than the Sachs And being that the motor is out...... I should do the timing belt.... ????????? BUT these kits are crazy in price now........... I know there is 60k on the belt..... Suggestions?? Continue to use the hardware??? replace just belt... with a new contitech belt????? thanks, Mick
  26. thanx, leaving Amarillo soon. Probably skip lunch and get back home asap as my wife said my MIL is very ill. Not unexpected but she may need me to take her to visit her Mom or fill-in watching the grandson, etc.
  27. They have been, and likely still are in many places, heavily subsidized by taxpayer dollars. G'mint picking winners in the market place. 1/2 the total electric cars sold go to California. State an local subsidies and generally battery-friendly climate. I don't consider myself anti-electric anything. I have a lot of battery powered tools and batt lawnmower. But let the market decide.
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