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I call dibs on any change in the ashtray 😉

I’ve got a leaky windshield and would like it reinstalled on my XT6 Any tips on saving existing trim/clips? How much problem do you guys have with trim and clips breaking during removal?

Ok finally nutted this one out. Had the wiring extension on my cam angle sensor the wrong way around. Idles minty smooth and sounds real meaty when revving it now! Cheers Bennie

Update: So I got it running this week and I honestly don’t know how it fixed itself. When it was idling for those 10-15 seconds I just held the throttle open and sprayed starter fluid in there and kept it alive for about 30 seconds. Then when it died it sounded like it pre detonated and made a knock. Thinking I messed it up I went and started it again and it ran fine no problems with dying or anything. Idled at 3k but I let it warm up and then took it down to 800-1000rmp. The car was definitely running rough though so I decided to mess with the timing a bit and got it to where I think it’s supposed to be however now that I messed with that the car doesn't want to start anymore at all. It just turns over forever. I smell fuel so I don’t think it’s the same problem as it was before.

Hubs, Brakes, struts and lower control arms Sold today.

You are not giving us any information. I assume your having trouble filling the tank? If so, your Evap system has issues and must be evaluated. What codes is it throwing?

Only reason to post today is for good karma, good mojo, whatever you’d like to call it just generally good spirits from the once mighty USMB crowd. Funny how things happen. Lost parts that finally show up. Frost has now become the norm overnights so I’m pretty much past my goal, well past really but given the adjustments for life’s events I was hoping to at least be done and have the car running before any real snow. So far I’m still within that margin. Today I should be in proper shape to start this car for the first time in ?? Maybe since 1989 for the car and likely since 2005 for this engine I’m using. No need to post although the cheers will be appreciated. As long as I posted here that’s probably enough to spark the magic. I doubt it’ll be a first crank and run affair. But we can hope. I have to admit to being a bit of a hack at this point in regards to the carburetor. I truly should have lifted the float chamber top and at least sprayed the heck out of it. I’ll have all on stand by and that gasket for the float lid and then some. Hoping I spray carb cleaner in the fuel input and down the throat and get lucky. But I expect that float and it’s valve will be stuck or sticky enough they’ll need attention. Here’s to the weekend ! Cheers!

Hubs and halfshafts removed and in Parts. Passenger side rear stuck in the hub, soaking it. 99 Trans with spin-on filter remove and available. Brakes and rotors removed and available.

Yes, Colorado Springs, Colorado 80919. I think the trans is going today. I will pull the axles and hubs... In storage!

Ok since there’s been zero contact or update from Micah or aselby I went ahead and applied their build application/idea to an EJ205 setup. I’m not done yet as I’ve got an NA EJ202 block and matching heads as the test mule running all the turbo gear from a 2002 SF GT forester - which I’m not sure if this model was sold in the US. It’s basically the GD WRX setup but with a TF035 turbo. I’ve got it running which is a great feeling but I also have a misfire on cylinder 1 and a check engine light I can’t read (I need to splice in the diagnostics plug as I got a bit trigger happy with the wire cutters). On cylinder 1!I’ve checked the coil pack, swapped for a good running one on another cylinder, same for the spark plug but the issue remains with cylinder 1. Wiring continuity for the coil pack and injector checks out from either unit to the ECU. Valve clearances are good/on point. Compression on each cylinder, engine cold is: Cyl 1 = 185psi Cyl 2 = 200psi Cyl 3 = 210psi Cyl 4 = 205psi It seems the HG issue is on cylinder 1 but that compression doesn’t seem poor enough to induce a misfiring cylinder to the point that disconnecting the coil’s trigger doesn’t change the engine’s behaviour at all What I haven’t done is swapped the injector to another cylinder to see if the issue moves with the injector, that’s next to do. I can hear the injector clicking using a piece of dowel held against it when the engine is running. Disconnecting the coil plug doesn’t change the idle at all, or how it revs. Does anyone have any insights as to what the issue might be? I’ve cut down the loom with the only things not hooked up are the temp sensor for the deleted up pipe cat, the neutral switch and those random wires that go to dash switches such as the rear demister etc. I don’t have the fuel temp sensor in the fuel tank hooked up but haven’t heard of this being an issue before. This wiring loom and ECU combo ran fine with the complete DOHC EJ205 still in the Forester before it was pulled out and I started playing with it all. Cheers Bennie

Larry , is this yours or a local ? For that money I’d gladly buy that transmission and some axles and maybe more. But I’m not going to be able to drive by anytime soon.

I'll post it in Craiglist as well. 98 Subaru Legacy Outback Part-out, Fits 96-99 Subaru - auto parts - by owner - vehicle automotive sale - craigslist

Just being an old ea81 I’d go through a few items, maybe one at a time and test after each. There’s a few changes as the EA81 goes on but yours may have the black plastic flying saucer looking thing which is upstream from the carb. One recorded event was that plastic breaking apart and minute bits and even chuncks getting into the carb. Also the flaps on the air suction valve. Four Phillips screws on the metal box with hard metal tubing. Check those flaps for serious degradation at the lower edge kind of like an old carburetor slide if you’ve ever seen a lawnmower or motorcycle carb. Heat causes expansion so then can create leaks. Spray some wd40 or carb cleaner around the base of the carb as it’s warmed up and running and see if the idle levels out. Several folks here still active with EA 81s so you’ll get more advice soon.

I am new to the carburetor club and am having some issues with starting my 1981 gl wagon. I've had it for a couple months now and haven't really had any issues with it running other than a weird sort of hiccup when I'm at a stoplight or in park and the car is fully warmed up. However last Saturday I replaced the sparkplugs and was looking at a few other things, so I removed the air cleaner and took off those 5 vacuum lines. After putting the new plugs in (which were the NGK gapped at .044 the old plugs were a range of .032 up to .038) I put everything back together and when I turned it on it idled fine no misfire, however it does idle a bit high around 1500 then it will slowly increase up to 2000 then just lose power and die. Even feathering the gas does not help it and seems to die regardless after about 10-15 seconds. I have also replaced the fuel filter on the car that same day but a little later after running into this problem but that did not help either.

Perfect info , thanks very much. I’m comfortable now. Pretty sure there’s an early 1800 in my stash but the one I had grabbed first would be off that chart. Looks the same so I’ll try that first.

This pdf only covers Subaru to 1980 but there were a lot of Hitachi carbs using the same solenoids. http://tomco-inc.com/Catalog/idlesolenoids.pdf http://tomco-inc.com/CarbCatalog.htm

Almost a week exactly. Same thing on his other post.

Looking to maybe swap in a better solenoid (sometimes called switch) and maybe use existing stock from one of the various carbs I have. I can easily grab one that appeared to be mid to later 80’s

I originally asked on this issue, car was done in a couple months anyway. A friend thinks the Legacy Subarus are more attractive as he finds the Foresters unattractive. I asked him why? He said they look like old folks vehicles.

Could a remedy just be keeping the gas cap loose? Edited to add: I'm using a non-Subaru gas cap which may be the issue. I tried loosening the cap, no difference.

C.Fan - might be the front cooling fans, but would think that would be in fuse under the hood. Note: I just read that there can be one fuse for a Relay and another for the Power. Cargo socket would (likely) be the rear '12v' power socket. Personally, I'd just tap into the '12V plug' shown. I've installed 3 dash cams and never had an issue blowing it when I used the 12v and dash cam simultaneously.

Do I need the fuse #1 R FOG/C FAN TRAIL and #13 12V PLUG? I don't think my car even has rear fog lights and I don't have any trailer hitch on my car. It's a 2005 subaru legacy. The other fuse online says its a cargo socket? I don't know what that is. Ideally I'd like to just install the dashcam into fuses that are for parts of the car that I don't ever use at all.

Your Coupe is really Awesome! ... Glad to see you around here. Greetings from Honduras, Kind Regards.

The heads must be 251's, be sure to use MLS factory turbo head gaskets. The PCV arrangement may need to be modified. Pistons should be ok although new rings and cleaning the drain back holes in the pistons is always a good idea.

Ok I managed to find what I was looking for. The pulley was separated from its holder. Fresh bearing and we’re back in business. This thread can be deleted. Cheers!