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  1. Today
  2. Key is likely shot. Or like Larry mentioned. Ours did the same thing with the covers. Scrap the mechanic. Keep the car.
  3. Looks like the Damper separated and walked back into the cover. I'd pull it apart and check the components. If it's just the crank damper you can inspect the shaft and key and replace it. If the Timing belt is close to due you may as well do it and all the idler pulleys.
  4. Yesterday
  5. This is my brothers car… mechanic said the crank pulley was digging into the timing cover and he needs a new engine. I’ve never seen this … any thoughts? Does this alone mean the motor is toast? 05 legacy 2.5 … probably 150k on it now.
  6. Добрый вечер! Подскажите каким образом связаться с админом интернет-форума, намереваюсь купить рекламу своего нашего сайта - порно со зрелыми
  7. It happens. Aftermarket arent as sturdy, can end up with kinks and collapsed bends, and ends not entering and exiting the same angle as the inlet or outlet they’re bolting too, or not working at all. It could also be confusion over naming conventions/listings. Some listings are poor and will show 4 cylinder parts for a 6 cylinder, etc Aftermarket has issues in general. Its unsurprisingly worse with less common engines/models like Subaru H6s.
  8. OldieSubie

    1981 DL 1800 wiring help

    Hey 6 Star, I'll post the pictures very shortly. Also, I was referencing the Service Manual that was provided in this link: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old%20Models--/
  9. Lack of payments and the ability to fix most (or all) things yourself is a big reason for the old car habit..Man, is it hard to break! Same problem in "Subaru Country". They just aren't in the JY anymore at any real frequency. That said, the internet has probably kept these cars alive. When I did my recent timing belt/water pump/radiator job (thanks to this forum ), I bought parts for literally pennies on the dollar compared to locally. They're so cheap, it was "worth the try". This is so true..You can get ANY part for most old GM's from pretty much any restoration catalog. People willing to do their own work and parts availability basically means you can keep it forever. I understand Subaru not making parts in perpetuity, but don't people put Subaru engines in VW's and planes? It's not like there is no market at all. This isn't really an apples to apples comparison. I'd take my old Subaru wagon over the equivalent modern day econobox any day- Prius, Sentra, Aveo, or whatever it is. The fact that your car could possibly be fixed says something about how it was built. Today's equivalent cars would already be junked. You sure something else wasn't going on with your seat? Seats are still bolted to the floorboards in even modern stuff. In the past when they were there, I saw vintage Subarus in the junk yard that took massive hits in the rear but the seats didn't come out of the floor...?
  10. I could definitely see a shop not wanting to waste time trial fitting aftermarket hoses of questionable durability.
  11. 6 Star

    1981 DL 1800 wiring help

    Photos of what you have going on with the wiring would be very helpful. Don't have any photos on-hand of my own to show at the moment... Do you have a Haynes Manual? Would recommend volume 681 for 1980-1988 Subaru 1600 & 1800
  12. i dunno about that, Bennie... when we went to fix the hatch wiring on the partner's 06 Outback, had to pull a good 3/4s of the trim just to drop one corner of the liner to get at the wiring harness
  13. john in KY

    Rear Hub/Bearing Replacement

    Thread in 2 longer bolts and whack them with a hammer and it'll come out. Just did both rears this way.
  14. According to Subaru, no. There are internet sources for the solenoid - even Amazon. But there aren't any trustworthy vendors that I've found and the reviews are pretty mixed. Many people report repeat failures within days, weeks, or months with aftermarket solenoids. The sure bet is to get a valve body from Subaru. All of them have TC solenoid failures. My local dealer keeps 7 of those valve bodies in stock right now due to very high demand. It is a very easy job though. Those are top loaders. You pull the intake and throttle body and the valve body drops right into the top of the trans. Anyone that knows which end of a wrench to hold can do it. It certainly doesn't need a "trans shop" - whatever that means...... incidentally I really don't see much use for that level of specialization. I've repaired more Subaru transmissions than most "Transmission Shops". Better to have a someone that's brand familiar than a generic shop that claims to handle all transmissions. IMO. Most "trans shops" in my experience are not trustworthy. They prey upon the fact that automatic transmissions are basically Magic to 99% of the population and they know that if you're in their house you already basically suspect the trans is the problem if not completely toast...... it's real easy to scam people in that situation because chances are they have no idea nor do they even know anyone that has a basic clue about the JFM that takes place between the engine and the prop shaft. Back in the day when you needed a hydraulic schematic and someone that has experienced about 25 years of trial and error jamming micro-drill-bit holes into Turbo 350's, 400's, 700R's, and 'glide's - it was a thing. There's a (very) few guys like that still around - most are building 400's and 'glide's for the drag and street outlaws scene's. Anymore though that level of knowledge is not required as everything made since the 90's is computer controlled and only needs a good understanding of the fundamentals of operation and a keen eye for proper assembly. GD
  15. The shims are labeled. It's etched into the side of them. You check lash with feeler gauges and then you order different shims if any of them need adjustment. The shims are REALLY small though. As in you'll easily lose them if you drop one. Think of a disc about 1/4" in diameter and a few 16th's thick. GD
  16. That is certainly true! And with the later models you don’t have to strip all of the rear interior out from what I recall. The Gen1 wagon is ridiculous to get the roof lining out of! Cheers Bennie
  17. Yeah maybe. But when someone jumps on a forum and expect a quick response like it’s Facebook the second post comes across as ungrateful/arrogant/sarcastic to me (like a pissed off student that doesn’t get their way) - considering they haven’t taken the time to give us any detailed info to work with and a generic title. Kind of giving nothing, and wants what they want yesterday! I’ve seen it time and time again - only to never log in again. @Triox64 - no hard feelings mate. Good to see you’re back and I hope to read more threads and posts of yours in the future. Stress does weird things to us at times. When posting please try to include all relevant details for forum members to help you out the best we can. Many of us are backyarders. GD knows his stuff through his workshop knowledge, he’s like a FSM of all models rolled into one! All the best with those shims. A micrometer may be needed (shims should be labelled though) as would a set of feeler gauges. Try looking for an online FSM to read the procedure. If starting from scratch I think the procedure would be: pre-pull down take all your gap measurements, write them down for each valve then pull apart. After this, some maths to work out what shims are needed to get the desired gap. Refit with shim changes, remeasure and pull apart, repeat if necessary until gaps are within spec. Cheers Bennie
  18. Hey guys and gals, Im a new time member with a new-to-me 1981 DL 1800 Station Wagon 4WD. And I am having issues getting my wipers, radio, A/C, and radiator fans to work. A previous owner Jerry rigged a wire to bypass the temp sensor on the radiator and also Jerry rigged a relay where the three Fused wires go. My question is: does anyone have pictures of a stock fused wire area in the engine bay? I looked on the digital service manual that was provided on this forum...but a ton of electrical pages are missing/corrupt. I just need a reference to what is stock and possibly fix these issues. Also, I have a fuse that keeps blowing....from the wires (blue and blue/red?) they look like the A/C fuse. Any help would be super appreciated! I will attach pictures later when I get better lighting.
  19. Last week
  20. He has it into a good Trans Shop. GD if it's just the TC lockup solenoid can you change just it instead of the complete valve body? Thanks, Larry
  21. Thanks... So, I'm gonna need a micrometer, I take it?.. Wasn't sure how critical it was, just knew the required clearance.
  22. You're probably right on the title. I'm just a little stressed out, as it's primary means of income. And, I haven't found anything relating to it my issue over several platforms, somehow.
  23. You can juggle them all you want but since the shims on those engines are TINY and must go back on the correct valve you best measure everything if any of those got mixed up. Best to measure all the lash and adjust any shims that need it anyway. GD
  24. We only use OEM hoses at my shop. Aftermarket fit like garbage and often require trimming to avoid hitting fans, pulleys, etc. GD
  25. Mccaw64

    Backroad Beater

    the previous owner had timing gears/belt redone at 156,890 , water pump thermostat, at 158,190 (all records from dealership came with the car), the car has 188790 on it now, I serviced it when i got it, checked all fluids, and tuned it up, i'm thinking its good for another 100,000
  26. 1 Lucky Texan

    Backroad Beater

    take care of your cooling system, tires, and timing belt system and you should be good for a long time!
  27. Mccaw64

    Backroad Beater

    I bought my 97 impreza outback sport to beat around in ,haul my yacks, and drive back and fourth to work. With in a couple weeks i was very impressed with the old ride. 29 mpg, and it had very well kept Currently I've replaced the factory horn with a set of hella horns, and putt a set of J racks atop of it to haul my kayaks. Thinking of a suspension lift ,and some supplemental lighting as well, we'll see, but as of right now i love my subaru.
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