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You don't need the exact alternator. I've thrown a '18 sti alternator in my 03 wrx. Just get the matching pigtail connector and splice it into the harness. Newer alternators have 3 wires, only two are used if it's an older model. As long as the alternator physically fits. You might have to get creative if the positive terminal is located differently between models. I'd say pull all the fuses and relays. Only leave enough in so the engine can start and run.

You mentioned it's coming off your usdm engine and not new. If the old engine had any bearing or piston issues, chances are high the cooler's already contaminated. Look more closely into reusing the cooler and decide for yourself. FWIW, I'm not running any factory oil cooler on my EJ257 swapped car. It's been at least 8 years now. No heat issues if you're worried about that.

post some pictures maybe

it's english http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Impreza/2013/Impreza and XV Crosstrek Service Manual/

not sure on legacies, but on my imprezas, the ujoint bolts are reachable in the engine bay. if you unhook the steering column from the inside and let the wheel rest on the front seat. there's enough play to unhook the ujoint and flip the wheel around. do it with the battery unplugged because airbags

I've never used evoscan before, but it looks like the error message says the laptop can't even see your usb adapter. It looks like a problem between the laptop and adapter itself. Do you have a Windows 7 laptop to try it on? I'm looking at the evoscan web page and it doesn't say anywhere that it supports Windows 10

Yeah, the orings far away from the compressor rarely fail if left untouched. Though if you already loosened them, might as well replace them since you're there. Get an oring assortment box from wherever is convenient. The expansion valve, probably a quick glance will tell if you need a new one. If it's gunked up, looks corroded, just pick up any generic one that fits. You could try freezing it to see if it closes, it's probably not worth the effort. Oh the schrader valves could leak, though those are easily replaceable and can be done anytime.

You'll have to access it through the glovebox. Take out the entire fan/duct assembly to make life easier. Once you do that, there's a white cover with 3 or 4 screws holding it on. It's in the rearmost center console, near the floor. You'll be working around the passenger airbag, unplug the battery beforehand. There's a single nut that hangs the fan assembly way up near where the airbag is. Probably a cable bundle hanging from it. The expansion valve is sandwiched between the evap and external lines, when putting it all back together, get a helper to push on the engine side while you push from the cabin side. Try not to depend on the tiny bolts to pull everything together, it's easy to crossthread them. Other common places for leakage are the orings on the compressor and wherever there's a rubber hose to pipe coupler.

Find a local used tire center. Bring a tape roll measure or probably get by with string. Measure the circumferences of the tires. I think 1/4" difference is within specs for most cars.

Yeah, search for balljoint boots.

Just vent to atmosphere, it's a schrader valve on the low side. like a car tire, put something in there and press the pin to release. Maybe 1/2 second burst and try testing again. Do it sparingly though, probably stop by the 5th time if nothing changes. There's not much refrigerant in these cars, usually you'll get out 90% of it if you hold the release for 10 secs. The rest comes out in less than 30 secs

Likely compressor, but also other things to check. Let's assume the system is somehow overcharging and causing enough back pressure to seize the compressor. It could also be blockage or a kink in the lines. Let off some gas a bit at a time and see if things improve. Since the worst case is replacing the compressor anyways. And if you do end up taking it apart, consider taking time to remove the expansion valve and look at the oil that comes out of the evap core. Dark and black is not the best, but normal wear and tear. Poke something in the lines like a pipe cleaner or qtip, if there's clumpy stuff or sludge, that's what's causing the clogs. Usually replacing the entire evap core is less hassle than flushing. Get a box of those assorted green hbnr orings beforehand.

I have a 98 OBS, it's the impreza version 2.5l sohc slightly higher compression frankenmotor, but likely same ac system. The initial kick in sometimes makes a squeak noise, but engine doesn't even flinch in power. Doubt it's the flywheel. If you're in gear already all the weight of the drivetrain plus pulling the vehicle is a bit bigger than just a 10lb lighter flywheel. It's probably more electrical and sensors than physical. If you want to make sure, just loosen the ac belt so it lightly grips the pulley. Next time the ac kicks in if it really is the pump seizing up, the belt would make slipping noises and you'd lose less power. Doubt it though, compressor pumps either work or make horrible noises before seizing up. I'm just guessing at this point, I don't know either, but could an overcharged system do this? Also if the clutch is somehow shorted out, would the coils pull so much amps it makes the electrics go haywire?

Do you have a low pressure light or oil pressure gauge installed? Rod knock is easy to diagnose on subarus. With engine warmed up to normal temps, rev it up really quick and snap the throttle shut with your hand. You might hear light tapping on a worn engine, which is okay. You'll definitely know if it's knocking. If that test seems ok it's likely the tensioner or something wrong with oil pump/pickup tube.

Scale method is simplest since you already got the cylinder. Just figure out how many oz hc-12a is equivalent to r134a and always start from vacuum. Put the cylinder upsidedown on the scale, with the engine off, run the liquid into the high side and get close to final weight. (Edit: Precharge from the high side with engine off always. Make very sure the high side manifold is closed tightly before starting the AC.) Flip over the cylinder and start the a/c. You can ease into the final weight from the low side with the a/c running. With no scale and gauge only it's too easy to overfill a system and ruin the compressor. Especially if the compressor was already worn and you thought the gauges read correctly at 1500rpm per service manual. The system could be overcharged to get a good reading and the next time you rev the compressor locks out. Looking around the web, one site selling it says, "One 6 ounce can of FrostyCool 12a Refrigerant is equivalent to 15 oz. of HFC-134a & 17 oz. of CFC-R12." Guessing most subarus use around 17oz r134a, you'd need to add 6.8oz HC-12a