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The fuse box is right there. No need to splice wires, you can use tap fuses to get power for that area. https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&tbm=isch&q=tap+fuse

Coin thing means the heads were worked on at a machine shop. Likely engine already had a head gasket job in the past.

If you're in this far already, might as well take off the pistons and replace the rings. You don't have to split the block for this. I've used NPR rings in the past since they sell pregapped sets. But seems like prices for EJ22 rings are insane now, 200-400 for a set of rings?! Used to be 50. Dunno who makes quality pregapped sets these days?

Oh wow, now something new to worry about.

Was browsing youtube and came across videos about this. Didn't realize counterfeit ngk plugs were a thing. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=counterfeit+ngk+spark+plugs There's a lot to process but hope it helps someone in the future.

On my 98 impreza outback sport, it came with a "subaru factory alarm" sticker on the window. The keyfob had the subaru logo. But taking things apart it looked like a generic code-alarm unit. It was wiretapped into the harness, no plugs on the car. There was a subaru security booklet that came with the car. I bought the car used sometime in 2017. Guessing subaru rebadged the code-alarm units as a dealer installed option back in the day.

Maybe it's not brakes but balljoints or some other suspension bits? Could be that braking puts load on the suspension and stops the rattling. Oh just saw the part where you found some caliper play by hand. Could be a worn wheel bearing causing pad knockback as the rotor wobbles when you go through bumps.

The hose blew before. If you take that into account, ~25% yes and 75% other possible factors lead to it. Likely system was already clogged and the hose was the fuse. If the hose didn't blow and the system was low on refrigerant and all they had to do was add more. 75% yes it's likely overcharged.

Easier to tighten the support bolts in the air. Leave the big nut for last.

It's conical and not press fit, but likely be seized in there. Simplest way is undo the cotter pin and knock it out with a pickle fork. The oem front-rear bushing has the rubber fused to the outer casing and the center pin. The rubber is not solid and has some empty chambers. The center pin does not rotate freely, but does have some give. Over rotating it either way would eventually rip the rubber. This is for oem style bushings, aftermarket poly ones do rotate in the center and don't care how you tighten them. That reminds me, the captive nuts in the frame, if you're in a rust area those like to crossthread when you're tightening. Blow out the holes and run the bolts in and out of the frame to make sure they're smooth before attaching everything.

1. It's safer to pop out the lower ball joint and remove tension from the LCA. It could be done without this step, but you're going to need another jack and/or prybar to line things up. 2. If you popped out the ball joint, you can just unbolt the rear bushing and not worry about anything popping in tension. Unhooking the swaybar endlink would give you more room to work if necessary. 3. Scribe the line and copy it to the new bushing if you intend to final torque the big bolt with the car in the air. Or you could snug up the bolt, lower the car to the ground, then final torque it there.

You could, though depending on the led and resistor picked, it may not light up at all if there's a fault or light up all the time when there's no fault. It might not detect the case of the alternator sending overvoltage as the led doesn't light up in reverse current situations.

Nope not for $1500. You'll need intake, exhaust manifold, nonturbo computer with immobilizer key, engine wiring harness, likely rip out the dash to get wiring done.