idosubaru

LOL LOL LOL I knew you’d ask about that price! There are at least two sources for cheaper batteries. Keep looking. Until last year I paid $60 for batteries at advance auto. Use a $40 online discount code on $100 battery, buy online and pick up in store. I’ve done it on my phone in the parking lot. The code was TRT41, I used it dozens of times. But that code is gone and their prices went up. You’re not nearly excited enough about the free windshield wiper fluid.

Should have hit the parts website first. All 1988-2002 EA82, ER27, EG33, EJ and EZ auto trans have the same stub shaft and circlip. Circlip: 805329010 Stub shaft Part Number: 38415AA070 Supersession(s): 38415AA030; 38415AA080

All this money talk and you’re buying wiper fluid?! You're in for a treat! Many gas stations have FREE squeegees, find one, or carry a box of DIY wet free napkins from McDonalds! free and take less time than battery research, equipment, and blowing up batteries with salt, and it’s free free free! I commend your focus on data. Get some good data and let the world know. data driven, useful, and economic info is good. Keep in mind battery life is erratic and statistically a sample size of a few is all but meaningless. If my battery lasts 5 years and cost $74 that’s .00074 cents per mile, one of the most benign costs of vehicle ownership. NICO genius boosts = who cares when I replace my battery! maximize battery life with no risk of stranding, multiple uses and functionality, all in a tiny package. Win win win win win......

I need an XT6 automatic front axle stub. All XT6 have the 4EAT trans and same spline count as EJs. Are the stubs the same as EJs?

Subaru parts are built by other companies like NTN, NSK, etc to Subaru’s specifications. These companies can then also supply those to other companies for resale. The quality doesn’t have to be the same for Subaru supplied parts and aftermarket supplies parts for the exact same part. but Subaru is small, and parts market not discerning enough, to make it worth their time to do anything but make one part for both. Though storage, packaging, delivery, and other non manufacturing qualities factors could skip Subaru QA. But this is all uncertain conjecture...moving along.... that doesn’t matter - the point is that yes those parts are available from other companies and yes you can often find the Subaru OEM pulleys aftermarket. Like AISIn kits. One issue is suppliers putting together timing kits don’t keep using the same company for the same parts. Gates could use OEM pulleys for a time and then other brands later, it’s still the same kit for the same motor for their parts catalog. That moving target can be problematic. But buying one at a time and verifying the manufacturer will help get the right part each time if you’re unsure what a given company supplies.

This is a brilliant synopsis of blocks and rings. I owe y'all a dinner or 5.

I’ve used a number of GMB kits before and have a few GMB timing boxes now. in general I’d avoid them for long term vehicles, valuable cars, interference engines, etc. I’ll install them on rusted out beaters that have maybe two years left before the frame rots through. Don’t get me wrong, they’re decent enough and don’t have high failure rates so you’d probably get by fine. but nearly every aftermarket kit has higher failure rates than Subaru OEM. GMB doesn’t have a magic supply of OEM cheap parts no one else can find. Those two piece tensioners are like $150, id wonder if that’s s knock off or rebuild and looks like OEM. When it comes to parts that will strand you, or interference engines, I prefer the highest quality you can get if they don’t cost much more anyway. If someone begged me to install a GMB kit for them and they want to save a few bucks on your car i would but first I recommend to save a few dollars: 1. Subaru belt and pulleys only (no tensioner) 2. Subaru belt and the lower cogged idler (by far it is the one that fails) and I’ll inspect the the others. The other ones very rarely fail. If you can DIY they can be inspected in 2 years or 40,000 miles in less than an hour, they’re super easy. Those two piece tensioners don’t fail, I’ve never seen it but I’m sure it happens sometimes. They were routinely reused and I’d even convert new Subaru’s to the old style before they got old. If yours is in good shape, the seal isn’t wet - It happens so rarely and you already have a water pump, just buy the timing belt and pulleys from Subaru. I’d almost rather keep the OEM original tensioner and not install a new aftermarket unless it’s OEM new (not rebuilt) 3. If they didn’t like those options I’d still install the GMB kit without much concern but to me there’s just no compelling reason to do so and depending on the car/person I’d tell them I’m not touching it if there’s issues ! Haha That said - I only work for free and don’t charge labor, so it’s easier for people to accept the higher cost parts. If you’re paying labor then the higher Costs changes the decision making process.

i wouldn’t mention this normally but since you’re doing a swap and have a lot of questions, clarity may help. I think you mean final drive ratio, not gear ratio (meaning the different gearing of 1st, 2nd, 3rd...). Final drive ratio is the front and rear differential ratios and is independent of the transmission gear ratios. You’ll want the front and rear diff ratios to match. And you mean differential, not axle. The final drive ratio is dictated by the front and rear differentials not the axles...but I understand in truck world an entire rear assembly is an “axle”. The final drive ratio should be the easy part, subaru didn’t use many different ones in the 80s. All 88 EA82/ER27 are 3.7 or 3.9 and interchange with each other. EA82 nonturbo manual should be 3.9. A quick USMB search shows EA81 might be 3.9. If that’s the case you don’t need to do anything for final drive ratios, the front and rear diffs match. But like mentioned - you’re going backwards from most in terms of installing that 4 speed.

the kit pictured is a 1996 and earlier US market Subaru timing kit, is that what you're looking for? buy it, i'ts got everything you need except the thermostat. you can also buy from subaru if parts sourcing is a problem.

yes, he's talking about tips and rosebuds and propane from a bottle can't cut.

that will work. probably just a ratio difference.

Probably OEM or KYB struts and new, or stiffer, rear springs.

Sure thing I’ve seen them. Didn’t think they’d get hot enough to help much. Good to know.

I think it was already said but scour the local listings and see where your price falls. The lower down the list you are the quicker it’ll sell. Now is a good time to sell and it’s getting better. Hang tight.

yep, just get good at bringing it up fast and moving on quick. between mine and selling for other people, I've sold a couple dozen subaru's over the years. at least locally craigslist seems to be loosing traction/market share and has more scammers, etc. i might be done with it in the near future. one of the major online venues like cars.com you can list and only pay if you sell the car through them. that's worth tossing it up if you've got a vehicle that's being looked at there. there ends up being a lot of window shoppers but they're not annoying at least. they just ask a question and disappear because they emailed 20 other people or end up wanting a dealer.