idosubaru

What he said with the 2016+. If rust is any issue, favor newer cars, that's usually the long term issue and i see swiss cheese every time I drive to Canton, Ohio which has issues Cincy doesn't. 1. H6 engines with the 5EAT transmission (which I think is all 2005-2014 6 cylinder Outbacks) 2. 2016+ 3. 2009 4 cylinders with properly addressed headgaskets (resurfaced heads, new Subaru gaskets) and timing belt (subaru belt, pulleys, tensioner, water pump).

90%+ of the time this is a battery or battery connection issue. do not go replacing starters or alternators or unecessary things until the battery system has been properly gone through. A. what was the battery voltage? 12.XX....what is it if it was tested? B. any recent work done to the vehicle? C. how old is the battery? first steps - this looks long but it only takes a few minutes. go grab one of these for $3: https://www.harborfreight.com/battery-terminal-cleaner-94450.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+All+Products+-+Lower+Sales+Items|New+Products+-+(1)+Price+<%2410|94450&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&mkwid=sZrVWypDk|pcrid|318476002950|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|slid||product|94450|&pgrid=63088204786&ptaid=pla-298214602708&pcid=1654049980&intent=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxZfb_ZS84wIVBZ-fCh1QowLOEAQYAyABEgLpEPD_BwE 1. clean the battery posts - the parts sticking up off the battery - make them shiny 2. clean the battery cable terminals - the clamps that clamp the post. The insides need to be shiny metal 3. make sure the battery terminals are tight on the posts, you shouldn't be able to twist them by hand. 4. test the battery again or measure voltage and post what your sitting voltage is. "test" is fairly generic and 5. once the connections are all clean get a good set of jumper cables or jump pack - does the car start or turn over then?

if it has tires for the job!

You should tell us what year/vehicle and what engine went into it. If you straight swapped an 00-04 EJ25 then you probably need to swap the drivers side cam and crank sprockets from the original engine to the new one.

If the threads are good reuse them. Test them by spinning a nut on them to ensure smooth thread engagement. If reused so many times that it’s an issue, that raises a lot of questions about the integrity of the engine, history or maintenance.

Helicoil and 7/16 are both easy. Tap it and done.

No, your intake manifold is a different bolt pattern and won’t bolt up.

No one does it for a reason. Do an engine swap or get a different car. Slapping a turbo on high compression engines is rife with issues. Swap in an EJ25 block and bolt your 2.2 heads to it. That’s the ticket. Super easy, no custom work, no wiring, no fueling, no extra work at all. Bolt in and go. They can take low boost if done right but it’s too much work for too little gain and you’ll want more anyway or blow the engine(s). Also - if you’ve got the money and skills to fabricate custom exhaust, intake, oil and cooling, fuel control...you have more than enough resources to do an engine swap with better results. Buy a cheap 01-04 EZ30 with rust , wrecked, or blown trans and you’ve got 215 hp. Turbo swaps can be done for more $ and work.

can you see the bearings? if you can Inject some grease via a needle fitting down into the bearings and spin/work them back and forth to get the grease down into it. i recall doing this on other struts in the past, but feel like some i've seen recently, the bearings weren't accessible externally to do this? look for some used strut mounts, pull a part, ask here, etc, junk cars on craigslist/facebook marketplace. don't buy a cheap aftermarket one - they fail all the time and bulge like crazy, i can't believe those companies can even survive producing stuff that bad.

i'd install another distributor and keep that one as a back up. ; or repair the threads with a heli-coil type solution.

drain the oil and check for debris/swirls. odds are insanely high the axle was the original issue.

Huck - this is what I do. Check engine light doesn't matter so I just install a non-EGR engine and run it. Plug and play, runs like a top. You can also install the EGR intake manifold - and just run a hose from the EGR port on the drivers side to the IAC hose on the passengers side (install a T-fitting there) and you won't get a check engine light and no need to drill the block.

What he said - start light and increase pressure.

A Subaru tech said that? I dont have a problem being wrong - that’s how we learn. but misguiding/guessing under the ruse of “Subaru tech” or professional...come on, that’s not helpful.

are there any check engine lights? does the AT light flash 16 times at first start up? change the transmission fluid. engine performance is often mis-interpreted as poor transmission performance. plugs and air filter would be worth checking or replacing. i doubt this is the case but earlier H6's had weak throttle position sensors. not sure 2003's really have that issue but maybe they do or maybe yours somehow has an 01-02 TPS on it due to prior engine work in the life of the vehicle.