idosubaru

Yes sucking air means more air and lower fuel/air ratio = lean.

Intake hose. Air cleaner hose. Valve. Solenoid. Intake solenoid. The EJ18 has some wildly confusing intake contraptions. The blow out on the intake hose you posted looks too big for a small solenoid hose - it’s more like egr Recirc size. But the broken solenoid is definitely a solenoid. Subaru online parts diagrams are fairly decent. I’d look those up for part names and number. Then search google or eBay or junk yards using those names and numbers. This is just an example and not necessarily what you need but first thing I pulled up for example of a 1993 intake hose diagram this may include the valve or solenoid you need: https://parts.wheelingsubaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=49227167&ukey_assembly=6021290 https://parts.wheelingsubaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=49287214&ukey_assembly=6021122

Yea it should be there.

Turn very sharply on sweeping turns at 40+ mph both to the left and right. If noise goes away under that side loading it’s the bearing. Not just during the sweeping turn. But even do a quick 1 second extra few degree turn while doing the sweeping turn to the right or left while turning. Noise will disappear during that momentary sharp turn at speed. This is the most consistent test I’ve seen on ones that are relatively loud. havw someone else drive and sit in the rear seat or hatch area and front passenger seat it should be obvious which corner it is An infrared temp gun on each rotor will tell you if one is much hotter than the other side. Take lots of readings at same point on rotor as the heat dissipation and readings aren’t consistent. But you’ll see a pattern and 30-100 degree difference. This doesn’t always work either but catches some that pass the “play” and typical bearing tests Moog bearing has a very good chance of failing again. I avoid aftermarket bearings and I’ve still seen numerous failures. Moog, Timken…even the “good” ones you just never know. I’ve never seen an OEM Subaru bearing repeat failure. And I use them far more often and on any car that’s likely to see a lot more years/miles If you use after market bearings they have a lower failure rate if properly torqued. The Subaru bearings can be zipped on and abused with an air gun and not torqued and walked in back forth to a rusty hub and never fail. I don’t use a torque wrench on Subaru bearings. Not one failure. Aftermarket will fail if they’re treated roughly, not installed straight and torqued properly. Which speaks to their quality and all the more reason to avoid. But they are cheap so if you use aftermarket again clean everything up, install it straight and clean and torque it properly.

Could it be torn rear diff or trans mount bushings?

If it’s not an installation error, it’s the sprockets. Check the timing marks? Fuel lines didn’t get mixed up? Swap the crank and drivers side timing sprockets.

Well shoot, I'm unsure about the SVX The SVX has a rear LSD, I wonder if those axles are different. My guess is you swap the rear diff guts. Which isn't hard nor does it take long...but I've never done it with an SVX so I'm unsure on what can be done or best approach. Here is what you need to end up with from swapping the guts between the two differentials: 1. The ring and pinion from the forester (for the proper 4.44 gear ratio to match the transmission) 2. the rear diff chunk from the LSD (because it'll properly receive your axles). I'm just not sure which housing to use, either: A. install the Forester ring and pinion into the SVX housing. The pinion bolts to the housing and the ring bolts to the (SVX) diff chunk. In this case you'd want new pinion seals and side seals. or B. install the SVX guts into the forester housing with it's original Forester ring and pinion. If you do this - you keep all the side caps, shims, everything identical in the SVX and swap them to the forester. In this case you'd want new side seals. B would be easier because you don't have to mess with the pinion which is kind of beastly and then you probably need to replace the pinion seal and maybe that messes with preload on the R&P? It might be better to keep the R&P within it's own housing....just a wild guess but that's also what I've always done. The non-LSD housings (the forester) have little bumps inside you grind down so the larger SVX LSD chunk can clear the housing. It's not as hard as it sounds. Try to install the LSD chunk and you'll see it hits the bumps inside. Knock that down with a grinder until the LSD fits. It's not much and doesn't take long. Another option might be some kind of axle swap or frankenstein axle, but I'm unsure if that's even possible. I've done these types of rear diff gut swaps to change gear ratios or swap LSD chunks, but I've never done it with an SVX or due to axle problems, so that's why I'm unsure.

Doesn’t look Subaru

hold onto the bad trans until you know the donor trans pan isn’t dented and it doesn’t have toque bind. And it’s not missing the torque converter, stubby shafts, or shift switch on the passengers side. Usualky they just come with all that stuff but I’ve seen all of those missing or damaged before too. but in general, Nope. They’re basically the same trans with slightly different guts inside and all that stuff usually stays with the trans Torque bind isn’t uncommon so if you wanted you could save the rear extension housing (it’s like 6 or 8 easy bolts and it pops right off). It has the 4WD clutches and solenoid. Or just hold onto the trans At least until you drive it and verify the donor trans doesn’t have torque bind. Then throw it away or keep the rear housing if you have room. make sure he knows how to properly seat the torque converter, if you don’t the oil pump will crack inside the trans. The torque converter and flex plate should not touch when the trans is bolted up to the engine and installed. The flex plate bolts will draw them together.

Should be.

-50F haha, wow. The first question is - There’s lots of Subarus in Alaska I doubt they’re all replacing boots annually. Maybe they’re coastal and more moderated temps? I’d upgrade to OEM 00-04 OBW axles and new Subaru boots. No need to reinvent the wheel if those work. You can feel a difference between the 00-04 outer boots and 90s boots as soon as you remove them from the box. The material is way different and very robust. If yours is lifted,colder, both, or otherwise stressing the boots more than other Alaskans, I’ve seen a company years ago that made silicone boots from dimensions you send them. Don’t recall the name. The linked heavy duty axle is not a good axle. Might get lucky but They aren’t the first company that tried to sell a Subaru axle marketed like this and they won’t be the last.

Yeah it’s been awhile but 99 Outback/Legacy SUS is odd. The 95-99 Outback legacy engines all swap. so it’s hard to imagine the trans doesn’t swap. But - I think those 99s have the Phase II trans. If the trans has a spin on filter then it’s phase II. 95-98 didn’t have that. also 95-99 all EJ25s swap except the 99 Forester and Impreza RS. And all 95-98 EJ22s swap electotncialky but the 99 EJ22 doesn’t for any of them even though the 99 EJ25 does swap with esrkier models for legacy/Outback. Just the 2.2 doesn’t in 99. thoroughly confusing year.

Subaru OEM boots? They’re way better than standard aftermarket. They don’t break in a year. I reboot my Subarus when I get them and never have to do it again even after 100,000 miles. That never happens with aftermarket. if you’re using 90s axles upgrade to 00-04 Outback style axles. the boot material is better, particularly the outer boot, it’s “stiffer” and the outer boot has more convolutions. They have the tone ring on them, just tap it off with a hammer it just sits on the ridge. They can even be left on but I remove them. They’re a direct swap into 90s EJ vehicles. I’ve seen silicon boots for sale but I forget where. Google should find some.

Piston rings. Not ideal to have another shop do it for a litany of reasons. Unless they’re very experienced in Subarus subaru doesn’t even fix it, they just replace the entire short block $2000 new block and $3,000 for new headgasket and reassembly. Costly but at least you get a good warranty out of the new block instead of just 12,000 miles and 1 year from a typical shop repair the good news is they come with a 36 month unlimited mile warranty. Used to be 36,000 miles now I think it’s just 3 years no mileage limit. That’s just the block, everything else, which practically speaking is just the headgaskets, would have the standard 1 year 12,000 mile warranty Best fit solution: schedule a reasonable check and top off schedule you do routinely, don’t keep using the dash light. Top it off every Sunday or night you’re home or gas fill up, I see people checking oil at gas stations (I travel a lot), you’re already waiting for the pump anyway. When you change the oil, overfill it a 1/2 quart. The top fill line is extremely forgiving - if it wasn’t then every mountain, curve, steep boat ramp, hard braking causing the oil to rise on one side or slosh around would damage the engine. Pro tip: none of those damage the engine. Use thicker 40weight oil. 10w40. Shoot as a test I’d run 20w-50 and see what happens. But that freaks out the inexperienced oil nazis. Either way - don’t use the recommended 0W-20 garbage

It looks like a bolt and nut to keep with a chain for lifting engines, etc. 14mm old gen bolts: suspension: ball joint, cross member. Most are 12 but some engine accessory bracket hold down bolts - like A/C bracket, P/S, Alt are 14mm. bellhousing and head bolts but this isn't one of them.