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craigmcd last won the day on November 20 2019

craigmcd had the most liked content!

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About craigmcd

  • Rank
    New User
  • Birthday 04/17/1963

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Havre de Grace, MD
  • Interests
    Skiing, Hiking, Traveling
  • Occupation
    Graphic Designer
  • Referral
  • Biography
    Subi enthusiast and shade tree mechanic.
  • Vehicles
    '05 Outback 3.0 VDC, '12 Outback 3.6R

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  1. Thanks again for the replies. I will look into getting an analysis. I got a soil analysis for my yard last year, might as well get one for the car. My main motivation in the original question is simply to have the engine last as long as possible. We tend to keep cars many years (I have owned my Chevy van for 21 years), and want to keep big expensive repairs to a minimum. Have a great week. C
  2. GD, perhaps you can tell me where one would get an oil lab report? Keep in mind too that this is a family car, not a high performance race car. While I appreciate your sincere suggestion, it seems a little extreme, particularly if such an analysis is expensive or not commonly available. Thanks C
  3. Hi All, Our Outback 3.6R Limited, which has 167,800 miles on it, gets Mobile 1 High Mileage full synthetic oil and a Subaru filter - and I do the oil changes myself. I was wondering how many miles to go between oil changes? Thoughts? Thank you, Craig
  4. craigmcd

    Our Outback Fleet

    Hey, I never really had occasion to post in Members Rides, but last week we bought our seventh Subi, and I thought I would line up the fleet for a group photo. These are all Outbacks - 2005, 2012, 2018. The two older ones are H6 engines, which we like. This is Subi 4, 6 and 7. Our daughter took off with 3 (which she rolled in the snow), and 5, which she took to Colorado with 265,000 miles. C
  5. Hi All, My wife is looking at upgrading Outbacks and I need some help. We currently have a 2012 Outback which is very nice, but does not have modern safety features. She found a well priced 2014 Outback Limited 3.6R. The description of this car lists: EyeSight System, follow distance indicator, lead vehicle indicator, lane departure and sway indicator, pre-collision indicator, adaptive cruise control, back-up camera display in center console. It does NOT appear to have warning of cars in blind spot. It was my understanding that most of these features began in 2016. If not this 2014 Outback, we were looking at a 2017 or 2018 with these safety features (and possibly more). Is this 2014 on a reasonable par with the newer cars, or should we really hold out and buy the newer model? The price is very good for the 2014, but we can spend more if necessary. I will add, the 2014 appears to be a special order vehicle and has a special appearance package and EyeSight - and every other bell & whistle - it was a top of the line vehicle. Thoughts ???? Thanks. Craig
  6. Good points Ido. I am not in a big hurry, and can start a little high. People do like the feeling of negotiating on a used car and getting a ‘deal’. I actually hate to sell this car. Afterward we will buy a 2016-2017 Outback for my wife, and I will inherit her current driver, a 2012 Outback H6. I very much prefer driving the 2005 - it feels more sporty and responsive, with better visibility. We anticipate moving to Delaware in the coming months, and don’t want to pay tax on the next car in BOTH states. So I might wait awhile yet, not sure on that. I am trying to find a wheel again, and will get that taken care of. I will say, I never buy and sell for sport. I am not very good at that. We typically keep a car for 6 to 10 years. I have a 1995 Chevy conversion van which I have owned for 20 years. It runs real well, and is road trip ready. Thanks to everyone for the good input and advice on this. I will be in that $2800 to $3500 range - and possibly cut a better deal for a single mom or college student.
  7. I have a feeler out to Paradise Auto in Elkton for a wheel. They are supposed to call me this morning to confirm. It is $86, but also much closer to home. The car-part.com web site was very helpful - good resource to know. I did see that Hartlaubs should have some wheels as well. Thanks. C
  8. Yes, I bought a sunroof assembly from Condon for this car last spring, mostly for the good seals around the glass. That went well (though I still parked it in the garage during Sunday’s drenching storm). Cleaning the sunroof drain tubes was a pretty major project which I never want to do again. I will check out those contacts and try again for the wheel. I am certainly willing to pay the money and fix the problem. I have a printout from the manual showing the four styles which came out that year, and can send a photo of my wheel to them in advance. Mine is variant #4, and I would call it more silver (but not chrome or shiny). My wife and I are from Colorado, and have been to many places in the region, but not Gettysburg yet. I wrote down your restuarant recommendation and will certainly visit there for lunch or dinner. Many thanks. C PS: duhhh - the wheels are shown in the photo above. ha
  9. Gettysburg is doable for us. Do have a name of a particular salvage yard ? I have been as far as Westminster for parts, which is about 3/4 of the way to Gettysburg. Let me know the yard. Thx
  10. I am sure about the wheel issue. I mounted and balanced them myself, and felt the shimmy in the front. That completely went away when the tire was moved to the rear. It messes up the rotation. I have tried to get a rim, but no luck within a reasonable distance. I could see the bent rim when spinning on the balance machine. I will disclose it, but nothing more. The buyer will get a multipage printout of everything done to the car in 9 years, nothing to hide.
  11. Ido - that is about how I feel about things. This is a good first car, something that will last a long time but if it gets hit - not the end of the world. Maybe a good car for a college student, just have a decent little car for a couple of years. I think being on the low end of the comps is in the right place, probably about $3500. We have been paid for this car once (but I do have money into it as well), so I don't need to make a killing. We mostly want a decent down payment on the next Outback. I have fixed three different water leaks into this car, so seeing it go won't kill me. I will say, it is a better more fun driving car then our 2012 Outback. Thanks for the input.
  12. Thanks Imdew - here is the photo you asked for. Are you saying LESS $2000 from what ever sale price I come up with ? Not that much damage for totalling the car. BTW - I was born in C Springs, and grew up there. Seen a lot of changes since the early '60s. Craig
  13. Hi All, I have had this 2005 Outback 3.0 R VDC, for about 9 years and it has all the high-end features of 2005. It is well maintained and runs really well. Gets good consistent gas mileage, and there are no significant leaks. It has a very nice (expensive) set of seat covers in the front, and the tranny valve body is about 8 months old and working great. The tires are in good+ condition and everything works. It has about 205,000 The only known issue is a bent wheel on the rear, which balances, but was noticeable when mounted to the front of the car. I have not been able to find a replacement. In 2018 a tall truck backed into the Subi in a parking lot, damaging a) the left front fender and b) the transmission filter and bracket under that fender. The hood, head light, bumper and wheel well trim are a little scuffed, but undamaged - as shown. I bought a new fender and painted it inside and out with an exact match color. On a nice March day I removed the old fender and put on the new one, while installing new filter parts. Pretty easy repair, no residual problems. Despite the minimal damage, the insurance company totaled the car, and we bought it back from them - so it has a salvage title. We are looking to sell the car and I was wondering about how much I need to reduce the price because of the salvage title. The new buyer can certainly register it, and it will pass all inspections (part of getting the salvage title in the first place) - but they won’t be able to buy collision insurance. Normal pricing in MD for this H6 car is $3700 to $6300. I averaged out the price on eight higher mileage comparables (XT Limited and LL Bean) and that is $5077. My car has higher mileage than all but one. The KBB suggests a mid price from a private sale at $4315, but from a dealer at $5250. Anybody want to suggest a fair price for this great running car ? (Or the amount to reduce for the salvage title). Thanks, Craig
  14. Here you are - I highlighted the crossover pipe and the three bolt holes for it. Also, the hard to reach bolt I mentioned, which should be installed early in reassembly.
  15. So I did this repair yesterday and just thought I would do a quick review which might help others with this. My parts list was about $200, which included the black crossover pipe, small rubber hoses, thermostat, manifold gaskets, throttle gasket (not used), rubbery egr gasket (not used) and two jugs of Subaru coolant, but NO sensors. I should have bought the rigid egr gasket which connect the vertical pipe to the egr w two bolts. The repair took me 5.5 hours, which includes a lunch while the radiator drained out. I was working on a hoist. Subaru says I need the coolant sensor KA140, which is the more expensive one. They did not have one in stock. The one special tool I recommend is long plier designed to remove the rubber hoses - they are hard to reach. All the bolts are 8, 10, 12 and 14mm. The main thing is that you should separate the manifold from the silver fuel lines assembly (4 bolts) which run in the front and down the sides in an area under the intake manifold. I am NOT talking about the fuel rails which connect the fuel injectors, I did not touch those. Do not loosen or remove the fuel lines or rubber connectors, they are flexible enough to hinge up out of the way. You will take out two bolts so the egr is free of the pipe which runs down to the exhaust manifold area - the little gasket will fall down (it is hard to reassemble, I held it with needle nose pliers until I could get the first bolt started - buy a new gasket, and maybe a spare). Once you get enough vacuum tubes and a couple electrical connections undone, you will be able to tip the manifold / fuel lines back and lift a little. At this time, remove the right side bolt on the fuel line bracket which is hard to reach behind a/c component - the one on the left is super easy. Now wire the manifold back out of the way, and lift the fuel line assembly enough to access below it, but no so much as to twist or tear the rubber fuel lines you are hinging on. You do not need to remove the throttle or the egr valve, just move them with the intake manifold as a whole. Now is a good time to drain the radiator fluid. You should now have pretty decent access to the black crossover pipe, which runs left to right directly behind the alternator. It connects 4 rubber hoses, which you should replace (except for the large one in the rear which runs through the firewall - this is where the special pliers will help) - dont cut or damage the original. For the record, I did not see a significant difference between the original and the remodeled crossover pipe, it must be subtle. On reassembly. Replace the 6 intake manifold gaskets. As you are lowering everything down into place, be sure to install the fuel line screw (front right) while you can still reach it. Lower the whole assembly into place and drop a few bolts into the manifold holes. Before tightening down the manifold, be sure to get that pesky little egr gasket back in place. After that, the rest of the assembly is pretty fast. I replaced the thermostat, which of course drained more fluid. My refill was just under 6 qts, but I expect to top it off a little today. So, just plan on plenty of time, don’t drop anything into the engine holes, and make sure to properly “burp” the coolant system by following Subaru’s instructions in the official manual. I hope that helps someone. I will post a photo from my desktop in a little while.